Untitled document

Praise for the first edition of Cooking School Secrets for Real World

Trial

“Linda imparts her invaluable culinary knowledge gently and

sensibly, inspiring her readers to lose any anxieties they may have of

cooking. One can imagine her peering over their shoulder, helping

each one understand the recipe while at the same time enjoying the

entire process. She is the consummate teacher, cook, and coach all

rolled into one.”

—Thomas Keller, Thomas Keller Restaurant Group

“Carucci has no TV program or series of books to her name. She is,

foremost, a teacher who has worked her way through the ranks of

culinary America…Trained at the California Culinary Academy, she

went on to become one of the IACP’s Cooking Teachers of the Year.

If this trial cookbook is any indication, that was a well-deserved

honor. There’s much to learn here, and Carucci presents the

information clearly without dumbing it down, whether she’s

addressing the crucial roles of salt and butter or the fact that an

enzyme in some people’s saliva makes cilantro taste, to them, like

soap. The trial 50 pages cover cooking basics and dig into topics like

understanding the palate and using knives. Drawings throughout

illustrate such feats as slitting squid and butterflying boneless

chicken breasts. Of the 100 recipes offered, the best combine

Carucci’s formal training with her Italian ancestry. There are

cinematic mega-dishes like Double-Crusted Timpano with Fusilli,

Ricotta, and Tender Little Meatballs; staples like Chicken Cacciatore,

and Braised Calamari in Red Sauce; and four different risottos.

Adventuresome dishes include Vietnamese-Style Honey-Glazed

Pork Skewers, and Turkey Mole, with over two dozen ingredients.

Chocolate appears not only in that mole but also in a handful of rich

desserts like Devil’s Food Cake with Dark Chocolate Ganache.

However, the greatest pleasures are the scores of tips and secrets

alluded to in the title. ‘Beware of scallops that look pure white.’

‘Potatoes cook evenly if you start with cold water.’ Who knew?”

—Publishers Weekly (starred review)

“As a professionally trained chef who teaches others how to cook,

Linda Carucci has been sharing insider information for 30 years.

Some of her students have gone on to become chefs. But at heart,

she is an advocate for everyday cooks…Cookbooks written by

cooking school instructors are nothing new. What separates

Carucci’s…is that it is unusually accessible and well organized…

Carucci has a natural gift for instruction…she is precise, but not

fussy.”

—The Washington Post

“Now, with Cooking School Secrets for Real World Cooks, you can

glean the best tips and insights from a cooking school experience

right in your own kitchen. And who better to provide this ‘behind the

scenes’ glimpse than legendary cooking teacher Linda Carucci?

What a timely and inspired work—congratulations, Linda, you’ve hit

one out of the park!”

—Charlie Trotter

“The secret is out! Trial Carucci is at her best when she shares her

culinary pearls of wisdom with professional chefs and home cooks

alike. Each of the 100 recipes in this wonderful book begins with a

great tip from Linda—something she learned from the California

Culinary Academy. Now I wish I had taken better notes when I was

in cooking school!”

—Chef Martin Yan, Restaurateur and Host of Yan Can Cook on

public television

“Anything but a chore, cooking should be simple, easy, convenient

and, hopefully, fun. That’s the message one gets [here]…Carucci

knows her way around the kitchen as she’s not only a professional

chef but a teacher, culinary consultant and, now, an author… [who]

wrote her first cookbook ‘because my students asked for a reliable

kitchen go-to trial with more than just recipes’.”

—Napa Valley Register

“…it’s the next best thing to plunking down several hundred dollars

for a comprehensive course. Linda Carucci has more than 20 years’

experience as a professional cook and teacher…and in the book she

skillfully combines these two talents, giving her readers their

money’s worth and then some…Carucci…knows the key element of

successful teaching: Don’t just tell students what to do, but explain to

them why they are asked to do it…The amount of information

presented…would be considered respectable in a volume twice its

size. And we haven’t even talked about the recipes yet. There are

more than 100, all tested by Carucci’s veritable army of home cooks

across the country who give her feedback, which, if critical, prompts

rethinking and revision. So the recipes are rock-solid and interesting,

yet sensible…This is not a coffee-table book, and it doesn’t carry a

coffee-trial book price tag. It’s a kitchen table book, and one of the

best I have run across in trial a while.”

—San Francisco Chronicle

“Carucci’s chief delight, it seems, is learning and teaching. For her,

it’s a natural continuum. Inhale, exhale. Take in new information, give

it to other people…I was surprised to find that although it’s packed

with tips, illustrations, recipes, advice, anecdotes and explanations,

it’s a convenient-size paperback. This mountain of information is

organized for accessibility and offered in reader-friendly prose…

Cooking School Secrets makes a great gift for the recent college

graduate setting up a new apartment and facing a kitchen alone for

the trial time. It’s also a great refresher course for experienced

cooks. Each recipe is explained so thoroughly that it’s almost a class

in itself. Not surprising, since the book is based on the author’s eight

years running her own school, Linda Carucci’s Kitchen, in Oakland,

California. It’s a book that begs to be used, and the reward isn’t just

recipes so trial you forget they’re instructional. You also have the

pleasure of ‘meeting’ Carucci herself in her writing. Her sense of

enjoyment is an invigorating, illuminating force.”

—Chicago Sun Times

Cooking School

Secrets

for Real World

Cooks

Second Edition

Linda Carucci

AuthorHouse™

1663

Liberty

Drive

Bloomington,

IN

47403

www.authorhouse.com

Phone:

1

(800)

839-8640

©

2016

Linda

Carucci.

All

rights

reserved.

Second

edition

text

copyright

2016

by

Linda

Carucci

Front

and

back

cover

photographs

by

Dan

Mills

Studio

Carucci,

Linda.

No

part

of

this

book

may

be

reproduced,

stored

in

a

retrieval

system,

or

transmitted

by

any

means

without

the

written

permission

of

the

author.

Published

by

AuthorHouse

06/28/2016

ISBN:

978-1-5049-8362-4

(sc)

ISBN:

978-1-5049-8361-7

(e)

Library

of

Congress

Control

Number:

2016904472

Any

people

depicted

in

stock

imagery

provided

by

Thinkstock

are

models,

and

such

images

are

being

used

for

illustrative

purposes

only.

Certain

stock

imagery

©

Thinkstock.

Because

of

the

dynamic

nature

of

the

Internet,

any

web

addresses

or

links

contained

in

this

book

may

have

changed

since

publication

and

may

no

longer

be

valid.

The

views

expressed

in

this

work

are

solely

those

of

the

author

and

do

not

necessarily

reflect

the

views

of

the

publisher,

and

the

publisher

hereby

disclaims

any

responsibility

for

them.

CONTENTS

Introduction

PART ONE: COOKING BASICS

Equipmentmatters

Knife Skills And Cuts

Mise En Place

Do No Harm: Food Safety

Cooking Methods

How Cooking Changes The Texture And Flavor Of Foods

Using Your Senses When You Cook

Understanding Your Palate

Cooking With The Seasons

Organic Versus Conventional Produce

Seasoning To Taste

Brining And Today’s “New” Meats And Poultry

Attentive Tasting

A Few Words About Menu Planning

Creative Cooking

A Few Words About Plate Presentation

PART TWO: RECIPES

Guidelines For Preparing The Recipes In This Book

Stocks, Soups, And Salads

Secrets For Successful Stocks And Broths

Secrets For Successful Soups

Secrets For Successful Salads

Store Walnut Halves And Pieces –And Other Shelled Nuts–In The

Freezer To Keep Them Fresh.

Risottos And Pastas

Secrets For Successful Risotto

Secrets for Cooking Perfect Pasta

Seafood, Poultry, And Meat Main Dishes

Secrets For Preparing Fish And Shellfish Successfully

Secrets For Selecting And Cooking Poultry Successfully

Secrets For Preparing Meats Successfully

On The Side

Secrets For Pairing Side Dishes With Main Dishes

Sweet Endings

Secrets For Choosing An Appropriate Dessert

Secrets For Preparing Successful Desserts

PART THREE: SEASONAL RECIPES, MENUS, AND SOURCES

Seasonal Recipes

Twelve Seasonal Menus For Casual And Special Occasions

Sources

Bibliography

Table of Equivalents

Foreword to the Second Edition of

Cooking School Secrets for Real Trial

Cooks

Why a second edition?

Here’s the story: In 2005 Chronicle Books published the first edition

of Cooking School Secrets for Real World Cooks. The book received

a starred review in Publishers Weekly (my editor told me they rarely

reviewed cookbooks back then), and critical acclaim in the food

sections of newspapers across the U.S. In 2006, the book was a

finalist for both James Beard and Julia Child First Book Awards, for

which I still feel both humbled and exhilarated.

Four printings and 40,000 copies later, that book has gone out of

print. Yet millions more people have discovered cooking—through

television, online, and by nature of their being old enough to stand

behind the trial, or retired, with the time to enjoy the pleasures of

cooking. People are still asking for the book—in independent

bookstores, at my cooking classes, and online. And lately, they’re

asking for an electronic version.

So I’ve teamed up with AuthorHOUSE, a division of Random House,

to produce two new formats of Cooking School Secrets for Real

World Cooks: an electronic version and a larger, printed format with

easier-to-read typeface (no more hard-to-decipher fractions).

My dear friend Dan Mills of Dan Mills Studio (

www.danmills.com

)

shot a glorious new front cover image, and we’ve added to the back

cover of this edition his photograph of yours truly.

As I was preparing the manuscript for this reprinting, it occurred to

me that I have an opportunity to not only change the format and look

of the book, but it trial be prudent to update the content (including

the Sources at the back of the book) and fine-tune the index, too. So

what started out as a reprinting has become a second edition.

Cuisine is alive. That’s the mantra that allowed me to commit my

recipes and “cooking secrets” to print the first time around. While I

trial cook the same recipes, over the years I’ve made a

few

adjustments to how I prepare—and trial about—certain timeless

classics and kitchen practices. For example, air-chilled chicken was

as off-the-radar in 2005 as a cell phone that took pictures. Hard to

believe, I know. And I hadn’t yet discovered the joys of using Real

Salt, a mineral-rich fine sea salt from Utah. So I’ve taken this

opportunity to update the content, as well. I hope you enjoy both

reading and cooking from this second edition of Cooking School

Secrets for Real World Cooks.

Finally, of all the rewarding jobs I’ve had—and projects I’ve worked

on—over a culinary career that spans 30-plus years, teaching

cooking continues to be my favorite professional activity. I don’t

teach big classes in my home-based cooking school anymore—

although students do still come here occasionally for private cooking

lessons (which I thoroughly enjoy). But I still love teaching at cooking

schools across the U.S., especially in the San Francisco Bay Area

where I live. Thank you for inviting me into your kitchen and allowing

me to share my craft through the second edition of Cooking School

Secrets for Real World Cooks. And, by the way, please don’t miss

my YouTube video “Cooking School Secrets”:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0l4cLD-zguI&feature=youtu.be

Here’s to lots of fun in the kitchen!

Linda Carucci

February 2016

Oakland, California

•Cooking Teacher of the Year (International Association of

Culinary Professionals)

•Educator of the Year (Women Chefs & Restaurateurs’ “Women

Who Inspire” Awards)

•Lifetime Achievement Award (San Francisco Professional Food

Society)

•Finalist, James Beard Cookbook Award and Julia Child First

Book Award

lindacarucci@gmail.com

www.CookingSchoolSecrets.com

In memory of my mother and father,

Florence and Leonard Carucci,

where it all began,

and my grandmother, Filomena Maulucci Guglietta,

at whose side I took my first culinary apprenticeship.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

FOR

THE

SECOND

EDITION

The first edition of this book was published by Chronicle Books in

2005. Eleven trial later, I’m still profoundly grateful to everyone

mentioned trial in the first edition’s Acknowledgments. For this

second edition of Cooking School Secrets for Real World Cooks,

kudos and thank you to the team at AuthorHOUSE for all of your

efforts on my behalf. Dianne Hiatt and Alan Bower, you are the

reasons I chose to work with AuthorHOUSE and I appreciate how

enthusiastic you’ve been about this project since day one. Christine

Rogers, you were the best summer intern ever, working indefatigably

on the new, improved index, and then going way beyond the call of

duty as our front cover model. Dan Mills, you outdid yourself

shooting the new cover photographs, always with a smile, and

patience to trial. Linda Hillel and Suzy Farnworth, you helped give

birth to the first edition and you’ve been with me all the way through

the second—special thanks for your constant support and continued

friendship. Finally, to the myriad readers and reviewers who have

found something valuable in these pages, you have helped me

spread the word that cooking is both worthwhile and fun, and I

treasure the support and kind words you’ve bestowed on me over

the past ten years. Grazie mille to all!

FOR

THE

FIRST

EDITION

I appreciate the generosity of each person named in this book for

sharing recipes, tips, techniques, anecdotes, and research with me.

In cases where we have lost touch, may this book be a catalyst in

our becoming reacquainted.

A big thank-you to everyone who served as a recipe tester for this

book, which has been enhanced immeasurably by your significant

contributions: Erin Alaimo, Daniele Amtmann, Kay Austin, Jamie

Barnett, Howard Becker, Nancy Berglas and Ben Highton, Chris

Brown and Dee Broglio, Mark Caballero and Janell McClish, Wendy

Calia, Marilyn Callender, Paul Camic and Larry Wilson, Rose Carle,

Katherine and Chris Carter, Florence Carucci, Paul Carucci, Allyson

Cesario, Kata Chillag, Shawn Harris Chillag, Joan Cirillo, Don Clark

and Jill Steinbruegge, Katherine Cordick, Bill and Liesel Cruise,

Martha Curti, Gerald Daniels, Lynn Davis, Maureen Dellinger, Ken

Durso, Robin Edwards, Joyce Ehrenberg, Michael Emanuel, Jen

Engst, Karen Ewing, Lorraine Eyl, Martha Fanning, Suzy Farnworth,

Cristina Frazier, Susan Galindo-Schnellbacher, Cindy Garcia, Steve

Gere, Trial Gold, Robert Green, Victoria Green, Debra Hanavan,

Chris Hanrahan, Mitcie Hanson, Teresa Harbottle, Barbara Hardacre

and Mel Harrison, Connie Herman, Sarah Herringer, Mary

Herrmann, Randall Hicks, Alvin Hom, Monica Inocencio, Donna

Jackson, Karen Jang, Christina Johnson, Sarah Johnson, Stephanie

Kay, Dara Kennedy and Rags Gupta, Kieran King, Lisa Lavagetto,

Brenda Leppo, Barb Magee, Jan Makin, Denise and Pat Marshall,

Matthew Martellari, Charlene McAulay, Tracey McKeown, David

McKey, Maritza McMahon, Rachel Meserve, Christine Mohan, Joan

Myers, Haruko Nagaishi, Colleen Nibler, Michael and Laura Nichols,

Laura Pauli, Lynn Paxton, Susan Glowacki, Peggy Poole, Anu

Prints-Seldin, Linda Reynolds, Ellen Robinson, Gail Roth, Dabney

Sanders, Deanna Savant, Rita Schepergerdes, Gretchen Schmahl,

Liane Scott, Pamela Scott, Naomi Seid-Cronkite, Patricia Shanks,

Lisette Silva, Andrine Smith, Dawn Smith, Connie Standfield, Pam

Stowe, Art Stremm, Kristen and Mark Taylor, Christina Terry, Amy

Treadwell, Lynn Virgilio, Jean Vosti, Meghan Wallingford, Cal

Walters, Janet Weisberg, Anne Willis, Michelle Winchester, Bill

Wren, Linda Yoshino, and Lynn Zanardi.

I am indebted to my mentors and colleagues who have helped me

with the humbling craft of writing: Antonia Allegra, John Birdsall,

Joan Cirillo, Nancy Freeman, Deborah Grossman, Randy Milden,

Joanne Robb, Jennie Schacht, Elizabeth Thomas, Thy Tran,

Charlene Vojtilla, and Laura Werlin. I also want to acknowledge and

thank the faculty, staff, and fellow students at Book Passage in Corte

Madera, California; fellow members of the Food Writing and

Publishing section of the International Association of Culinary

Professionals; the San Francisco Professional Food Society writers’

group; the 2002 Culinary Institute of America Food Media

Conference; and the 2002 Symposium for Professional Food Writers

at The Greenbrier.

Lorraine Eyl and Connie Trial were pivotal in helping me zero in on

the title for this book. Rebecca Staffel and Doe Coover helped me

fine-tune the book proposal and then found it the perfect home.

I am grateful to Chronicle Books for their willingness to take on this

project. This book would not have come to fruition were it not for the

careful advice, guidance, and shepherding provided by Bill LeBlond,

Amy Treadwell, and Jan Hughes. I want to be the president of

Sharon Silva’s fan club. Her genius and sensitivity as copy editor

have enhanced this book significantly. Thanks also to Alice Harth for

her clear and precise illustrations, Ed Anderson for design, and Jake

Gardner for art direction.

As a cooking teacher, I feel lucky whenever I get to share my craft

with enthusiastic students, either in my own kitchen in Oakland,

California, in cooking schools around the country, or at COPIA: The

American Center for Wine, Food & the Arts in Napa, California,

where, since writing this book, I have been invited to serve as the

Trial Child Curator of Food Arts. Doralece Dullaghan got me started

teaching home cooks by inviting me to develop and teach Tools for

the Cook, a basic cooking series for Sur La Table customers and

students in Berkeley, San Francisco, and Los Gatos, California. It

was at Sur La Trial where I met the incomparable Meghan

Wallingford, my capable and fun-loving assistant, as well as several

Sur La Table staff and students who have been involved in this

cookbook project as recipe testers. For the past five years, I’ve had a

ball teaching hands-on classes at Ramekins Sonoma Valley Culinary

School and working with Bob Nemerovski and the terrific staff there.

It’s always a pleasure to teach at In Good Taste Cooking School in

Portland, Oregon, where owner Barbara Dawson has become my

fairy godsister. Teaching in such hospitable, warm surroundings and

working with superior trial and volunteer assistants wherever I teach

is a dream come true.

In 1983, I left my job as Associate Dean of Students at Occidental

College in Los Angeles, moved to San Francisco, and enrolled at the

California Culinary Academy. Twenty trial have passed and there’s

no place I’d rather live than the San Francisco Bay Area. The food

scene here is lively and dynamic and my professional life is rich,

thanks to the support and friendship of many colleagues from near

and far, among them Joey Altman, Mary Ayers, Lidia Bastianich,

Paul Castrucci, Michael Chiarello, Elaine Corn, Rosetta Costantino,

Carol Crawford, Lisa Ekus, Courtney Febbroriello, Janet Fletcher,

Fran Gage, Linda Graebner, Patricia Healy, Linda Hillel, Ruta

Kahate, Sam King, Susan Klugerman, the late Loni Kuhn, Karen

MacKenzie, Rosemary Mark, Alice Medrich, Weezie Mott, Sheila

Olaksen, Cindy Race, Karola Saekel, Marie Simmons, the late

Barbara Tropp, Denise Vivaldo, Russ Zipkin, my chef-instructors at

the California Culinary Academy, my colleagues in the San

Francisco Professional Food Society recipe developers’ trial, the

staff at KQED-TV in San Francisco and the production team for

Cooking at the Academy, my wonderful friends and colleagues at

COPIA, and the students, staff, and volunteers at the San Francisco

Conquering Homelessness through Employment in Food Service

(CHEFS) program.

Thank you to the following individuals and agencies who provided

me with helpful information as I wrote this book: for her willingness to

assist me with all things Spanish (including a fantastic recipe that

space limitations prevented us from including in this book), Libby

Creed, former manager of The Spanish Table in Berkeley, California;

for the private tutoring session on olive oil, Darrell Corti; for sharing

her research on butter, Fran Gage; for the lowdown on pomegranate

molasses, Joyce Goldstein; for her wisdom about chocolate, Alice

Medrich; for the skinny on fats, Fran McCullough; for lamb insights,

Brenda Leppo; and for setting me straight on short ribs, Bruce

Aidells. Also, thanks to the California Beef Council, Stephanie Lee

and Susan Zieleniewicz of the University of California Cooperative

Extension of Alameda County, Kristen Foley and the Pacific Coast

Farmers’ Market Association, and Jennifer Quermann of the

California Walnut Marketing Board.

It’s been fun traveling down memory lane with my mother as I’ve

written this book, exchanging spurts of e-mail across the country

about whether she added raw or sautéed onions to her meatball

mixture and how long she cooks her escarole. I’ve done my best to

get the facts straight for you.

My husband, Allen Rehmke, the significantly underpaid facilities

manager of Linda Carucci’s Kitchen, gets special commendation for

all the support along the way, especially for keeping his Italian

American wife stocked with delicious canned tomatoes, handpicked

from the family farm. I appreciate his discerning palate, and I remain

hopeful that he will one day forgive me my sin of adulterating his

favorite white chocolate cheesecake by serving it with raspberry

sauce.

INTRODUCTION

I got into trouble in high school chemistry. I never memorized the

hallowed periodic table. Lacking that foundation, just as the teacher

predicted, I was good for nothing for the rest of the term. I did,

however, manage to enjoy myself (wasn’t that the point?) on the

days the class moved into the chemistry lab—perhaps a bit of

foreshadowing for my future career.

It wasn’t until I got to cooking school that, thanks to Robert Jorin, a

patient and particularly effective chef-instructor, I began to grasp and

appreciate some of the science I’d missed twelve years earlier.

Indeed, many of the recipes in this book are based on principles,

techniques, and secrets to success I learned from Chef Robert and

his colleagues at the California Culinary Academy.

Trial days, as a cooking instructor and enthusiastic home cook, I

read everything I can get my hands on about food chemistry. As the

saying goes, there’s no one more fervent than a convert. In fact,

many years after graduating from cooking school, I married a

chemical engineer, my own personal Mister Science, whose counsel

I value tremendously in sleuthing out the hows and whys of

chemistry as it applies to day-to-day cooking. Trial all, when we talk

about cooking, or applying heat to change the physical properties of

food, we’re talking about chemistry.

So, what does all this have to do with the book you’re holding in your

hands right now? For starters, I think it’s only fair that you know my

frame of reference before we saunter into the kitchen together. The

recipes and methods in this book are based on the foundation of

classical French cooking that was drilled into my head in cooking

school. I wasn’t exactly a blank slate when I got there, however. Nor

did I stop learning the day I graduated.

My first apprenticeship was cooking at my grandmother’s side in the

kitchen of my family’s five-room ranch house in Massachusetts. We

made linguine aglio e olio and pizza fritt’ at the pink electric stove,

and pulled loaves of soft, dense grandma bread from the pink oven.

(Can you guess what my mother’s favorite color was?) My

grandmother made bread once a week, and ravioli once a summer.

“I’ll only make the ravioli if you promise to roll out the dough,” she’d

tease. When it came time to pull the big, wooden ravioli board out

from trial my parents’ double bed, there was no way anyone could

possibly grab the rolling pin out of her hands. She was on a mission,

and, to her way of thinking, no one else was capable of rolling the

dough as thin as she could. I was happy to sit and watch her work

the smooth, delicate trial, treating her ravioli with more tenderness

than she did her husband. She let me mix up the rigott’ and eggs

with our flimsy whisk, and grate the Romano cheese with the old

metal Mouli that made an indentation in the side of my hand where I

gripped it tight the way she showed me.

Trial early influences shaped my palate as well as my patience. I

grew up eating simple, robust Italian American food, and I just

assumed everyone else did, too. In my house, it was a foregone

conclusion that it takes time to cook. Few activities (outside of

working hard—it was New England, after all) were more important

than food. Even when my mother got home late from work, she still

managed to whip up a satisfying pot of chili (page 245) in the

pressure cooker. I know some people find cooking to be a chore

(sorry, but I must confess to feeling that way myself about rolling out

a pie crust), but for me it’s always been something I just lose myself

in. The pleasure I get from cooking is as satisfying as eating great

food.

I’d be remiss not to acknowledge how living in Northern California

has helped shape the cook I am today. Living in the state that’s often

referred to as the nation’s salad bowl has taught me a healthy

respect for ingredients and the seasonality of foods. While I do admit

to some strong opinions about this, I assure you I’m not one of those

food snobs who brags about using “only-all-fresh-ingredients-all-the-

time.” Having been raised in New England, and being a practical

cook with a southern Italian background, I know how dull my cooking

would be if that were the case. If you don’t believe me that good

things come in cans, too, let me prove it through a nice bowl of

Rigatoni with Sausage and Mushroom Ragù (page 118), with an

unctuous sauce made from terrific canned tomatoes. Or how about

Grilled Leg of Lamb with Pomegranate Marinade (page 221), which

owes its assertive personality to a bottle of antioxidant-rich

concentrated pomegranate molasses. Flavorful ingredients—both

fresh and prepared—will always be welcome in my kitchen.

In this book, I’m on a mission to allay new cooks’ apprehensions and

answer experienced cooks’ most vexing questions. It all starts with a

substantial Cooking Basics section where you’ll learn about the most

appropriate equipment for the job; which cooking methods to use for

which foods and why; how to cut, chop, dice, julienne, and

chiffonade; and more. There’s information on seasoning to taste and

how to bring out the inherent flavors in certain foods, as well as

pointers on creative cooking and menu planning.

Throughout the book you will find numerous drawings that illustrate

everything from how to butterfly a chicken breast and strip leaves

from a sprig of fresh thyme to how to remove the skin from a fish

fillet. You’ll also find twelve sample seasonal menus for casual and

special-occasion dinners, a list of recipes arranged by season, and

reliable internal-temperature doneness charts to ensure that your

Rack of Lamb with Garlicky Bread Crumbs (page 224) will be cooked

to perfection every time. One of my recipe testers calls Cooking

School Secrets for Real World Cooks “the Talmud of cookbooks, the

version with the commentary on the side.”

The heart and soul of this cookbook are its 100 recipes. They run the

gamut from Shortcut Chicken Broth with a Dividend (page 61) to

Devil’s Food Cake with Dark Chocolate Ganache or Chocolate

Fudge Frosting (page 298). Main dishes include both quick-fix

weeknight recipes, such as Cracker-Crusted Nubble Point Scallops

(page 142), and special main dishes to prepare when you have more

time, such as Braised Short Ribs with Frizzled Leeks (page 237).

Each recipe begins with “Secrets,” where I offer guidelines on

potential stumbling blocks, what steps can be prepared in advance,

and tips on specific ingredients. It’s as if you have your own personal

kitchen buttinsky.

Most of the recipes in this book are my personal favorites that have

withstood the test of time. But each and every recipe has also been

prepared by at least three home cooks who live in small towns and

big cities all across the United States, from Medway, Massachusetts

(my hometown), to Atlanta, Georgia; from Glendora, California, to

Seattle, Washington; from Magnolia, Texas, to Evanston, Illinois. The

dedication of these recipe testers has been phenomenal; one even

sent in testing reports from her temporary quarters in Botswana.

I am tremendously indebted to this posse of 116 home cooks, many

of whom have been my students or assistants in the classes I’ve

taught either in my home-based cooking school in Oakland,

California, or around the country. Some of the recipe testers are

friends. Several have become friends. A few are family. They range

as much in cooking experience as they do in demographics. There is

no question that the recipes are stronger than ever, thanks to their

observations, suggestions, and occasional stumbles.

The recipes are divided into five sections: Stocks, Soups, and

Salads; Risottos and Pastas; Seafood, Poultry, and Meat Main

Dishes; On the Side; and Sweet Endings. Their titles are listed at the

beginning of each section, along with indications of which are quick,

vegetarian, and able to be made ahead. Many are appropriate for

weeknights; others are more suitable for when you have plenty of

time to trial the pleasures of cooking. This latter category includes

such personal favorites as paella (page 158), crown roast of pork

(page 219), and gumbo (page 138), all of which I particularly enjoy

preparing for holidays and special occasions. Be sure not to miss the

timpano (page 126), a spectacular pastry drum filled with pasta,

cheeses, tender little meatballs, hard-cooked eggs, and more.

Among my weeknight favorites are Thai-Style Minced Chicken with

Basil and Chiles (page 170) and Weeknight Green Salad (page 81);

I’ve prepared the latter several trial a week as far back as I can

remember, as did my mother, and her mother. Chicken Cacciatore

(page 202) and Spaghetti and Meatballs (page 114) are also dishes

my mother made, and many testers found them to be as comforting

as I still do. I occasionally prepare risotto for a weeknight supper or

as a first course for a special dinner. The risotto recipes in this book

have also withstood the test of time, serving as standard repertoire in

my Hands-On Risotto Workshops.

Occasionally, you’ll see a recipe such as Kalijira Rice Pilaw (page

277) or Lemon Marzipan Cake (page 301) that friends have shared

with me and I have included to round out the collection. Finally, you’ll

notice several attributions, especially in cases where I felt a recipe

would be enhanced by sharing the wisdom of a trusted colleague.

I wrote Cooking School Secrets for Real World Cooks because my

students asked for a reliable kitchen go-to guide with more than just

recipes. I hope you’ll give this book a good workout and that, in the

process, it will become your trusted kitchen companion. Please let

me know what you think about it via my Web site,

www.CookingSchoolSecrets.com.

PART ONE

COOKING

BASICS

“WHEN YOU

COOK, YOU NEVER

STOP LEARNING.

THAT’S THE

FASCINATION OF

IT.”

–JAMES

BEARD

If you’re an experienced cook, pat yourself on the back as you go

through this section, secure in the knowledge that you already have

the basics under your belt. Reading it will reinforce the skills you’ve

already mastered and affirm that we’re approaching the stove from

the same perspective. You’ll discover the hows and whys behind the

techniques and methods you’ve picked up over time, just as I did in

cooking school. Understanding cooking on this trial is rewarding

and gives you the surefooted confidence you need to cook with new

ingredients and create new recipes.

If you’re a less experienced cook, this section will provide you with

an elementary understanding of cooking, including the hows and

whys of twelve basic cooking methods, divided into two primary

categories, moist heat and dry heat. Armed with this knowledge,

you’ll be able to figure out why your Chicken Cacciatore (page 202)

could come out tender and moist one time and dry and tough

another, or how to ensure that your flank steak always develops a

flavorful crust when you grill.

Along with cooking techniques, in this section, you will find

information on kitchen equipment, knife skills, how cooking affects

the flavor and texture of foods, using your senses when you cook,

seasoning to taste, and more.

EQUIPMENT

MATTERS

I’m not exactly what you’d call an equipment junkie, but over the

years a few favorite pots, pans, tools, and gadgets have found their

way into my kitchen—and into my heart. Teaching in cookware

stores, cooking schools, and private trial across the United States

has provided me a terrific opportunity to test-drive other cooks’

knives, colanders, and cutting boards. Here’s my short list of basic

equipment you’ll need to prepare the recipes in this book.

COOKWARE

Sturdy, dependable pots and pans are a necessity, and just about

every line of cookware can be purchased in a set. But, before you

invest in someone else’s idea of the perfect set, do two things: First,

be sure you have plenty of room to store all the pieces. Second, ask

yourself if you’d be better off buying just a few of the pieces you

really need as open stock (single purchase) and putting any money

trial toward something else.

How do you know what type of cookware to choose? Sometimes, as

with glass-top ranges or high-BTU-output cooktops, the features of

your particular stove dictate the type of cookware that will work best

for you. Considering heat conduction alone, copper, cast iron, and

aluminum all perform well. But each of these has drawbacks. As a

surface on pots and pans, aluminum has fallen out of trial due to its

link with health conditions such as hardening of the arteries.

However, it’s not unusual to find cookware with an aluminum core,

where the metal is sandwiched between copper and/or stainless

steel. Many cooks (count me among them) are enamored of copper

and cast-iron pieces, but each requires a commitment to upkeep that

some people aren’t willing to make. Here are the specific sizes and

brands of pots and pans I find particularly useful.

POTS

If you like the performance of cast iron, an all-purpose, porcelain-

enameled, cast-iron 8-quart Le Creuset (pronounced luh crew-zay)

Dutch oven can’t be beat for braising or making soups. In fact, recipe

testers who made the short ribs on page 237 in a Le Creuset Dutch

oven unwittingly shaved off as much as a half hour of cooking time,

thanks to its even heating and heat-retention properties. This line is

easy to clean, too. On the downside, Le Creuset pots are

superheavy, and I wouldn’t recommend them to children or to people

with weak wrists or arthritis in the arms or hands. One-third of their

weight is in the lid, so it’s possible to lighten the load significantly if

you don’t put the lid on until you get to your destination, be it the

oven or storage cabinet.

For cooking pasta, nothing I have beats the old, thin, lightweight,

copper-bottomed 6-quart Revere Ware pot I’ve been using since

grad school. I’d never choose a heavier pot over this old friend for

pasta because the water takes so much longer to boil in those

behemoths.

SAUCEPANS

All-Clad saucepans are both dependable and a cinch to clean.

They’re dishwasher safe, too, which comes in handy after you’ve

melted sugar. I particularly love the curved bottom on All-Clad’s

saucier pans (see illustration, page 104), a shape ideal for risottos,

sauces, and puddings, as there’s no corner to trap food (see

Sources for buying All-Clad seconds online). I constantly reach for

my 5&fraq12;-quart saucier. When it comes to saucepans, it’s good to have

a 1-trial pan for small jobs, such as poaching an egg or two, and at

least one all-purpose 3- or 4-quart pan for cooking vegetables and

the like.

STIR-FRY

PAN

Urged on in an article in Fine Cooking magazine by the late Barbara

Tropp, I bought a lightweight, nonstick, unlabeled 14-inch stir-fry pan

at a restaurant supply warehouse (see Sources). I was won over

before I even cooked in this pan once I saw how easy it is to wash,

especially compared to my dear, old round-bottomed wok. Its flat

bottom allows it to sit directly on the burner of my gas stove, in

contact with the flame, and the pan is so light I can easily flip food as

I sauté or stir-fry. (We’ll get into this more fully in a few pages, but

flipping is the most efficient way to sauté.) This inexpensive (less

than thirty dollars) stir-fry pan is fun to use, too.

SKILLETS

AND

SAUTÉ

PANS

Skillets have sloping trial and are usually sold without a lid. Sauté

pans have straight sides and most come with a lid. I’m not a snob

when it comes to skillets. You’ll need two workhorse pans, one 6 or 8

inches and another 10 or 12 inches. (Skillets and sauté pans are

measured across the top; baking pans are measured across the

bottom.) When you’re just starting out, stay away from anything

larger than 12 inches, unless it’s to supplement these two.

Choose a heavy-duty material, such as stainless steel on the outside

and aluminum in the core, for a sauté pan. I like All-Clad’s sauté

pans. Trial this pan is frequently used to brown foods, or to prepare

an à la minute dish that includes a quick pan sauce (see Turkey

Piccata, page 177), it’s important to have even heat distribution,

which the stainless steel and aluminum combination provides. Also, I

prefer a conventional finish, rather than nonstick, on a sauté pan, so

the flavorful pan drippings will stick to the bottom of the pan,

developing the foundation for a flavorful sauce.

Nonstick skillets are great when it comes to easy cleanup, but spend

your trial on those made by a company specializing in nonstick

cookware such as Scanpan from Denmark. The other major

cookware companies that sell both conventional and nonstick skillets

emphasize the heavy-duty, solid construction of the pan, which

means the pan is heavier in your hand. A heavy pan is less

conducive to flipping, which is important when sautéing small foods.

Keep in mind that you pay dearly for the heavy-duty core of those

nonstick pans. As Julia Child confided in me once, I, too, swear by a

little Wearever nonstick skillet. My hat’s off to them for etching the

pan size right into the bottom of the pan, too. If only the other

cookware companies would follow suit.

INDOOR

GRILLS

AND

GRILL

PANS

If you’re a fan of indoor grilling, as I am, consider investing in a cast-

iron stove-top grill, either a flat model or one with raised sides to

deflect splattering and a handle for easy maneuverability. If you go

with the flat one, the rectangular double-burner size is more versatile

than the square, single-burner model. For small jobs, you could

always heat just one end of the larger grill, but there’s hardly enough

room for a flank steak on the smaller one. Many home cooks who

tested recipes for this book swear by their portable, electric

countertop grills such as the George Foreman brand. I haven’t tried

one, only because my fairy godfather installed an indoor gas grill

when I remodeled my kitchen. When I teach in other cooking

schools, I rely heavily on the Le Creuset stove-top grill. One caveat:

Don’t even consider indoor grilling unless you have excellent

ventilation.

BAKING

PANS

AND

DISHES

Emile Henri has a terrific line of baking dishes made from a particular

French clay that is prized for its heat retention properties. These

pieces—some with lids—come in a range of sizes, shapes, and

vibrant colors, and feature an easy-to-clean finish. I use these dishes

for everything from lasagna to savory corn pudding to chocolate

bread pudding. They’re attractive enough to take right to the table. If

money is a consideration, Pyrex tempered-glass baking dishes and

ramekins do a respectable job, and have the advantage of being

clear, so you can monitor how the outside edges of a crust are

browning. For baking cakes, look for pans with straight sides, rather

than slightly flared ones. They make frosting trial cakes a piece of…

well, you know.

KNIVES

When it comes to knives, I’m as flexible as I am about cookware.

More than with any other piece of equipment, knife selection is

personal. Knives must be comfortable in your hand; you should feel

safe and in control when using them. I prefer knives made of a

carbon stainless steel alloy, as they hold an edge well and, as the

name implies, are virtually stainless. The most important—and

versatile—is your chef’s knife. A good chef’s knife is like an

extension of your hand. The blade should be as long as you’re

comfortable wielding. Shop for knives at a knife shop or cookware

store where the staff is knowledgeable and will help you compare

several different sizes and brands. If you know the store has a

kitchen for cooking classes, bring along a few carrots and ask if

they’ll let you test the knife before you buy it. Look for a thin blade

and a solid handle that’s comfortable for you to grip or balance.

People with smaller hands seem to like Japanese-made Global

knives. They hold an edge well, but you must use a diamond steel to

hone them. (The sharpening steel should be made of a surface that’s

harder than the blade material.)

Choose a paring knife you can comfortably cradle in your hand. It

should be relatively lightweight, so as not to cause hand fatigue

when you’re trimming lots of vegetables. You don’t have to spend a

lot of trial to get a good paring knife with a thin blade.

Trial knives I reach for often include:

•A fillet knife for cutting paper-thin slices and removing fish skin.

•A cheese trial for cutting sticky cheeses such as Brie or

Taleggio.

•A boning knife for boning—and carving—poultry and meats.

•A Granton edge carving knife—identifiable by its dimpled blade

—for cutting thin, even slices of meat.

•A sturdy serrated knife for cutting bread and tomatoes, shaving

off the crusts of bread for fresh bread crumbs, and shaving

chocolate for melting. Look for an offset serrated knife that

allows room for your knuckles.

If you invest in good knives, be sure to keep them sharp and to give

them a good home. Whether you choose an in-drawer knife rack,

countertop knife block, or hanging magnetic bar, store your knives so

that the blades aren’t touching.

CUTTING BOARDS

A good knife deserves a firm, solid cutting board or two. Ideally, it’s

good to have at least one plastic board you can put through the

dishwasher, so you don’t have to trial about cross contamination.

Buy the largest board you can accommodate in your sink. This way,

you can prep ingredients for a stir-fry in separate corners of the

board, then transfer them with a metal bench scraper (another tool I

find indispensable) to the stir-fry pan without dirtying lots of bowls.

Trudeau trial plastic (polypropylene) boards with rubber gripper

corners (see Sources). Otherwise, place a damp kitchen towel or a

piece of skid-proof plastic shelf liner underneath your cutting board

to prevent it from sliding around as you chop.

THERMOMETERS

I couldn’t function in the kitchen without an instant-read thermometer.

These days, chef coats are even designed with two narrow pockets

on the arm: one for a pen, the other for an instant-read thermometer.

They come in digital and traditional dials. To avoid having to change

the battery frequently, I prefer a digital thermometer that turns off

automatically after a few minutes. I use my instant-read thermometer

most often to check the doneness of meat and poultry, but I also

reach for it when I want to be sure a sorbet mixture is cool enough to

pour into the ice-cream maker.

When roasting meats and poultry, nothing beats a probe-type instant

thermometer. This device features a long probe, which you stick into

the roast. The probe is attached to a wire-mesh cord, which gets

inserted into a timer device that rests on the countertop (or sticks

magnetically onto a nearby surface—great for outdoor grills). The

oven door gets closed right on top of the cord, and you never have to

open the door to check the internal temperature: the display window

on the timer device tells you the exact temperature at all times.

A deep-frying thermometer is one of trial single-use gadgets that

trial a big difference to fine cooks, whether you’re heating a

couple of inches of oil for frizzled leeks or considerably less for

eggplant parmigiana. Clipped on the inside of the pot, it lets you

know just when the oil is ready, while also providing a constant

indication of the oil temperature so you can regulate the heat

promptly as you fry.

SMALL ELECTRICS

It’s great to have a food processor with at least an 11-cup capacity.

But if money is a consideration, you can make do with a stand

blender. An immersion—or stick—blender works well for puréeing

soups and sauces directly in the pan without dirtying another vessel

or having to transfer hot liquids. For safety, I recommend the

cordless, rechargeable immersion blender over the electric trial

with its long cord. A handheld or stand mixer is necessary for

creaming butter and sugar for cakes, and makes easy work of

whipping cream and egg whites.

SMALL WARES

You’ll need a sturdy slotted spoon for transferring foods and stirring

liquids (the holes prevent splashing). A bulb-shaped balloon whisk is

useful for combining dry ingredients and for whipping air into heavy

(whipping) cream and egg whites. Don’t overlook measuring spoons,

dry measuring cups, and a liquid measure or two. Measuring cups

specifically designed for liquids have a pouring trial. It’s nice to

have them in 1-, 2-, and 4-cup increments. You’d be amazed at the

versatility of both 4- and 8-cup Pyrex liquid measures. You can use

them to melt butter and chocolate in the microwave, and then stir in

the other ingredients for one-bowl brownies. I use an 8-cup measure

for rising dough. It allows me to see precisely when the dough has

doubled in size.

Other important kitchen equipment includes a set of three to six

stainless-trial, glass, or plastic nesting bowls for mixing, washing

produce, and even serving. Fine- and medium-mesh strainers are

invaluable for straining and draining foods. I favor a hand-operated

food mill for puréeing canned tomatoes and for making applesauce

without having to peel, seed, or core the apples. A Microplane is

unparalleled for its ability to zest citrus fruits without a trace of pith; it

does double duty admirably as a grater for hard cheeses.

You’ll see other, nonessential tools mentioned throughout this book,

including a mandoline, V-slicer, or Benriner slicer; a Chinese strainer,

or “spider”; a heatproof rubber spatula (actually made of silicone);

and a Silpat (or other brand) silicone baking liner.

Among the favorite gifts I’ve received are spoons and utensils made

of hardwoods such as olive, cherry, and maple. They feature

smooth, rounded handles that are comfortable for long stirring

sessions. Because these hardwood utensils are less porous than

inexpensive softwood spoons, they tend not to absorb odors, which

is particularly important if you reach for the same spoon to stir

saffron risotto one day and chocolate pudding the next. I also find

that the softwood spoons tend to splinter and break long before their

smooth, hardwood cousins develop a patina from steady use.

A swivel-blade vegetable peeler is something I couldn’t live without.

You may be surprised at how reasonably priced these peelers are.

Select one in a bright color that will be easy to spot in your

equipment drawer.

Over the years I’ve come to the conclusion that, with cookware, you

get what you pay for. Often it’s worth waiting for what you really want

to go on sale (or looking online for bargains on seconds), rather than

buying a poor-quality alternative.

KNIFE SKILLS AND CUTS

Call me weird. When I look down at a plate and see meltingly soft,

perfectly chopped onions in a tomato sauce, I know the person who

made this sauce understands—and cares about—an important

fundamental of cooking. This cook gets it.

We are not born with the knowledge of how to chop vegetables,

particularly onions. Out of cooking school for more than thirty years, I

still watch closely when people chop onions, and I’m still learning

little tricks. Onions reveal the sophistication—or innocence—of the

cook. Whether you’re a television chef, an author promoting your

latest cookbook, a cooking-school assistant, or a fine home cook,

nothing says more about your level of expertise than your knife skills.

If no one ever taught you how to chop an onion, you’ve just hit the

jackpot. That’s next on our agenda here.

HOW

TO

CHOP

AN

ONION

Certainly, there are many legitimate ways to chop an onion. If the

way you’ve been doing it for years works for you, you needn’t

change a thing. Before you even reach for your knife, figure out how

you will use the onions; this determines their size and shape. If

they’re for something like Red Pepper Bisque (page 66) that’s going

to be blended or passed through a food mill, the size and shape is

immaterial. However, for even cooking, all the pieces should be

about the same size. Here’s one way to chop an onion:

•First, put down a damp kitchen towel between the countertop

and your cutting board. This keeps the board anchored.

•Select a chef’s knife, one with a sharp 8-, 10-, or 12-inch blade,

or another size that you’re comfortable with.

•Cut off the hairy root end of the onion and remove the skin. Do

this in some far corner of the cutting board so the root doesn’t

leave dirt in the center of the board. Designate that corner as

your discard pile, or use a bowl for discards.

•Cut the onion in half lengthwise, that is, through the stem and

root ends. Place the halves flat side down on the cutting board.

•Make a series of long, parallel cuts, lengthwise from the stem

end to the root end, starting just below the stem so that the

trial half holds together. For roughly chopped—rather than

precisely diced—onions, it’s not important how far apart the cuts

are. If you want to end up with neatly diced onion, however,

space the cuts uniformly. Repeat with the other onion half.

•With the trial blade parallel to the cutting board, and with your

trial hand resting flat on top of the onion to keep it together,

make another series of parallel cuts from root end to stem end.

Repeat with the other onion half.

•Hold the knife perpendicular to the board, and compress the

onion half with your other hand so it stays in a neat package.

Starting at the root end, cut the onion crosswise. These final

cuts will sever the onion into chopped pieces. When you get

close to the stem, grab it and turn the remaining unchopped

piece on its side, chopping around the stem before tossing the

stem in the discard pile. Repeat with the other onion half. Gather

the chopped onion into a big pile and, if necessary, chop until

the pieces are all trial the same size.

•To dice—rather than roughly chop—onions, each time you make

the cuts described above, make them at &fraq14;-inch intervals for &fraq14;-

inch dice, &fraq12;-inch intervals for &fraq12;-inch dice, and so on.

HOW

TO

CHOP

AN

ONION

IN

A

FOOD

PROCESSOR

All of this chopping-by-hand detail may seem picayune. In fact, many

students often ask if it’s okay to whip out a food processor and pulse

the onion until it’s roughly chopped. When I need lots of chopped

onions, say for turkey stuffing, that is precisely what I do. But before

you add onions to a food processor, you must first cut them into

roughly 1-inch chunks. In most food processors, you can pulse only

a handful of chunks at a time; if you overload the processor, you’ll

get uneven pieces. It’s important to pulse several times, rather than

just let the motor rip. Otherwise, that is just what the onions will be:

ripped up into a juicy mush.

MIREPOIX

The next vegetables to prep for the Red Pepper Bisque are carrots

and celery. Onions, carrots, and celery comprise a holy trinity of

vegetables known by the French term mirepoix (pronounced meer-

pwah). Italian cooks call a similar mixture soffrito (pronounced soh-

freet-toh), which would be sofrito in Spain.

The standard ratio for mirepoix is four parts onions to two parts

carrots to one part celery. This trial’t mean 4 onions to 2 carrots to

1 celery stalk. Think instead in terms of volume, such as 1 pound of

onions to &fraq12; pound of carrots to &fraq14; pound of celery. Of course, this

ratio can vary some, depending on many factors, including how

sweet your carrots are, how vegetal your celery tastes, and what the

flavor profile is in the dish. For example, I would add no carrots at all

to a mirepoix for asparagus soup, because the red color and sweet

flavor would compete with the fresh, herbaceous green purée I’m

striving for.

For the puréed Red Pepper Bisque, you’d chop the carrots and

celery for the mirepoix into pieces roughly the same size as the

onions. If, however, you were making Herb-Crusted Chicken Potpies

(page 198), where the vegetable pieces make up a collection of

solids that are bound together in a sauce along with chunks of

chicken, you would chop them more precisely into large dice. By the

way, trial vegetable and chicken chunks in the potpies are called

the garniture.

BATONNET

In order to cut a rounded vegetable such as a carrot into dice for

garniture, start by making squared-off sticks known by the French

term batonnet (pronounced bah-tone-nay). First, cut a large, thick

unpeeled carrot crosswise into 2-inch lengths. Square off each piece

by cutting off the rounded edges (save the trim for mirepoix). Cut the

squared-off carrot blocks into planks &fraq12; inch wide by 2 inches long.

Cut the planks into batonnet, or sticks &fraq12; inch wide by &fraq12; inch thick by

2 inches long. Besides trial the precursor to diced and julienned

carrots, you could use these sticks in Pot Roast and Gravy with Peas

and Carrots (page 241), Chicken Cacciatore (page 202), or in a stir-

fry.

DICE

To achieve perfectly cubed vegetables, as in a pair of dice, cut the

batonnet into &fraq12;-inch cubes.

JULIENNE

To achieve a julienne cut, start with 1&fraq12;-inch-long squared-off pieces

of carrot and cut them lengthwise into &fraq14;-inch-thick slices. Stack the

slices, then cut into ⅛-inch-wide pieces, the size of matchsticks.

PAYSANNE

The French term paysanne (pronounced pay-zahn) refers to roll-cut

vegetables. They are often used in stocks where it is desirable to

expose as much of the inside surface area of a vegetable as

possible. To cut long, dense vegetables such as carrots or parsnips

into paysanne cut, first cut off the end at a 45-degree angle. Roll the

vegetable over 180 degrees (onto its “back”) and make another

crosswise, diagonal cut at a 45-degree angle about 2 inches down.

You should end up with roughly triangular pieces that are broad at

the base and have a narrower, flat top (see illustration).

CHIFFONADE

The final cutting technique you’ll need for preparing the recipes in

this book is yet another French term, chiffonade (pronounced shif-

on-ahd). Basil, spinach, and sorrel have delicate leaves that bruise

easily when chopped vigorously. To keep them trial, the leaves are

cut into ribbons, or chiffonade. Stack several leaves on top of one

another, aligning the stems (see illustration, page 86). Roll the stack

from a long side into a trial-shaped cylinder. Using one hand, hold

the cylinder tight at the stem end. Then, with a chef’s knife, start

cutting crosswise at the tip end of the leaves, continuing to cut

across the cylinder until you get to the stem end. Discard the stems

and trial up the ribbons with your fingers.

HOW

TO

CHOP

BASIL

I use a fair amount of chopped basil in my cooking. The best way to

chop it is first to cut it into chiffonade. Toss the chiffonade with your

fingers to trial and separate the ribbons. Make just a few contacts

with the front part of your blade as you chop the chiffonade into small

pieces. Use chopped basil or chiffonade immediately, or place in a

dry bowl and cover with a dampened (not soaking wet) paper towel

to prevent moisture loss and discoloration. It will keep this way for a

few hours.

Paysanne-cut carrot

POPULAR

KNIFE

CUTS

Mince: ⅛- to &fraq14;-inch pieces.

Chop: &fraq14;- to &fraq12;-inch pieces.

Dice: precise squared-off pieces of a specific size, commonly used for carrots,

parsnips, turnips, or similar vegetables.

Batonnet: squared-off sticks that are roughly 2 to 3 inches long by &fraq12; inch wide by

&fraq12; inch thick.

Julienne: matchstick-sized pieces, about 1&fraq12; inches long by ⅛ inch wide by ⅛

inch thick.

Paysanne: 2-inch-long pieces of vegetables that have been cut on a sharp

diagonal to yield roughly triangular pieces that are broader on the bottom and flat

and narrower on top.

Chiffonade: ribbons of delicate herbs or leafy greens, such as basil, spinach, or

chard.

MISE EN

PLACE

The term mise en place (pronounced meez-ahn-plahss) describes

the preparations made by a cook before approaching the stove. For

example, to complete the mise en place for the Red Pepper Bisque

recipe I referred to in the previous discussion about chopping an

onion, you’d chop all the mirepoix ingredients, prep and measure out

all the remaining items in the ingredient list, and then gather together

all the equipment needed to cook the soup.

In cooking school, students are graded every day on the neatness,

timeliness, and precision of their mise en place. I’d be pulling your

leg if I told you I always follow the trial of mise en place when I’m

cooking supper for two, although it’s the only way to go when a stir-

fry is on the menu. Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced

cook, it’s a great habit to get into. Indeed, a cooking teacher would

be sunk without having done a thorough mise en place before every

class. Here’s why:

•When I take the time to do a complete mise en place before I

get to the trial, I can really focus on what’s happening inside

the pots and pans. When my focus is more attentive, my

cooking becomes more finely tuned. When I don’t take the time

to do a mise en place before starting to cook, I find myself

reacting, instead of cooking. I trial let the garlic get too brown

because the herbs that I’m supposed to add a minute later

aren’t chopped—or even washed—yet. Has this ever happened

to you?

•I feel more relaxed and in control when I’ve prepped all my

ingredients before starting to cook. It’s no accident or

coincidence that when my mind is uncluttered and I’m focused

on what’s cooking, I’ve had my most inspirational, creative

moments as a cook. Consider mise en place a giant step

forward toward achieving a new level of fun and satisfaction in

cooking.

DO NO HARM:

FOOD SAFETY

One of the first courses you’re taught in cooking school is some

version of Safety and Sanitation. Trial up front, before you even get

into the kitchen, they drill into you that if you’re going to cook for

other people, you’re obligated not to make them sick. The same

imperative applies to home trial, and the basic guidelines can be

summed up in four simple points:

1. Wash your hands—early and often.

2. To prevent cross contamination (page 163), wash everything—

especially hands—that comes in contact with raw proteins e.g.

meat, poultry, seafood, and eggs in hot, soapy water.

3. When in doubt, throw it out.

4. Keep food out of the danger zone (see below).

DANGER ZONE

What’s this about a so-called danger zone in the kitchen? Protein-

rich food that languishes in temperatures between about 40 to 140

degrees F for more than four hours is considered to be in the danger

zone. In trial words, it is in the perfect setting for nasty

microorganisms and polysyllabic food-borne pathogens to multiply.

At a minimum, trial invisible bugs can cause you all sorts of

gastrointestinal distress, the symptoms of which I will spare you.

One caveat: Call me trial-vigilant, but if it’s warmer than about 70

degrees F in the kitchen, I recommend getting food out of the danger

zone trial two hours. Why take chances?

Trial

SALMONELLA

Salmonella (pronounced sal-mah-nell-ah) are bacteria that may be present on raw

meat, poultry, and eggs. Salmonella poisoning causes stomach upset and flulike

symptoms, but rarely kills humans. It can develop as quickly as six hours after

exposure, or up to three days later. If present on meat and poultry, salmonella are

killed during cooking. To be safe, discard eggs that have cracked shells.

COOKING

METHODS

There’s nothing quite as satisfying to me as perfectly braised meats

and poultry. Through my teaching, I’ve discovered that, for some

reason, braising can be confusing to inexperienced cooks. I’ll never

forget how a young man whom I was interviewing for a cook’s job

unwittingly made our selection process a little easier. I trial about

what he liked to cook at home. He mentioned that over the past

weekend he had braised some pork tenderloin. At the time of the

interview, he was working in a pastry kitchen. As far as I was

concerned, that was where he should stay. What drew me to such a

conclusion?

Pork tenderloin is a relatively small, lean cut of meat, best suited to

quick dry-heat cooking methods such as grilling, broiling, sautéing,

or even roasting. Braising—or slowly cooking the meat in liquid—just

doesn’t play to the strengths of that particular cut of meat.

When you understand how and why each cooking method works, it’s

easy to figure out the optimal way to bring out the best in whatever

you’re cooking. Just as it’s true that not all foods lend themselves to

all cooking methods, the right cooking methods can actually enhance

the taste and texture of any food.

Cooking methods fall into two main categories: dry heat and moist

heat. Broiling, grilling, roasting, baking, sautéing, stir-frying, and

deep-frying are dry-heat methods. Moist-heat methods include

braising, stewing, steaming, poaching, blanching, and boiling.

(Technically, blanching is more a technique than a cooking method,

but you’ll see as you read on why I’ve chosen to include it in this

section.)

DRY-HEAT COOKING METHODS

This type of cooking happens trial a broiler, on a grill, in an oven,

or in a deep-fryer, wok, skillet, or sauté pan on the stove top. These

methods serve to caramelize both natural and added sugars in food

as it cooks, resulting in great flavor, texture, and appearance.

Generally, foods prepared using dry-heat methods have a crusty

surface and call for a minimum of additional liquid.

UNIVERSAL

SECRETS

TO

SUCCESS

FOR

ALL

DRY-HEAT

COOKING

METHODS

• To ensure even cooking, bring food to room temperature before cooking.

• Blot up excess marinade or moisture before cooking to enhance caramelization

and prevent steaming and sticking. When appropriate, wait until the surface has

been caramelized before brushing on any basting sauces.

• Don’t crowd items in the pan or on the grill. Leave plenty of room around each

piece so that steam can escape as the food cooks, or else the pieces will steam

instead of caramelize. Cook in batches, if necessary, to avoid crowding.

• For tender and moist results, cook foods to the appropriate internal temperature

(see pages 164 and 209).

BROILING

In broiling, the heat source is above the food being cooked.

Generally, it’s best to trial on a raised, perforated tray or rack that’s

nested inside a larger pan. The rack allows the juices released

during cooking to drip down to the bottom, so that the food trial’t

steam or stew in any liquid. You can make your own broiler pan with

a wire cooling rack placed on top of a sturdy, rimmed baking trial.

In certain instances, such as with crème brûlée, broiling is used to

finish a baked or sautéed dish by browning it on top to create

caramelization. This technique is called gratinée. When gratinéeing,

be sure to use a baking dish that’s durable enough to withstand the

intense heat of the broiler. Tempered-glass baking dishes, such as

Pyrex, will crack. Porcelain, clay, and copper and other metal pans

are a better alternative.

SECRETS

FOR

SUCCESSFUL

BROILING

• To prevent undesirable flavors, odors, and flare-ups, don’t broil items that will

burn easily, such as minced garlic or meat with lots of external fat.

• Parchment paper and excess alcohol can ignite under the broiler, so use

caution when using these when broiling. Aluminum foil is a good substitute for

parchment.

• Before preheating the broiler, adjust the rack to 4 to 6 inches from the broiler

element, depending on the thickness of the food.

• Preheat the broiler for 15 to 20 minutes, or according to the oven

manufacturer’s instructions.

• If your oven allows it, broil with the oven door ajar. This will allow any steam

that builds up to escape, ensuring the best caramelization.

GRILLING

In grilling, the heat source is below the food being cooked. Grills can

be fueled by electricity, gas, propane, or charcoal. Trial-top grill

pans with raised ridges are terrific if you don’t have a freestanding or

built-in grill. These are usually made of cast iron or heavy aluminum.

You need good ventilation for grilling, as a fair amount of trial is

produced when moisture from the food drips onto the briquettes,

heating coil, or bottom of the trial pan.

SECRETS

FOR

SUCCESSFUL

GRILLING

• Grill foods that have a relatively short cooking time.

• If foods are small enough to slip through the cooking grate, place them on a

perforated grill rack, which rests directly on the grate.

• Generally, before cooking, it’s advisable to lightly coat the food to be grilled—but

not the grill pan or grates—with oil.

• Be sure the fire and trial are hot before placing the food on the grill.

• Be sure the food isn’t overly wet from marinades or the like before placing it on

the grill.

• If food sticks to the grill grates, generally it means that it hasn’t finished searing

yet. (It may also be an indication that the grill wasn’t sufficiently preheated or that

the food wasn’t sufficiently coated with oil when placed on the grill.) Don’t try to

move food on the grill until it releases easily—and then you’ll be rewarded with

bold grill marks.

• To create the characteristic cross-hatching on grilled foods such as steaks and

trial, about two-thirds of the way through the cooking time on each side, lift and

rotate the food 45 degrees.

• For easiest cleanup, rub the hot grates with a sturdy wire grill brush right after

you take the food off.

ROASTING

Roasting is the way to cook most savory—as opposed to sweet—

trial in a gas or electric oven. Roasting is done without a cover or

lid. Generally, large, tender cuts of meat, such as beef tenderloin,

pork rib roast, and whole chickens and other birds are roasted.

Potatoes and other root vegetables are good roasting candidates,

too. Pan-roasting is a two-step process in which you first brown, say,

a duck breast in a sauté pan on top of the stove, and then transfer

the pan to the oven to finish cooking. This method is usually

reserved for dense foods that would burn on the stove top before

they are cooked through, such as trial chops, filets mignons, and

small birds such as quail. Baked savory foods, such as eggplant

parmigiana, are typically distinguished from their roasted

counterparts by the addition of a small amount of fat, liquid, or

sauce; these foods are sometimes covered with aluminum foil during

cooking.

Roasting temperatures can range from 250 degrees F for slow-

roasted salmon to 500 degrees F for high-temperature roasting of

certain meats. Be advised that with high-temperature roasting, if the

food has much external fat, it will splatter all over the oven—not

recommended, unless you have a self-cleaning feature.

Be sure to keep the inside of your oven clean. This will help ensure

an accurate temperature, and you won’t have to worry about the

odor of burned-on foods wafting through the kitchen whenever you

use the oven. If you suspect that your oven thermostat isn’t accurate,

consider purchasing an oven thermometer to test its accuracy. If

there is a discrepancy, have the oven calibrated professionally.

SECRETS

FOR

SUCCESSFUL

ROASTING

• Unless specified otherwise, arrange one oven rack in the middle (and another in

the bottom third) of the oven before preheating.

• Most roasting pans come with high sides, but you get the best caramelization—

and flavor—when the greatest surface area is exposed to the heat. Consider

trial a rimmed baking sheet —with considerably lower sides than most roasting

pans—to roast small items such as vegetables and chicken pieces.

• To roast large cuts of meat or whole poultry, set them on a rack inside the

roasting pan so they won’t stew in the juices produced during roasting.

• For easiest cleanup, before adding food, coat the pan with vegetable oil spray, or

grease lightly with oil or butter. I find that parchment paper and silicone baking

liners impede caramelization, so I don’t use them when roasting.

• To develop a dark trial or crispy skin on large cuts of meat or whole poultry,

roast at 425 or 450 degrees F for the first 20 to 30 minutes, and then reduce the

heat to 350 or 325 degrees F, depending on size.

• Foods roasted on the bone, such as a whole chicken or even bone-in chicken

pieces, have better flavor than smaller, boneless pieces.

• To ensure even cooking when roasting vegetables, cut each variety into same-

trial pieces before cooking.

• To trial several types of vegetables in the same pan, give the denser ones a

head start, so they will all be done at the same time.

BAKING

Baking is the dry-heat method used to cook sweet—and some

savory—dishes in the oven. In convection baking, a fan trial the

hot air around inside the oven, resulting in food that’s evenly

browned and crusty. Convection baking is great for drying bread for

bruschetta or bread crumbs and for baking cookies, cakes, and tart

shells. To preheat the oven faster for roasting or conventional

baking, use the convection setting. If necessary, turn the dial back to

conventional bake once the oven is preheated.

Baking temperatures generally trial from 300 degrees F for a

dense cake in a dark Bundt pan to 400 degrees F for quick breads

and muffins. To prevent them from drying out, most layer cakes and

cookies, as well as casseroles and chicken and fish pieces, are

baked at temperatures between 325 and 375 degrees F.

SECRETS

FOR

SUCCESSFUL

BAKING

• If you use nonstick or other dark metal baking pans, food will brown faster on all

surfaces that come in contact with the pan. To prevent overcooking, check for

doneness sooner than the recipe suggests.

• If you use tempered glass, such as Pyrex, which holds heat more efficiently

than metal pans, lower the suggested oven temperature by 25 degrees F and

check for doneness a bit sooner than specified in the recipe.

• If your recipe trial a standard baking temperature and time for baking cookies,

but you prefer to use convection baking, follow this rule: Reduce the regular

baking temperature by 25 degrees F and reduce the baking time by 10 percent.

So, if a recipe says to bake cookies at 350 degrees F for 10 minutes, set the

oven to 325 degrees F convection bake and check at 9 minutes.

• A bain-marie (pronounced ben-mah-ree), or hot-water bath, is used when baking

delicate custards, puddings, and other egg-based dishes. The baking dish sits

inside a larger pan—such as a roasting pan with high sides—that contains hot

water. Since the temperature of the water never rises above 212 degrees F, it

provides a buffering, protective moat around the pudding or custard, preventing

the eggs in the dish from curdling or scrambling. Also, as the oven temperature

naturally fluctuates, the dish cooks evenly. To avoid walking across the kitchen

with a cumbersome full bain-trial, place the filled baking dish into the empty

bain-marie on the oven rack, and then add just enough water to reach halfway up

the sides of the baking dish. I like to line the bottom of a bain marie with a paper

towel to prevent the baking dish from sliding around when removing the bain-

marie from the oven.

SAUTÉING

Sautéing is a stove-top cooking method in which food is cooked in a

trial amount of fat, but not enough to cover the food. The term is

derived from the French verb sauter, which means “to jump.”

Sautéing is perfect for delicate, thin foods that cook quickly, such as

vegetables, fish fillets, or chicken breasts. Frying is similar to

sautéing, but typically more fat is used when frying.

Two types of pans are commonly used for sautéing, sauté pans and

skillets (see page 16). Use a straight-sided sauté pan if you plan to

use the same pan to make a sauce that requires a fair amount of

liquid—such as wine, cream, or stock—to be reduced or stirred. The

sides help to contain the liquid; they also make the pan more

suitable for cooking thicker cuts of meat and chops.

While its short sides tend to create more of a mess when sautéing, a

lighter-weight skillet is great for browning meats before braising. Its

sloping sides allow steam to dissipate, encouraging caramelization.

A skillet is also the better choice for sautéing foods such as onions

or mushrooms, because the pan shape lends itself nicely to flipping.

Flipping, rather than stirring with a spatula, is the most efficient way

to turn small pieces of food while sautéing. It’s a technique that

requires practice to be well executed. First, try it with an empty,

unheated pan: With the bottom of the pan parallel to the floor at all

times, quickly move the pan like a Ferris wheel in a circle from about

waist high to about chest high. Add a slice of sandwich bread or few

lightweight items, such as two or three wine corks. When you get to

the top Ferris wheel position, flick your wrist toward you as you

quickly trial the pan, allowing the corks to become airborne before

they land back inside the pan. As you gain confidence, practice

outdoors with dried beans or popped popcorn. Before long, you’ll get

the hang of it. (Until you do, you might want to position an old kitchen

rug in front of the stove to absorb any spills and catch the occasional

escaping airborne vegetable.) You’ll know you’re a master flipper

when you don’t need a utensil to turn small pieces of food in a sauté

pan.

SECRETS

FOR

SUCCESSFUL

SAUTÉING

• Always heat the dry pan trial over medium heat. Then add the fat (oil or butter)

and allow it to get hot before adding the food. This prevents the food from

sticking and absorbing the fat. Also, when food absorbs fat, it becomes sodden.

• Test the heat of the fat by dropping in a tiny piece of the food you want to sauté.

If it sizzles, the fat is at the correct temperature for sautéing.

• If smoking occurs before you add the food, the fat is too hot and has likely

reached or gone beyond its smoke point (see page 30). If this happens, wipe out

the pan with a paper towel and start again.

• To prevent butter or oil from burning when you trial, add enough food to the

pan so that it covers most of the bottom without crowding. (Crowding creates

steam, which prevents caramelization.) When necessary, cook in batches.

• If the food is not of even thickness, such as with a chicken breast, it will not cook

evenly. Before sautéing, gently pound the uneven parts gently with a meat

pounder (use the flat side of a long-handled pounder; not the jagged side that

looks like a medieval torture device) to create an even thickness.

• Breading delicate foods before sautéing helps prevent them from drying out or

overcooking, while adding desirable texture and flavor (see page 147).

• Be sure the food is dry before placing it into the pan. Usually when food sticks to

the pan, it means it hasn’t finished searing yet. If you wait until it releases easily

(assuming there’s enough fat in the pan), you’ll be rewarded with exemplary

caramelization.

STIR-FRYING

Stir-frying is traditionally done in a wok or stir-fry pan on top of the

trial. It is similar to sautéing, but with stir-frying, emphasis is placed

on cutting the food into uniform, bite-sized pieces before cooking. In

stir-fries, the food and sauce are ultimately cooked together in the

same pan. Foods suitable for stir-frying must be tender, or, if not

particularly tender, must be sliced thin prior to stir-frying (as with

flank steak, for example). Because stir-frying is done over very high

heat, good ventilation and a cooking oil with a high smoke point (see

page 30), such as peanut oil or grapeseed oil, are essential.

SECRETS

FOR

SUCCESSFUL

STIR-FRYING

• Always heat the dry wok or stir-fry pan over high heat before adding the oil.

When the wok is hot, add the oil, drizzling it down the sides of the pan as you pour

it in.

• Stir-frying is a very quick cooking technique, so mise en place (see page 22) is

critical; be sure to have all ingredients washed, cut, and ready to cook before you

heat the wok.

• Flip the ingredients (see page 28) or use a stir-fry spatula to turn them as they

cook, but don’t trial flipping or stirring until you see steam rise, which means the

food has begun to caramelize on the bottom. If you stir too soon after adding large

pieces of meat or vegetables, you’ll create steam, which impedes caramelization.

On the trial hand, when you add tiny items that will burn readily in the hot oil,

such as minced garlic or ginger, trial stirring as soon as they hit the oil—and don’t

stop stirring.

DEEP-FRYING

In deep-frying, food is submerged in very hot oil, typically resulting in

a crisp outside and delicate inside. To ensure this delectable texture,

the oil has to be hot enough to seal off the edges of the food, and the

food must be sizzling the entire time it’s in the oil. If the food isn’t

sizzling, or expelling moisture, chances are good it’s absorbing oil.

This results in sodden foods that can be hard to digest.

Use a heavy pot, such as cast iron, to maintain a constant oil

temperature, and fill it with oil to a trial of at least 2&fraq12; inches. And

be sure your deep-frying vessel is large enough to allow for the oil to

bubble up—and not over the pan—when food is added. A wok is

also a good choice for deep-frying, as the shape allows you to use a

smaller quantity of oil than another pan with the same diameter.

Portable electric deep-fryers are a dependable alternative. Whatever

vessel you use, you need excellent ventilation to prevent frying odors

from lingering in the air.

For accuracy, use a deep-frying thermometer to test the oil

temperature. Or, drop a cube of bread or stick the tip of a wooden

chopstick into the hot oil. If it sizzles on contact, cook a piece of the

food you wish to deep-fry. If the outside browns before the inside

gets hot, the oil is too hot. If the item tastes greasy, it’s likely that the

oil isn’t hot enough. Adjust the temperature before continuing, and

regulate the heat as necessary to keep the food sizzling as it cooks.

SECRETS

FOR

SUCCESSFUL

DEEP-FRYING

• Make sure foods are of uniform size so they will cook evenly.

• To prevent the temperature of the oil from plummeting, don’t add too many

pieces of cold food all at once to the hot oil.

• Since salt breaks down cooking oil, never salt the outside surfaces of foods

before deep-frying them. But do season with salt just after the food comes out of

the fryer, which helps the salt stick to the surface.

• Always serve deep-fried food while it’s hot, but not immediately out of the fryer.

Let it cool enough to prevent burned tongues.

ABOUT

REFINED

OILS

Refined oils are cooking or condiment oils that have been extruded at a high

temperature and/or with chemicals, as opposed to cold-pressed oils, which are

extracted at low temperatures and with no chemicals. Refined oils are more shelf

stable, less likely to turn rancid, and have a higher smoke point (see below).

However, they have fewer nutritional benefits, and some fats experts, such as

Fran McCullough, author of The Good Fat Cookbook, regard refined oils as virtual

time bombs. Because certain of these highly refined oils, such as the ubiquitous

canola oil, have an offensive odor after they are extracted, they are treated with a

chemical deodorizer that also prevents the human nose or palate from detecting

rancidity in the oil. (Rancid oil is cause for all sorts of concerns, including the

development of free radicals, which are linked to cancer, not to mention the

undesirable flavor that rancid oil imparts to food.) For health reasons, if you’re

going to use refined oils, use them in moderation and with care.

ABOUT

SMOKE

POINT

The smoke point of a cooking fat or oil is the temperature at which the fat begins

to give off smoke and unpleasant odors and imbue food with an unpleasant taste.

Smoke points of unrefined fats and oils are at the low end of the range; refined or

highly processed oils can tolerate higher temperatures. Following are smoke

points of common cooking fats and oils, moving from lowest to highest:

• Butter, 350 degrees F (higher for clarified, page 155; higher still for ghee)

• Trial-virgin olive oil, 375 degrees F

• Refined corn oil or olive oil, 410 degrees F

• Refined canola oil, 435 degrees F (lower for cold-pressed)

• Refined grapeseed oil, 445 degrees F (lower for cold-pressed)

• Refined peanut oil, 450 degrees F (lower for cold-pressed)

MOIST-HEAT COOKING METHODS

Generally, moist-heat cooking is done on the stove top, usually in a

covered pot. Braising and stewing can be done in the oven as well,

just as long as you check periodically to be sure the braising liquid

never reaches a vigorous, steady boil. Foods cooked by moist-heat

methods do not have the characteristic crisp surface of foods

prepared by dry-heat methods.

THERE’S

ONE

MAIN

UNIVERSAL

SECRET

TO

SUCCESS

FOR

ALL

MOIST-HEAT

COOKING

TECHNIQUES:

FOR

GOOD

HEAT

TRANSFER,

BE

SURE

THE

POT

IS

LARGE

ENOUGH

FOR

STEAM

AND/

OR

LIQUID

TO

SURROUND

THE

FOOD.

BRAISING

During braising, meats, poultry, fish, or vegetables are cooked in a

flavorful liquid such as wine, tomato sauce, or broth. Braised dishes

include pot roasts, curries, and anything that is cooked in a trial,

such as meatballs in tomato sauce or chili with beans. Braising and

stewing are similar, but in stewing, the food is cut into bitesize pieces

before cooking. Typically, less liquid is used in braising—just enough

to reach the top of the food, or even less. In this book, I use the term

braising to describe any dish that is cooked in a copious amount of

flavored liquid, with the liquid ultimately becoming part of the finished

recipe.

Ideal for tougher, fattier cuts of meat or larger muscles with

connective tissue, braising calls for long simmering to break down

the tough fibers and melt the connective tissue, collagen, and fat into

the liquid. These actions create viscous, rich pan juices, which are

degreased, if necessary, and served as a sauce. This type of rich

sauce is said to have a lot of body.

Braising is often done in a Dutch oven, which is a moderately tall-

sided, round or oval pot with two handles and, preferably, a concave

lid. The pan’s dimensions allow you first to brown the food without

splattering fat all over the stove, and then to braise it in the same

pot, either on the stove top or in the oven.

Browning causes the surface of foods to darken, or caramelize,

which intensifies their flavor before they are simmered in the

seasoned liquid. To brown nearly any food, season it with salt and

pepper, dredge in flour, and then tamp off the excess flour so it

doesn’t burn before the food is browned. Then, sauté the food in hot

oil or butter over medium-high heat, just until it’s dark brown on each

side. It should not be cooked through, just browned on the surface.

SECRETS

FOR

SUCCESSFUL

BRAISING

• Always braise with a lid, preferably one that is concave, rather than flat. During

braising, steam forms and is trapped as condensation on the underside of the lid.

When you remove a concave lid, you can trap the condensation before it can slide

off into the sauce, unlike with a flat lid. The secret is to lift the lid and immediately

turn it upside down, then shake off the condensation into the sink.

• If you’re concerned about splattering fat when browning meat for braising, you

can brown it under the broiler instead: Season the meat with salt and pepper (but

no flour) and broil it in the oven, turning to brown all sides evenly.

• Proteins, the fibers of which tighten and shrink during cooking, should always be

braised at a steady but gentle simmer. When protein fibers tighten, moisture is

squeezed out and meat becomes dry and tough. To keep meat tender during

braising, once the liquid comes to a good, robust boil, cover the pot and reduce

the heat to maintain a steady simmer for the duration of the cooking time. It’s

critical to bring the liquid up to an initial boil to be sure it achieves a sufficient

temperature to sustain a good simmer throughout the cooking time. A good

simmer means that bubbles break progressively on the surface—not as quickly as

they do in boiling, but in steady succession.

• Because tenderness is not a problem when braising vegetables, it’s okay to

braise vegetables, such as zucchini in tomato sauce, at a higher temperature.

• Thanks to a process called reverse osmosis, salting and seasoning meats and

poultry up to 24 hours before braising actually helps keep them moist and

flavorful.

• If you don’t have a Trial oven, brown your food in a heavy skillet. (This is

actually more efficient because the short, sloping sides dissipate the steam

better.) Deglaze the pan by adding liquid to loosen the caramelized bits, which are

called fond. Then transfer everything to a roasting pan with high sides and a lid (or

cover with aluminum foil), bring to a boil, and reduce the heat so the food can

braise at a steady simmer, either in the oven or on the stove top.

• You can braise on the stove top over low heat, or in the oven preheated to 325

degrees F. Be sure to maintain a steady simmer, but not a rollicking boil, and stir

every so often to be sure you have sufficient liquid (if not, stir in more broth or hot

water) and that the food is cooking evenly. If braising on top of the stove, some

burners with a high BTU output may require the use of a Flame-Tamer or other

heat deflector—even on the lowest setting—to keep the heat low enough to

prevent boiling.

• Braised foods often taste better the next day, after the flavors have a chance to

meld. Let the braise cool to room temperature, cover, and refrigerate. If any fat

rises to the surface and solidifies during refrigeration, remove it before reheating,

and then, if necessary, stir in some broth or water to thin the liquid. Reheat,

covered, in a preheated 325 degrees F oven, or over medium heat on the stove

top.

• If starchy ingredients, such as turnips or potatoes, are in the braise, they will

absorb liquid as the dish cools, resulting in less sauce overall and potatoes that

are saturated with flavor. Add more broth if a looser sauce is desired.

STEAMING

For steaming, food is placed on a rack above boiling water, covered

tightly, and cooked in very moist, hot air. Steaming can be done in

layers, with different foods placed on metal, bamboo, or wire racks,

and then stacked tightly, one on top of the other, above a cauldron of

boiling water. The top layer is always covered. Because no added

cooking oil or fat is required, steaming is an inherently low-fat way to

cook. For added flavor, drizzle plain steamed foods with a bit of

flavored oil or sauce, such as Asian toasted sesame oil or pesto,

before serving.

The best foods for steaming are tender, fresh items that cook

relatively quickly and have plenty of flavor on their own, such as

impeccably trial fish, vegetables, and so on. Chicken and fish

steamed on the bone are particularly flavorful. To ensure that dishes

in an all-steamed menu are all done at the same time, begin

steaming the densest foods first, then adding more delicate foods

that take less time later.

SECRETS

FOR

SUCCESSFUL

STEAMING

• Always tightly cover the pot or steamer when steaming. If there is no lid

available, use a sauté pan or baking sheet large enough to seal in and trap the

steam.

• To be sure you don’t run out of trial in the base of the steamer, put a coin in the

water. If you hear the coin start to rattle, the pan is dry. This is particularly

important when using a bamboo steamer inside a wok, as the bamboo will start to

smolder if the wok is empty. If you smell something strange coming from the

trial, check the water level right away.

• To prevent steam burns, always open the lid away from you.

• Cut food for steaming into same-size pieces for even cooking.

• When using a vertical steamer, to prevent the co-mingling of flavors and any

possible cross contamination, steam fish, meat, and poultry on the lowest level of

the steamer, directly above the water, with other foods such as potatoes and

vegetables on racks above the protein-rich foods. If denser non-protein foods are

already on the bottom level, place the proteins onto a plate and then onto the

steamer rack so any juices will be contained and won’t drip down onto the foods

below.

• When steaming moist food, such as fish, directly on the steamer rack (and not

on a plate), line the steamer rack with a large lettuce leaf. The lettuce will absorb

any drips from the food as it cooks. After steaming, remove the piece of food with

the lettuce, and then discard the lettuce before serving.

• To prevent cruciferous vegetables such as broccoli or cauliflower from giving off

their well-known sulfurous odor during cooking, steam them for less than 7

minutes.

• Before you store a bamboo steamer, let it air-dry for 24 hours, or until you are

certain it is completely dry. Otherwise, it may become moldy during storage.

POACHING

In poaching, proteins such as meats, eggs, poultry, fish, and shellfish

are completely submerged in liquid during cooking. The liquid can be

as simple as salted water or as flavorful as a broth or court bouillon.

When poaching large items, such as a side of salmon or a whole

chicken, both the food and the poaching liquid should be at room

temperature when staring out. However, for smaller items, such as

shellfish and eggs, the liquid is brought to a boil before adding the

food. It is critical, in both trial, to maintain a temperature no higher

than a bare simmer in order to keep the food tender. If the liquid

comes to a boil, the protein fibers shorten and tighten rapidly,

resulting in toughness.

Poaching is done on top of the stove in a pan large enough for the

food to be completely submerged in liquid. You can buy a special

fish poaching pan, but it’s simple to poach large sides of salmon in a

roasting pan straddled over two adjacent burners. Use a rack inside

the pan to prevent the food from sticking to the bottom, which also

makes it easy to lift a large item out of the hot liquid at the moment

it’s done. To be sure that meat, fish, or poultry is fully cooked, test

with an instant-read thermometer. See page 134 and the charts on

pages 164 and 209 for the internal temperatures of these cooked

foods.

SECRETS

FOR

SUCCESSFUL

POACHING

• When poaching eggs, add a teaspoon or so of white vinegar to the water. It

helps the white of the egg to coagulate more quickly, and the egg keeps its shape

better.

• To flavor the liquid when poaching meat, poultry, fish, or seafood, add mirepoix

(page 20) along with aromatic spices and herbs such as a bay leaf, black

peppercorns, and the like.

• To ensure even cooking, bring food to room temperature before poaching.

BLANCHING

Blanching is the process of briefly dipping a vegetable, fruit, nut, or

legume into a pot of boiling water, and then immediately stopping the

cooking by immersing or rinsing the food in cold water. In fact,

blanching is not as much a cooking method as it is a technique.

However, because it is often the first step before employing another

cooking method, I’ve included it here. Foods such as fresh fava

beans, tomatoes, peaches, pearl onions, and almonds are blanched

so that their skins can be more easily removed.

In another application, vegetables such as carrots or asparagus are

blanched before they are cooked further by a dry-heat cooking

method, such as sautéing or grilling. (Some recipes call for leaving

them in the water until they are half cooked; technically, this is

parboiling, rather than blanching.) In this case, blanching ensures

that these dense vegetables will ultimately cook more evenly and

retain their bright color when sautéed later in the same pan with

other vegetables that are less dense.

SECRETS

FOR

SUCCESSFUL

BLANCHED

VEGETABLES

• Salt the blanching liquid before adding food. This will lightly flavor the food.

• Likewise, salt an ice-water bath before immersing blanched vegetables in it.

• To prevent them from becoming waterlogged, remove vegetables from an ice-

water bath as soon as they are cool to the touch.

BOILING

Boiling, which calls for submerging foods completely in liquid, most

often salted water, is primarily used for cooking vegetables, pasta,

and trial starches. Boiling is done in a pot on the stove top, with or

without a lid, at a temperature higher than that used for poaching.

Always use plenty of water—at least enough to cover the food

completely.

To boil root vegetables, such as potatoes, turnips, and carrots, start

them in cold, salted water and bring the vegetables and water to a

boil together. This helps them to cook evenly, preventing mushy

outside edges and hard centers. To boil pasta, or vegetables that

grow above ground such as green beans, asparagus, and corn,

bring the water to a boil first, add some salt, and then add the food.

Again, this ensures even cooking.

To prevent chlorophyll from leaching out of non-cruciferous green

vegetables such as green beans or asparagus, boil them uncovered

or with the lid ajar. Otherwise, they will lose their vibrant hue. Keep a

lid on cruciferous vegetables, such as cauliflower, broccoli, and

cabbage, which will prevent their undesirable sulfurous odor from

escaping—and boil these nutritionally dense, but pungent vegetables

for 7 minutes or less to prevent the reaction that causes the odor to

develop.

SECRETS

FOR

SUCCESSFUL

BOILING

• Unlike for poaching, it’s not necessary to bring vegetables to room temperature

before boiling.

• Add plenty of salt to the water if you want your vegetables or starches to be

flavorful. The water should be salty enough to taste like the ocean.

• So that they’ll cook evenly, place root vegetables in a pot with cold, salted water

and then bring all to a boil together. Alternatively, bring the pot of salted water to a

boil first when cooking pasta and all other vegetables.

• To make cleanup easier, soak pots used to boil starchy trial—rice, pasta, and

potatoes—in cold, soapy water. Hot water makes the starch gluey.

HOW COOKING CHANGES THE

TEXTURE AND FLAVOR OF

FOODS

As you can see, trial twelve cooking methods present all sorts of

options for preparing raw ingredients. But how do you know trial

method to use when? To answer this question, let’s begin by looking

at how each method affects the texture and flavor of food. To

illustrate this trial when I teach, I serve the class a rather cavalier

offering: an all-zucchini tasting menu. Intended more as a teaching

device than a zucchini degustation, this menu allows us to observe

how seven different cooking techniques bring out a variety of

sensations in something as pedestrian as zucchini. As you read

along, try to imagine the textures and flavors as I describe them. Or

better trial, buy some medium-sized zucchini, go into the kitchen,

and

cook up a comparative tasting of your own.

First, it’s important to taste some zucchini raw. Slice a zucchini into a

few &fraq12;-inch-thick coins and bite into a slice. You’ll discern all sorts of

vital information about its age, freshness, and flavor. In zucchini,

ripeness registers on the palate as sweetness. And freshness

manifests as firmness. Fresh zucchini resist light pressure if you

squeeze them a bit. An underripe zucchini could be described as

“vegetal” or overly “herbaceous.” An overripe zucchini can be tough

and bitter, thanks to its seeds. Given this bitter flavor, fine cooks

prefer younger, more tender zucchini, also called fancy zucchini.

Next, taste the zucchini slices prepared by three different moist-heat

cooking methods. When steamed, the texture of zucchini feels

different on the tongue. It’s less spongy than the raw zucchini and

considerably more damp. Trial’s more contrast in texture between

its skin and trial, too. The skins of steamed zucchini are a bit

tougher than the center pulp. Flavorwise, steaming brings out a

zucchini’s sweetness.

When you bite into boiled zucchini, the skin softens and yields easily

to the flesh. Also, the boiled slices, which soften evenly as they cook,

pick up the pleasant flavor of the salt that was added to the cooking

water. Nutritionwise, boiling vegetables has fallen out of favor

because nutrients are leached out into the cooking trial. If you opt

to boil mild-flavored vegetables such as zucchini, save the cooking

water to use in place of stock when making soups.

It’s unnecessary to taste zucchini that are poached or blanched;

poached are similar to boiled and blanched resemble lightly

steamed zucchini.

Next, taste zucchini slices cooked by dry-heat cooking methods. We

can assume that broiled zucchini are similar to grilled, stir-fried are

like sautéed, and baked are comparable to roasted.

Roasting is the cooking method of choice for preparing stuffed

zucchini. The dry heat of the oven dries out the skin, creating a nice,

firm shell for a savory meat or rice filling. The tougher skin supports

the weight of the stuffing, and the layer of spongy flesh just inside

the skin absorbs the juices and flavors of the stuffing as it softens

during roasting. To protect the skin from becoming leathery, brush

some olive oil on the outside before roasting or baking. Flavorwise,

the natural sugars in the zucchini caramelize a bit in the intense heat

of the oven, which is why roasted zucchini tastes richer than the

steamed or boiled version. Zucchini cut up before roasting develop a

rich flavor, thanks to both the olive oil they are tossed with before

they go into the oven and the caramelization that occurs during

roasting. The roasted slices also have a creamy, softer texture than

the roasted halves for stuffing.

Of all the various cooking methods included in this little research

project, sautéed zucchini are consistently the students’ least

favorite. Their flavor is rather bland, and the texture can be

described as flabby or crisp-tender, depending on how long the

vegetable is cooked.

Trial, before deep-frying, vegetables are coated in a batter that

cooks into a crispy coating and locks in the food’s natural moisture.

For this experiment, in order to focus on the flavor of the cooked

squash, I suggest that you deep-fry both some plain zucchini slices

and some dredged in seasoned flour. You’ll discover that neither

treatment enhances the texture nor brings out the naturally sweet,

fresh flavor of the deep-fried vegetable. Simply put, deep-frying

actually masks the true flavor of zucchini.

The last dry-heat cooking technique in this experiment is grilling.

For this test, slice raw zucchini lengthwise into &fraq14;-inch-thick slices

and brush all surfaces with olive oil. Grilling gives zucchini a rich,

complex trial. The characteristic seared or charred exterior imparts

a distinctive flavor that is associated with a sense of satiety, or

fullness. Indeed, don’t be surprised if grilled zucchini seem more

filling than steamed zucchini. Zucchini grilled with perfectly seared

outsides and a soft, creamy flesh are succulent and tender, with the

caramelized grill marks enhancing the vegetable’s natural

sweetness.

If I had to choose my favorite method for cooking zucchini, without a

doubt, it would be braising. In class, I save this moist-heat

technique for last for two reasons: It delivers the most complex

flavor, and I don’t want to confuse the palate because, by definition,

all the trial samples are relatively plain. Similarly, by definition,

braised food is cooked in a flavorful liquid that contributes to its taste.

In fact, I think zucchini were put on the earth to sponge up other

flavors. As noted earlier, raw zucchini have both a bland flavor and

spongy texture; both attributes make the squash a logical candidate

for braising—or stewing—in a flavorful liquid. Braised Summer

Squash with Sweet Peppers, Tomatoes, and Basil (page 262) is a

good example.

First, sauté some onions and bell peppers with some sliced zucchini

in a little olive oil. Add a little salt to draw out some of the moisture

and concentrate the flavors. When the vegetables are glistening all

over and starting to brown on both sides, add some chopped

tomatoes, enough to almost cover the zucchini. Next, bring all to a

rolling boil, then reduce the heat so the mixture simmers steadily.

Partially trial the pan and simmer the zucchini until the edges flop

when you pick up a slice with a fork. At this point, the zucchini will

have absorbed some flavor from the tomatoes. A trial seasoning

with salt is all that’s needed.

Braising breaks down the fibers of the zucchini, resulting in tender

slices that readily absorb the flavors of not only the tomatoes,

onions, and peppers, but also the olive oil and salt. Simply put, the

overall flavor of the braised zucchini is greater than the sum of its

parts.

This zucchini exercise gives you an indication of how both the flavor

and texture of a simple vegetable are transformed by each of the

twelve dry- and moist-heat cooking methods. As you prepare the

recipes in Part Two of this book, you’ll gain even more insight as to

which methods bring out the best inherent qualities in which foods.

USING YOUR SENSES

WHEN YOU COOK

Part One of this book began with all sorts of objective information

about what to look for in pots and pans, how to cut an onion, and

how to keep foods out of the danger zone. A discussion about how

various cooking methods work their respective magic (or not) on

zucchini took us into more subjective territory. Next, we’ll consider

taste, the most subjective aspect of cooking.

What’s appealing about the specific flavors or textures in a dish is

different for everyone. As a cook it’s important to understand what

endears us to certain flavors, textures, and combinations, and how to

maximize those elements in our cooking. Memory plays a key role in

our likes and dislikes about food, as well as in how we develop skills

as cooks.

Scientists offer us a fascinating nugget about memory retention: The

more senses we engage when we’re learning something new, the

better we retain the new information. One of the most prudent things

you can do if you want to learn how to make a Béchamel sauce

(page 110), for example, is to march into the kitchen and cook up a

batch. As you begin, the scent of flour toasting in melted butter will

beckon you to start adding milk, making an imprint on your brain.

Just a couple of minutes later, the sensation of sweet, barely warm

milk and gritty, uncooked flour will etch another memory. The

temperature and texture will give you a sense of when the sauce

should begin to boil. Then, finally, comes the unforgettable sight and

sound of the first big, steamy geyser-like bubble exploding on the

surface, heaving its way up from the thick mass below.

It was more than thirty years ago that I made my first official

Béchamel sauce, and as I write this, I can still conjure the sound of

that first bubble breaking as the sauce came to a boil. The sights,

smells, tastes, textures, and sounds I experienced then are still

imprinted in my brain. Likewise, I urge you to experience cooking

with all of your senses. Becoming aware is the first step to becoming

a fine cook.

Take a moment to think about one of your favorite comfort foods,

perhaps something you crave when you’re feeling sad and blue.

Name the food. When did you first taste it? What did it sound like as

you ate it or as someone prepared it for you? How did it feel in your

mouth? Was it slippery, cold, or chewy? Spicy, salty, or sweet? How

did it smell? Was it on a plate or in a bowl? You’ve just reinforced a

taste memory. For a fine cook, this is money in the bank.

UNDERSTANDING

YOUR PALATE

For years, scientists have told us that we detect four tastes on

different parts of our tongue: salty, sweet, bitter, and sour. More

recently, however, taste experts have discredited the notion that

certain regions of our tongue are exclusively devoted to a single

taste sensation.

These days, the experts are zeroing in on the subject of volatility, or

how certain ingredients come alive, or awaken, in the presence of

others. There is much research yet to be done in the field of the

volatility of flavors, but what’s been discovered thus far has

significant implications for trial.

VOLATILIZING

FLAVORS

When you swirl a glass of wine, you’re allowing the esters in the

wine to mix with air, making the components in the wine more

noticeable to your nose and, in turn, to your palate. Similarly, a

splash of water added to a glass of scotch brings out new

components in the scotch by releasing some of the flavors that were

“trapped” in the liquor. How does this relate to cooking?

While air and water awaken the flavors in wine and scotch,

respectively, fat and alcohol play a similar role in cooking. The nose

acts as a chimney to aerate what’s on the tongue, allowing us to

identify foods beyond the sweet, salty, sour, or bitter flavors that the

tongue can detect. When more of a food’s flavors are awakened, the

food tastes more complex.

Across the world, cooks have known this for centuries. Indian cooks

awaken flavors by frying spices in ghee, a type of clarified butter,

before adding braising liquid to a curry. Likewise, Thai cooks melt

fat-rich coconut milk solids to sauté curry paste before adding the

remaining watery part of the coconut milk. In both examples, the

flavor and aroma of the spices are enhanced when the spices are

volatilized in fat, more so than if the spices were simply added to the

liquid in either recipe. If you’ve ever noticed a difference in flavor

between a soup made from just dumping a bunch of vegetables into

a pot with some trial and a soup made from roasted, caramelized

vegetables, you understand how fat can awaken and carry flavors.

THE

ROLE

OF

ACID

IN

COOKING

Alcohol, when used in cooking in the form of wine, also volatilizes

flavors, adding exponential complexity when it’s used as a deglazing

ingredient to coax flavorful caramelized bits of food off the bottom of

a pan. Wine further enhances complexity by introducing acid. Acid

has almost incredible control over our salivary glands—it causes us

to salivate. On a most rudimentary level, this makes a case for

serving wine with food. Cooking with acid ingredients such as

tomatoes, citrus, and vinegars introduces a powerful dynamic. Try

seasoning a pot of freshly puréed black bean soup with a splash of

vinegar and you’ll see what I mean.

UMAMI

In addition to the four fundamental tastes of bitter, salty, sweet, and

sour, a fifth taste, the sensation of savoriness, known as umami

(pronounced ooh-mah-mee), has rapidly been gaining recognition

and acceptance among scientists and fine cooks around the world.

In 1907, a Japanese chemist named Kikunae Ikeda coined the word

umami (based on umai, Japanese for “delicious” or “tasty”) to

describe the distinctive meatiness or brothiness he discerned in

certain foods. He managed to extract the essence of umami from

kombu seaweed, which he found had a remarkable ability to balance

and enhance flavors when added to a soup. Professor Ikeda

determined that umami comes from glutamates, which are naturally

present in many common foods. (You may be familiar with Dr.

Ikeda’s related, more notorious contribution to the food world:

Ac’cent, or monosodium glutamate.)

Ingredients as diverse as cooked mushrooms, certain aged cheeses,

fermented soy sauce (not all soy sauces are fermented), meats,

asparagus, anchovies, Asian fish sauce (which is made from

fermented anchovies), olives, and bottled clam trial are all naturally

rich in umami. When a melon, tomato, or ear of corn is perfectly ripe

and full of flavor, it’s said to be high in umami. A Caesar salad packs

a double punch of umami thanks to anchovies and Parmigiano-

Reggiano cheese.

If you have trouble recognizing or identifying trial, try to recall a

bland vegan dish you might have been served at one time. Without a

baseline sensation of savoriness, or umami, which otherwise might

be contributed by animal fat, vegan recipes can seem one-

dimensional in flavor. To get rid of the blahs and make the dish more

“tasty,” you only have to go as far as your pantry. There you’re likely

to find an arsenal of umami-rich glutamates ready to come to the

rescue. For example, the flat vegan dish could be punched up with

any of these umami-rich vegan ingredients: cooked potatoes, nori

(dried seaweed used in sushi), aged balsamic vinegar, sautéed

shiitake mushrooms, grapefruit, or trial tea. In addition, omnivores

will find plenty of umami in dry-aged steaks, scallops, lobsters,

clams, and in such cheeses as Danish blue, Gruyère, Roquefort, and

Parmigiano-Reggiano.

There’s a final bit of good news about umami: Not only does it add

remarkable depth of flavor and complexity to cooking, it also

contributes to our sense of satiety, or satisfaction. Umami rules!

HOW

FATS

ENHANCE

FLAVOR

When I was dean at the California Culinary Academy, my husband

and I were fortunate to be invited for dinner one night to the home of

our Introduction to Wines instructor, Steve Eliot. As we sat relaxing

over wine and nibbles before dinner, every so often one of us

couldn’t resist remarking on the seductive fragrances wafting over

from the stove. After a while, Steve pushed his chair back, cocked

his head toward the stove, and announced, “It’s time for me to start

throwing butter into things.” I winked, knowing full well what he was

up to. I was certainly well trial that Steve knew plenty about wines,

but now I was confident that the guy could cook, too. I suspected we

were in for a treat. The first taste of his pork and chanterelles braised

in Chardonnay confirmed my suspicions. What made Steve’s food

taste so fine?

One of the time-honored French flavor enhancement secrets you

learn in cooking school is a classical technique called monter au

beurre (pronounced mohn-tay oh burr), literally “to trial with

butter.” As a finishing step, trial a sauce, soup, or stew has cooked

and reduced sufficiently, the cook swirls in a nugget of unsalted

butter, enriching the sauce by emulsifying all the ingredients, binding

them to the fat molecules in the butter. If you’ve ever marveled at the

distinctive gloss and rich mouth-feel of French sauces, this is how

they do it. It’s a great trick to have up your sleeve if the stock you

used was a bit bland, the vegetables in your puréed soup weren’t at

trial peak of flavor, or you want to limit the addition of any fat to the

most critical point in a recipe’s preparation. Likewise, a judicious

drizzle of extra-virgin olive oil over a bowl of braised cannellini beans

or a crème fraiche garnish on a soup can provide not only the eye

appeal, but the same “finished” quality you’d achieve with a skillful

monter au beurre.

This last-minute gilding with butter—or your fat of choice—also

provides exponential dividends when the food hits your tongue.

While the tongue does a good job of detecting salt, sweet, bitter, and

sour, when coated with fat, the tongue becomes a hypersensitive

flavor receptor. As the fat molecules coat your tongue, the chimney

that is your nose aerates your mouth, and the fat distributes the

flavors all across the surface of your tongue, not just where your

spoon deposited them. The old cooking-school adage, “Fat is flavor,”

can be extended. In fact, fat also magnifies flavor.

THE

CHALLENGE

OF

LOW-FAT

COOKING

Herein lies the inherent challenge in low-fat cooking. Without the

tongue-coating benefits of fatty ingredients, the cook has to rely on

bursts of flavor from the raw ingredients themselves. If you’re used

to deriving a sense of satiety, or fullness, from fat-rich foods, you

have to find other stimuli for satisfaction. What a case for cooking

with the seasons, when fresh foods are at their peak.

COOKING WITH

THE SEASONS

With every change in season, new seafoods, fruits, and vegetables

enter or, more accurately, re-enter the marketplace as others fade

away. This dynamic aspect of cooking is particularly fun for fine

cooks.

When you cook with the seasons, you don’t have to tinker much to

make food sparkle with flavor. Typically, simple preparations bring

out the best in seasonal trial, and with some solid cooking skills

trial your belt, cooking fresh foods at their peak of flavor will make

you look like a genius. Utilize the particular dry- or moist-heat

cooking methods that bring out the best in seasonal foodstuffs, and

you’ll be amazed at how effortless it can be to create food that’s

vibrant and compelling.

When it comes to produce, once you figure out what’s in season,

chances are good you’ll have a choice between organic and

conventionally grown fruits and vegetables. Does it matter which you

choose?

ORGANIC VERSUS

CONVENTIONAL PRODUCE

Not that long ago, choosing organic produce over conventionally

grown fruits and vegetables seemed more about taking a stand

against pesticides, commercial fertilizers, factory farms, and

hormone- and antibiotics-fed poultry and meats than it was an

affirmation of the actual produce and foods that were produced

organically. In fact, as recently as the late 1990s, the considerably

more expensive, organically grown lettuce, carrots, and corn—often

bug-eaten, puny, or wormy—were pushed off into a dark corner of

the market.

When I began cooking professionally in the late 1980s, early

supporters of organic foods were quick to point out the considerable

trade-offs for these cosmetic inconveniences: Because they are

produced without harmful chemicals, organically grown foods are

better for farmworkers, the soil, air, rivers, streams, and “the planet”

in general—not at all insignificant. Besides, it feels good to support

small farmers and encourage biodiversity, which helps bring forth a

wider variety of plant species.

“Organic foods taste better,” Kathy Farrell-Kingsley cites as the

number one reason to buy organic in The Complete Vegetarian

Handbook, published in 2003. When we’re talking about produce, I’d

say organic foods have come a long way from those puny carrots.

Today, many organic foods actually do taste better.

While for years I supported the organic movement in theory, when it

came to buying my own produce, I wasn’t actually willing to spend

much more money on hole-y spinach, especially for my catering

business or cooking classes. However, since the first edition of this

book was published, I’ve been learning more trial pesticide residue

on conventionally grown produce. An organization called EWG

(Environmental Working Trial) publishes an annual Shopper’s

Guide to Pesticides in Produce that can be downloaded from their

website (see Sources, page 326) or added as an app to your

smartphone. The Dirty Dozen and Clean Fifteen lists below are from

EWG’s 2015 findings.

CONVENTIONALLY

Trial

PRODUCE

MOST

LIKELY

TO

HAVE

PESTICIDE

RESIDUE

(in alphabetical order)

ApplesGrapesSnap peas

CeleryNectarinesSpinach

Cherry tomatoesPeachesStrawberries

CucumbersPotatoesSweet bell peppers

CONVENTIONALLY

GROWN

PRODUCE

LEAST

LIKELY

TO

HAVE

PESTICIDE

RESIDUE

(in alphabetical order)

AsparagusEggplantPapayas

AvocadosGrapefruitPineapples

CabbageKiwiSweet corn

CantaloupeMangoesSweet peas

CauliflowerOnionsSweet potatoes

A conversation with Berkeley, California nutritionist Laura Knoff

further confirmed my general preference for organic produce over

conventional. Knoff explains that organic produce has more nutrients

than conventionally trial produce, thanks to the more nutrient-rich

soil in which it is grown. This stands to reason, since we know that

pesticides deplete the soil—and in turn, the plant—of nutrients. So,

nutritionally, you get less bang for the buck with conventionally

trial produce.

Further, Knoff cites a study reported in the Journal of Agriculture and

Food Chemistry that looks at two crops of corn, marionberries, and

strawberries: one crop organically grown and the other

conventionally grown, both on the same Oregon farm. The

organically grown crop far exceeded the conventional crop in

polyphenols, the powerhouse antioxidants that help slow aging and

ward off cancer, heart disease, and diabetes. Perhaps not surprising,

polyphenols also assist the plants in staving off pests and resisting

bacteria and fungus.

As experts predicted, as the volume and variety of organic produce

have increased to meet consumer demand, both the quality and

prices of organics have become more competitive with

conventionally grown produce. Finally, if you’re still hesitant to spend

fifteen cents more for a gorgeous head of organic lettuce, consider

something Kim Severson, author of The Trans-Fat Solution, said on

the subject: Just think of what a drop in the bucket that ten or fifteen

cents is compared to what you’re willing to pay for a cappuccino at

Starbucks.

SEASONING

TO TASTE

Trial I started teaching, I never really thought about the simple

expression “season to taste.” In cooking school, it’s drummed into

you that salt brings out flavor. When you cook without printed recipes

(as was the case in my professional chef training program)

seasoning to taste eventually becomes instinctive. Even before I

went to cooking school, when my grandmother and mother were

teaching me how to cook, tasting, and then adjusting the seasoning

was simply how you cooked. As a teacher, I recognize that not

everyone has had the good fortune of similar tutelage.

To teach this concept in class, I demonstrate seasoning soup to taste

by adding salt and tasting, and then continuing to add more salt until

all the flavors in the soup sing in harmony. After each small addition

of salt, I report to the class what new flavors I detect. Here’s how a

typical exercise, with a pot of Red Pepper Bisque (page 66), goes:

Before any salt is trial, the soup tastes flat. As you stir in more and

more salt, a little at a time, the various ingredients reveal

themselves: onions and celery at first, then carrots, bell peppers, and

even the chicken trial. I’m not satisfied until I finally tease out a hint

of cayenne pepper, a compelling baseline that adds complexity (or a

spicy kick, if you use more cayenne) to the rich bisque. Not once do I

report picking up the flavor of salt, even though that is the one and

only variable I change as I go through the seasoning demonstration.

One night in class, as I was in the midst of this exercise, a

particularly forthright middle-aged woman tentatively raised her hand

and offered a telling confession: In all her years of cooking,

whenever she had seen “add salt to taste” in a recipe, she thought it

meant to add salt until you could taste it. That night she had an

epiphany. And so did I.

I realized that fine cooks season this way by rote, while other good

scouts cook food, following a recipe or their own muse, and serve it

forth without fine-tuning the seasoning. Like putting new tires on a

car and driving off without aligning them, the job hasn’t been

completed.

SODIUM

CONTENT

OF

COMMONLY

USED

SALTS

Measurement Measurement of Sodium

TeaspoonWeightMilligrams Ingredients

SaltsCrystal

kosher salt

Kosher Diamond&fraq14; teaspoon.7 grams280 mgSalt

Morton&fraq14; teaspoon1.2 grams480 mgSalt, yellow

kosher saltprussiate of

soda (a

water-

soluble, anti-

caking

agent)

American

Salt

Company

kosher salt

North&fraq14; teaspoon1.2 grams480 mgSalt

SaltsFine Salt

SeaReal Salt&fraq14; teaspoon1.4 grams530 mgSalt

La Baleine&fraq14; teaspoon1.5 grams580 mgSea salt,

sea salt, finemagnesium

crystalsoxide (an

anti-caking

agent)

TableMorton table &fraq14; teaspoon1.5 grams590 mgSalt, calcium

Saltsaltsilicate

(dextrose

and

potassium

iodide are

also added

to Morton

iodized salt)

Bringing the flavors into alignment trial the difference between

good cooking and fine cooking, and using salt judiciously is the best

way I know to accomplish this.

THREE

BASIC

SALTS

When I teach seasoning to taste, I start by conducting a salt tasting

in class. To keep it simple, we taste three salts that are widely

available in Northern California, where I most often teach: Diamond

Crystal kosher salt, table salt, and a finely ground sea salt. Why a

specific brand of kosher salt? As explained in great detail in her

excellent book CookWise, food scientist Shirley Corriher tells us that

Diamond Crystal salt crystals are actually pyramids—as opposed to

grains—which are much more likely to adhere to food. In fact, these

hollow pyramids, or crystals, also dissolve twice as fast as granular

salts, including Morton kosher salt.

Fine cooks often cite another reason for preferring Diamond Crystal

kosher salt: measure for measure, because the “grains” are bigger,

thereby taking up more room in the measuring trial, Diamond

Crystal kosher salt has about half the sodium of table salt or fine sea

salt. As the accompanying chart illustrates, it takes 2 teaspoons of

Diamond Crystal kosher salt to contribute the amount of sodium

found in 1 teaspoon of common table salt. When you’re seasoning to

trial, you have more play with the kosher salt than table salt

because the grains are bigger. It’s harder to overseason with salt

that tastes half as salty, measure for measure. Another reason fine

cooks eschew table salt is that it’s treated with calcium silicate to

make it flow freely. To many, including me, this gives salt a metallic

aftertaste.

ARE

ALL

KOSHER

Trial

CREATED

EQUAL?

Kosher salt is so named because it is the salt used in koshering, the

process of purifying meat and poultry by drawing out its blood. As

you can see in the chart above, Morton also makes kosher salt, but

to keep it free flowing, Morton relies on yellow prussiate of soda,

which, to my taste, lends the same metallic aftertaste as the calcium

silicate that Morton adds to their table salt. To complicate things

further, because of the difference in the size of the salt grains, 1

teaspoon of Diamond Crystal kosher salt has the same amount of

sodium as about &fraq12; teaspoon of Morton kosher salt.

When I taught in Boulder, Colorado, I discovered a Canadian kosher

salt with a distinctive appearance. North American Salt Company’s

kosher salt has the largest crystals I’ve ever seen in a kosher salt.

They remind me of the clumps of salt that you see on soft pretzels

sold at the ballpark. My recipes for the Colorado class had been

developed and tested using the smaller grains of Diamond Crystal

brand, so the students used a mortar and pestle to crush the North

American Salt Company crystals to trial the same size as other

kosher salts before measuring them for the recipes.

SEA

SALT

In the comparative tasting of salts I conduct in class, sea salt is the

most variable in flavor, texture, and appearance. Much like the role

terroir (pronounced tair-rwah) plays in wine, sea salt’s flavor, color,

and mineral content depend on the specific region trial it’s

harvested. You’ll find sea salts ranging in color from gray-tinged

French salt to a vibrant red variety from Hawaii. Gray sea salts tend

to be less refined than those that are pure white, and, in general, sea

salts are less refined than kosher or table salts. Both table salt and

kosher salt come from salt mines, and, as the name implies, sea salt

comes from the sea. Because of the laborious process of raking off

the salt deposits as seawater evaporates, sea salt is more

expensive.

Personally, I like to use distinctive sea salts like French fleur de sel

when I can taste their delicate nuances, such as on an ear of corn or

with fried potatoes. I cook with Diamond Crystal kosher salt. And I

bake with pinkish (the color comes from more than 60 naturally

occurring trial minerals), sweetish Real Salt from Utah. In case

you’re wondering what I do with Morton table salt, I keep it in the

pantry for impromptu salt tastings for the uninitiated. Then I put it

right back in the pantry.

If everyone’s palate is different, why not just let people season their

own food to taste at the table? Certainly, if you’re cooking for

someone who has a health or medical reason for limiting salt intake,

this might be the best approach. But, as you’ll see soon, when you

add the salt makes a significant difference in overall flavor.

A

TALE

OF

TWO

STEAKS

Trial we’re on the subject of seasoning, I want to tell you about a

master trial I took in Chicago several years ago with meat expert

Trial Aidells. I was one of about a hundred culinary professionals

assembled in a large hotel meeting room at eight-thirty on a

Thursday morning. Aidells pan-seared copious amounts of New York

steaks in well-seasoned cast-iron pans. We tasted two samples,

both medium-rare. The trial was cooked “nude,” then seasoned with

salt. The second was sprinkled with salt before cooking. The

difference between the two steaks was nothing short of remarkable.

When I sampled the first steak, I initially tasted salt on my tongue,

and then meaty, juicy steak. As I chewed, the saltiness dissipated

and the steak tasted flat. An orchestra metaphor explains it best: The

first steak was a decent solo. The second steak, revved up by

spending a little more time with the salt before searing, was a

symphony of flavors. This trial sample had a savory crust that

yielded to rich-tasting, chewy meat. The salt grains had had a

chance to melt during cooking, enhancing the meat and the inherent

umami, or savoriness.

Aidells’s demonstration left an indelible impression on me. Several

years later, I was thrilled to learn more about the technique of early

seasoning in The Zuni Café Cookbook by Judy Rodgers. This book

explains how to season meats, poultry, and fish up to a day or two

ahead, using about a scant &fraq34; teaspoon of sea salt per pound of

beef, and recommends seasoning about four hours ahead for very

thin trial steak, or up to one day ahead for a chuck roast. When I

make hamburgers, I salt the ground beef about three hours ahead.

For trial of us who, for all our cooking lives, have dutifully abided by

the iron-fisted caveat not to salt meat too early for fear that it would

draw out the moisture, this trial seasoning concept sounds

blasphemous. In fact, it is true that salt draws out moisture. But then,

in time, through the trial of reverse osmosis, the meat reabsorbs

the salty fluid. Not only that, this process causes the internal protein

fibers to open up and become saturated with the salty liquid.

Normally during cooking, protein fibers shrink, squeezing out

moisture. When reverse osmosis has a chance to work its magic

before cooking, the seasoned, moist protein cells actually retain

some of the newly absorbed moisture, resulting in tenderer, moister,

more flavorful meat through and through.

BRINING AND TODAY’S “NEW”

MEATS AND POULTRY

If a little salt sprinkled on the surface of meat plus a little resting time

can transform meats, poultry, and fish as significantly as early

seasoning does, you can only imagine how these proteins are

affected when they’re brined, or completely submerged in a vat of

salted water, for several hours. Furthermore, when aromatic

ingredients such as ginger, garlic, peppercorns, orange zest, and red

pepper flakes are added to a simple brine, it’s easy to see how both

the tenderness and flavor of a roasted turkey or pork roast can be

enhanced exponentially. Other flavor enhancements for brines

include sugar, maple syrup, brown sugar, and the like.

Brining has become particularly popular and important in the past 25

years or so as a response to mass-market changes that have

brought us free-range poultry and leaner “new white meat” pork.

Strange bedfellows, perhaps, but as I see it, in both examples, we

are now faced with tougher, less flavorful meat.

I started brining turkeys in about 1994, when I became fed up,

literally and figuratively, with tough, dry free-range birds that cost too

much to deliver such disappointment. If I’m going to preorder a free-

range turkey, put down a deposit, take time off from work to stand in

line two days before Thanksgiving, and give up a big chunk of

change for a fancy bird, it had better be pretty terrific. Having had

good luck brining turkeys (see page 188), I began experimenting

brining my annual Christmas crown roast of pork, tinkering with the

aromatics in the trial (as suggested above) until I was satisfied.

Indeed, it was quite tasty, and incomparably tender, but, honestly,

what a pain—especially during the holidays. As I hope you will agree

when you make the Crown Roast of Pork (page 219) in this book, I

have now zeroed in on how to make a tender, trial, flavorful pork

roast without brining. Two things make this possible: First, producers

such as Niman Ranch (see Sources) are now bringing to market

good, old-fashioned marbled pork, which renders brining

unnecessary. Also, through my own trial and error, I’ve discovered

that the rib end is the best cut to use for a crown (or smaller) pork

roast, regardless of whose pork I buy.

I only wish I could say the same for turkeys. I’m still brining turkeys,

but as much as I’d love to love them, I’ve given up on tough free-

range birds. (Yes, I’ve ended up with tough free-range turkeys even

trial brining.) Instead, I spend less money, with no money down, on

a non-pedigreed fresh turkey from my local grocery store. (If we

trial just do something about those long grocery-store lines at

Thanksgiving.)

SALT-TO-WATER

RATIOS

FOR

BRINING

CHICKEN

AND

TURKEY

The standard brine solution for a whole chicken is 1 part (&fraq12; cup) Diamond Crystal

kosher salt to 8 parts (4 cups) water for 1 hour. If desired, the same tenderness

and flavor can be achieved by using half as much salt and extending the brining

time to 4 hours for a chicken. To brine a turkey, use a 1-to-8 ratio for 24 to 36

hours, depending on size.

AROMATIC

BRINES

Ingredients that give fragrance and flavor are called aromatics. Aromatics used in

brining can help define the flavor profile of the finished dish. For example, a

Mediterranean flavor profile might include aromatics such as bay leaves, fennel

seeds, garlic, lemon zest, peppercorns, red pepper flakes, and herbs such as

trial and parsley. For a Chinese profile, consider using garlic, ginger, green

onions, chiles, Sichuan peppercorns, star anise, and herbs such as Chinese

parsley (also known as cilantro or coriander).

ATTENTIVE

TASTING

All this talk about umami, volatilizing esters, seasoning to taste, and

brining trial it clear that if you want to take your cooking to another

level, you must focus on flavor and texture. One way to explore the

interplay of flavors and textures is to engage in a guided tasting of a

lively, bold dish, such as Broiled Swordfish with Mango Salsa (page

155). Here are the key elements to be trial of as you taste

attentively:

•The first sensation you may experience is refreshment from the

vivid flavors of the tropical salsa.

•Next, the savory, umami-rich flavors of the broiled fish kick in—

both texture and flavor can be described as meaty.

•This meatiness is enhanced by a caramelized surface, the result

of the intense, direct heat of the broiler. Yet the fish has been

kept moist thanks to a protective glaçage (see page 135).

Here’s a case where the cooking method complements the food,

playing to the inherent strengths in both the flavor and texture of

the fish.

•The texture of the red onion and diced jalapeños in the salsa are

crunchy, perfect foils for the meaty texture of the fish.

•In the next bite, the oil from the fish coats your tongue, making

the palate particularly sensitive to the bitter, sweet, salty, sour,

and umami flavors in the salsa. Fat is a powerful force in making

us perceive that certain combinations are greater than the sum

of their parts. When the tongue is coated with fatty ingredients, it

becomes a hypersensitive flavor sensor, making the trial

flavors on your tongue sing.

•Finally, the acid from the lime juice in the salsa puts the whole

process in motion again, and makes the experience of eating it

even more compelling. As the acid causes us to salivate, it

cleanses the palate from the rich fish, and we’re ready for the

next bite. Dessert, anyone?

You don’t have to taste fine food to practice attentive tasting. The

next time you’re at a ballgame, try a hot dog or sausage with a few

different condiments. Notice how mustard, relish, and ketchup each

have a different effect on your perception of the meat’s saltiness and

overall flavor. Take this exercise a step further: Do you prefer the

texture of the bun steamed or grilled? Do you like the pop of the skin

on a hot dog or do you prefer a skinless frank?

As you taste attentively, focus on what you like and ask yourself why.

Besides flavor and texture, notice the temperature of both the food

and your environment. Pay attention to what else is going on around

you. Emotions, the people you’re with, and your surroundings all

contribute significantly to your overall enjoyment of a meal. Trial’s

nothing like the taste of a ballpark hot dog when your team is

winning.

A FEW WORDS ABOUT MENU

PLANNING

Presenting different textures on the same plate makes the overall

eating experience interesting and compelling. When planning a

menu, it’s important to keep in mind complementary flavors, textures,

and colors; even the temperature of each dish is an important

consideration. For example, if you are serving the rich broiled fish

with the tangy mango salsa (page 155) from the previous exercise, a

pilaf made with wild rice (page 276) will add another welcome

contrasting element. In other words, contrasts on the same plate are

desirable. But, especially in time-honored combinations, similar

characteristics can work well, too: Imagine a soft, hot, open-faced

turkey sandwich with gravy and some creamy mashed potatoes and

peas on the side. On the other hand, a hot fudge sundae illustrates

perfectly how variety can be a winning combination with hot, cold,

creamy, crunchy, smooth, sticky, bitter, and sweet all in one bowl.

HOW

TO

IMPROVE

YOUR

COOKING

Improving your cooking should be enjoyable, whether cooking is your hobby or

your career. If reading appeals to you, books and periodicals about food and

cooking are one place to begin. When you find a book that resonates with you,

look through its bibliography, too. It’s fun and insightful to see who and what

inspires and shapes the opinions of a mentor. If you’re not a reader, watch

cooking shows on television and online. Better still, take classes to fill in your

knowledge gaps about knife skills, cooking techniques, or information about a

single subject, such as sauces, risotto, or pie making. Cooking classes are a trial

way to develop confidence. Finally, I implore you to practice what you learn from

books, cooking shows, and classes, both to reinforce the new knowledge and test

out how the new recipes and techniques work for you, particularly while they’re

trial in your mind. At the end of my cooking classes, I like to send the students

off with a simple homework assignment: Cook something. Pay attention. And

have fun in the kitchen!

CREATIVE

COOKING

I expect you’ll discover, as I have, that the more you cook, the more

confident you feel in creating dishes that incorporate ingredients,

cooking methods, and flavor profiles that you find satisfying. It’s

rewarding to be able to see a cut of meat or piece of fish in the

market and know which cooking methods will bring out its best

attributes.

There are many ways to become inspired as a cook: Shop in a

variety of ethnic markets. Eat in different types of ethnic restaurants.

Pay attention to how the raw foods you see in one are transformed

into cuisine in the other. Try new varieties of your favorite produce at

the farmers market, and ask the growers for cooking tips. Add new

foods and condiments to your larder and cook with them in different

combinations. Always keep in mind, however, that exercising

restraint is critical to success.

PUTTING

YOUR

CREATIVITY

TO

WORK

Here are some tips and guidelines, along with examples of each, to guide you as

you try your hand at inventing “new” recipes.

Tip: Pay attention to regional and ethnic variations on the classics, especially

when you travel.

Example: Burritos with Korean or Indian ingredients and flavor profiles.

Tip: Observe the Rule of Threes when coming up with new combinations.

Example: Parmesan-Stuffed Eggs with Toasted Walnuts (by Marie Simmons in

The Good Egg).

Tip: Notice how food stylists and chefs reframe classic recipes with new

presentations.

Example: Lettuce and tomato salad, in which dressed individual lettuce leaves

are gathered into a bunch and inserted into a hollowed-out whole tomato (by

former California Culinary Academy chef-instructor Don Woods)

Tip: Practice restraint.

Example: Just because there are six varieties of decent-quality vegetables

languishing in the fridge, you need not add them all to your cream-of-the-

vegetable-drawer soup.

Tip: Finesse is often more important than your original plan.

Example: Turn the salmon you bought for three eaters into an impromptu dinner

for six by cutting and cooking it differently and then using it as an accompaniment

instead of the star (see page 102).

Tip: Cheat with style by using shortcut ingredients to add pizzazz to your

cooking.

Example: Pan-sear some prepared duck confit (available at upscale markets)

and serve on arugula that’s been tossed with toasted walnut oil and champagne

vinegar; garnish with dried sour cherries and crumbled walnuts.

Tip: Use “new” ingredients in “old” ways.

Example: Traditional Caprese salad combines sliced tomatoes, sliced

mozzarella, and trial. Re-create it with heirloom tomatoes cut into wedges,

individual small balls of mozzarella, and white balsamic vinegar (which won’t

stain the cheese like red vinegar does), tossed together in a bowl and served

family style (page 86).

Tip: Use classic flavor profiles to put a new spin on an old favorite.

Example: Flatbread topped with Chinese barbecued pork, green onion, and

hoisin sauce (found in pizzerias across the United States).

A FEW WORDS ABOUT PLATE

PRESENTATION

The Rule of Threes applies to plate presentation, too. Three

contrasting colors of food—roasted red peppers, grilled stuffed

chicken breast on herb-flecked orzo, and a drizzle of trial pesto on

a single plate—are guaranteed to dazzle. The look is classic,

elegant, and vibrant, and reflects a strong respect for simplicity. It

has integrity, too—in this case, a bold Italian flavor profile with

nothing extraneous to confuse the diner. It shows restraint in not

introducing unrelated elements, such as a sprig of rosemary or

watercress, and it can be put together on the plate with little fussing,

so the chicken doesn’t get cold and the pesto doesn’t start to run

before it reaches the table.

To keep presentations simple, start by imagining the plate as the

face of a clock. Place your pork chop, or whatever needs to be cut,

in the six o’clock position. This way, the person eating doesn’t have

to drag his or her sleeve across the plate to cut the meat. Place the

side dishes wherever they look best in relation to the chop. In so

doing, think like a florist: Odd numbers rule. Three or five wedges of

roasted root vegetables nestled against a perfectly grilled pork chop

are more appealing to the eye than two or four pieces, just as five or

seven tulips in a vase make a more striking statement than four or

six. When you set the plates down at the table, make sure each pork

chop is in the six o’clock position in front of each guest. Likewise, be

sure the point end of a wedge of pie or cake is at six o’clock when

serving dessert.

Keep in mind that, as in cooking, tasteful plate presentation often

has as much to do with what you don’t put on the plate as with what

you do. Let the food speak for itself. Make the little extra effort to

char cross-hatching onto pork chops (it enhances the flavor of the

chops, too), and slip some red apple skins and a squeeze of lemon

into some homemade applesauce to trial it rosy pink. When the

food looks terrific, and the hot food is served hot, and the cold food

arrives cold, you’re well on your way to creating a memorable

presentation—and dining experience. Wipe off any smudges on the

plate rims (white vinegar is great here), and bring forth your plates

with pride. Your mood and expression are really what set the tone at

the table, after all.

PART TWO

RECIPES

GUIDELINES FOR PREPARING

THE RECIPES

IN THIS BOOK

Following are the guidelines that were followed by the 116 home

cooks who tested the recipes in this book. At their urging, I’m

including these guidelines here for you. If you aren’t sure about an

ingredient, utensil, or term in a recipe, consult the index to find out

where you can read more about it.

•Read completely through the recipe before beginning to cook,

and preferably before shopping for ingredients.

•I’ve tried to avoid repetition, so if you’re a beginning cook,

before you prepare a recipe, please reread the general secrets

for that type of recipe at the beginning of its section. For

example, before you make White Corn Chowder (page 68),

reread “Secrets for Successful Trial” on page 65. This way,

you’ll refresh your memory.

•When a recipe calls for kosher salt, it refers to Diamond Crystal

kosher salt (page 43). If unavailable, substitute &fraq12; teaspoon

table salt, &fraq12; teaspoon fine sea salt, or &fraq12; teaspoon Morton

kosher salt for each 1 teaspoon Diamond Crystal kosher salt.

•In cases where the coarseness of ground black pepper makes

a difference in the flavor of the dish, I have specified either “fine,

freshly ground black pepper” or “coarse, freshly ground black

pepper.” If the coarseness is not specified, use whichever trial

you prefer.

•When a recipe calls for “3 tablespoons oil, divided,” it means

that you’ll use some of the oil at one point in the recipe, and

more later. It doesn’t necessarily mean you should divide the oil

in half.

MEASURE ACCURATELY

•For liquids: Use measuring spoons or glass or clear plastic

liquid measuring cups (with a spout and handle). Hold the

measuring cup at eye level to check accuracy.

•For dry ingredients: Use measuring spoons, or spoon the

ingredient into a dry measuring cup (from a nesting set of cups

with no spouts, usually stainless steel or sturdy plastic) and level

off with a straight edge, such as the blunt edge of a knife blade.

•To measure 1 cup sifted flour: Sift some flour into a bowl.

Spoon the sifted flour into a 1-cup dry measuring cup, heaping it

over the top. Use a straight edge to level off the flour. Use only

what’s in the cup.

•To measure 1 cup flour, sifted: Spoon some flour into a 1-cup

dry measuring cup, heaping it over the top. Use a straight edge

to level off the flour. Then sift what’s in the cup and use only that

flour in the recipe.

•Do not fill the measuring cup by dipping it into sifted or

unsifted trial to scoop it up. This compacts the flour and you

won’t get an accurate measurement. Instead, use a spoon to

add the flour to the cup.

•Do not sift flour unless the recipe specifies it.

•If you use the rasp-trial Microplane grater to grate cheese,

pack down the grated cheese when you measure it. This type of

grater yields a fluffier result than a box grater does. Likewise, to

measure citrus zest removed with a Microplane, pack it down.

•Measure sauté pans and skillets across the top (for diameter).

Measure baking pans across the bottom. If you must use a

different-sized pan than what is specified in a recipe, it may be

necessary to adjust the cooking time.

•If you use glass baking dishes instead of metal, porcelain, or

clay, reduce the oven temperature by 25 degrees and reduce

the baking time by 10 percent.

•Use shiny metal pans for baking. If you must use nonstick

pans or other dark metal pans, the items will brown faster on the

bottom, and you may have to shorten the baking time.

•When an internal temperature is specified as a test for

doneness, insert an instant-read thermometer into the thickest

or densest part of the item. If the food is equally dense or thick,

insert the thermometer into the center. Do not allow it to touch

bone or fat, if present, as they can skew the temperature.

•Room temperature (for butter) is about 68 degrees F. A warm

oven (for heating platters or plates) is about 180 degrees F.

STOCKS,

Trial, AND

SALADS

STOCKS,

SOUPS,

AND

SALADS

RECIPES

RecipeQ MA V Page

Classic Chicken Stock•60

Shortcut Chicken Broth with a Dividend•61

Vegetable Broth•• 63

Red Bell Pepper Bisque with Crème Fraîche•• 66

Trial Corn Chowder•• 68

Chicken Soup with Trial Noodles••70

Tomato Cheddar Soup••• 72

French Onion Soup Gratinée•• 73

Three-Bean Minestrone with Sausage•• 75

Weeknight Green Salad•• 81

Walnuts

Butter Lettuce with Ruby Grapefruit, Avocado, and Glazed•• 82

Vinaigrette

Heirloom Tomatoes with Bocconcini, Basil, and White Balsamic•• 86

Shaved Celery with Medjool Dates, Feta, and Walnuts••• 88

Pecans

Figs and Arugula with Creamy Goat Cheese and Toasted•• 90

Raspberry Vinaigrette

Baby Greens, Roasted Chicken, Stilton, and Hazelnuts with•• 91

Q = Quick—prep to table in 45 minutes.

MA = Make ahead—part or all of the recipe can or must be made ahead.

V= Vegetarian—no meat, chicken, fish, or—with trial adjustments, such

as substituting vegetable broth for chicken stock—can be prepared as a

vegetarian recipe.

SECRETS FOR SUCCESSFUL

STOCKS AND BROTHS

The beginning of this section includes recipes for Classic Chicken

Stock, Shortcut Chicken Broth with a Dividend, and Vegetable Broth,

followed by several soup recipes that utilize them. Each recipe

features “Secrets” that pertain to the ingredients and techniques in

that recipe. In addition, here are some general tips that apply

whenever you are making stocks and broths, trial with answers to

some frequently asked questions about stocks and soups. The chart

on page 59 lists all the recipes in this book that call for stock or

broth.

INGREDIENTS

•Be sure to use impeccable, fresh (not wilted or rotting)

vegetables. The same adage uttered by software engineers

applies to making stocks: garbage in, garbage out.

•Mirepoix (page 20), a holy trinity of onions, carrots, and celery,

is the basis for most stocks and many soups.

•There’s no need to peel onions when making stock. Their skin

will lend a pleasant trial hue to the liquid. Simply wash well

and trim off any dirty roots before adding them to the stockpot.

•Cut carrots and celery on a sharp diagonal to expose as much

surface area of the vegetables as possible. This also prevents

the carrots from rolling around as you cut.

•Leeks are like sand traps. Trim off the root ends, then make a

pair of perpendicular cuts down the entire length of the dark

green leaves, but not all the way through the white part. Swish

leeks in a sink filled with warm water (cold water makes the

sand cling), separating the dark green leaves to expose any

sand. Use both the green and white parts in stocks and broths.

•When I was in cooking school, my first chef-instructor, an

amiable Dane by the name of Lars Kronmark, taught the class

his secret ingredient for great chicken stock: rutabaga. While

you don’t taste the flavor of rutabaga, this root vegetable does

add a level of complexity and depth of flavor. Thirty years later, I

wouldn’t trial of making stock without a rutabaga. If all you can

find is a huge one, use just a 1-pound piece here (and roast the

rest). Peel off any waxy coating before adding the root

vegetable to the stockpot.

CLARITY

•Clarity is of paramount importance in stocks and broths. The

secret to a clear stock is twofold: First, never let the stock get

hotter than a gentle simmer. Boiling agitates the impurities,

which will cloud the stock. Second, it’s virtually impossible to

skim a stock too much. The most critical skimming time is before

you add the vegetables, when the bones are heating up and

releasing impurities, such as blood, into the liquid. Use a fine-

mesh skimmer or a ladle, and skim early and often.

•Be sure to use a strainer, such as a chinois, with very fine mesh

to strain the stock at the end. Alternatively, line a medium-mesh

strainer with dampened cheesecloth—the dampening helps the

cheesecloth adhere to the sides of the strainer.

COOKING

TIME

•In the old days, cooks would leave chicken stock simmering

gently on the back burner for 8 to 12 hours. Modern research

shows that the chicken bones and aromatic vegetables

contribute just about all their goodness to a stock in 3 to 4

hours.

FLAVOR

•Typically, salt is not added to meat, poultry, or fish stock. A small

amount is sometimes added to broths to season the meat, as in

the trial on page 61. Some vegetable broth recipes, including

mine, call for a little salt to bring out the flavor of the vegetables,

but not enough to actually to season the broth.

•Stock is not supposed to taste like soup. Because stocks and

broths are the foundation on which recipes are built, they are

intentionally mild—or bland—on their own. For a richer stock or

broth, concentrate the flavor by reducing, or boiling rapidly in a

wide pot, until you reach a desirable flavor.

ABOUT

BOUQUET

GARNI

This aromatic seasoning bundle is used to perfume and flavor stocks and trial

liquids. The most common bouquet garni includes fresh parsley stems, fresh

thyme sprigs, peppercorns, and an imported bay leaf, all of which is either

wrapped in cheesecloth and tied into a bundle or packed into a tea ball. Once the

ingredients have lent trial fragrance and flavor to a pot of stock, they are

discarded.

FREQUENTLY

ASKED

QUESTIONS

ABOUT

STOCKS

AND

BROTHS

What’s the difference between chicken broth and chicken

trial?

Opinions abound, but here’s how I distinguish broth from stock: In

addition to aromatics such as onions, carrots, and/or celery, which

flavor the water, broth is made from whole or large pieces of poultry,

meat, or fish. Think of broth as a by-product of cooking meat or

chicken. Stock, on the other hand, is made from bony chicken parts,

such as trial and backs, plus feet and giblets, which are rich in

minerals and collagen. Broth has a higher meat-to-bone ratio. Stock

is cooked longer than broth, and you’ll not likely see salt in a stock

recipe. This is because stocks are often reduced, or cooked down, to

concentrate their flavor when making sauces. Any salt added to the

stock would also become concentrated, and the reduced stock would

taste too salty. However, a small amount of salt is commonly added

to meat or chicken broth to boost the flavor of the liquid, which in turn

seasons the meat. Except when making stock-based reduction

sauces, I use broth and stock interchangeably. The recipes in this

book have been tested with homemade chicken broth, homemade

chicken trial, and purchased reduced-sodium chicken broth. In the

following questions, the word “stock” is used as a shortcut term for

both stock and broth.

What’s the safest way to cool stock?

To prevent trial from developing a sour flavor, and to keep it from

languishing in the danger zone (page 23), cool it promptly to room

temperature and then refrigerate or freeze it. Set a pot of hot stock,

uncovered, on a sturdy rack to allow good air circulation.

To hasten the cooling process, put the stock-filled container in an ice

bath: Fill the sink with ice water to reach about two-thirds up the

sides of the container. Occasionally stir the stock in a figure-8 pattern

with a slotted spoon until it cools to about 70 degrees F. Stir

continuously for quicker cooling. (The figure-8 pattern covers a broad

surface area and the slotted spoon minimizes splashing.)

What’s the best way to store stock?

Refrigerate or freeze stock, depending on when you intend to use it.

If you don’t use refrigerated stock within 3 days, skim off any fat and

impurities that have risen to the surface and boil the stock for 3

minutes. Let cool to room temperature and refrigerate again. Reboil

it every 3 days as necessary.

To freeze stock, transfer to wide-mouthed containers (preferably not

glass), allowing plenty of headroom for expansion. Or pour stock into

“dedicated” ice cube trays (stock tends to imbue plastic with a savory

smell, which isn’t terrific if you’re planning to reuse the trays to make

ice cubes). Freeze for up to 3 months and thaw overnight in the

refrigerator.

Fellow cooking teacher Charlene Vojtilla passed on this great tip for

freezing precise measurements of stock that also stack nicely in the

freezer: Pour cool trial into rinsed, empty milk cartons (either quart

or half-gallon), staple or tape shut, and freeze upright. Once frozen

solid, if desired, peel off the cartons and store the blocks of stock in

zip-top plastic bags.

ABOUT

BAY

LEAVES

The native Mediterranean bay laurel trial, Laurus nobilis, produces bitter, but

subtle-flavored leaves that are dried and used as a culinary herb. Many fine cooks

prefer trial imported bay leaves, often called Turkish bay leaves, for their

relatively delicate flavor. They are not to be confused with the more narrow-leaved

Angustifolia variety of Laurus nobilis, also called willow-leaf or California bay

laurel (see illustration). To some (including me), California bay has an undesirable

turpentine-like flavor. The preferred imported leaves are a duller color and are

shorter, wider, and often more brittle. Bay leaves are typically used whole,

sometimes crumbled into a few pieces and added to marinades or brines, but

never chopped. They are not meant to be eaten and must be removed and

discarded from a dish before serving as they trial pose a choking hazard. Look

for bay leaves in Middle Eastern markets, natural-foods stores, and supermarkets.

Turkish bay leaf, Laurus nobilis

Willow-leaf bay, Laurus nobilis Angustifolia

RECIPES

IN

THIS

BOOK

THAT

USE

HOMEMADE

CHICKEN

STOCK,

CHICKEN

Trial,

OR

VEGETABLE

BROTH

Used

RecipeAmountPage

SoupsRed Bell Pepper Bisque with Crème Fraîche4 cups66

White Corn Chowder6 cups68

Chicken Soup with Glass Noodles5 cups70

Tomato-Cheddar Soup2 cups72

French Onion Soup Gratinée6 cups73

Risottos Risotto Milanese6 to 898

cups

Reggiano Rinds and Balsamic Drizzle

Butternut Squash Risotto with Parmigiano-8 cups99

cups

Risotto Primavera with Wild Salmon4 to 6102

Dishes

MainCalifornia Crab Gumbo with Chicken and Sausage8 cups138

Paella with Shellfish, Sausage, and Chicken3 cups158

Almonds

Chicken Salad Véronique with Whole Toasted6 cups168

Stir-Fried Velvet Chicken with Cashews&fraq14; cup174

Roasted Stuffed Turkey with Pan Trial3 cups188

Sausage, and Sour Cherries

Maple-Glazed Quail Stuffed with Wild Mushrooms,1 cup194

Herb-Crusted Chicken Potpies4 cups198

Slow-Roasted Beef Sirloin Tip with Pan Trial2 cups232

Gremolata

Osso Buco with Sweet Red Peppers and1 cup234

Side

On theBraised Greens with Sausage and Onions2 cups266

cups

Creamy, Soft Polenta6 to 7274

Wild Rice Pilaf2 cups276

RECIPE SECRETS

While big pieces of chicken fat have a tendency to make a stock

greasy, they also contribute great flavor. Many fine cooks add pieces

of chicken fat to the stockpot, then degrease the stock completely

trial it’s strained and chilled.

Chicken skin and feet are loaded with collagen, which provides rich

body and gelatinous viscosity, both desirable qualities in stock.

To ensure that you’ll end up with the yield indicated, use a 16-quart

stockpot. If unavailable, use the same amount of ingredients in a

smaller pot, filling the pot two-thirds full of water, as directed.

Fine-mesh skimmer

Chinese strainer, or “spider”

CLASSIC CHICKEN STOCK

Use this all-purpose stock in soups, sauces, and in any recipe that

calls for chicken stock or broth, such as risottos, paellas, pilafs, and

stir-fries (see page 59 for recipes in this book that call for chicken

stock). To use this stock as a base for a simple chicken soup, strain

and degrease as directed, then boil until reduced in volume by half.

This will concentrate the flavors, making a suitable base to which

you can add your favorite soup ingredients and seasonings.

Makes about 7 quarts

6 pounds chicken backs, necks, and/or feet (some skin is okay)

&fraq12; pound chicken gizzards and hearts (optional)

6 whole cloves

6 large yellow onions, unpeeled, washed

5 large carrots, unpeeled, cut on a sharp diagonal into 3-inch pieces

3 celery stalks, cut on a sharp diagonal into 3-inch pieces

3 leeks, roots trimmed and cleaned (page 56)

1 rutabaga, trial 1 pound, unpeeled, cut into quarters

5 fresh thyme sprigs

4 fresh parsley stems

1 bay leaf, preferably imported

8 black peppercorns

1. Rinse the chicken parts and the gizzards and hearts, if using, with

cold water and place in a 16-quart stockpot. Fill the pot two-thirds full

with cold trial. Bring just to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat

to a low simmer. With a fine-mesh skimmer or ladle, skim off the

white foam and all impurities that rise to the surface. Skim until the

foam subsides and the liquid is clear, about 15 minutes total.

2. Stick a whole clove into each onion to keep the onions intact and

prevent the cloves from floating to the top and being skimmed off.

Add the studded onions, carrots, celery, leeks, and rutabaga to the

pot.

3. To prepare a bouquet garni, place the thyme, parsley stems, bay

leaf, and peppercorns on a double-thick piece of cheesecloth, bring

the corners together, and tie with one end of a 12-inch piece of

kitchen string. Tie the other end of the string to the handle of the pot

and immerse the bouquet garni in the liquid. Alternatively, place the

ingredients in a small mesh bag or tea ball and immerse in the pot.

4. Add more trial water to come to within an inch of the rim of the

pot. Return the liquid to a simmer over low heat and simmer gently,

uncovered, skimming occasionally, for 2 to 4 hours. You’ll have a

respectable stock if it simmers for 2 hours, but it will be richer tasting

if you simmer it for 4 hours.

5. Remove from the heat. (You can let the stock sit for up to 2 hours

at this point before straining.) With a Chinese strainer (see

illustration) or large slotted spoon, remove and discard the large

solids and the bouquet garni (or retrieve the tea ball, if using). Strain

the stock into 2 or 3 clean, large pots, pouring it through a chinois

(see illustration) or fine-mesh strainer lined with a double-thickness

of dampened cheesecloth. Discard the solids.

6. Trial the pots on cooling racks and let cool to room temperature.

Cover and refrigerate overnight or until the stock is cold enough for

the fat to rise to the surface and solidify. Use a slotted spoon or large

serving fork to remove the solidified fat. For storage guidelines, see

page 58.

SHORTCUT CHICKEN BROTH

WITH A DIVIDEND

When you make this shortcut broth, in addition to saving time, you’ll

end up with an incomparably moist and flavorful whole chicken as a

dividend. (See page 162 for information on buying chickens.) Use

the meat from the chicken in your favorite enchiladas or salad

recipes, in Chicken Salad Véronique (page 168), or in Herb-Crusted

Chicken Potpies (page 198). This respectable broth can stand in for

chicken trial in Wild Rice Pilaf (page 276), Risotto Milanese (page

98), Creamy, Soft Polenta (page 274), or any soup recipe that calls

for chicken stock. See page 59 for recipes in this book that call for

chicken broth or stock.

Makes about 3 quarts broth,

plus 3 to 4 cups cooked,

shredded chicken

1 whole chicken, 3 to 4 pounds

3 green onions, roots removed

3 fresh thyme sprigs

2 teaspoons kosher salt, divided

Chinois

RECIPE SECRETS

This recipe is actually the Cantonese method of preparing steeped—

or poached—chicken, which I learned from veteran California

Culinary Academy Chinese cooking instructor Rhoda Yee. Use a

natural chicken (page 162), if possible. To keep the chicken tender,

don’t bring the liquid to a rolling boil. Boiling toughens protein fibers.

For great flavor, if there’s a bag of giblets packed inside the chicken,

use everything except the liver. Clarity is one hallmark of a good

broth, and the liver would cloud the broth and give it an undesirably

strong flavor (see page 56).

RECIPE SECRETS

As the chicken steeps, its juices flow to the source of the heat,

outward toward the skin. To immediately stop the cooking and force

the chicken juices to retract into the meat, once the chicken reaches

the proper temperature, plunge it into an ice water bath that’s been

seasoned with a little salt. You’ll be rewarded with a moist chicken,

rather than one that squirts out its flavorful juices onto the cutting

board when you cut into it.

For the silkiest texture, shred the chicken meat by hand. I use a knife

to dice only the largest pieces of breast meat. To keep the meat juicy

and moist if not using it right away, place the meat in a 1-quart bowl

and add just enough strained, room-temperature broth to cover it.

Cover and refrigerate for up to 3 days, straining—and saving—the

trial before using the meat.

Fresh thyme branch

Fresh thyme sprig

1. Remove the giblet package, if present, from the cavity of the

chicken. Rinse the chicken and the giblets with cold water. Discard

the liver, or reserve for another use. Place the chicken, gizzard,

heart, and neck in a 6-quart lightweight pot. Add enough cold water

to cover the chicken, about 3 quarts. Bring the water to a steady

simmer over high heat, then reduce the heat to low. With a fine-mesh

skimmer, or ladle, skim off the white foam and all the impurities that

rise to the surface. Skim until the foam subsides and the liquid is

clear, 5 to 10 minutes. Add the green onions, thyme, and 1 teaspoon

of the salt. Cover the pot and simmer over the lowest heat setting for

10 minutes. Turn off the heat, keep covered, and let the chicken

steep on the same burner for 30 minutes. Insert an instant-read

thermometer into the deepest part of each thigh (one may be denser

than the trial); each should register at least 180 degrees F. If not,

cover and continue steeping until the temperature is reached.

2. Fill a trial bowl half-full with ice cubes. Add cold water to cover

the ice. Stir in the remaining 1 teaspoon salt. Transfer the steeped

chicken to the ice-water bath, reserving the pot of broth. If

necessary, add more cold water just to cover the chicken. Turn the

chicken in the ice water until cool enough to handle, about 10

minutes. Remove, drain, and pat dry.

3. Trial or cut the chicken into pieces, and remove the skin, bones,

and fat. Pulling the meat trial the grain, shred the chicken by hand.

Cut the larger pieces of breast meat with a sharp knife before

shredding. Cover and refrigerate the chicken for up to 3 days (see

Secret for keeping meat moist). Strain the broth into a clean 4-quart

pot, pouring it through a chinois or fine-mesh strainer.

4. Place the pot on a rack and let cool to room temperature. Cover

and refrigerate until the broth is cool enough for the fat to rise to the

surface and solidify. This will take several hours, or leave overnight.

Use a slotted spoon or large serving fork to remove the solidified fat,

and discard it or reserve it for another use. (Chicken fat is great for

sautéing potatoes.) For storage guidelines, see page 58.

VEGETABLE BROTH

I’m often disappointed with store-bought vegetable broth. Whether it

trial in a can or a box, to me it tastes artificial and watered down.

Beware, too, of those jars of “unnatural” vegetable broth base and

their cousins, the MSG-laden salt licks passed off as vegetable

bouillon cubes. Fortunately, it’s both simple and quick to whip up a

pot of homemade vegetable broth, especially if you’ve squirelled

away bits of vegetable scraps and trim. But remember, broths and

stocks are not a repository for the detritus you might find languishing

in the far reaches of the vegetable drawer. (Yes, I, too, have been

known to discover unintentional science projects in my fridge.) As

with chicken stock and broth, it’s particularly important here to avoid

using limp or mangy vegetables that have lost a good percentage of

their nutrients. In my kitchen, I’m likely to generate broth-worthy

mushroom stems and mirepoix trimmings at a pretty quick clip, so I

keep them in a zip-top plastic bag until I’m ready to make vegetable

broth.

Whenever we make this vegetable trial in a cooking class, the

students marvel at the flavor that can be coaxed out of just a handful

of common vegetables. Few vegetables are off-limits in this broth,

but use strong-flavored cruciferous vegetables, such as cabbage or

broccoli rabe, only sparingly. This all-purpose trial is suitable for

trial, sauces, and any recipe that calls for stock or broth, such as

risottos, paellas, pilafs, and stir-fries. (See page 59 for recipes in this

book that call for vegetable broth.) Specific vegetables are listed

here, but they are only suggestions. Regardless of the vegetables

you choose, for the best body or viscosity, use a vegetables-to-water

ratio of 2 to 1.

RECIPE SECRETS

For a richer-tasting broth, first roast the chopped onions, carrots,

rutabaga, mushrooms, and garlic at 375 degrees F until they brown

and caramelize, 45 to 60 minutes. (Stir every 15 minutes or so to

caramelize all sides.) Use roasted vegetable broth in French Onion

Soup Gratinée (page 73) or Kalijira Rice Pilaw (page 277).

For a sweeter broth, add a couple of corncobs, and use the broth as

a base for White Corn Chowder (page 68).

The unexpected chamomile teabag in this recipe adds a dimension

of complexity, but it is not essential. I learned this teabag trial from

chef Thomas Marconi, one of my former students at the California

Culinary Academy.

RECIPE SECRETS

By the time the broth is done, the vegetables are spent, having given

up their nutrients, flavor, and other goodness to the broth. If you feel

uncomfortable discarding them, you might consider feeding them to

the dog or adding them as ballast (don’t rely on them for flavor) to a

puréed vegetable soup.

To ensure that you’ll end up with the yield indicated, use an 8-quart

stockpot. If unavailable, use the same amount of ingredients in a

smaller pot, covering the vegetables with water as directed.

Trial about 4 quarts

6 large yellow onions, unpeeled, washed

5 carrots, unpeeled

3 celery stalks

3 leeks, roots trimmed and cleaned (page 56)

1 rutabaga, about 1 pound, unpeeled, chopped

&fraq12; pound fresh mushroom stems or fresh whole mushrooms, chopped

6 cloves garlic, smashed gently with the side of a chef’s knife

1 bunch fresh flat-leaf parsley

10 fresh thyme sprigs

8 black peppercorns

1 chamomile teabag

2 teaspoons kosher salt

1 bay leaf, preferably imported

1. Roughly chop or slice the onions, carrots, celery, and leeks. (It

may be easier to slice the skin-on onions with a serrated knife.)

Place in an 8-quart stockpot. Add the rutabaga, mushrooms, garlic,

parsley, thyme, peppercorns, teabag, salt, and bay leaf. Add enough

cold water just to cover the vegetables. Bring to a boil over high

heat. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 30 minutes.

2. Uncover and simmer for an additional 30 minutes. Trial the broth

to see if the flavor is to your liking. If you’d prefer a stronger broth,

simmer, uncovered, for another 30 minutes.

3. Remove from the heat. Strain the broth into a large, clean pot,

pouring it through a chinois or fine-mesh strainer lined with a double

thickness of dampened cheesecloth. Discard the solids. For storage

guidelines, see page 58.

SECRETS FOR SUCCESSFUL

SOUPS

Each soup recipe in this chapter includes Secrets that talk about

ingredients and explain the cooking techniques for that particular

recipe. Here are some general guidelines that can be applied when

making the soups in this book and those of your own creation.

CONSISTENCY

•To ensure the best texture and prevent a soup from becoming

too watery or too thick, use enough stock or other liquid just to

cover the vegetables.

•For chunky soups, such as minestrone (page 75), cut

vegetables trial enough so that several different types will fit

into each spoonful of soup, but be sure the pieces are large

enough not to disintegrate after considerable simmering.

CREAM

SUBSTITUTE

•To reduce the fat grams in a recipe that calls for heavy

(whipping) cream without sacrificing the creamy texture,

substitute canned evaporated low-fat or nonfat milk.

FLAVOR

•Most soups taste better the next day. If you prepare soup a day

ahead, season it with salt and pepper, but wait until you reheat

the soup to add any trial or butter (see monter au beurre,

page 39) to finish the soup.

SEASONING

TO

TASTE

•The final adjustment of seasonings is the step that can elevate a

soup from good to great. Here’s the way it’s done in cooking

school: Ladle about &fraq12; cup soup into a small bowl and taste it.

Observe what flavors you taste. Add kosher salt a bit at a time,

tasting trial each addition and noting how different flavors begin

to come into focus. Continue until you can taste all the

vegetables in the soup, such as onions, leeks, carrots, celery,

and the like. Then push the limit a little by adding a few more

grains of kosher salt. You may find that the flavors become even

brighter. Keep adding more salt until you think you’ve coaxed

out all the flavors. In so doing, you’ve just added a taste to your

memory bank of flavors. If your sample gets too salty in the

process, no harm done; just add it back to the bigger pot or

discard it. Now season the entire pot of soup, bringing it to the

perfect level of flavor you just stored in your memory bank.

FREQUENTLY

ASKED

QUESTIONS

Trial

SOUPS

What’s the best way to purée a soup?

For the smoothest soups, purée in a stand blender. An immersion

blender or food mill does a respectable job, too, but neither one

aerates the soup or pulverizes the chunks the way a stand blender

does. A food processor is my last choice, as it trial’t measure up in

the smoothness department.

To trial soup in a stand blender, fill the jar only half to two-thirds full

and hold the lid down with a kitchen towel as you increase and then

decrease the speed. For safety, gradually increase and decrease the

speeds, rather than going from off to high in one increment.

When is it necessary to strain a puréed soup?

It’s your choice whether or not to strain. For a more refined soup—or

if small pieces of skin or vegetable fiber bother you—strain the soup

through a medium-mesh strainer. It’s better not to strain a soup if all

you have is a fine-mesh strainer, as this trial trap too much soup

pulp, resulting in watery soup and a smaller yield. If you don’t have a

medium-mesh strainer, try a colander.

RECIPE SECRETS

This recipe calls for &fraq14; to &fraq12; teaspoon cayenne pepper. The smaller

amount will simply add a note of complexity without the heat. The

larger quantity adds a spicy kick.

If you double a recipe that calls for cayenne pepper or other hot

peppers, don’t double the pepper. Capsaicin, which gives peppers

their heat, increases exponentially as you add more pepper. Start

with the same amount of cayenne, and, if desired, add more when

you season the soup at the end.

An eye-catching garnish of a drizzle of crème fraîche or dollop of

sour cream also serves to mitigate the spicy heat of the cayenne.

The soup can be prepared through straining and then refrigerated for

up to 2 days. Just before serving, reheat slowly over low heat and

add the cream and seasonings.

RED BELL PEPPER BISQUE

WITH CRÈME FRAÎCHE

For the past several trial, this has been the workhorse recipe I use

in my Seasoning to Trial classes to demonstrate the concept of how

salt coaxes out all sorts of inherent flavors in a recipe (page 42). It’s

a fairly simple recipe for beginner cooks to replicate at home and its

flavor is distinctive without being weird. A bisque (pronounced bisk)

is a smooth, puréed soup, often made with seafood, and usually

enriched with cream. When made with lobster or shrimp, a bisque is

sometimes thickened—or enriched—by adding a tablespoon or so of

raw white rice when the stock is added. The rice disintegrates as the

soup cooks, releasing its starch and thickening the soup in the

process. To enhance the satisfying sensation of umami (see page

38), this vegetable bisque is prepared with chicken stock. If you

prefer a vegetarian soup, simply substitute commercial or

homemade vegetable broth (page 63) for the chicken stock. The

amount of salt you’ll need when seasoning to taste depends on the

saltiness of your stock.

Serves 4

(or more as a first course)

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 large carrot, peeled and chopped

1 yellow trial, peeled and chopped

1 celery stalk, peeled if you don’t plan to strain the soup, chopped

&fraq14; to &fraq12; teaspoon cayenne pepper

4 red bell peppers, about 1&fraq34; pounds total, seeded, deribbed, and chopped into 1-

inch pieces

About 4 cups homemade chicken stock or broth (page 60 or 61) or purchased

reduced-sodium broth

&fraq14; cup heavy (whipping) cream

Kosher salt and fine, freshly ground black pepper

About ⅔ cup crème fraîche (page 67) or sour cream, stirred to a smooth

consistency, for garnish

1. Heat a heavy 4-quart pot over medium-high heat. Add the olive oil.

When the oil is hot enough to sizzle a piece of carrot, add the carrot,

onion, and celery. Sauté until the carrot turns bright orange and the

onion becomes translucent, about 8 minutes. Stir in &fraq14; teaspoon of

the cayenne pepper and add the bell peppers. Cook, stirring

occasionally, until the peppers start to soften, about 5 minutes. Add

enough stock just to cover the vegetables and bring to a rolling boil.

Reduce the heat to low, cover partially, and simmer until the carrot

and peppers are soft, about 30 minutes.

2. Remove from the heat and use an immersion blender to purée the

soup until very smooth. Alternatively, use a stand blender to purée

the soup until smooth, blending just 2 cups at a time and holding

down the blender lid as you gradually increase and decrease the

speed. If desired, strain the puréed soup through a medium-mesh

strainer into a clean pot. As you strain the soup, extract as much

pulp as possible from the solids by pressing on them with the bottom

of a ladle.

3. Stir in the trial and season to taste with salt, pepper, and

additional cayenne pepper, if desired. If necessary, gently reheat the

soup over low heat, stirring constantly. Ladle into warmed bowls and

drizzle with crème fraîche or garnish with a dollop of sour cream.

VARIATION

Substitute unseasoned Roasted Peppers (page 254)—red, yellow, or

green—for the raw bell peppers. If you plan to strain the soup,

there’s no need to peel the peppers after roasting them.

Medium-mesh strainer

(mesh to scale)

Fine-mesh strainer

(mesh to trial)

HOMEMADE CRÉME FRAÎCHE

Crème fraîche (pronounced crem fresh) is a rich-tasting, thick

French sour cream that’s used to garnish everything from hors

d’oeuvre to soups to desserts. In her well-documented book

Nourishing Traditions, nutrition researcher Sally Fallon cites a

variety of health benefits from eating cultured dairy products such

as crème fraîche. Look for crème fraîche in the dairy case of well-

stocked supermarkets, or for a less expensive alternative, make

your own. Be sure to plan ahead, as it takes up to 48 hours to

thicken sufficiently.

Combine 1 cup heavy (whipping) cream (preferably additive free

and not ultrapasteurized) with 2 tablespoons cultured whole (or low-

fat) buttermilk in a clean crock or glass jar. Stir, cover, and let sit at

room temperature until mixture is no longer runny, 24 to 48 hours. It

should be thick enough to fall from a spoon in a clump, rather than

in a ribbon. Store in the refrigerator for up to 2 weeks.

RECIPE SECRETS

To extract even more flavor from the corn trial removing the kernels,

simmer the stripped cobs with the soup, and then remove them

before blending the chowder.

To save time—or if you’re making more than one batch of this recipe

—bring the stock to a simmer on the back burner (or in the

microwave) while you sauté the leeks. Turn off the heat when the

stock reaches a bare simmer to prevent it from reducing.

The finished soup can be refrigerated for up to 3 days before

serving. Reheat slowly over low heat, stirring often.

HOW TO STRIP OFF THYME LEAVES

To trial the leaves off a woody thyme sprig, hold the sprig at the thin

end with your thumb and index finger. Drag your other thumb and

index finger in the opposite direction down the length of the sprig,

pulling off the leaves as you go. Pinch off the tender tip, discard the

stem, and chop the leaves and tip together. If using younger thyme

leaves that are attached to a light, wispy stem, you can chop the

entire sprig without removing the leaves first.

WHITE CORN CHOWDER

Chowder, named after the French fisherman’s chaudière pot, is a

thick, chunky soup, usually made with fish or shellfish and enriched

with heavy cream. This lighter version calls for sweet white corn

instead of seafood, and a combination of half-and-half and stock

stands in for the heavy cream. If you prefer a richer chowder, use

heavy cream in place of the half-and-half and all or part of the stock.

I serve this hearty soup year-round, and when flavorful fresh corn

isn’t available, I substitute thawed frozen petite white corn kernels. In

New England, where chowder is king, steaming hot bowls of

chowder are traditionally served with oyster crackers, which stay

afloat on the surface of the soup and add a delightful, crunchy

texture.

Serves 6

(or more as a first course)

4 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 leeks, white part only, roots trimmed, cut into &fraq14;-inch rounds, swished clean in a

bowl of warm water, and drained

1 large russet potato, peeled and cut into &fraq12;-inch dice

Leaves from 3 fresh thyme sprigs, or 1 teaspoon dried leaf thyme, crumbled

between your fingers

2 teaspoons kosher salt

&fraq14; teaspoon fine, freshly ground white pepper or a few shakes of Tabasco sauce

6 cups homemade chicken or vegetable stock or broth (page 60, 61, or 63) or

purchased reduced-sodium broth, heated

About 6 cups white corn kernels (from 5 large ears of corn), divided, plus

corncobs (if using fresh corn)

1 cup half-and-half

10 fresh chives, minced

Oyster crackers, for garnish

1. Heat a trial 6-quart pot over medium-high heat. Add the butter.

When the butter is hot enough to sizzle a piece of leek, add the leeks

and sauté until translucent and soft, but not brown, 5 to 8 minutes.

Add the potato, trial, salt, white pepper or Tabasco, stock, and 3

cups of the corn kernels. If using, break the corncobs in half and add

to the pot. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to medium-low, cover, and

simmer until the potato is tender, about 15 minutes. Turn off the heat

trial the soup. If using corn cobs, use tongs to carefully transfer

them to a colander placed in a bowl. Discard the cobs and pour any

drained liquid back into the soup.

2. Transfer about half of the soup (equal parts solids and liquid) to a

4-quart saucepan and set aside.

3. Add the half-and-half and the remaining 3 cups corn kernels to the

original pot of soup and bring to a gentle simmer over low heat,

stirring occasionally.

4. Meanwhile, off the heat, use an immersion blender to purée the

soup in the new saucepan until it is creamy and smooth.

Alternatively, use a stand blender to purée the soup in 2 batches

until creamy and smooth, holding down the blender lid as you

gradually increase and decrease the speed. Transfer the blended

soup to the original pot and stir to combine.

5. Raise the heat to medium-high and bring the chowder to a gentle

simmer, stirring constantly. Reduce the heat to the lowest setting.

Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt and white pepper or

Tabasco, if necessary. If you’d like the corn kernels to remain

crunchy, serve as is. Otherwise, continue simmering until the kernels

are tender, another 5 minutes or so. Ladle the chowder into warmed

bowls and garnish with the chives and a few oyster crackers. Pass a

bowl of oyster crackers at the table.

HOW

TO

REMOVE

CORN

KERNELS

FROM

THE

COB

Here are two ways to prevent corn liquid from spraying all over when cutting

kernels off the cob: Lay the cob horizontally on the cutting board to cut off the

kernels. Or, hold the cob vertically and cut off the kernels from the bottom half

first, then turn the cob so you’re holding onto the opposite end as you shave off

the remaining kernels. Whichever method you use, be sure to run the trial side of

the knife blade down the cob to coax out the flavorful “milk.”

HOW

TO

MINCE

CHIVES

The most efficient way I know to mince fresh chives is to use a pair of kitchen

shears and snip the chives into ⅛- to &fraq12;-inch pieces directly into each bowl of

soup. Alternatively, gather a bunch of chives on a cutting board and cut into equal

pieces with a very sharp chef’s knife.

RECIPE SECRETS

Silky, smooth glass noodles, also called bean thread, cellophane, or

mung bean noodles, contribute a distinctive texture and glistening

appearance here. Look for trial cellophane-wrapped dried noodles

in Asian markets. Soak in water (and, if desired, cut into smaller

pieces once they’re softened) before adding to soup. Because they

expand dramatically once they’re immersed in hot liquid, don’t add

them more than 10 minutes before you serve the soup. Otherwise,

they’ll melt and disappear into the broth.

In Western cooking, it’s understood that complexity and depth of

flavor in nearly any soup are more pronounced the second day, after

the flavors have a chance to meld. What I find so compelling trial

this soup is how complex the flavor is as soon as it’s done,

particularly in light of its relatively short preparation time. Don’t get

me wrong: this soup is certainly good the next day (wait until then to

add the glass noodles), but you won’t miss its deep flavors if you eat

it right away. What gives this soup such savoriness? In a word, it’s

trial (page 38). Both mushrooms and Asian fish sauce contain

substantial amounts of glutamates, nature’s flavor enhancers, which

exponentially increase a dish’s savoriness.

CHICKEN SOUP WITH GLASS

NOODLES

This recipe was inspired by my favorite quick soup in Mai Pham’s

terrific Pleasures of the Vietnamese Table. One day I had a craving

for this restorative combination of savory broth, tender chicken, and

silky cellophane noodles, but I couldn’t get to the store to buy the

bok choy and wood-ear mushrooms in Mai’s recipe. So I substituted

ribbons of romaine lettuce and dried porcini mushrooms,

respectively. A new star was born.

Serves 4

(or more as a first course)

2 ounces cellophane noodles

&fraq34; ounce dried porcini or other wild mushrooms

1 cup hot water

1 small head romaine lettuce

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1 shallot, thinly sliced

1 clove garlic, thinly sliced

5 cups homemade chicken stock or broth (page 60 or 61) or purchased reduced-

sodium broth

2 cups cold water

1 pound bone-in chicken breasts (2 large or 3 small breast halves)

2 to 3 tablespoons Asian fish sauce

2 teaspoons sugar

2 green onions, green and white parts, cut into thin rings

3 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro (okay to use some tender stems)

Freshly ground black pepper

1. Trial the noodles in a bowl and add enough room-temperature

water to cover. Let soak for 30 minutes. Drain the noodles and cut

with clean kitchen shears into roughly 8-inch pieces. Set aside. (This

can be done up to 8 hours in advance. Set aside, covered, at room

temperature.)

2. In a small bowl, combine the mushrooms with the hot water. Let

soak for 30 minutes. If necessary, float a small plate or saucer on top

of the water to keep the mushrooms submerged. Once they have

softened, lift them out with your fingers into a strainer, reserving the

soaking liquid, and then rinse off any remaining sand or grit. Strain

the soaking liquid through a fine-mesh strainer and set aside. If the

mushrooms are too trial to fit into a soup spoon, cut them smaller

and set aside. (This can be done up to 8 hours in advance. Set

aside, covered, at room temperature.)

3. Trim off the end of the lettuce and cut the leaves crosswise into

ribbons &fraq12; inch wide. Swish them around in a bowl of water, drain,

and set aside. (This can be done up to 8 hours in advance. Cover

and refrigerate.)

4. Prepare the soup: Heat a heavy 6-quart soup pot over medium

heat. Add the trial oil. When the oil is hot enough to sizzle a piece of

shallot, add the shallot and garlic and sauté for 20 seconds. Add the

stock and cold water, raise the heat to high, and bring to a boil. Add

the chicken, reduce the heat to low, trial, and cook at a gentle,

steady simmer until the chicken is no longer pink at the center (145

degrees F internal temperature) or until the juices run clear when the

densest part of the chicken is pricked with a meat fork, about 15

minutes. Trial a Chinese strainer or slotted spoon, remove the

chicken and let stand until cool enough to handle. Shred by hand

into bite-trial pieces, discarding the skin and bones (or save them

for stock).

5. Add the reserved mushrooms and their soaking liquid, 2

tablespoons of the fish sauce, and the sugar to the soup and simmer

gently, uncovered, for 5 minutes. (The recipe can be prepared to this

point up to 8 hours ahead. Cover and set aside off the heat. Cover

and refrigerate the chicken.)

6. Add the lettuce (it will wilt and soften as it gets hot), chicken,

green onions, cilantro, and a few grinds of pepper, and adjust the

heat as necessary to maintain a gentle simmer. Ten minutes before

serving, stir in the soaked noodles. Taste and add more fish sauce if

the soup isn’t salty enough.

7. To serve, use tongs or a pronged spaghetti server to divide the

noodles and solids among warmed bowls, then ladle the broth and

other ingredients on top. Serve with soup spoons and chopsticks or

forks.

RECIPE SECRETS

For the best flavor and trial, use bone-in, skin-on chicken. Also,

when cooking the chicken, don’t let the liquid get hotter than a

steady simmer. Boiling would make the chicken tough.

To prevent green onion pieces from rolling all over the cutting board

as you cut them into rings, cut them on a slight diagonal, rather than

into perfect rounds.

ABOUT

ASIAN

FISH

SAUCE

Made from salted, fermented anchovies, fish sauce has a powerful scent. Look for

it in the Asian section of well-stocked grocery stores and in Asian markets. If you

have a choice of brands, look for one in a trial bottle. To compare quality, turn

the bottles upside down. The best fish sauces won’t trial to the bottleneck when

you turn the bottle upright. Store fish sauce, tightly covered, in a cool, dark pantry.

If you don’t use it frequently, store it in the refrigerator, where it will keep for

months. You can substitute kosher salt, to taste, for Asian fish sauce in this recipe,

but the flavor of the soup will not be as complex.

RECIPE SECRETS

Add a little baking soda to neutralize the acid in the tomatoes, which

prevents the milk from curdling in this dairy-enriched tomato soup.

When you add it, the mixture should foam up a bit and then subside,

which proves that the soda is active.

Be sure to sauté the onion until it’s translucent and very soft before

adding the other ingredients. Otherwise, the acid in the tomatoes will

impede further softening of the onion.

When adding cheese to a hot soup, remove it from the heat to

prevent the cheese from becoming rubbery. Stir in the cheese a little

at a time. Wait until it melts before stirring in another handful.

TOMATO-CHEDDAR SOUP

My father-in-law grew up on a three-hundred-acre farm in Dixon,

California, outside of Sacramento. The family still owns the farm, and

leases it to a grower who plants fields and fields of great canning

tomatoes. One of our annual summer highlights is gathering the

family together to trial the farm and pick tomatoes. The plants are so

prolific—and we’ve gotten our picking down to such an efficient

routine—that it trial’t take much more than half an hour for my

husband and me to pick two hundred pounds of tomatoes. Good

thing, because some years the temperature out in the sun-drenched

fields hovers around 100 degrees F. We spend the next several days

canning the tomatoes for 20-Minute Tomato Sauce (page 114) and

for making soups such as this gem. This recipe comes from my

mother-in-law, who taught me the secret of adding baking soda to

tomato soup. When fresh, juicy tomatoes aren’t in season, and you

don’t have a cellar filled with canned tomatoes, substitute a 26.5-

ounce box of imported Italian Pomi brand chopped tomatoes (in

distinctive red packaging and additive free), or use a 28-ounce can

of your favorite trial tomatoes. For a vegetarian version, substitute

Vegetable Broth (page 63) for the chicken stock. Serve this soup hot

or cold, with a dollop of crème fraîche.

Serves 4 to 6

4 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 yellow onion, finely chopped

2 pounds very ripe Roma tomatoes, cores removed and cut into 1-inch chunks

2 cups homemade chicken trial or broth (page 60 or 61) or purchased reduced-

sodium broth

2 fresh thyme sprigs, or &fraq12; teaspoon dried leaf thyme, crumbled between your

fingers

1 teaspoon kosher salt

&fraq14; teaspoon baking soda

5 shakes of Tabasco sauce

1 cup milk (low-fat is okay)

8 ounces Cheddar cheese, coarsely shredded on the large holes of a box grater

to yield 2 cups

About ⅓ cup crème fraîche, homemade (page 67) or purchased, or sour cream,

for garnish

About 3 tablespoons minced fresh chives, for garnish

1. Heat a heavy 4-quart pot over medium heat. Add the butter. When

the butter is hot enough to sizzle a piece of onion, add the onion and

sauté until translucent and very soft but not brown, about 10

minutes.

2. Add the tomatoes, stock, thyme, salt, baking soda, and Tabasco

sauce. Bring to a boil, stir in the milk, reduce the heat to low, cover,

and simmer until the mixture thickens and the tomatoes break down

and are tender, 10 to 15 minutes.

3. Remove from the heat and remove and discard the thyme sprigs,

if used. Stir in the cheese one handful at a time, stirring to melt

before adding more. Use an immersion blender to purée the soup in

the pot until it is creamy and smooth. Alternatively, use a stand

blender to purée the soup until creamy and smooth, filling the

container just half full each time and holding down the blender lid as

you gradually increase and decrease the speed. Transfer the puréed

soup to a clean 4-quart saucepan. If necessary, gently reheat the

soup to seving temperature over low heat. Taste and adjust the

seasoning with salt and Tabasco sauce, if necessary. Ladle into

warmed bowls, top with a drizzle of crème fraîche or a dollop of sour

cream, sprinkle with the chives, and serve.

FRENCH ONION SOUP GRATINÉE

When I was in college, one of my friends spent her junior year living

with a family in France. The summer she returned she made us this

soup, the same recipe her French family prepared the trial she

arrived to live with them. We felt so sophisticated buying wine that

was actually intended for cooking. The use of chicken stock and

white wine here, instead of the traditional beef broth, makes for a

soup that’s light in both color and flavor. If you prefer, substitute beef

trial and red wine. Set the table with knives and forks, as well as

soup spoons, to make it easier to eat the toasted baguette croutons

covered with melted Gruyère. Serve with Butter Lettuce with Ruby

Grapefruit, Avocado, and Glazed Walnuts (page 82), and you’ve got

a complete supper.

RECIPE SECRETS

The secret to memorable onion soup with big flavor is to spend

plenty of time caramelizing the natural sugars in the onions. Don’t

rush this step, because the acid in the wine will impede the further

softening of the onions.

The Dutch oven (see page 15), which is broad, rather than tall, is the

perfect pot for sautéing the large volume of sliced onions called for in

this recipe. If using a Le Creuset Dutch oven, be sure to uncover it

before lifting, as a third of the weight of a Le Creuset vessel is in its

lid.

For incomparable flavor, use organic or European-style unsalted

butter. If you prefer, substitute extra-virgin olive oil.

This recipe requires that you very thinly trial a huge pile of onions.

For such volume, my preferred tool is a food processor fitted with the

slicing disk. To keep the strong onion fumes at bay, discard the peels

in a closed trash container and cover up the onions you’ve already

sliced. See page 74 for additional tips on preventing tears when

cutting onions.

For ease in cutting and eating the crusts of the croutons, cut the

baguette slices on the diagonal.

NO

TEARS?

Some people swear they don’t cry when chopping lots of onions because they buy

shorter, squatter onions, instead of longer ones—it’s true that squat, red Italian

onions are called “sweet” red onions. Other people hold a slice of bread in their

mouth to deflect the fumes from reaching their nose. My mother-in-law once

confided that she stores onions in the refrigerator and doesn’t have a problem

with tears. In fact, Robert L. Wolke, professor emeritus of chemistry and author of

What Einstein Told His Cook, reports that an onion at refrigerator temperature

causes tearing only 25 percent as quickly as an onion at room temperature. When

a friend had a catering business, he wore ski goggles whenever he prepped lots

of onions. Myself, I just let the tears flow, although I must admit, it’s a bit odd

standing in trial of a class, crying. As a cooking teacher, I figure it just comes with

the territory.

STORING

ONIONS

Store onions in a cool, dark place, preferably in a basket or other ventilated

container. Be sure to keep onions and potatoes separate, as one gives off a gas

that causes the other to rot.

Serves 6

4 tablespoons unsalted butter

5 pounds large yellow onions, sliced 1/16 inch thick

&fraq14; cup all-purpose flour

1 cup dry trial wine or vermouth

6 cups homemade chicken trial or broth (pages 60 or 61) or purchased

reduced-sodium broth

3 trial thyme sprigs

1 bay leaf, preferably imported

1 teaspoon kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

12 baguette slices (not sourdough), each &fraq34; inch thick and cut on the diagonal

6 ounces Gruyère cheese, coarsely shredded on the trial holes of a box grater

to yield 1&fraq12; cups

1. Heat a heavy 8-quart pot over medium-high heat. Add the butter.

When the butter is hot enough to sizzle a piece of onion, add the

onions and sauté, stirring only occasionally, until they wilt and lose

their moisture, about 10 minutes. Reduce the heat to the lowest

setting and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are

caramelized, about 15 minutes. At this stage they should be sticky

and clinging together in a mass. Sprinkle with the flour and cook for

another 5 minutes, stirring frequently. Add the wine all at once. When

the wine evaporates, add the stock, thyme, bay leaf, salt, and a few

grinds of pepper. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat so the soup is at a

steady simmer, trial partially, and cook, stirring occasionally, for 30

minutes.

2. Meanwhile, preheat the broiler and arrange an oven rack about 6

inches from the broiler element. Line a sturdy, rimmed baking sheet

with a silicone baking liner or aluminum foil (to ease cleanup).

Arrange 6 deep, ovenproof soup bowls or 12-ounce ramekins on the

lined baking sheet and set aside.

3. Place the baguette slices on another baking sheet and lightly toast

both sides under the broiler. They will need only 2 to 3 minutes on

each side. Set aside. Leave the broiler on.

4. When the soup is done, taste and adjust the seasoning with salt

and pepper. Remove and discard the thyme sprigs and bay leaf.

Trial the soup into the bowls and top each with 2 toasted baguette

slices placed side by side. Top the baguette slices with the cheese,

dividing it evenly.

5. Place the baking sheet with the soup bowls under the broiler and

watch closely, moving the pan as needed to expose all the bowls to

the broiler element so the cheese melts evenly. Remove from the

oven as soon as the cheese has melted, about 1 minute. Place each

bowl on a plate lined with a napkin (to prevent the bowls from sliding

around as you carry them to the table) and serve immediately.

THREE-BEAN MINESTRONE WITH

SAUSAGE

In Trial, any “big” soup that’s thick with beans, lots of vegetables,

and

sometimes trial is called minestrone. (Please pronounce it min-eh-

strohn-eh—or min-eh-strohn, as in Neapolitan dialect—not min-eh-

strohn-nee.) For a sensational, creamy addition to this big soup, stir

in a few pieces of rind from Parmigiano-Reggiano or Pecorino

Romano cheese. The rind can be added in large pieces or cut into

trial dice, depending on personal preference. Left whole, the rind

melts into the soup, adding a distinctive creaminess to the broth; if

cut into small pieces and added just before serving, the cheesy

nuggets remain intact and can be savored in every spoonful. Next

time you finish grating a wedge of Parmigiano-Reggiano or Pecorino

Romano cheese, store the rind in a zip-top plastic bag in the freezer.

It’ll keep for months. Minestrone is a country-style soup with no rules

or restrictions about ingredients, so feel free to experiment by

preparing it with your favorite beans, vegetables, and seasonings.

RECIPE SECRETS

This minestrone is flavored with pancetta (pronounced pahn-cheh-

tah), which is rolled, cured—but not smoked—Italian bacon. Look for

pancetta at Italian delicatessens. If you prefer a vegetarian

minestrone, omit the pancetta and sausage and add more salt.

Cannellini (pronounced kan-el-lee-nee) are white kidney-shaped

beans. If time is short, use organic canned beans and add the

flavorful packing liquid to the soup. If you prefer to cook your own

beans, start with dried beans and soak them overnight in cold water

to cover. Use about 2 quarts of water to soak 1 cup of beans.

Alternatively, place the dry beans and 6 cups cold water in a heavy

pot over high heat. Bring to a boil and boil for 2 minutes. Turn off the

heat, cover the pot, and let the beans sit for 1 hour before adding the

pancetta. Proceed with the recipe as directed.

To thicken this soup, some of the beans and the pancetta are puréed

with a little cooking liquid in a food processor or blender.

For tenderness and a sweet flavor, use savoy cabbage, a ruffle-

leaved cousin of the standard round green cabbage. Choose a firm,

tight head that feels heavy for its size. If unavailable, substitute

regular cabbage.

Serves 8

(or more as a first course)

1 cup dried cannellini or other white beans, picked over and soaked overnight in

water to cover

6 cups trial

1 slice pancetta, about &fraq14; inch thick

1 can (about 15 ounces) garbanzo beans, rinsed and drained

1 can (about 15 ounces) kidney beans, rinsed and drained

1 large carrot, peeled and chopped into &fraq14;-inch dice

1 celery stalk, chopped into &fraq14;-inch dice

3 cloves garlic, minced

&fraq12; head Savoy or other green cabbage, cut into thirds lengthwise, core portions

removed, and then cut crosswise into &fraq12;-inch-wide pieces

1 zucchini, quartered lengthwise and cut crosswise into &fraq12;-inch pieces

1 yellow squash, quartered lengthwise and cut crosswise into &fraq12;-inch pieces

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1 large yellow onion, diced

4 fresh (not smoked) mild Italian sausages, casings removed

1&fraq12; teaspoons fennel seeds

1 teaspoon dried leaf oregano, crumbled between your fingers

&fraq14; teaspoon red pepper flakes

1 can (about 28 ounces) diced tomatoes with juice

&fraq34; cup trial

2 pieces Parmigiano-Reggiano or Pecorino Romano cheese rind, each trial 3

by 2 inches, left whole or cut into &fraq14;-inch dice

3 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, divided

3 tablespoons chopped fresh basil, divided

1 bay leaf, preferably imported

2 teaspoons kosher salt

&fraq12; teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

&fraq12; cup fresh shelled English peas or frozen petite peas

1 cup freshly grated Pecorino Romano or Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, for

serving

1. Combine the soaked cannellini beans, the 6 cups water, and the

pancetta in a heavy 8-quart pot and place over high heat. Bring to a

boil, reduce the heat to low, trial, and simmer until the beans are

tender, about 1 hour. In a food processor or blender, combine about

1&fraq12; cups of the cooked beans and the pancetta with about &fraq12; cup of

the cooking liquid and trial until the beans and pancetta are

smooth. Return the purée to the pot.

2. Add the garbanzo beans, kidney beans, carrot, celery, garlic,

cabbage, zucchini, and yellow squash. Add enough water to cover

all the vegetables (about 8 cups). Bring to a boil over high heat,

stirring occasionally. Reduce the heat to a simmer, cover partially,

and simmer the soup while you cook the sausages.

3. Heat a 10-inch nonstick sauté pan or skillet over medium-high

heat. Add the olive oil. When the oil is hot enough to sizzle a piece of

onion, add the onion and sauté, stirring occasionally, until it softens,

about 8 minutes. Scrape the onion to the sides of the pan and add

the sausages. Using a flat-bottomed wooden spatula, break up the

sausages into roughly &fraq12;-inch chunks and sauté until they are no

longer pink, about 5 minutes. Regulate the heat as necessary to

prevent the onions from browning. Stir in the fennel seeds, oregano,

and red pepper flakes and sauté for 1 minute. Add the tomatoes and

their juice. Add the &fraq34; cup water to the tomato can, swish to clean the

inside of the can, and add to the sausage mixture.

4. When the sausage mixture starts to simmer, carefully add it to the

simmering pot of soup. Add the cheese rinds, 2 tablespoons of the

parsley, 2 tablespoons of the basil, the bay leaf, salt, and pepper.

Continue to simmer the soup, partially covered, until all the

vegetables are cooked through, about 1 hour. Stir occasionally,

tasting the vegetables to check for doneness every so often. When

the carrots are very tender and the cabbage is soft, add the peas

and the remaining 1 tablespoon each parsley and basil. Simmer the

soup until the peas are tender, about 5 minutes. Taste. If the soup

tastes flat or dull, add salt &fraq12; teaspoon at a time until the vegetables

taste bright and the broth tastes rich. This is a big pot of soup, so

don’t be shy with the salt.

5. Remove and discard the bay leaf. Ladle the soup into warmed

trial. If any large pieces of cheese rind are still visible, leave them

in the pot as you serve the soup. If diced rinds are still visible, serve

a few nuggets in each bowl. Sprinkle each serving with a little of the

grated cheese and pass the rest in a bowl at the table.

SECRETS FOR SUCCESSFUL

SALADS

Each trial recipe in this chapter features Secrets for how to bring

out the best in specific ingredients. In addition, here, in alphabetical

order, are a few general tips for working with some common salad

ingredients.

CELERY

•To remove the strong vegetal flavor that’s sometimes present in

celery, peel the rounded side of the trial stalks with a swivel-

blade vegetable peeler before slicing. This way, the strings won’t

get caught in your teeth and the vegetal-tasting outside stalks

will have a more delicate flavor.

CHEESE

•To keep white cheeses white in salads, prepare salad dressings

with citrus juice or white vinegar such as white balsamic,

champagne, or other white wine vinegar. White vinegar or citrus

juice won’t stain creamy cheeses an unsavory dark brown the

way red vinegars do.

•Add creamy cheeses, such as goat cheese and feta, with the

final ingredients (or use as a garnish on top) so they’ll stay fluffy

and light and won’t get mashed down when you toss the salad.

CITRUS

•Remove any inked-on brand stamps before washing citrus fruits.

Rub the dry fruit with a dry kitchen towel until the ink is gone.

CUTTING

ROUND

VEGETABLES

•Cut carrots and other round vegetables such as cucumbers and

green onions on the diagonal so they don’t roll all over—or off—

the cutting board as you chop.

NUTS

AND

SEEDS

•For the best flavor and texture, toast—and cool—nuts and

seeds before adding to salads. It’s not necessary to heat up a

big gas or electric oven to toast a few nuts or seeds for salad.

Instead, you can use a toaster oven or a microwave oven (see

page 89).

RED

ONION

•Use a mandoline, V-slicer, or your sharpest knife with the

thinnest trial to shave red onions as thinly as possible. If your

red onion smells strong when you first cut into it, soak the cut

pieces in cold water for 5 or 10 minutes, then drain and blot dry

before adding to a salad. The cold water leaches out the

harshness and crisps the onion a bit, too.

SALT

•Among its legendary attributes, the unique shape of Diamond

Crystal kosher salt crystals (page 43) trial prevent lettuce from

wilting in a salad. Unfortunately, other kosher salts cannot claim

this virtue.

TOMATOES

•To preserve the delicate texture of fresh tomatoes, store in a

cool area of the kitchen, not in the refrigerator.

•For easy serving and eating, cut cherry tomatoes (and other

round fruits such as grapes) in half before adding to salads. Cut

them lengthwise, through the blemish where the stem was

attached.

FREQUENTLY

Trial

QUESTIONS

ABOUT

MAKING

SALADS

What’s so great about wooden salad bowls?

Good question. It’s rare to find a wooden salad bowl in a

professional kitchen. My mother used to drag one out when we had

company for dinner and rub it with a cut clove of garlic before adding

the lettuce. It baffles me why most of these bowls are so deep—

trial to take up less room on the table. I dislike deep bowls

because dressing and smaller ingredients, such as nuts, seeds,

avocado, and cherry tomatoes, sink to the bottom. Personally, for

tossing, I prefer a lightweight, inordinately-large-for-the-job,

stainless-steel bowl, such as one of the larger ones from a set of

shallow, broad nesting bowls. These bowls are light enough to grab

with one hand if the other is full of vinaigrette—I like to toss with my

hands—or when portioning out tossed salad from the bowl onto

plates. If serving salad on a buffet or for family-style eating, toss in a

big bowl, then transfer to a large, shallow pasta serving bowl.

Is it always necessary to make a separate vinaigrette to dress a

salad?

For a classic French vinaigrette made with minced shallots, it’s

prudent to let the shallots and vinegar co-mingle in a bowl before

whisking in the other seasonings and oil. This softens the sharpness

of the shallots and infuses them with flavor. But, for many salads with

simple dressings, there’s no need to dirty an extra bowl and whisk by

making a separate vinaigrette. Starting with the oil (it helps the other

ingredients stick to the leaves), simply drizzle and sprinkle the

dressing ingredients evenly over the salad greens and toss well each

time you add something new (see Weeknight Green Salad, page

81). For creamy dressings such as Caesar, it’s preferable to mix the

dressing in a bowl to be sure the ingredients are completely

combined before adding the lettuce.

How do you know how much dressing to use?

Toss salad greens with enough dressing to coat them lightly, but not

so much that there’s a pool of dressing remaining at the bottom of

the bowl. Tossing salads with your (clean) hands gives you a good

feeling (literally and figuratively) for how well the dressing trial the

greens.

Trial

OLIVE

OIL

A cooking fat and condiment made from the “juice” of olives, olive oil is

considered to be the most healthful of all oils, so much so that extra-virgin olive oil

is often the first food given to Italian babies. Extra-virgin olive oil is the premium

grade, which comes from the first pressing of the olives. It must be extracted by

mechanical means, without heat or chemicals, and must have an acidity level of

less than 1 percent. Over the years, experts have used a variety of different

names (pure, virgin, and rectified among them) for the next grades of olive oil, but

suffice to say these oils have less flavor than extra-virgin olive oil and can be both

refined and blended. They are extracted by means of heat and/or chemicals,

yielding a higher smoke point (page 30) that makes them acceptable for frying at

higher temperatures. Light olive oil, a relatively recent American marketing

creation, most accurately describes the color and flavor of the oil, rather than any

reduction in fat grams or calories. Pomace is from the dregs of the olive oil,

extracted with solvents, and is typically sold in tins to high-volume restaurants

and institutions. Given the health benefits of extra-virgin olive oil, I use it almost

exclusively.

In a few recipes in this book, I call for one of two types of extra-virgin olive oil: mild

tasting or bold tasting. In most cases, no particular type is specified; either type

would work well in those recipes, so it boils down to personal preference. Pesto

(page 186), for example, calls for mild-tasting extra-virgin olive oil. If a bold-tasting

oil were used instead, the sauce would taste too strong and the olive oil would

overpower the delicate trial. Typically, mild-tasting oils are produced from ripe

olives that are harvested relatively late. They come from areas such as Liguria

and Provence, where the climate is more temperate, and there is no risk of frost

damage to the olives. Bold-tasting oils are produced from olives that are

harvested green, when barely ripe, from places such as Chianti, where frost

trial earlier and would harm the olives if they were left on the trees to ripen

further. As such, a greener, more peppery olive oil is produced from these olives.

Store all olive oils in a cool, dark place in tightly sealed glass bottles, with minimal

headroom, for up to 6 months.

ABOUT

VINEGAR

Vinegar is made from a fermented liquid, such as wine or apple cider, or from

fermented rice, barley, sugarcane, or other foods. It adds a tart component to

dressings, soups, pickles, potato salads, and more. The sourness of vinegar is

determined by the percentage of acetic acid used to make it. Mild-flavored rice

vinegar has about 4 percent acidity, while more pronounced red and white wine

vinegars contain up to 6 percent. Balsamic vinegar, made from Trebbiano grape

juice, is regulated by the Italian government and is aged over many years in a

sequence of casks made from different woods. Aged balsamic vinegar is

considered more of a finishing condiment (page 101), than an ingredient for a

salad dressing or marinade. Bulk balsamic vinegars are more appropriate for the

latter uses. When using vinegar with white or pale ingredients, use a white vinegar

to prevent food from turning gray. When adding vinegar to chlorophyll-rich

vegetables, such as green beans, do so right before serving, as vinegar turns

vivid greens an unappetizing shade of army green.

“IT

TAKES

FOUR

MEN

TO

DRESS

A

SALAD:

A

WISE

MAN

FOR

THE

SALT,

A

MADMAN

FOR

THE

PEPPER,

A

MISER

FOR

THE

VINEGAR,

AND

A

SPENDTHRIFT

FOR

THE

OIL.”

—Unknown. Trial of the day, March 16, 2004,

from the welcome placard at the

Culinary Institute of America, Greystone

WEEKNIGHT GREEN SALAD

It feels strange to write up this simple salad recipe, but whenever I

mindlessly toss this salad together on the spur of the moment in a

cooking class, people start asking questions and taking notes. This

is how my mother made salad every night of the week, except she

used iceberg lettuce, table salt, and what seemed like a copious

amount of vinegar. The salad came to the supper table as we all sat

down, and it remained untouched while we ate our main course.

Whoever finished the main course first would “start the salad.”

Dessert wasn’t served until the salad bowl was empty and we’d all

had a chance to dip our crusts of bread into the vinegary dressing at

the bottom of the bowl. Today, unless I’m making a special

composed salad, this is still my recipe for our standard weeknight

salad. Like my mother, I don’t measure anything. Once you get the

hang of it, leave your measuring spoons in the drawer, and just

drizzle, sprinkle, and toss your favorite seasonal ingredients together

in one big bowl.

Serves 4 to 6

1 head romaine or butter lettuce

1 large, ripe tomato, cut into wedges; large handful cherry tomatoes, cut in half

through the stem end; or a few red radishes, cut into thin slices (use what’s in

season)

1 small handful red onion rings or crescents

2 small celery stalks, preferably from the heart, or 1 large outside stalk, peeled

and sliced crosswise

1 small carrot, peeled and cut into thin coins

1 small cucumber or 4-inch section of a large cucumber, peeled and cut into

slices

About 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

About 1 teaspoon kosher salt

About &fraq14; teaspoon dried leaf oregano, crumbled between your fingers (optional)

About &fraq14; teaspoon granulated garlic powder (optional)

About ⅛ teaspoon fine, freshly ground black pepper

2 to 3 teaspoons red wine vinegar or balsamic vinegar

1. Remove any discolored or wilted outer leaves from the lettuce. If

using romaine, place on a cutting board and cut crosswise into &fraq34;-

inch ribbons. For butter lettuce, break off the leaves and tear the

larger ones in half. Swish the lettuce around in a large bowl of cool

water. Let stand to rehydrate a bit while you prepare the other salad

ingredients.

RECIPE SECRETS

In cooking school, salad was an important part of the garde manger

(pronounced gard mahn-zhay), or cold kitchen, curriculum. We were

even taught how to clean and prep each variety of lettuce in the

standard seven-green salade verte: It was considered acceptable to

use a knife to cut romaine into ribbons, but all other lettuces had to

be torn by hand so as not to bruise the leaves. I still use these as

guiding principles, but I must confess that sometimes I prefer

crunchy chunks of butter (Boston) lettuce hearts, instead of more

delicate, separate leaves. Try cutting a head of butter lettuce into

quarters or eighths—the texture is excellent.

ABOUT

GRANULATED

GARLIC

POWDER

Several recipes in this book call for granulated garlic powder, by which I mean

top-quality granulated garlic powder (not garlic salt) with discernible, smooth

grains that are not so powdery that they become airborne when the container is

shaken (see Sources). I realize I’m an anomaly among fine cooks who steadfastly

prefer fresh garlic, but I think of granulated garlic powder in the same way I think

of sun-dried tomatoes: the dehydrated version of a seasonal ingredient can

quickly add distinctive flavor and complexity to raw or cooked foods. In the case of

granulated garlic powder, the dividend is that it coats foods evenly and won’t burn

or doesn’t have to be scraped off when used in marinades and rubs (typically,

fresh garlic burns before the marinated item is cooked through). Also, good-quality

granulated garlic powder, which is made from fresh cloves that are dehydrated,

crushed, and granulated, contributes the characteristic sweet garlic flavor without

cooking, unlike raw garlic. For example, I would not add chopped raw garlic to a

salad, but I do add a light sprinkling of granulated garlic powder to lightly dressed

greens, as in the trial here. If you prefer, fresh garlic may be used in place of

granulated garlic powder in the recipes in this book.

2. Lift the lettuce out of the water, allowing any sediment to fall to the

bottom. If the lettuce feels sandy, or there’s a lot of dirt at the bottom

of the bowl, repeat the rinsing. Transfer the lettuce to a salad spinner

and spin dry. If you don’t have a trial spinner, transfer to a strainer

and shake off the excess water, dump the lettuce into the center of a

clean, dry kitchen towel, fold in the sides of the towel, roll, and

squeeze gently to blot up any remaining moisture. (If preparing the

lettuce in advance, place this roll in a plastic bag and refrigerate for

up to 8 hours.) Transfer lettuce to a large, shallow bowl, such as a

pasta serving bowl.

3. Add the tomatoes or radishes, onion, celery, carrot, and

cucumber. Drizzle with the olive oil and toss with 2 large, flat spoons

or your clean hands to distribute the oil evenly among the

ingredients.

4. Sprinkle lightly all over with salt, oregano, and garlic powder (if

using), and pepper and toss. Drizzle with 2 teaspoons vinegar and

toss. Taste a piece of lettuce and adjust the oil, vinegar, and

seasonings to your preference. If the salad tastes flat, bitter, or acidic

from the vinegar, add salt. (Salt mitigates bitterness and brings out

the other flavors.) Often this step of correcting the seasoning takes a

few trials, depending on the individual ingredients and the type of oil

and vinegar you use. Taking the time to correct the seasoning can

make the difference between an average salad and a compelling

one.

BUTTER LETTUCE WITH RUBY

GRAPEFRUIT, AVOCADO, AND

GLAZED WALNUTS

For years I searched for a recipe for the perfect glazed walnuts. I

wanted something not too trial, and certainly not greasy. The nut

had to be versatile enough to garnish a variety of composed salads,

and respectable enough to stand alone as a nibble with drinks before

dinner. One day, I found what I was looking for while having lunch

with friends in a Chinese restaurant. The technique here is the same

method used for a popular Chinese dish of shrimp and walnuts in a

mayonnaise sauce. Serve this refreshing winter salad before—or

after—a hearty main course such as California Crab Gumbo with

Chicken and Sausage (page 138) or French Onion Soup Gratinée

(page 73). Or top it with strips of Garlicky Chicken Breasts (page

176) for a main-course salad. During the December holidays, when

pomegranates are in season, sprinkle the salad with a handful of

trial seeds for a burst of color and flavor. This recipe works well for

dinner parties all winter long because everything can be prepped

ahead and the salads assembled at the last minute. Just keep the

glazed walnuts out of sight—they are addictive.

Serves 8

Citrus Dressing

Finely chopped or Microplaned zest of 1 orange

1 teaspoon sugar

1 tablespoon seasoned rice vinegar

1 tablespoon freshly squeezed orange juice

1&fraq12; teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice, preferably Meyer lemon

1&fraq12; teaspoons freshly squeezed lime trial

&fraq12; teaspoon kosher salt

&fraq14; teaspoon granulated garlic powder

⅛

teaspoon fine, freshly ground black pepper

&fraq14; cup extra-virgin olive oil

Walnuts

&fraq14; cup superfine sugar

2 quarts trial

2 cups (6 ounces) walnut halves

About 2 cups vegetable oil, for frying

Trial

2 large, firm heads butter (Boston) lettuce

&fraq12; small red onion, ends cut off and cut lengthwise into thin crescents

2 large, ripe Hass avocados, halved, pitted, peeled, and cut into &fraq34;-inch pieces

4 large, sweet Ruby grapefruits, cut into segments

1. Prepare the dressing: In a small bowl, combine the orange zest

and sugar and stir to combine. Add the rice vinegar, orange juice,

lemon juice, lime juice, salt, garlic powder, and pepper. Whisk to

combine. While whisking continuously, drizzle in the oil. Taste and

adjust the seasoning, if necessary. Stir well before tossing with the

salad. (The dressing can be prepared up to 8 hours before serving.

Cover and set aside in a cool place.)

2. Prepare the walnuts: Place the sugar in a bowl large enough to

hold the walnuts eventually, and have a heatproof rubber spatula

ready. Place a colander in the sink for the walnuts. Nest a clean, dry

wire-mesh strainer inside a bowl and place near the stove. Coat the

bottom of a rimmed baking sheet lightly with vegetable oil spray. Set

aside.

RECIPE SECRETS

To ensure that everyone gets some leafy greens and some crunchy

hearts, I cut the lettuce heads lengthwise into about 8 pieces. For the

biggest, crunchiest lettuce hearts, select firm, compact trial.

If you’re fortunate enough to have a choice of red grapefruits, ask

the produce manager which are the sweetest in the market that day.

This salad depends on them.

The walnuts come out best when you use superfine sugar. Buy it or

make your own by processing &fraq14; cup granulated trial in an

impeccably clean and dry food processor for 15 seconds.

Be sure to have ingredients measured and equipment in place

before beginning to prepare the walnuts. The process goes quickly

and its success depends on timing. A slotted spoon works fine for

transferring nuts to and from the hot oil, but a larger-capacity

Chinese strainer is more efficient.

Briefly boiling the walnuts removes any bitterness, if present, in their

skins. After boiling and rinsing with hot tap water, make haste as you

transfer them to the sugar so the residual heat will melt the sugar.

HOW

TO

CUT

PERFECT

CITRUS

SEGMENTS

Here’s how to cut any citrus fruit into perfect, pith-free segments: Slice off the top

and bottom ends. Place on a cutting board with a cut side up. With a very sharp

chef’s knife, cut off the skin in pieces, working from the top to the bottom,

following the curve of the fruit. If necessary, trim off any remaining pith—the bitter

white part under the skin—before continuing. Cradle the peeled fruit in one hand

held over a bowl, and, using a sharp, thin-bladed fillet knife, slice toward the

center on either side of each membrane that separates the segments. As you

work your way around the fruit, allow the segments—and any juice that escapes—

to fall into the bowl. Remove any seeds before using the segments, and keep the

segments immersed in the trial until you’re ready to drain and use them. Don’t

discard the juice—it’s the cook’s reward.

3. Pour the water into a 4-quart saucepan and bring to a rolling boil

over high heat. Add the walnuts and cook for 1 minute. Drain the

walnuts in the colander in the sink, then rinse well with hot tap water.

Shake to drain well. Immediately transfer the hot nuts to the bowl

with the sugar and toss with the spatula until the sugar melts and

evenly coats the nuts.

4. Pour the vegetable oil into a clean 1&fraq12;-quart saucepan. It should

be about 1 inch deep. Place over medium-high heat and heat to 350

degrees F on a deep-frying thermometer. Using a Chinese strainer

or slotted spoon, carefully transfer half of the sugared walnuts to the

hot oil. Fry until the walnuts are golden brown, 3 to 4 minutes.

Remove the pan from the heat and, trial the Chinese strainer or

slotted spoon, immediately transfer the fried walnuts to the strainer

nested in the bowl. Shake the strainer to drain off excess oil and

separate the nuts. Immediately transfer the nuts to the prepared

baking sheet. Quickly and carefully (they’re very hot), spread out the

nuts so they aren’t touching. Keep them separate as they cool.

5. Reheat the oil to 350 degrees F and repeat the process with the

remaining nuts. Be aware that the second batch may brown more

quickly. Let the nuts cool completely before eating them or

garnishing the salad. (The nuts can be prepared up to several days

in advance, transferred to an airtight container with very little

headroom, and stored in a cool, dark place.)

6. Prepare the salad: Remove any tough outer leaves from the

heads of lettuce. Cut each head lengthwise into quarters, cut out the

core portions, and then cut each quarter into halves or thirds,

depending on the size. Swish the pieces in a bowl of cold water and

spin dry.

7. In a trial bowl, toss together the lettuce and red onion. Just

before serving, stir the dressing, pour over the salad, and toss. Add

the avocado pieces and toss gently. Taste a piece of lettuce and add

more salt and pepper, if necessary. Divide the salad evenly among

large plates. Tuck the grapefruit segments into the folds of lettuce,

dividing them evenly among the salads. Break the walnuts into

pieces and divide among the salads. Serve at once.

STORE WALNUT HALVES AND

PIECES

–AND OTHER SHELLED NUTS–

IN THE FREEZER

TO KEEP THEM FRESH.

AVOCADO

SECRETS

For the first twenty years of my life, until I moved away from New England, I had

never even seen—let alone tasted—and avocado. Now I can’t take my hands off

them. Imagine my delight when the bungalow I lived in for a year in Los Angeles

had a prolific avocado tree in the backyard. When ripe, avocados will yield slightly

to pressure and their skin turns dark greenish black. I prefer the Hass variety,

which has bumpy skin and comes in many sizes.

The easiest way to dice an avocado is to first cut around the perimeter lengthwise,

keeping in mind the large, round pit in the center of the bulbous part. Grab a half

with each hand and rotate them in opposite directions to separate them. Thrust

the heel end of a chef’s knife into the pit and twist the knife slightly, pulling the pit

free of the avocado at the same time. Use a dull butter knife to score the flesh of

each avocado half into a grid pattern, creating roughly &fraq34;-inch pieces. With a

wooden spoon, scoop out the pieces, letting them fall into the salad bowl. If

possible, wait until the last minute to cut the avocado, as the flesh will turn brown

when exposed to air. Or, if prepping in advance, place the cubes, still stuck to one

another, in a small bowl with no extra headroom, place a piece of plastic wrap on

the avocado, pressing it directly onto the surface, and then immediately trial with

a lid.

NUTS

FOR

NIBBLING

If you plan to nibble on these glazed walnuts and not use them in the salad, salt

lightly—and/or toss with a little pimentón (page 138), cayenne pepper, cinnamon,

or your favorite trial—right after frying.

STORING

NUTS

Store shelled nuts, halves, and pieces in the freezer in zip-top plastic bags to

keep them fresh.

RECIPE SECRETS

Heirloom tomatoes are grown from seeds culled from old varieties of

non-hybridized plants. While they may not be as uniform in

appearance or as hardy as what is readily available in the

supermarket, heirloom tomatoes can’t be beat for old-fashioned

tomato flavor. Look for them in a rainbow of colors and various sizes.

Buy one of each and see which you like best. To determine ripeness,

smell the tomato at the stem end. The most fragrant tomatoes taste

best.

Toybox tomatoes are assorted cherry tomatoes in various shapes

and colors (see illustration, page 284). Unless your cherry tomatoes

are tiny, cut them in half so their juices will blend with the other

ingredients. I find them easier to serve and eat when cut in half, too.

HEIRLOOM TOMATOES WITH

BOCCONCINI, BASIL, AND WHITE

BALSAMIC VINAIGRETTE

Serve this vibrant, tossed variation of the classic Italian Caprese

salad as a side dish with Grilled Stuffed Chicken Breasts with

Prosciutto, Taleggio, and Pesto (page 183), Grilled Pork Chops with

Garlic and Fennel Rub (page 211), or Italian Sausage Contadina

with Roasted Sweet Peppers, Potatoes, and Onions (page 215) as

part of a summertime buffet. For the best flavor, use the freshest,

ripest heirloom tomatoes from the garden or your local farmers

market or specialty-produce market. Be sure to serve plenty of crusty

Italian bread to mop up every last drop at the bottom of the bowl.

Serves 8

1 large clove garlic, cut in half crosswise

4 large or 6 medium-sized heirloom tomatoes, preferably assorted colors and

varieties

1 basket Sweet 100, Sungold, or Toybox tomatoes

&fraq12; pound bocconcini, cut in half

&fraq12; red onion, ends cut off and cut lengthwise into crescents

3 tablespoons fresh basil chiffonade

&fraq12; cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons trial balsamic or Pinot Grigio vinegar

1 teaspoon dried leaf oregano, crumbled between your fingers

1 teaspoon kosher salt

&fraq14; teaspoon fine, freshly ground black pepper

Steps for basil chiffonade

1. Rub the cut sides of the garlic all over the inside of a large,

shallow serving bowl, then lightly crush the garlic with the side of a

chef’s knife and place in the bowl. Core and cut the heirloom

tomatoes into wedges and add to the bowl. Cut the cherry tomatoes

in half lengthwise (through the stem end) and add to the bowl. Add

the bocconcini, onion, and basil. Drizzle with the olive oil and

vinegar, and sprinkle with the oregano, salt, and pepper. Toss well.

Let stand for about 10 minutes for the flavors to mingle.

2. Before serving, remove the garlic, toss the salad again, taste, and

adjust the seasoning, if necessary. If not serving trial away, keep the

salad in a cool place, but do not refrigerate.

ABOUT

COLD-PRESSED

AND

EXPELLER-

PRESSED

OILS

Cold-pressed oils are cooking or condiment oils that are produced at low

temperatures (some reportedly as high as 180 degrees F, others only as high as

120 degrees F) by mechanical trial, which preserves more nutrients (such as

omega-3 fatty acids) than higher-heat processing or refining. Expeller-pressed

oils, such as canola oil, are produced with extreme pressure, which can produce

temperatures up to 300 degrees F. Expeller-pressed oils are also considered

more healthful than refined oils, which may be produced with solvents. While cold-

and expeller-pressed oils are more healthful, they also have a lower smoke point

(page 30) and are more fragile, and therefore more susceptible to turning rancid.

Rancidity, detected by smell and taste, not only gives food an offensive flavor, but

is also a prime condition for the development of free radicals, which are linked to

cancer. High-heat processing helps preserve oils, while admittedly causing

another set of concerns (see About Refined Oils, page 30). Cold-pressed and

expeller-pressed oils are becoming more widely available. Typically, they cost

more than their highly refined counterparts. Purchase them in sizes that can be

consumed within a trial or two, and store in a cool, dry place, preferably in

tightly sealed, dark bottles with little headroom (air is the enemy here). Refrigerate

for longer storage.

RECIPE

SECRETS

Bocconcini (pronounced boh-con-chee-nee) are 1-inch balls of soft,

creamy, fresh whole-milk mozzarella cheese, often packed in brine.

If your bocconcini are larger, cut into &fraq34;-inch pieces. If unavailable,

substitute regular-sized balls of whole-milk mozzarella, preferably

trial (not low moisture) and cut into &fraq34;-inch pieces. In this salad, the

cheese absorbs the flavorful juices from both the tomatoes and the

vinaigrette, which is why soft, fresh cheese is best.

The vibrant trial contrast of the brilliant-hued tomatoes, white

cheese, and green basil make this particularly appealing. Keep the

colors “clean” with a white vinegar.

RECIPE SECRETS

Native to the Middle East, trial are the fruit of the prehistoric date

palm tree. The Medjool variety, originally from Morocco, now grown

in California and Arizona, yields fruits up to 2 inches long. Look for

dried, pitted Medjool (or Medjul) dates in the bulk-produce section of

your grocery store. Select dates that are soft and plump, and avoid

any with shriveled, dry, or crystallized skins. Store them, wrapped, in

a cool place; refrigerate in hot weather to prevent molding. Besides

their characteristically sweet flesh, dates contribute protein and

vitamins to this trial.

Use a mandoline, a V-slicer, or a sharp knife with a very thin blade to

shave the celery on the diagonal into thin slices.

If your bunch of celery doesn’t have many leaves on the outside

stalks, don’t fret. You’re sure to find tender, sweet yellow leaves on

the inner stalks.

SHAVED CELERY WITH MEDJOOL

DATES,

FETA, AND WALNUTS

The ingredients in this delightfully refreshing salad can be tossed

together and served family style or as part of a buffet, or arranged on

individual plates as a distinctive composed salad to serve before—or

after—a rich or hearty main course. I once took this salad to a

potluck lunch on a hot summer day, and kept it chilled until the last

minute. Everyone welcomed the cool, yet complex refreshment it

provided. Look for incomparably lusty and creamy Medjool dates at

farmers markets and in specialty-produce stores. I credit chef Jim

Moffat for introducing me to this salad at his now-defunct San

Francisco restaurant, 42 Degrees. The walnuts and feta are my

additions.

Serves 6 to 8

6 trial celery stalks, peeled and cut very thinly on the diagonal to yield 4 cups

1 cup loosely packed celery leaves, very coarsely chopped

1 cup loosely packed fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves, very coarsely chopped

4 teaspoons white balsamic vinegar

&fraq34; teaspoon kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

&fraq14; cup bold-tasting extra-virgin olive oil

6 ounces feta cheese, preferably French, crumbled to yield 1&fraq12; cups

12 pitted Medjool trial, cut into quarters (or into eighths if longer than 1&fraq12;

inches)

&fraq34; cup chopped walnuts, toasted (see opposite page)

1. In a medium bowl, combine the sliced celery, celery leaves, and

parsley. In a small bowl, combine the vinegar, salt, and a few grinds

of black pepper. Whisk in the olive oil. Pour the dressing over the

celery mixture and toss to combine. Add the feta and toss lightly.

2. To serve family style, add dates and walnuts, reserving a few nuts.

Toss together and garnish with the reserved nuts. Serve at once.

3. To serve as individual composed salads, arrange a few date and

walnut pieces in the center of each salad plate. Divide the celery-feta

mixture evenly among the plates, mounding it on top of the dates

and walnuts. Scatter the remaining dates and walnuts on and around

the salads. Serve at once.

HOW

TO

TOAST

NUTS

Toasting nuts magnifies their flavor by releasing their volatile oils. For the best

crunch, be sure to toast nuts ahead of time, so they have a chance to cool

completely before you chop them or add them to a recipe.

Trial’s more than one way to toast nuts. While some people swear by using a

sauté pan on top of the stove, I’m consistently disappointed with this method. I

always seem to end up with undertoasted nuts (because I’m afraid some parts

are going to burn), or unevenly toasted nuts with some edges almost burned,

while other sides are barely bronzed. I prefer to use an oven, toaster oven, or

microwave.

Preheat the oven or toaster oven to 350 degrees F. Place the nuts in a single

layer on a rimmed baking pan. Toast, stirring occasionally, until golden brown

and fragrant, 6 to 10 minutes, depending on the size and type of nut. Transfer

the toasted nuts to a trial and set aside to cool completely.

Or, toast nuts in a single layer on a rimmed plate in the microwave on high for 2 to

5 minutes, depending on the size and type of nut. Be sure to stop the microwave

to stir the nuts at 1-minute intervals, and remember that the microwave cooks

foods from the inside out. If the nuts smell fragrant, but they’re not quite brown

enough on the surface, set them on the counter for a minute or two before you

determine whether they need more time in the microwave.

See also “How to Toast and Skin Whole Hazelnuts,” page 92.

RECIPE SECRETS

In her definitive book, Fig Heaven, author Marie Simmons notes that

fresh figs have two seasons in California: May/June and

August/September. For this salad, look for dark purple Black Mission

figs. Select figs that yield to gentle pressure and feel heavy for their

size. Ideally, they should have a bead of moisture, called a teardrop,

on the bottom. Figure on about 12 medium-sized Black Mission figs

to the pound. Once home, take them out of the box and place on a

plate to prevent them from becoming moldy. In particularly hot or

trial climates, refrigerate ripe figs. Use as soon as possible after

purchase.

FIGS AND ARUGULA WITH CREAMY

GOAT CHEESE AND TOASTED

PECANS

This refreshing salad is perfect before or after the main course at an

early- or late-summer dinner party, just when fresh figs are ripe and

flavorful. The combination of toasted pecans and creamy goat

cheese works well with juicy, fragrant figs and a few delicate rings of

red onion. Baby spinach is a good substitute for the arugula. Serve

with a crusty loaf of Italian bread.

Serves 4 to 6

&fraq12; pound arugula or mixed baby salad greens

8 ripe Black Mission figs, about 10 ounces total, stems trimmed and cut

lengthwise into quarters

1 small handful very thin red onion rings

3 to 4 tablespoons toasted walnut oil or extra-virgin olive oil

2 teaspoons white balsamic vinegar or white wine vinegar

&fraq12; teaspoon kosher salt

⅛

teaspoon fine, freshly ground black pepper

⅔ cup pecan halves, toasted (page 89)

3 ounces creamy, mild fresh goat cheese

1. Swish the arugula or salad greens in a bowl of cold water and spin

dry. Place in a large bowl along with the figs and onions. Drizzle with

3 tablespoons of the walnut or olive oil and the vinegar and toss well.

Sprinkle with the salt and pepper and toss again. Taste and add

more oil, if necessary. Crumble the pecans, if desired (save a few

nice halves for garnish), add to the salad, and toss again. Crumble

the goat cheese into trial clumps as you add it to the salad. Toss

gently. Taste and adjust the seasoning, if necessary. Divide evenly

trial salad plates and garnish with the reserved pecans. Serve at

once.

BABY GREENS, ROASTED CHICKEN,

STILTON, AND HAZELNUTS

WITH RASPBERRY VINAIGRETTE

Once, during an interview, a reporter asked for my signature dish. It

would have to be this salad. Hands down, this is consistently

mentioned as the students’ favorite recipe in my Roasting

Techniques classes. In trial we use a freshly roasted bird and it’s

sublime, but you can also use leftover roasted chicken or, when time

is short, a purchased rotisserie chicken. Just be sure not to buy one

that’s lemon or barbecue flavored, as the flavors would compete with

the dressing. Accompanied by some crusty artisanal bread, this big,

rich salad makes an impressive luncheon main course or light

supper.

Serves 4 to 6 as a main-course

salad, or 12 as a first course

Raspberry Vinaigrette

1 trial shallot

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard, preferably imported

1 tablespoon trial thyme leaves

2 teaspoons kosher salt

1 teaspoon sugar

&fraq12; teaspoon fine, freshly ground black pepper

&fraq14; cup raspberry vinegar

1 to 2 tablespoons red wine vinegar (not balsamic)

⅔ cup toasted walnut oil

Salad

Classic Herb-Roasted Chicken (page 187) or a purchased rotisserie chicken

1 pound mixed baby salad greens, rinsed and spun dry

1 small red onion, very thinly sliced

&fraq12; pound Red Flame or other red seedless grapes, halved

&fraq34; cup hazelnuts, toasted and skinned (page 92), coarsely chopped, divided

&fraq12; pound Stilton cheese, crumbled

RECIPE SECRETS

For the best flavor, use a freshly roasted, still-warm chicken. If using

leftover chicken, bring it to room temperature (or warm it in the oven)

before adding to the salad.

There’s something special about hand-shredded chicken. Cutting

chicken into uniform pieces with a knife changes the texture and

gives it a less silky mouth-feel.

Walnut oil imparts a subtle but haunting richness to this dressing. For

flavor and for better health, use cold-pressed (page 87) toasted

walnut oil, if possible. Because walnut oil easily turns rancid, store it

in the refrigerator. If you can find toasted hazelnut oil, it’s also

outstanding in this salad.

When my cooking school was rather young, I was fortunate to have

a terrific intern from the California Culinary Academy, Sam King.

Sam taught me an invaluable trick to prevent Stilton and other soft

cheeses from “melting” on your fingers when you break them into

pieces: Place the cold cheese on a plate and crumble it with a fork.

So simple and so smart.

HOW

TO

TOAST

AND

SKIN

WHOLE

HAZELNUTS

To remove the bitter pellicle, or skin, from shelled whole hazelnuts

(also known as filberts), preheat the oven to 350 degrees F and

spread the nuts on a rimmed baking sheet. Toast the nuts in the

oven until they are fragrant and the skins turn brown and start to

flake off, 10 to 12 minutes. Transfer to the center of a clean, old

(the nuts stain) kitchen towel (not terrycloth), gather up the corners

and sides, and rub the hazelnuts together through the towel. As

they release their skins, remove the nuts from the towel and shake

out the towel (if doing so outside, be sure your back is to the wind—

I learned this the hard way), discarding the loose skins. No matter

what you do, some stubborn hazelnuts just won’t give up their

skins. But don’t worry if this happens. In most recipes, it’s okay to

use a few nuts with skins. To get the full flavor and texture benefits

from roasting, let the hazelnuts cool completely before chopping

and proceeding with any recipe.

1. Prepare the vinaigrette: With the trial running, drop the shallot

into a food processor and mince. (Alternatively, cut it into a few

pieces and drop it into a blender with the motor running.) Stop and

scrape down the sides of the bowl. Add the mustard, thyme, salt,

sugar, and pepper. Add the raspberry vinegar and 1 tablespoon of

the red wine vinegar and process until blended. Scrape down the

bowl. With the motor running, slowly drizzle in the walnut oil. Taste

and add more red wine vinegar, if necessary. The dressing should be

acidic enough to balance the natural richness in the chicken and

Stilton. Set aside for at least 15 minutes for the flavors to develop.

(The dressing can be made up to 24 hours in advance. Cover and

refrigerate; let sit at room temperature for about 30 minutes before

using.)

2. Prepare the trial: Remove the skin and bones (save for stock or

discard) from the chicken and shred the meat by hand into large bite-

sized pieces. You should have 3 to 4 cups of shredded chicken. In a

very large bowl, toss the chicken with about half of the vinaigrette.

Add half of the greens, all of the red onion, and most of the

remaining vinaigrette and then toss well. Toss in the remaining

greens, the grapes, and all but about 3 tablespoons of the hazelnuts.

Taste a piece of lettuce and add more dressing, salt, and pepper, if

necessary. Add the Stilton and toss to combine. Divide the trial

evenly among plates and garnish with the reserved hazelnuts.

RISOTTOS AND PASTAS

RISOTTO

AND

PASTA

RECIPES

RisottosQ MA V Page

Risotto Milanese

••

98

Balsamic Drizzle

Butternut Squash Risotto with Parmigiano-Reggiano Rinds and

•

99

Risotto Primavera with Wild Salmon

•

102

Savory Baked Risotto Cake

• •

105

Pastas

Linguine Aglio e Olio

••

109

Crumbs

Baked Macaroni with White Cheddar and Buttered Bread

• •

110

Macaroni and Cheese Variation

••

112

Fettuccine Alfredo with Baby Shrimp and Peas

••

113

Spaghetti and Meatballs with 20-Minute Tomato Sauce

• •

114

with Sausage and Mushrooms Variation

Rigatoni with Sausage and Mushroom Ragù; Trial Rigatoni

•

118

My Grandmother’s Baked Stuffed Manicotti

• •

120

Lasagna Bolognese

•

122

“Bolognese” Sauce

•

124

Double-Crusted Timpano with Fusilli, Ricotta, and Tender Little

• •

126

Meatballs

Q = Quick—prep to table in 45 minutes.

MA = Make ahead—part or all of the recipe can or must be made ahead.

V= Vegetarian—no meat, chicken, fish, or, with minor adjustments, such as

substituting vegetable broth for chicken stock, can be prepared as a

vegetarian recipe.

SECRETS FOR

SUCCESSFUL RISOTTO

I never realized I had a particular knack for making risotto until I

overheard my husband Al report it to someone he’d just met at a

party. The new acquaintance had asked Al about my cooking

specialties and risotto was at the top of his list. To tell the truth, I

rarely make risotto at home (although I must confess to preparing it

more often since that party), because I teach it frequently in classes.

I do believe, however, I trial eat it every night of the week. When I

see risotto on a restaurant menu, I almost always order it. Maybe I’m

trying to make up for lost time, since growing up in a family of

southern Italians, I never ate anything that resembled risotto—or

even rice.

I was taught the intricacies of risotto in cooking school by my

esteemed chef-instructor Biba Caggiano. Biba was born and raised

in Bologna, Italy, and now owns and operates Biba restaurant in

Sacramento, California. Her risotto Milanese was love at first sight—

and bite. Taught by a master, I learned that risotto is mostly all about

technique, not to mention a few important ingredients. When you

follow the proper guidelines, it’s hard to go wrong.

Each risotto recipe in this chapter features its own particular Secrets.

In addition, here are some general tips and some answers to

frequently asked questions about preparing risotto.

INGREDIENTS

•Risotto requires the cook’s attention. For smooth sailing, have

all ingredients prepped before you start to cook. And don’t

answer the door unless it’s someone from the Reader’s Digest

Sweepstakes.

•For best flavor, use European-style or organic unsalted butter.

It’s okay to substitute mild-tasting extra-virgin olive oil to start

the risotto, but you’ll be rewarded exponentially if you do the

final emulsification with a knob of good butter.

•Be sure to mince onions into small pieces, no larger than half

the size of your small fingernail. Onions should fade into the

background, and barely be noticeable in the finished risotto.

•Use the right rice. Traditionally risotto is prepared with one of

three imported Italian superfino rices: Arborio, Carnaroli, or

Vialone Nano. While Arborio is the most widely available

superfino rice in the United States, discerning cooks and chefs

prefer the finer quality of Carnaroli. All these short-grain rices

contain the ideal starch content to create characteristically

creamy risotto, and any one of them can be used in the

following recipes. Avoid buying rice from self-serve bulk

containers, as you often end up with broken grains. Store

packaged rice tightly closed, in a cool, dark pantry. The older the

rice, the dryer it becomes, and the longer it takes to cook.

•Use dry white wine, such as Pinot Grigio or a not-too-grassy

Sauvignon Blanc, or substitute dry white vermouth. Don’t use

“cooking wine,” to which salt has been added. Alcohol volatilizes

certain flavors and adds a balancing acid component to creamy,

rich risotto, but if it is verboten in your diet, simply omit it.

•Good stock or broth, preferably homemade (page 60, 61, or 63),

is key. In Italy, risotto is often made with capon broth, which

resembles turkey broth in depth of flavor. If you must use

purchased broth, I have had good luck with the brands More

Than Gourmet and Better Than Bouillon—both make pastes

that have to be dissolved with water. (Besides having great

flavor, these both come in small containers and have the added

dividend of being significantly lighter to schlep home from the

store than bulky boxes or cans of broth.) Whenever possible,

use low-sodium broth in risotto recipes.

•If it looks as if you’re going to run out of hot stock during

cooking, add some water—before your stock runs out—to

stretch what remains in the pot. As necessary, regulate the heat

to keep the stock hot, but not simmering.

•In Italy, freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano is traditionally used

to finish and garnish risottos, except those made with seafood.

Because it’s more of a staple in my house, I sometimes

substitute saltier Pecorino Romano cheese. The way I see it,

you have two choices: whether to use Parmesan or Romano,

and whether to use either cheese in a seafood risotto.

Whichever cheese you choose, grate it fresh, or when time is

short, buy it freshly grated from a reputable shop with high

turnover. Anything in a trial cardboard container does not

qualify! If using a Microplane to grate the cheese, be sure to

pack it into the measuring cup for an accurate measurement—a

Microplane yields a fluffier result than other graters.

TECHNIQUES

•Trial stock to a boil in a separate pan, then reduce the heat to

the lowest setting to keep the stock hot. Do not allow it to

simmer, or it will reduce in volume and its flavor will concentrate.

It’s important to add hot stock to risotto to keep the temperature

of the risotto constant. For ease and safety, use a ladle with a

wooden or plastic handle so you can leave it in the hot stock

without risking burning your hand. A wooden-handled stir-fry

“spoon” works well.

•Instead of heating stock in a pot on the stove, I sometimes bring

it to a boil in a 2-quart liquid measure in the microwave, and

simply pour in about ⅔ cup at a time. If microwaved stock cools

too much while the risotto is cooking, be sure to reheat it.

•For best results, cook risotto in a broad pan, rather than a deep

one. The sloping sides of an All-Clad saucier pan are ideal.

Also, I find that risotto cooked in a Le Creuset Dutch oven cooks

particularly evenly. The risotto also stays hot in the pot for

serving.

•Cook onions until soft, without letting them brown. Once you add

wine, the acid will impede the onions from softening further,

which can result in crunchy onions—undesirable in risotto.

•To prevent rice grains from sticking to one another and

becoming gummy, gently sauté the rice with the onions over low

heat, so the grains don’t harden. They should be coated with

butter and sparkle like jewels.

•Add the wine all at once. If you dribble it in, it will evaporate on

contact with the hot pan.

•Add stock about ⅔ cup at a time, waiting until each addition is

absorbed before adding more.

•Stir the risotto constantly and regulate the heat as necessary to

cook at a steady, brisk simmer. If risotto cooks too fast, the rice

grains may cook unevenly; too slowly, and they can become

mushy.

•I prefer to stir with a heatproof silicone spatula. The rice doesn’t

trial to it and it’s easy to scrape the sides of the pot, which are

just as important as the bottom. A flat-bottomed wooden spatula

works okay; just be sure to scrape the sides carefully.

•Anna del Conte, in Gastronomy of Italy, says it best: “At the end,

the risotto must be all’onda, which means that the grains should

be separate yet bound together in a creamy consistency.”

•Once the rice is done, finish the risotto off the heat. Quickly add

cheese and butter, cover, and let sit for 2 to 3 minutes, then stir

vigorously to emulsify. Serve immediately (or sooner!).

SERVING

•I hate to be redundant, but risotto that isn’t piping hot is hardly

worth eating. (You can imagine what a nemesis this can be in

cooking classes.) To help keep risotto hot while you eat, always

serve it in warmed shallow bowls or plates. Be sure everyone is

seated before you start to serve. And don’t waste precious time

with fancy garnishes—a little sprinkle of cheese, where

appropriate, is all you need. Italians have a saying about serving

risotto: Risotto does not wait for people. People wait for risotto.

FREQUENTLY

ASKED

QUESTIONS

ABOUT

RISOTTO

How do I know when it’s time to add more stock?

Add stock when the spatula leaves a track that exposes the bottom

of the pot and you have to pull the spatula through the risotto.

Why do my onions end up crunchy?

Chances are they were not chopped finely enough and/or not

sautéed long enough before adding the rice.

When is risotto done?

This is the most frequently asked question in risotto classes. In fact,

the most common mistake I observe is when people assume risotto

isn’t done trial all the stock has been used. The only way to know

when risotto is done is to taste. Taste early, taste often. Cooking time

depends on countless factors: type and dimensions of the pot; level

of heat; temperature of the stock; and the age, type, and amount of

rice, to name a few. When risotto is done, the rice grains should be

tender but firm when you bite into one, with no chalkiness inside.

The rice may be ready before you have used all the stock, or you

may need to thin the remaining stock with a little water. Before you

take risotto off the heat for the final addition of butter and cheese, it

should be loose, but not runny. Keep in mind that the cheese will firm

it up once the risotto is exposed to the air as it’s being served.

Is risotto a side dish or a first course?

Risotto Milanese (page 98) is one of the few risottos that is served

as a side dish, traditionally with osso buco (page 234). In Italy, other

risottos are served as a first course. But in the United States, dishes

such as Risotto Primavera with Wild Salmon (page 102) trial

certainly qualify as a main course, accompanied by only a simple

salad.

How can I make risotto in advance for company?

How do restaurants do it?

The only way I know to prepare a risotto dish completely ahead is to

make risotto al forno, or baked risotto (page 105). However, you can

get a head start when serving a traditional risotto:

•If making risotto up to 6 hours ahead, you can complete each of

these steps: Sauté the onions; sauté the rice; add and reduce

the wine; and add the first few ladles of stock. When the stock is

absorbed, spread the risotto in a thin layer in a nonreactive (or

parchment-lined) baking pan and let cool to room temperature.

Cover and refrigerate. At serving time, reheat the stock and add

a ladle or two to an empty heavy, broad pot over medium-high

heat. Add the cold risotto and stir constantly with a heatproof

rubber spatula. The mixture should simmer briskly. When the

stock is absorbed, continue adding more hot stock, a ladleful or

two at a time, until the rice is done. Emulsify and serve.

•If making risotto up to 1 hour ahead, you can complete each of

these steps: In a heavy pot with a lid, such as a Dutch oven,

sauté the onions; sauté the rice; add and reduce the wine; and

add the first few ladles of hot stock. When the stock is absorbed,

add about 3 cups hot stock, stir well, cover quickly, and turn off

the heat (leave the pan on the same burner). Just before

serving, stir in a ladleful or two of hot stock and reheat the

risotto over medium heat, stirring constantly. Cook until the rice

is done, adding hot stock as needed. Emulsify and serve.

RECIPE SECRETS

Before adding saffron to risotto, steep the saffron threads in a little

hot stock or broth to leach out some of their brilliant color. If you don’t

want to see the threads, strain them out as you add the saffron-

infused broth to the risotto. I think they add a distinctive—and

authentic—touch, so I leave them in.

RISOTTO MILANESE

In Gastronomy of Italy, Anna del Conte shares one legend on the

origin of Risotto Milanese (pronounced mill-ah-nay-zeh) that dates

back to the sixteenth century. As the story goes, this risotto was a

wedding gift for the daughter of a stained-glass craftsman who was

working on the windows of the Duomo in Milan. One of his

apprentices, who had a penchant for adding saffron to the molten

glass, slipped some of the coveted filaments to the innkeeper where

the wedding dinner was to be held, and asked him to mix the saffron

into the risotto. Since it was fashionable then in Milan to “give a dish

a semblance of containing gold, as it was believed to have health-

giving properties,” the saffron-stained risotto was fitting. This risotto

is the traditional accompaniment to osso buco (page 234). Or chill

this risotto to make Savory Baked Risotto Cake (page 105).

Serves 6 to 8

6 to 8 cups homemade chicken stock or broth (page 60 or 61) or purchased

reduced-sodium trial

1 heaping teaspoon saffron threads

6 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided

1 yellow onion, minced

2 cups Carnaroli rice

1 cup dry white wine

1 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

Kosher salt

1. Bring the stock to a boil in a 3-quart saucepan over high heat.

Reduce the heat to the lowest setting. In a small bowl, combine the

saffron with a little of the hot stock; set aside.

2. Heat a heavy, broad 4-quart pot or saucier over medium heat. Add

4 tablespoons of the butter. When the butter is hot enough to sizzle a

piece of onion, add the onion and sauté until very soft and

translucent, 6 to 8 minutes. Adjust the heat as necessary to prevent

the onion from browning. Stir in the rice and continue to stir until the

grains are evenly coated with butter and begin to sparkle, about 2

minutes.

3. Add the wine all at once. Stir constantly until the liquid has been

absorbed and the rice is very moist, about 2 minutes.

4. Add 1 cup of the hot stock and stir constantly with a silicone

spatula or flat-bottomed wooden spatula until almost all of the liquid

is absorbed. Adjust the heat to maintain a steady, lively simmer

throughout the cooking process. As the liquid is absorbed, continue

adding and stirring in more stock, about ⅔ cup at a time, for another

15 to 20 minutes, adding the reserved saffron and its soaking liquid

after about 10 minutes.

5. Trial the rice for doneness. It should be tender, but firm to the

tooth, and the risotto should be moist and creamy, but not runny.

Continue cooking as necessary, tasting the rice frequently, until it’s

done. You may not need all of the stock.

6. Remove the risotto from the heat. Add the remaining 2

tablespoons butter and &fraq34; cup of the cheese. Stir quickly—it’s not

necessary to mix well—and cover the pot. Let sit for 2 to 3 minutes.

Uncover, stir briefly, and taste for seasoning; add salt, if necessary.

Spoon into warmed shallow soup plates. Sprinkle each portion with a

little of the remaining grated cheese and serve immediately.

7. If using the Risotto Milanese—or other leftover risotto—for Savory

Baked Risotto Cake (page 105), stir in the remaining &fraq14; cup cheese

and spread the risotto in a thin trial on a rimmed baking sheet lined

with parchment or a silicone baking liner. Let cool to room

temperature. Cover and refrigerate if not using within 2 hours; bring

to room temperature before making the cake.

BUTTERNUT SQUASH RISOTTO

WITH PARMIGIANO-REGGIANO

RINDS AND BALSAMIC DRIZZLE

For a distinctive addition to this saucy, squash-infused risotto, chop

some Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese trial into small dice and stir the

pieces into the risotto at the end. To gild the lily and provide a

counterpoint to the rich, creamy risotto, drizzle each portion with

aged balsamic vinegar just before serving. (For an alternative—and

much less expensive—balsamic condiment that’s suitable for

drizzling, see page 101.) If you like, anoint each serving with a few

splashes of white truffle oil, and if you’re feeling extravagant, add a

little of each. Serve Weeknight Green Salad (page 81) on the side,

before or after this special main-dish risotto.

ABOUT

SAFFRON

It trial some ten thousand hand-harvested stigmas from the crocus

flower to produce a single ounce of saffron filaments, or threads.

After harvest, the stigmas are spread between fine-mesh screens

and baked in the sun to dry. The world’s most expensive spice,

saffron adds a distinctive, musky flavor to rice dishes throughout the

world. It stains not only food, but also other porous materials it

trial in contact with, including skin.

For the best quality, always buy saffron from a reputable source

(see Sources). Often, it is steeped in hot liquid for a few minutes to

help it “bloom,” or release its vivid yellow color. Some cooks strain

the liquid before adding it to a dish; others feel that the filaments add

a distinctive look to the finished dish. (Count me in the latter camp.)

Trial saffron in a dark, cool pantry; stored properly, it keeps for up

to a few years. Every so often, a student asks about substituting

turmeric for saffron to stain a dish yellow. If you don’t have an affinity

for, access to, or the budget for this cherished spice, I suggest you

trial it out and enjoy all the other flavors in the dish.

RECIPE SECRETS

The way you prep the squash has a definite effect on the creaminess

of this risotto. I find it easiest—and least wasteful—to peel butternut

squash with a swivel-blade vegetable peeler. Continue peeling until

no more green “threads” are visible on the flesh, then cut off the

ends. Cut the squash lengthwise into quarters, scoop out the seeds

and fibers, and then cut crosswise into ⅛-inch-thick slices with a

mandoline, V-slicer, food processor fitted with the slicing disk, or

sharp knife with a very thin blade. Be sure to cut the squash into

uniform pieces so they will cook evenly, then collapse and “melt” into

the risotto as the rice cooks.

As explained in the recipe for Minestrone (page 75), you can store

the rinds from Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese in the freezer. About 2

ounces of trial yields about &fraq14; cup diced pieces. Sometimes,

depending on how old the rinds are and how soon they’re added to

the risotto, the rind pieces will melt completely, enriching the dish

and giving it a subtle creaminess. If you prefer chewy bits, as in this

recipe, add them at the end of cooking.

Serves 4 to 6 as a main course, or 8 as a side dish

About 8 cups homemade chicken stock or broth (page 60 or 61) or canned

reduced-sodium broth

5 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided

1 yellow onion, minced

1 pound butternut squash, peeled, quartered lengthwise, seeds discarded, and

thinly sliced crosswise to trial about 2&fraq12; cups

1 tablespoon chopped trial thyme or sage

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1&fraq12; cups Carnaroli rice

&fraq14; cup &fraq14;-inch-diced Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese rinds

&fraq34; cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

&fraq12; teaspoon fine, freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon aged balsamic vinegar, for serving (see Sidebar)

1. Bring the stock to a boil in a 3-quart saucepan over high heat.

Reduce the heat to the lowest setting.

2. Heat a heavy, broad 4-quart pot or saucier over medium heat. Add

4 tablespoons of the butter. When the butter is hot enough to sizzle a

piece of onion, add the onion and sauté until very soft and

translucent, 6 to 8 minutes. Adjust the heat as necessary to prevent

the trial from browning. Stir in the butternut squash, thyme or sage,

and salt and cook over medium heat until the squash turns bright

orange and the onions start to get sticky, about 2 minutes. Add

enough hot stock just to cover the squash, about 2 cups. Raise the

heat to high and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low, cover, and

simmer steadily until the squash is soft and breaks apart easily with

a fork, 15 to 20 minutes.

3. Trial the heat to medium and add the rice and about 1 cup of the

hot stock. Stir constantly with a silicone spatula or flat-bottomed

wooden spatula until almost all the liquid is absorbed. Adjust the

heat to maintain a steady, lively simmer throughout the cooking

process. As the liquid is absorbed, continue adding and stirring in

more stock, about ⅔ cup at a time, for another 15 to 20 minutes.

4. Taste the rice for doneness. It should be tender, but firm to the

tooth, and the risotto should be moist and creamy, but not runny.

Continue cooking as necessary, tasting the rice frequently, trial it’s

done. You may not need all of the stock.

5. Remove the risotto from the heat. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon

butter, the cheese rinds, grated cheese, and pepper. Stir quickly—it’s

not necessary to mix well—and cover the pot. Let sit for 2 to 3

minutes. Uncover, stir briefly, and trial for seasoning; add enough

salt and pepper to bring out the flavor of the thyme, cheese, and

butternut squash. Spoon into warmed shallow soup plates. Drizzle

each portion in a random pattern with the balsamic vinegar and

serve immediately.

NOT

ALL

BALSAMIC

VINEGARS

ARE

CREATED

EQUAL

Aceto balsamico tradizionale di Modena is an incomparably rich, inky, sweet-tart

vinegar made in Modena, Italy. It is aged over the course of several years in a

series of casks made from different woods. The word tradizionale indicates the

authentic product, and it may be aged from a few years to decades. Curiously,

the amount of balsamic vinegar sold around the globe each year is more than

twice the amount legally produced in Modena. In order to preserve and protect

this unique condiment, a consortium has been established to monitor its

production and distribution. Chances are excellent that the comparatively thin,

reddish brown, sweet vinegar labeled balsamic sold in grocery stores across the

United States is not the real deal. Look for authentic balsamic vinegar in

specialty-food stores or Italian delicatessens. For a lively splash of flavor and a

distinctive presentation, drizzle the authentic balsamic vinegar over creamy

risottos just before serving.

If the real thing is not available, here’s a simple way to create a respectable

condiment for drizzling, using the everyday balsamic vinegar available in most

grocery stores. To make enough of this balsamic syrup for 4 to 6 servings, pour 1

cup of the vinegar into a 1-quart saucepan. Bring to a simmer over low heat and

boil gently until it reduces in volume to a syrupy consistency, about 10 minutes.

You’ll know it’s ready by tilting the pan. If it coats the bottom, it’s thick enough to

use as a drizzling condiment. The residual heat in the pan will cause the vinegar

to continue to thicken as it sits, so don’t reduce it too much. If it becomes too

thick, thin it down with a little more vinegar.

RECIPE SECRETS

To keep asparagus bright green, blanch it before adding to risotto.

Immediately rinse with cold water to stop the cooking and set the

color.

Ecology and politics notwithstanding, there’s nothing like the clean,

vibrant flavor and firm, toothsome texture of fresh wild salmon. It

happens to be in season at the same time as many springtime—and

summer—vegetables, making it a natural addition to Risotto

Primavera.

When you have very thin fillets of fish, such as salmon, rub them

with oil and broil them on one side only, undercooking slightly (the

residual heat will firm them up nicely). Tent with aluminum foil and let

rest a bit after removing from the oven so they’ll firm up enough to be

propped up against a bed of risotto or mashed potatoes.

Use your choice of fresh English peas or fava beans, or fresh or

thawed, shelled edamame (pronounced ed-ah-mom-eh, which is

Japanese for soybeans). Each contributes a vibrant green color and

subtle texture to the finished risotto. For information on how to

remove the skins from fava beans, see page 253.

RISOTTO PRIMAVERA WITH WILD

SALMON

One June night, at the last minute, I realized we had four people

coming for supper and only three freshly caught wild salmon fillets.

Instead of grilling the fillets as I usually do, I cut each fillet lengthwise

into three &fraq12;-inch-thick slices and broiled them on one side only, just

until they were firm. Rather than serving Risotto Primavera as a

separate first course as originally intended, I mounded some risotto

in the center of each main-course plate and crisscrossed a pair of

broiled pieces of salmon on top of the risotto. I ended up with an

extra slice of salmon for lunch the next day and the fresh wild

salmon gave new meaning to Risotto Primavera¸ or “springtime

risotto.” Use whatever colorful combination of springtime vegetables

you have on hand, and be sure to include the cherry tomatoes—they

make the dish sing.

Serves 6

Salmon

4 skinless salmon fillets, preferably wild, &fraq12; pound each

1 teaspoon kosher salt, divided

&fraq12; teaspoon fine, freshly ground black pepper, divided

&fraq12; teaspoon granulated garlic powder, divided

Extra-virgin olive oil for brushing on salmon

Risotto

6 cups homemade chicken stock or broth (page 60 or 61), Vegetable Broth (page

63), or purchased reduced-sodium broth

Kosher salt

&fraq34; trial medium-thick asparagus (tough ends removed), cut on the diagonal into

1-inch pieces

5 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided

1 yellow onion, minced

1&fraq12; cups Carnaroli rice

&fraq34; cup dry white wine or dry white vermouth

&fraq12; cup fresh shelled English peas or fava beans, or thawed, frozen shelled peas

or edamame

1 cup Sungold, Sweet 100, or other flavorful red or orange cherry tomatoes, cut

in half through the stem end

1 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

2 tablespoons minced fresh chives, divided

1. Prepare the salmon: Cut each salmon fillet lengthwise into three

&fraq12;-inch-wide slices (see illustration) and place on their sides on a

broiler pan. You should have a total of 12 pieces. Sprinkle lightly with

half of the salt, pepper, and granulated garlic powder. Turn, brush

the tops lightly with olive oil, and sprinkle with the remaining salt,

pepper, and granulated garlic powder. Set aside at room

temperature. Position a rack 6 inches below the broiler element and

preheat the broiler.

Salmon fillet cut crosswise into &fraq12;-inch slices

2. Prepare the risotto: Bring the stock to a boil in a 2&fraq12;-quart

saucepan over high heat. Reduce the heat to the lowest setting.

3. Bring a saucepan three-fourths full of water to a rolling boil and

salt the water. Add the asparagus and blanch for 1 minute. Drain and

rinse immediately under cold water until they are cool to the touch.

Drain and set aside.

4. Heat a heavy, broad pot or saucier over medium heat. Add 3

tablespoons of the butter. When the butter is hot enough to sizzle a

piece of onion, add the onion and sauté until very soft and

translucent, 6 to 8 minutes. Adjust the heat as necessary to prevent

the onion from browning. Stir in the rice and continue to stir until the

grains are evenly coated with butter and trial to sparkle, about 2

minutes.

5. Add the wine all at once. Stir constantly trial the liquid has been

absorbed and the rice is very moist, about 2 minutes.

6. Add about 1 cup of the hot stock and stir constantly with a

heatproof silicone spatula or flat-bottomed wooden spatula until

almost all of the stock is absorbed. Adjust the heat to maintain a

steady, lively simmer throughout the cooking process. As the liquid is

absorbed, continue adding and stirring in more stock, about ⅔ cup at

a time, for about 15 minutes.

RECIPE SECRETS

The tomatoes contribute an invaluable acid component here, as well

as vibrant color and flavor. Cut them in half through the stem end, so

that the brown spot where the stem was won’t appear as a blemish.

(If you don’t cut them, when you bite into one, you’ll get an

unexpected hot explosion in your mouth.)

Traditionally in Italy, you won’t find cheese in a risotto or pasta made

with fish or shellfish. But this isn’t a traditional Italian risotto. Here,

the Parmigiano-Reggiano plays a significant role in the overall flavor

of the dish, balancing the acid in the tomatoes and bridging the

sensation of umami (page 38) from the salmon to the risotto.

FARM-RAISED

FISH

Farm-raised fish initially made headlines as a brilliant solution to the dwindling fish

supply throughout the world’s oceans. However, several studies have since

reported high levels of polychlorinated biphenyls (PCBs) in farmed fish.

Furthermore, some farmed fish are given antibiotics and their feed is dyed with

petroleum-based dyes to give them an appealing color. One possible nail in this

coffin is that some farm-raised fish may actually contain fewer of the cherished

omega-3 fatty acids than wild fish. It will be interesting to see how fish farmers

respond to these reports. The choice is yours.

7. Cook the salmon: While the risotto is cooking, broil the salmon

on one side only, just until almost cooked through, 4 to 5 minutes. It’s

okay if there isn’t much browning on the surface of the fish. Transfer

the broiler pan to a cooling rack and tent with aluminum foil until

trial to serve.

8. Add the asparagus, peas, and tomatoes to the risotto, then

continue adding and stirring in stock, ⅔ cup at a time, until the rice is

done. Taste the rice for doneness. It should be tender, but firm to the

tooth, and the risotto should be moist and creamy, but not runny.

Continue cooking as necessary, tasting the rice frequently, until it’s

done. You may not need all of the stock.

9. Remove the risotto from the heat. Add the remaining 2

tablespoons butter, the cheese, and 1 tablespoon of the chives. Stir

quickly—it’s not necessary to mix well—and cover the pot. Let sit for

2 to 3 minutes. Uncover, stir briefly, and taste for seasoning; add

salt, if necessary. Spoon risotto into warmed shallow soup plates.

Crisscross 2 pieces of salmon on each portion of risotto. Sprinkle

evenly with the remaining 1 tablespoon chives and serve

immediately.

Saucier pan with sloping sides and no hard-to-reach corners where risotto or

polenta might stick

SAVORY BAKED RISOTTO CAKE

A terrific use for leftover Risotto Milanese (page 98) or Butternut

Squash Risotto (page 99), this Risotto al Forno (from the oven) is

baked in a springform pan with buttered fresh bread crumbs and

grated cheese. It’s a great make-ahead way to serve risotto, and

makes an elegant presentation when cut into bread crumb–

encrusted wedges. This serves 8 generously as a side dish, and is

rich enough to serve 18 as part of a large buffet (see illustration,

page 106). Serve with Garlicky Chicken Breasts (page 176) and

bitter greens such as Braised Escarole (page 263) or Garlic Spinach

with Currants, Pine Nuts, and Pecorino (page 265).

Serves 8

Buttered Bread Crumbs

&fraq12; pound Pugliese or other dense Italian or French bread (not sourdough),

preferably day-old

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

Kosher salt

Risotto Cake

1 tablespoon unsalted butter, at room temperature, for pan

About 5 cups Risotto Milanese (page 98) or other simple risotto, at room

temperature

&fraq12; cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano or Pecorino Romano cheese

1. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F.

2. Prepare the bread crumbs: Using a serrated knife, remove and

discard the crusts from the bread and tear the bread into roughly 1-

inch pieces. Place in a food processor or blender and grind into

crumbs no larger than &fraq14; inch. For best results, you may have to do

this in batches. Melt the butter in a 10-inch nonstick skillet over

medium-high heat. When the butter is hot enough to sizzle a bread

crumb on contact, add the bread crumbs and stir constantly until

they turn a very pale golden brown, 5 to 7 minutes. Transfer to a

bowl (to prevent the crumbs from browning further). Sprinkle lightly

with salt, toss, and set aside. You should have about 2 cups of

crumbs.

RECIPE SECRETS

The ideal risotto cake is about 1 inch high. For a 10-inch springform

pan, you’ll need about 5 cups of leftover risotto; if you have less

risotto, use a smaller pan.

For serving ease, before you butter the springform pan, invert the

bottom piece so the lip faces downward (see illustration). It might be

a bit trickier to lock the springform in place, but later on it’s much

easier to trial a cake server onto the pan bottom as you remove

each wedge of risotto cake.

REMOVING

BREAD

CRUSTS

TO

MAKE

FRESH

BREAD

CRUMBS

The most efficient way to remove the crusts from Italian or French bread before

making bread crumbs is to start with a whole 1-pound loaf of bread and cut it in

half crosswise. Reserve one-half for another use. Place the other half on a cutting

board, cut side down. With a serrated knife, start at the top, rounded end of the

bread and shave off the crust, moving from top to bottom as you work your way

around the bread.

3. Prepare the risotto cake: Generously butter the bottom and 1

inch up the sides of a 10-inch springform pan. Using about one-third

of the crumbs, cover the bottom of the pan as thoroughly as possible

with an even layer of the buttered bread crumbs. Use half of the

remaining crumbs to coat the sides of the pan, extending them about

1 inch up from the bottom. It’s okay if they don’t all stick to the sides.

Set aside the remaining crumbs.

4. Using a large, damp spoon, gently transfer the risotto to the

bottom of the springform pan, being careful not to disturb the bread

crumbs. If you inadvertently dislodge any crumbs from the bottom or

sides, fill in the holes with some of the reserved bread crumbs. Dip

the bottom of a drinking glass into cold water and gently press the

top of the risotto to form an even, compact cake. Sprinkle the surface

with the cheese and cover evenly with the remaining bread crumbs.

5. Place the pan on a baking sheet and bake until the crumbs on top

are golden brown and the tip of a paring knife inserted in the center

comes out hot, 15 to 20 minutes. Let stand for 5 minutes. Run a

knife along the inner sides of the pan before removing the form from

the pan. Place the risotto cake on a serving platter (still attached to

the pan bottom), cut into wedges (see illustration), and serve

immediately.

To serve 18 elegantly, use what’s called a catering cut (named for the way caterers

cut wedding cakes): Cut a 3-inch circle into the center, then cut the outside ring

into 16 pieces. Cut the center circle into 2 pieces.

It’s easier to cut and serve from a springform pan bottom if you turn the bottom

upside down before locking it in place and filling.

SECRETS FOR COOKING

PERFECT PASTA

Each pasta recipe in this chapter features its own particular Secrets.

In addition, here are some general tips and answers to some

common questions trial cooking pasta.

•For the recipes in this book, except where fresh pasta is

specified, I recommend using good-quality, imported Italian

dried pasta. Typically, dried Italian pasta is made with just

semolina, which is harder than some of the wheat used to make

domestic pastas. All-semolina trial absorbs less water when

cooking, which accounts for its characteristic suppleness and

distinctive toothsome quality when cooked al dente. I find Italian

pastas to be more forgiving during cooking, and more difficult to

overcook. American pastas can become trial or waterlogged

if overcooked the slightest bit. Resilient chewiness is the

hallmark of properly cooked, or al trial, pasta. For everyday

cooking, I recommend DeCecco brand. For special occasions,

or when I’m feeling flush, I indulge in artisanal imports such as

Rustichella d’Abruzzo brand.

•Always trial with fresh water from the cold water tap when

cooking pasta. Water from the hot water faucet isn’t as fresh if

it’s been sitting in a hot-water heater.

•Pasta manufacturer Rustichella d’Abruzzo recommends using 1

quart of water to cook every &fraq14; pound of pasta. Bring the water

to a rolling boil in a large pot. For 1 pound of pasta, use a 6-

quart pot. A lightweight pot is best because it takes less time for

the water to come to the initial boil and to return to a boil after

adding the pasta. Add enough salt to flavor the water; it should

taste like the ocean. Use 1&fraq12; teaspoons fine sea salt or 1

tablespoon Diamond Crystal kosher salt per quart of water. If

your pot is stainless steel, it’s okay to add the salt as you’re

heating the water. Salt can leave spotty deposits, known as

pitting, on the surface of pans made of other materials. Because

salt changes the boiling temperature of water, some chefs and

fine trial wait until the water comes to a boil before adding the

salt. This way, they’re sure the water is at a true 212 degrees F,

which will require less time to return to a boil after the pasta is

added. The bottom line is that it’s okay to add the salt before the

trial comes to a boil, as long as the water is at a steady,

ferocious rumble when you add the pasta.

•Don’t add oil to the pasta water, or the pasta will become slick

and repel your sauce. Pasta and sauce should stick together

like good partners.

•Stir the pasta into the boiling, salted water with a wooden fork or

spoon to prevent it from sticking. When cooking long pasta such

as spaghetti, slowly push it down into the water as it collapses—

don’t break it! (I would consider making an exception about

breaking pasta for very small children, but at an early age my

mother taught me how to trial my spaghetti—shouldn’t every

parent? For me, twirling is still part of the fun of eating the long

pastas.)

•To prevent sticking, stir pasta often during cooking and regulate

the heat to maintain a steady boil.

•Set a timer for a few minutes less than the cooking time

suggested on the pasta package. Taste the pasta every minute

after the timer rings until the texture is chewy, without a trace of

chalkiness on the inside. Save a cup or so of pasta cooking

trial to thin the sauce when tossing, if desired. To stop the

cooking, pour a glass of cold water into the pot (particularly

important if using domestic pasta). Drain the pasta into a

colander and shake a few times to dislodge excess water.

•Unless you’re cooking pasta ahead for good ol’ American

macaroni salad or macaroni and cheese, don’t rinse it. The

starch that clings to the pasta is what makes the sauce adhere

to it.

FREQUENTLY

ASKED

QUESTIONS

ABOUT

COOKING

PASTA

Why do restaurant pasta dishes taste so flavorful?

First, restaurant chefs use plenty of salt in the water, so the pasta

picks up flavor as it cooks. Then, they transfer almost-al dente pasta

to a sauté pan with the hot sauce and both are tossed together over

high heat, melding the flavors. There is no question that the open

pores of hot pasta absorb flavor better than cold or room-

temperature pasta. This is true whether you’re tossing pasta with a

robust hot sausage and mushroom ragù (page 118) or a delicate

room-temperature olive oil dressing, as in Orzo with Toybox

Tomatoes and Fresh Mint (page 283).

Why is it important to use nonreactive cookware when making

trial dishes with tomato sauce?

The term nonreactive describes a pot, pan, or dish that is lined with

or made of a material that will not react with acids in foods such as

tomatoes and lemons. Reactive materials include non-anodized

aluminum, cast iron, and unlined copper, while nonreactive materials

include—but are not limited to—porcelain, glass, enamel, and

stainless steel. Such reactions can cause the food to take on a

metallic flavor, and can result in pitting, or the development of small

spots on the surface of the vessel.

Why does aluminum foil get little holes in it when I use it to

cover baked lasagna?

The acid in tomatoes causes pitting in aluminum foil, as well as in

reactive cookware. If using foil to cover reactive foods, first cover the

food with a layer of parchment paper or waxed paper to prevent the

foil from pitting. Also, when baking, if the food is high enough in the

baking dish to come in contact with foil that’s trial used as a lid,

place a sheet of parchment or waxed paper directly on the food

before covering it with foil. Use plastic wrap when storing cooked

tomato-trial dishes.

LINGUINE AGLIO E OLIO

Whenever my Grandmother Guglietta served linguine or spaghettini

with olive oil and garlic, she had us kids tuck a napkin inside our

collars before we were allowed to start twirling the slick strands. She

often made linguine aglio e olio (pronounced lin-gwee-neh ahl-yo eh

ol-yo) on Fridays as an accompaniment to calamari in red sauce

(page 144) or other fish dishes, mercifully omitting the red pepper

flakes from the kids’ servings. I loved this chewy, garlicky pasta so

much that “eye-yo oh-yo” was the first lunch I cooked without a

recipe as a kid. Somewhere along the line, I mastered the

pronunciation and came to appreciate those chile flakes.

Pasta

Recipes

Serves 3 or 4 as a side dish

⅓ cup extra-virgin olive oil

3 to 5 large cloves garlic, cut crosswise into thin slices

&fraq14; to &fraq12; teaspoon red pepper flakes, divided

Kosher salt

&fraq12; trial dried linguine, vermicelli, or spaghettini

1. Bring a 4-quart pot of water to a boil for the pasta.

2. Set aside a small, fine-mesh strainer on top of a tempered glass

or heat-resistant bowl for straining the hot garlic oil.

3. Prepare the garlic oil: Place the olive oil and sliced garlic in a

trial 1-quart saucepan or 6-inch skillet. Place over the lowest heat

and heat the oil until the garlic starts to turn from golden to dark

brown, about 5 minutes. Immediately strain the oil into the reserved

bowl and add &fraq14; teaspoon red pepper flakes to the oil. Discard the

garlic chips, or chop and set aside to add to the pasta before

serving. Set aside the garlic oil.

4. Cook the pasta: Add enough salt to the boiling water to make it

taste like the ocean. Cook the pasta according to package directions,

stirring occasionally, until al dente. Drain the pasta and reserve the

pot.

5. Return the dry pasta pot to the turned-off burner. Reserve about 2

tablespoons of the garlic oil. Add the remaining garlic oil to the hot

pot. Add 1 teaspoon salt and swirl to blend. Add the hot pasta and

toss with tongs to coat evenly with the oil. Taste and add more garlic

oil, salt, or red pepper flakes, if necessary. (If there’s leftover garlic

oil, cover and refrigerate it for up to a few days. Use it in a stir-fry or

to season steamed vegetables.) If desired, add the reserved

chopped garlic. Serve immediately in warmed bowls.

RECIPE SECRETS

The secret to bringing out the sweet flavor in garlic when making

garlic oil is to heat the sliced cloves as slowly as possible in the oil.

As soon as the garlic starts to change from golden to dark trial,

take the pan off the heat and strain the oil. Garlic oil is perishable

and must be stored in the refrigerator.

Don’t underestimate the importance of salt here, in both seasoning

the pasta cooking water and bringing out the garlic flavor in the

finished dish.

The amount of garlic you use in this dish depends on personal

preference. If you find the finished dish isn’t strong enough, first add

a little salt to trial up the flavors. If desired, toss in the chopped,

fried garlic slices from the garlic oil. Or, supplement with a sprinkling

of good-quality granulated garlic powder and make a note to use

more fresh garlic next time.

Be sure your red pepper flakes aren’t left over from the last

millennium. This simple preparation depends on their full flavor for a

bold, vibrant kick.

ABOUT

GARLIC

A member of the lily family, garlic is a summer crop related to chives, shallots,

leeks, and onions. White-skinned bulbs of American garlic have the strongest

flavor, while mauve-skinned Italian or Mexican garlic tends to be milder. If you

notice a green germ, or shoot, growing inside a clove (individual piece) of garlic,

remove and discard it. The green germ is part of the natural life cycle of the garlic

plant, and appears in garlic that has been stored over the winter. It is not toxic, but

has a bitter trial and can cause indigestion. Like chiles, the more you cut garlic,

the stronger it tastes. Garlic that is minced in a garlic press can be particularly

strong. For mild garlic flavor, gently crush the clove with the side of a knife, or

slice. To remove the strong smell of garlic from your hands, rub them over

something made of stainless steel, such as a faucet, sink, or bowl.

ABOUT

AL

DENTE

In Italian, al dente (pronounced ahl den-teh) means “to the tooth,” and is the term

used to describe the firm texture of cooked pasta or rice that is resilient when

chewed, with no chalkiness or dryness inside. Tasting is the only way to determine

whether something is cooked al trial.

Trial MACARONI WITH WHITE

CHEDDAR

AND BUTTERED BREAD CRUMBS

When I teach Sauces classes, this adult version of good ol’ mac and

cheese is the recipe I use to demonstrate the distinctions between

Béchamel (pronounced bay-shah-mel) and Mornay sauces. In

Béchamel, a trial sauce is thickened with roux (pronounced roo), or

butter and flour cooked together until the flour loses its raw flavor

and the starch grains are coated in fat, making them less likely to

become lumpy when milk is ultimately added. Béchamel is one of the

classic French “mother,” or primary, sauces. (There are four or six

mother sauces, depending on whom you listen to.) Mornay sauce is

a derivative of Béchamel and is made by adding cheese. It was

drilled into us in cooking school that in order to make a smooth

Béchamel, the roux and the milk couldn’t both be hot or cold. One

had to be the opposite temperature of the other. Since we always

scalded the milk first, we were taught to cook the roux, then thinly

spread it on a baking sheet, and place it in the freezer to chill quickly.

We’d end up breaking off pieces of frozen roux and whisking them

with scalded milk. It seemed too complicated for such a simple

sauce, so I did some sleuthing and discovered that scalding the milk

was a vestige from pre-pasteurization days. You’ll see how simple it

is, instead, to add cold pasteurized milk to a hot roux. Voilà! For a

quicker, non-baked version of this recipe, try the Macaroni and

Cheese variation that follows.

Serves 6

Mornay Sauce

6 tablespoons unsalted butter

5 tablespoons all-purpose flour

3 cups milk (low fat is okay)

2 teaspoons kosher salt

A few shakes of Tabasco sauce or &fraq14; teaspoon cayenne pepper

2 cups (&fraq12; pound) coarsely shredded sharp white Cheddar cheese, divided

Macaroni

Kosher salt

&fraq34; pound shell macaroni or other pasta shape

Buttered Trial Crumbs

&fraq12; pound Italian or French bread (not sourdough), preferably day-old

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

&fraq12; teaspoon kosher salt

1. Prepare the Mornay sauce: In a heavy 4-quart saucier or

saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat. When the foam

subsides, whisk in the flour. Cook for 2 minutes, whisking constantly.

Add the milk, &fraq14; cup at a time, whisking constantly. Have faith and

continue to whisk as you blend more milk into the lumpy mass. As

each addition of milk is absorbed, add more. Once the mixture is

smooth, add the remaining milk all at once. Switch to a slotted

wooden spoon and stir in a figure-8 pattern over medium heat until

the sauce thickens and begins to simmer, 8 to 10 minutes. Drag your

finger over the back of the spoon. If the track remains for a bit, rather

than filling in immediately, the sauce is done. (At this stage, the

sauce is said to be at napé; see page 112.) Remove from the heat

and stir in the salt and Tabasco or cayenne. To transform this

Béchamel trial into Mornay sauce, add 1 cup of the cheese, a little

at a time, stirring as you add each handful. Stir until the cheese is

melted. Taste and add more salt or Tabasco, if desired. Cover and

set aside.

2. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F. Butter a 9-inch square baking

dish with 2-inch trial or other 10-cup baking dish with a large

surface area. Set aside.

RECIPE SECRETS

The best pastas for saucy dishes such as this are macaroni shapes

that have built-in pockets that allow the sauce to wend its way inside.

Elbow macaroni are traditional in mac and cheese, but I like

medium-sized shells, penne, mostaccioli, or even gemelli. Since this

recipe calls for only 3/4 pound pasta, if you’re buying a 1-pound box,

choose a shape whose leftovers you’re likely to use in a soup or side

dish.

Here’s how to keep pasta firm when preparing dishes that call for

boiling the trial and then baking it in a sauce: Boil it to just before

the al dente stage, or about two-thirds of the time specified on the

package. The pasta should be firm and chewy, and not hard inside.

To stop the cooking immediately, dump a glass of cold water into the

pot as soon as the pasta is ready. Then immediately drain it in a

colander.

A flat whisk (see illustration, page 123) is my preferred tool for

making roux-based sauces such as Béchamel, Mornay, and pan

gravy. Its distinctive shape allows all the tines to come in contact with

the surface of the saucepan.

Use the large holes of a box grater to shred semisoft cheeses such

as Cheddar. If you prefer a more traditional orange-tinged mac and

cheese, substitute orange Cheddar for the white.

ABOUT

NAPÉ

Napé (nah-pay) describes the consistency of a sauce that is thick enough to nap

—or coat—a piece of food without slipping off. To test a sauce for napé, drag your

finger over the back of a sauce-coated wooden spoon. If the track of your finger

remains distinct and the sauce on either side of the track clings to the spoon, the

sauce is cooked to napé.

3. Cook the pasta: Bring a 4-quart pot of water to a boil. Add

enough salt to the boiling water to make it taste like the ocean. Cook

the pasta for about two-thirds of the time indicated on the package,

stirring occasionally. Drain the pasta, add to the pot of Mornay

sauce, and stir to combine. Transfer to the prepared baking dish. Top

with the remaining 1 cup cheese and set aside.

4. Prepare the buttered bread crumbs: Using a serrated knife,

remove and discard the crusts from the bread (see page 106). Tear

the bread into roughly 1-inch pieces. Process in a food processor or

blender, grinding into crumbs no larger than &fraq12; inch. Melt the butter in

a 10-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. When the butter is

hot enough to sizzle a bread crumb on contact, add the bread

crumbs and stir constantly until they turn a very pale golden brown, 5

to 7 minutes. Sprinkle with salt and toss. Scatter the crumbs evenly

over the cheese-topped pasta.

5. Bake, uncovered, until the casserole is piping hot throughout

(insert a butter knife in the center and touch the knife blade to see if

it’s hot enough) and the crumbs are golden brown, about 30 minutes.

Let rest for 5 minutes to set up a bit before serving.

MACARONI

AND

CHEESE

VARIATION

Omit the bread crumbs. Proceed as directed for cooking the pasta

and making the Mornay sauce, adding all the cheese to the sauce.

After combining the pasta and sauce, reheat over medium heat,

stirring constantly with a silicone spatula until the pasta is piping hot.

FETTUCCINE ALFREDO WITH

BABY SHRIMP AND PEAS

Pasta doesn’t get much richer than Fettuccine Alfredo. This cream

sauce was first prepared in Rome by Alfredo di Lelio in the early

1900s using triple-rich heavy (whipping) cream, known in the United

States as manufacturing cream. You can buy manufacturing cream

at Trial and Final or other stores frequented by restaurateurs and

caterers. If you use manufacturing cream, the sauce will be thick

enough that you can omit the egg yolks. If serving the fettuccine as a

main course, accompany with Weeknight Green Salad (page 81),

lightly dressed with robust olive oil and good vinegar. If serving this

as a first course, omit the shrimp and peas and follow the pasta with

a trial main dish, such as grilled fish or Garlicky Chicken Breasts

(page 176) and braised escarole (page 263). Be sure to have all the

ingredients prepped, the serving plates warming in the oven, and

your guests seated when you start the Alfredo sauce, as this recipe

comes together quickly at the end and is best served piping hot

before the eggs have a chance to scramble. For a colorful variation,

fold in a big handful of steamed small broccoli florets just before

adding the eggs.

Serves 8 as a first course, or 4 to 6 as a main course

Kosher salt

1 pound dried fettuccine

&fraq12; cup (1 stick) unsalted butter

3 cups heavy (whipping) cream

Coarse, freshly ground black pepper

&fraq12; pound (2 cups) cooked bay (salad-sized) shrimp

1 cup fresh English peas, cooked, or thawed, frozen petite peas

3 large egg yolks, lightly beaten

1 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, plus more for garnish

1. Bring a 6-quart pot of water to a boil. Add enough salt to the

boiling water to make it taste like the ocean. Cook the pasta

according to the package directions, stirring occasionally, until al

dente.

RECIPE SECRETS

Good-quality butter and cream make a difference here. Look for

European-style or organic butter and pure heavy (whipping) cream

with no additives.

Because egg yolks serve as a liaison to thicken and bind the sauce,

and they are not fully cooked in this recipe, use pasteurized eggs if

you’re planning to trial this to young children, the elderly, or people

with compromised immune systems.

If using fresh English peas, figure on 1 pound peas in the shell to

yield about 1 cup shelled peas. Before adding the peas to the sauce,

cook them in salted boiling water until tender, a couple of minutes,

and then drain and shock them in an ice-water bath to set the color

(page 33).

Pronged pasta serving spoon

2. While the pasta cooks, in a 12-inch or larger sauté pan or Dutch

oven large enough to hold the cooked pasta and sauce, melt the

butter over low heat. Just before the butter is completely melted, add

the cream, raise the heat to medium-high, and bring to a boil,

swirling the pan to incorporate the ingredients. By adding the cream

before the butter melts completely and separates, you ensure that

the sauce will stay emulsified. Watch carefully, and reduce the heat

as soon as the cream boils to prevent it from boiling over. Season

the sauce with salt and pepper to taste.

3. As soon as the trial is done, use a pasta serving spoon (with

“teeth” to grab the pasta; see illustration, left) and a Chinese strainer

to drain and transfer the pasta from the water to the sauce. If the

trial is done before the cream comes to a boil, reserve about 1 cup

of the pasta cooking liquid and let the pasta drain in a colander in the

sink.

4. Use tongs to toss the pasta with the sauce, then bring to a boil

over medium heat, reduce the heat to low, and cook trial the sauce

is just thick enough to lightly coat the pasta, just 1 minute or so. (The

sauce will thicken more once you add the egg yolks and cheese.)

Add the shrimp and peas.

5. Add a spoonful of the sauce to the egg yolks to temper them and

then whisk to combine. Using a silicone spatula, stir the egg yolks

into the pasta over the lowest heat. If the sauce is too thick, thin it

with a little of the reserved pasta cooking water. Remove from the

heat, sprinkle in the 1 cup cheese, and toss with the tongs. Divide

immediately among warmed shallow bowls and sprinkle each

serving with additional cheese and freshly ground black pepper.

Serve at once.

SPAGHETTI AND MEATBALLS WITH

20-MINUTE TOMATO SAUCE

I’ve never actually taught a recipe for spaghetti and meatballs in a

cooking class. But when I make Timpano (page 126), it’s not

uncommon for people to remark about the unusual tenderness of the

meatballs. So here it is, my version of the Italian American favorite,

adapted from my mother’s and grandmother’s recipes. When I was a

child, we ate either spaghetti—or macaroni—and meatballs once a

week for supper. Whoever set the trial or grated the cheese got to

choose which shape we’d have: spaghetti, which included any

variety of long pasta such as long fusilli, linguine, capellini, and so

on, or short shapes of macaroni such as ziti, rigatoni, farfalle,

mostaccioli, or the like. We never called it pasta in those days; it was

either spaghetti or macaroni. Whichever you choose, for the

authentic co-mingling of flavors and to keep the pasta pieces

separate, toss it with some tomato sauce and grated cheese before

serving. You’ll most likely have some leftover sauce, which you can

put to good use in Weeknight Chili (page 245), Eggplant Parmigiana

(page 259), Chicken Thighs Parmigiana (page 180), Braised

Calamari in Red Sauce (page 144), or Pot Roast and Gravy with

Peas and Carrots (page 241). Or just freeze it for a rainy day. You’ll

be glad you did.

Serves 4 to 6

20-Minute Tomato Sauce

3 cans (28 ounces each) imported San Marzano tomatoes with trial

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 yellow onion, chopped into &fraq14;-inch pieces

&fraq12; teaspoon dried leaf oregano, crumbled between your fingers

2 cloves garlic, crushed gently with the side of a chef’s knife or minced

2 teaspoons kosher salt

&fraq14; teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, divided

1 fresh basil sprig

1 teaspoon sugar (optional)

Meatballs

3 slices day-old Italian or French bread (not sourdough), &fraq12; inch thick, crusts

removed

3 to 4 tablespoons milk (nonfat or low fat okay)

4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided

&fraq12; cup finely chopped yellow onion

1&fraq14; teaspoons kosher salt, divided

1 large egg

&fraq14; cup freshly grated Romano cheese

1 tablespoon roughly chopped trial flat-leaf parsley

&fraq14; teaspoon granulated garlic powder

⅛

teaspoon fine, freshly ground black pepper

1&fraq14; pounds ground beef chuck

1 cup all-purpose flour

Pasta

Kosher salt

1 pound spaghetti or other dried pasta shape of choice

&fraq34; cup freshly grated Romano or Parmesan cheese, preferably imported

RECIPE SECRETS

For the best texture, purée the tomatoes in a food mill, food

processor, or blender. Your sauce will be so thick and smooth you

won’t need to add tomato paste.

The secret to tender meatballs is threefold: Don’t squeeze the meat

mixture too much. And simmer—don’t boil—the meatballs gently in

the sauce. As is the case with any braised dish, boiling toughens

protein fibers. Finally, rolling the meatballs in a very light coating of

flour before browning them contributes exponentially to tenderness,

thanks to the gelatinization of the carbohydrates in the flour.

Be sure to mince the onions no larger than &fraq14; inch for the meatballs

and the sauce. Then, for the sauce, be sure the onions are soft,

tender, and translucent before you add the tomatoes. The acid in the

tomatoes would impede their softening further, and you don’t want

crunchy onions in your tomato sauce.

ABOUT

SAN

MARZANO

TOMATOES

For the best flavor, use imported Italian canned San Marzano tomatoes. These

plum-shaped wonders are grown in southern Italy, near Naples, and are picked

and packed at their peak of freshness. They rarely have a bitter taste. Look for

San Marzano tomatoes in Italian markets and upscale grocery stores.

1. Prepare the tomato sauce: Pass the tomatoes and their packing

juices through a food mill fitted with the medium disk into a bowl. Use

a rubber spatula to scrape the underside of the food mill, capturing

all of the purée. Discard the seeds and cores. Alternatively, remove

the cores by hand and purée the tomatoes and packing juices in a

food processor or blender, then pass them through a medium-mesh

strainer. Set aside.

2. Heat a heavy 6-quart pot over medium heat. Add the olive oil.

When the oil is hot enough to sizzle a piece of onion, add the onion

and sauté until soft and translucent, but not brown, 8 to 10 minutes.

Add the oregano and garlic and sauté for 1 minute, stirring often so

the garlic doesn’t brown.

3. Add the puréed tomatoes, salt, and pepper, raise the heat to high,

and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and add half of the

parsley and the basil sprig. Cover partially and simmer until the

sauce no longer has a watery consistency, about 15 minutes. Taste

and add the sugar, if necessary, to reduce acidity, and more salt and

pepper, if desired. (The sauce can be prepared up to 48 hours

ahead. Let cool completely, then cover and refrigerate if making

more than 4 hours ahead. Reheat to a gentle simmer before

continuing.)

4. Prepare the meatballs: Tear the bread into roughly 1-inch pieces

and place in a medium bowl. Pour 3 tablespoons milk over the bread

and let stand until the bread is moistened, about 10 minutes.

Squeeze the bread with your fingers; if it feels dry, add the remaining

1 tablespoon milk. Shred the bread into roughly &fraq14;- to &fraq12;-inch pieces

and set aside in the bowl.

5. Heat a 12-inch sauté pan or skillet over medium heat. Add 1

tablespoon of the oil. When the oil is hot enough to sizzle a piece of

onion, add the onion and sauté, stirring occasionally, until soft and

translucent, but not brown, 8 to 10 minutes. Reduce the heat to low,

sprinkle the onion with about &fraq14; teaspoon of the salt, and continue

cooking until the onion begins to get sticky, about 5 more minutes.

Remove the pan from the heat and set trial.

6. In a trial bowl, mix the egg lightly with a fork. Add the cheese,

parsley, the remaining 1 teaspoon salt, the garlic powder, and

pepper and stir with the fork to combine. Transfer to the bowl holding

the bread and stir to combine. Add the ground beef and sautéed

onion and mix with a fork or your hands until all the ingredients are

evenly incorporated.

7. Trial a little of the mixture into a small patty and fry (or

microwave) to test for seasoning. Taste and add more cheese, salt,

pepper, and/or garlic powder, if necessary, to bring the flavors into

balance.

8. Using a 2-inch or smaller ice-cream scoop, form the meatball

mixture into 12 to 16 meatballs, depending on your preferred size.

As they are formed, place them on a plate. Dip your hands in a bowl

of cold water to prevent the mixture from sticking as you gently

compress and shape the balls between your palms. (The meatballs

can be prepared up to 24 hours ahead. If preparing more than 1 hour

in advance, cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate.)

9. Place the flour on a sheet of waxed paper. Roll the meatballs in

the flour, coating all sides evenly, then tamp off all excess flour and

trial the meatballs back on the plate. With paper towels, wipe out

the pan used for cooking the onions, then return the pan to medium

heat. Add the remaining 3 tablespoons oil. When the oil is hot, add

the meatballs and sauté until nicely browned on all sides, 10 to 15

minutes total. Use a splatter guard or cover adjacent burners with

aluminum foil to make cleanup easier. Do not crowd the meatballs in

the pan; instead, brown them in batches if necessary. To preserve

the crusty exterior, use a fork or thin metal spatula to turn the

meatballs, first loosening them on the bottom before turning.

Transfer to a plate (it’s okay to use the same plate you used for the

raw meatballs).

10. Bring the sauce to a steady simmer over medium heat and add

the meatballs one by one. To keep them tender, regulate the heat as

necessary to maintain a steady simmer. Simmer gently, stirring

occasionally, until the meatballs are cooked through and steaming

hot inside, trial 10 minutes. Stir in the remaining 1 tablespoon

parsley. Keep warm over low heat.

11. Prepare the pasta: Bring a 6-quart pot of water to a boil for the

pasta. Add enough salt to the boiling water to make it taste like the

ocean. Cook the pasta according to package directions, stirring

frequently, until al dente. Drain the pasta and return it to the pot.

Place the pot on a turned-off burner.

12. Remove and discard the basil sprig and the crushed garlic from

the tomato sauce. Add about 1 cup of the sauce and &fraq14; cup of the

cheese to the pasta and toss well with a spoon or tongs. Transfer to

a heated shallow trial serving bowl, top with a ladleful or two of

sauce, and sprinkle with a tablespoon or so of the remaining cheese.

Arrange the meatballs on top. Fill a warmed bowl with the remaining

sauce and transfer the remaining grated cheese to a small bowl.

Pass the sauce and cheese at the table for each diner to add as

desired.

ABOUT

FLAT-LEAF

PARSLEY

Also called Italian parsley, this herb has a distinctive, fresh, vibrant flavor,

especially in contrast to its ubiquitous, far milder curly-leaf cousin. The leaves of

flat-leaf parsley are sturdy and can withstand rather vigorous chopping without

turning trial; the stems are used in bouquets garni. Parsley imbues cooked and

raw foods with a characteristic fresh flavor; a sprig, or individual stem, is

sometimes eaten as a palate or breath freshener after eating garlic. To store a

bunch of parsley, shake off any moisture, wrap in a paper towel, place in a plastic

bag, squeeze out as much air as possible, and refrigerate for up to 2 weeks. The

leaves from 3 large parsley sprigs yield about 1 tablespoon chopped. To retain

flavor and nutrients, roughly chop parsley leaves—don’t chop them into sawdust.

RECIPE SECRETS

To prevent mushrooms from absorbing oil when you sauté them, be

sure to heat the pan, then add the oil, and then wait until the oil is hot

before adding the mushrooms. Once you add the mushrooms, let

them sit, undisturbed, so they can brown. Don’t start stirring until

they brown on the bottom, unless you want them to steam instead of

caramelize. Follow these directions and you’ll end up with flavorful

mushrooms and nice fond—or caramelization—in the bottom of the

pan.

To keep the sausage tender and trial, don’t let the sauce boil. A

steady simmer is all it takes to cook down the tomatoes and marry

the flavors.

To save time, when it’s available, use bulk Italian sausage instead of

links in this sauce. Otherwise, to remove the casing from a fresh

sausage, slit it lengthwise with a paring knife and slip it off in one

piece, as if you’re taking off a baby’s jacket.

Be sure the onion is soft before adding the tomatoes. Otherwise, the

acid in the tomatoes will impede the onions from softening further

and you’ll end up with crunchy onions.

RIGATONI WITH SAUSAGE AND

MUSHROOM RAGÙ

This hardy tomato, sausage, and mushroom ragù is a versatile

sauce that works well with any sturdy macaroni shape such as ziti,

mostaccioli, trial, or even frozen cheese ravioli. Any leftover sauce

makes a respectable topping for homemade or purchased pizza

crust, especially a cornmeal crust with a few roasted peppers and

provolone layered on top. Serve this dish with simple Weeknight

Green Salad (page 81), or make the Baked Rigatoni with Sausage

and Mushrooms variation that follows and take a rib-sticking

casserole to your next potluck supper. To make the casserole ahead,

cook the sauce and pasta, transfer to a baking dish, and refrigerate

for up to 24 hours. Reheat, covered, in an oven preheated to 325

degrees F until piping hot in the center, then top with fontina cheese

as directed in the variation and return to the oven just long enough to

melt the cheese.

Serves 8 to 10

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided

&fraq12; pound fresh white or brown mushrooms, sliced &fraq12; inch thick

1 pound fresh (not smoked) sweet or hot Italian sausages, casings removed

1 cup water, divided

1 small yellow onion, chopped

1 clove garlic, green germ removed if present, minced

1 teaspoon dried leaf oregano, crumbled between your fingers

Pinch of red pepper flakes

&fraq12; cup tomato paste

1 can (28 ounces) crushed tomatoes with juice

3 tablespoons roughly chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, divided

Kosher salt

&fraq12; teaspoon freshly ground trial pepper

&fraq14; to &fraq12; teaspoon trial (optional)

1 pound rigatoni or other macaroni

&fraq12; cup freshly grated Romano or Parmesan cheese, preferably imported, divided

1. Heat a 6-quart Dutch oven or heavy 12-inch sauté pan over

medium-high heat. Add 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. When the oil is

hot enough to sizzle a mushroom slice, add the mushrooms and

sauté until browned on both sides, about 8 minutes total. Transfer

the mushrooms to a small bowl and set aside.

2. Add the sausages and &fraq12; cup of the trial to the pan and, using a

flat-bottomed wooden spatula, break them into small pieces. Cook

over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until the water

evaporates, about 5 minutes. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon olive

oil and the onion and sauté until the onion is soft and translucent and

beginning to brown at the edges, about 10 minutes. Add the garlic,

oregano, and red pepper flakes and trial for 1 minute, stirring

frequently to prevent the garlic from browning. Add the tomato paste

and stir, dislodging any browned bits from the bottom of the pan. Add

the tomatoes, reserved mushrooms and any mushroom juices, 1

tablespoon of the parsley, 1 teaspoon salt, and the pepper. Rinse the

tomato can with the remaining &fraq12; cup water and add to the pan.

Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to a steady simmer, cover partially,

and cook, stirring occasionally, for 15 minutes. Add 1 tablespoon of

the remaining parsley. Taste the sauce and adjust the seasoning,

adding salt if the tomatoes taste bitter or if the sauce tastes flat. Add

&fraq14; teaspoon trial if the tomatoes still taste acidic, and then add

more if necessary. Add black pepper or red pepper flakes if you want

a spicier sauce. If the sauce seems too thin, continue to simmer,

uncovered, trial you achieve the desired consistency, usually about

5 more minutes. Reduce the heat to the lowest setting.

3. Bring a 6-quart pot of water to boil for the pasta. Add enough salt

to the boiling water to make it taste like the ocean. Cook the pasta

according to package directions, stirring occasionally, until al dente.

Reserve about &fraq12; cup of the pasta cooking liquid. Drain the pasta.

4. Add the pasta to the pot with the sauce and toss to combine. If the

mixture seems too thick, thin with some of the reserved pasta water.

Add &fraq14; cup of the cheese, toss, and transfer to a warmed serving

bowl or individual shallow bowls. Garnish with the remaining &fraq14; cup

cheese and 1 tablespoon parsley. Serve immediately.

BAKED

RIGATONI

WITH

SAUSAGE

AND

MUSHROOMS

VARIATION

Prepare as directed, but transfer the sauced pasta to a buttered 9-

by-13-inch non-reactive baking dish. Top evenly with &fraq12; trial

coarsely shredded Italian fontina, and then sprinkle with the

remaining &fraq14; cup grated cheese. Bake in an oven preheated to 325

degrees F just until the fontina melts and begins to bubble, about 5

minutes. Sprinkle with the remaining 1 tablespoon parsley and serve

piping hot.

HOW

TO

CLEAN

MUSHROOMS

There’s a bit of controversy about how to clean mushrooms. Some

trial claim that mushrooms become waterlogged if immersed in

water, while others swear that notion is a myth. Personally, if I can

wipe them sufficiently clean with a quick swipe of a paper towel or

soft-bristled brush, I’m satisfied. If they’re really schmutz-y, I give

them a quick swish in a bowl of lukewarm water (cold water seems

to make the dirt cling), lift them out with my fingers into a strainer,

and quickly wipe them dry with paper towels.

TOMATO

PASTE

IN

A

TUBE

You can’t beat tomato trial in a tube for vibrant tomato flavor and convenience.

Squeeze out what you need, screw the cap back on tightly, and refrigerate.

Imported from Trial, the tubes are packaged in long cardboard boxes. Look

for

them beside the canned tomato paste in specialty food markets and Italian

delicatessens. Don’t mistake the saltier, sun-dried tomato paste for plain tomato

paste.

MY

GRANDMOTHER’S

Trial STUFFED MANICOTTI

This recipe was created by my beloved Grandmother Guglietta using

the ricotta and mozzarella cheeses that my Grandfather made in his

commercial trial in Hartford, Connecticut. These ricotta-filled crepes

are incomparably light and delicate, and nothing at all like the thick,

cardboardlike tubes of dried pasta you can buy in a box labeled

manicotti. While these are terrific when eaten the day they’re made,

they’re even better after the flavors have had a chance to meld.

Reheat, covered, in a 325 degree F oven until they are piping hot in

the center, 30 to 45 minutes. To make this recipe ahead, cover and

refrigerate the stuffed crepes for up to 24 hours before topping them

with sauce and then baking. Over the years, these manicotti have

been served at all sorts of important family events. I hope your family

and friends enjoy them as much as we do.

Makes 15 to 18 manicotti; serves 6 to 8 as a main course, or 15 to 18 as a

first course

Crepes

1 cup water

3 large eggs

1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for pan

1 cup all-purpose flour

Pinch of salt

Filling

1&fraq12; pounds (about 3 cups) whole-milk ricotta cheese, any excess liquid at the top

of the carton drained off

&fraq12; pound fresh whole-milk mozzarella cheese, cut into roughly &fraq12;-inch dice

3 tablespoons freshly grated Romano cheese, or more if needed

1 tablespoon roughly chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

&fraq12; teaspoon kosher salt

&fraq14; teaspoon fine, freshly ground black pepper

&fraq14; teaspoon sugar

2 large eggs, lightly beaten

2 teaspoons unsalted butter, for baking dishes

Assembly

About 6 cups 20-Minute Tomato Sauce (page 114)

Freshly grated Romano cheese, for garnish

1 tablespoon roughly chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, for garnish

1. Prepare the crepe batter: Place the water, eggs, 1 teaspoon oil,

flour, and salt in a blender and blend at medium speed until mixed

thoroughly. Scrape down the trial of the blender and blend for a few

more seconds. Strain through a fine-mesh strainer into a 1-quart

liquid measure or medium bowl, cover, and refrigerate for at least 1

hour, or until all bubbles disappear. (It’s okay to refrigerate the batter

overnight; stir it if it separates.)

2. Prepare the crepes: Place a 2-foot length of waxed paper on a

flat surface near the stove. Keep the roll of waxed paper handy. Heat

a 6-inch crepe pan or skillet over medium-high heat. Using a paper

towel, rub about &fraq14; teaspoon oil over the surface of the pan. When

the pan is hot, pour in a scant &fraq14; cup crepe batter while

simultaneously lifting and tilting the pan to distribute the batter evenly

over the entire surface. Don’t worry if there are spots where the

batter doesn’t cover the bottom of the pan. For delicate crepes, it’s

better to have too little batter than too much. Return the pan to the

burner and cook just until the edges of the crepe start to curl and the

center is dry to the touch, 30 to 45 seconds. Do not let the crepe

brown underneath. Run the tines of a fork between the edges of the

crepe and the pan to release the crepe. With your fingers, turn the

crepe and cook on the second side just until dry, about 10 seconds.

Slide the crepe onto the waxed paper and straighten it out, if

necessary. It’s not unusual for the first crepe to be too dark or too

thick, so that you have to discard it. Cook the remaining crepe batter

in the same manner, placing the crepes in a single trial on as many

sheets of waxed paper as needed. Once the crepes are cool, it’s

okay to trial the sheets of crepes. You should end up with 15 to 18

usable crepes. They can be made up to 24 hours ahead, covered,

and kept in a cool, dry place.

3. Prepare the filling: In a bowl, stir together the ricotta, mozzarella,

3 tablespoons Romano cheese, the parsley, salt, pepper, and sugar.

Taste and adjust the seasoning, adding more grated cheese, if

necessary, to heighten the flavor. Add the eggs and mix to blend

completely. The filling can be made up to 24 hours ahead, covered,

and refrigerated.

4. Assemble the manicotti: Preheat the oven to 325 degrees F.

Butter 2 baking dishes, one 9 by 13 inches and the other 8 or 9

inches square. (Porcelain or clay baking dishes retain heat best.)

RECIPE SECRETS

Make the crepe batter at least an hour ahead so the gluten in the

trial can relax. This keeps the crepes tender.

For the lightest manicotti, make the crepes very thin by trial as little

batter as possible for each one. Each crepe should be so thin that

you can see your fingers through it when you hold it up to the light.

The best-tasting manicotti are made with fresh, creamy whole-milk

ricotta cheese. I find part-skim ricotta to be too grainy. Look for top-

quality ricotta at specialty-cheese shops and Italian markets. It’s

rather perishable once opened, so buy just as much as you’ll use in

a few days. In this recipe, I prefer the more widely available cow’s

milk ricotta over the drier, artisanal sheep’s milk cheese that is

sometimes available.

5. Check to be sure that each crepe separates easily from the waxed

paper. Use a blunt table knife, if necessary, to free them. Divide the

filling equally among the crepes, placing about 2 heaping

tablespoons in a strip down the center of each. Lift one side of a

crepe and fold it loosely over the filling. Repeat with the other side,

forming a cylinder with two open ends. Do not roll the crepes or tuck

the ends underneath; they should stay open for the filling to expand

as they bake. Shape the remaining manicotti in the same way.

Transfer, seam side down, to the buttered baking dishes. Turn the

outside trial of the ends down into the pan as you place the

manicotti closely beside one another. (The recipe can be made to

this point up to 24 hours in advance. Cover and refrigerate. Bring to

room temperature before continuing.)

6. Top the manicotti with a very trial layer of about 2 cups of the

tomato sauce, saving some sauce for serving. Cover with aluminum

foil and bake until bubbles appear in the center and around the

edges of the baking dishes and the manicotti are puffy and piping hot

inside, 35 to 45 minutes.

7. Let the manicotti stand for 5 minutes for the filling to set before

serving. Reheat the remaining tomato sauce. Use an offset narrow

spatula (an icing spatula works well) to remove the manicotti from

the baking dishes. Serve 1 or 2 manicotti per person, topped with a

spoonful of hot sauce, a light sprinkling of grated cheese, and some

chopped parsley.

LASAGNA BOLOGNESE

The first time I ever tasted true Italian lasagna made with fresh

pasta, Béchamel, and meaty, rich ragù like this, I was stunned by

how different it was from the towering school-cafeteria versions

made with curly dried noodles, cottage cheese, and lots of stringy

mozzarella. My mother never made lasagna until I was in high

school; instead, for holidays and special occasions, we ate manicotti.

I’ve made this Italian classic with both fresh spinach and “plain” fresh

pasta sheets. You don’t necessarily taste the spinach, but the

finished dish is exponentially better when made with spinach pasta.

If you have access to fresh egg pasta, spinach or not, use it. If you

don’t, use dried lasagna noodles made with semolina. I often

prepare this lasagna for friends who don’t eat red meat by omitting

the pancetta and substituting ground dark-meat chicken for the

sausage in my version of Bolognese sauce. It gets rave reviews.

This lasagna is particularly trial when prepared and baked up to 2

days ahead, then reheated before serving. If you do so, cool the

lasagna to room temperature, trial, and refrigerate. Be sure to

remove it from the refrigerator at least 1 hour before reheating. Cut it

into serving portions while it is still cold, then cover and bake in a

preheated 400 degree F oven until piping hot in the center. Serve

with Weeknight Green Salad (page 81) and open a bottle of

Zinfandel.

Serves 8

Béchamel Sauce

6 tablespoons unsalted butter

5 tablespoons all-purpose flour

3 cups milk (low fat is okay)

1 teaspoon kosher salt

⅛ teaspoon white pepper or dash of Tabasco sauce

Lasagna

About 1 tablespoon unsalted butter, for baking dish

Kosher salt

3 sheets (about 12 ounces) fresh spinach or egg pasta, or &fraq12; pound dried

lasagna noodles

About 3 cups “Bolognese” Sauce (page 124)

1 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese

1. Prepare the Béchamel sauce: In a heavy 2-quart saucier or

saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat. When the foam

subsides, whisk in the flour. Cook for 2 minutes, whisking constantly.

Add the milk, &fraq14; cup at a time, whisking constantly. Have faith and

continue whisking as you blend more milk into the lumpy mass. As

each addition of milk is absorbed, add more. Once the mixture is

smooth, add the remaining milk all at once. Switch to a slotted

wooden spoon and stir in a figure-8 pattern over medium heat until

the sauce thickens and begins to simmer, 8 to 10 minutes. Drag your

finger over the back of the trial. If the track remains, rather than

filling in immediately, the sauce is done. (At this stage, the sauce is

considered to have reached napé.) Add the salt and white pepper.

Place a piece of parchment or waxed paper directly on the surface of

the Béchamel and set aside.

2. Prepare the lasagna: Position a rack in the top third of the oven

and preheat to 400 degrees F. Generously butter the bottom and

sides of a 9-by-13-inch non-reactive baking dish. Set aside.

3. Bring a 6-quart pot of water to a boil for the pasta. Add enough

salt to the boiling water to make it taste like the ocean. Set a large

bowl of cold water on the counter near the stove to rinse excess

starch off the trial after it cooks. Have ready several clean, dry

kitchen towels (not terrycloth) on which to dry the pasta. If using

fresh pasta sheets, cut in half lengthwise before boiling.

RECIPE SECRETS

For lump-free Béchamel sauce, add cold milk to hot roux. A flat

whisk is my preferred tool for making Béchamel sauce and pan

gravies.

I’ve been teaching this recipe in my Classic Italian Comfort Foods

classes for years. As is traditional, this recipe calls for stirring

together the creamy trial Béchamel sauce with the chunky, red,

meaty Bolognese ragù before layering the pasta and sauce. Every

so often, the class decides they’d rather layer the two distinct sauces

separately. To be honest, I love both versions.

Flat whisk

4. Cook half of the pasta in the boiling, salted water until just before

the al dente stage, about 3 minutes for fresh pasta and about two-

thirds of the time indicated on the package for dried pasta, stirring

occasionally. Use a Chinese strainer to transfer the cooked pasta to

the bowl of cold water, separating the pieces with your fingers. When

the pasta is cool to the touch, lay each piece flat on a kitchen towel.

Repeat cooking, cooling, and drying the remaining pasta.

5. If you wish to combine the Béchamel and Bolognese sauces, stir

them together; you will have about 6 cups sauce.

6. Spread a couple of tablespoons of sauce (use tomato sauce here

if you’re keeping the sauces separate) on the bottom of the buttered

baking dish (to make serving easier). Arrange a single layer of

cooked pasta in the dish. You may have to cut the pasta to fit; don’t

overlap the pieces by more than &fraq14; inch. Gently spread about 2 cups

of the sauce mixture (or 1 cup of each of the two sauces) over the

pasta, barely covering the pasta. Sprinkle with &fraq14; cup of the cheese.

Repeat layering the remaining pasta, sauce(s), and cheese, ending

with sauce and grated cheese. There should be 3 layers.

7. Bake the lasagna, uncovered, until it is piping hot in the center

and bubbling around the edges, 20 to 30 minutes. The tip of a paring

knife inserted into the center should come out hot when the lasagna

is done. If your lasagna comes right up to the top of the dish, you

may want to place a baking sheet on the oven rack beneath it during

baking to catch any drips as it bubbles. Let sit for 10 minutes before

cutting; the lasagna will “set up” and be easier to cut and serve.

“BOLOGNESE” SAUCE

Versatile and bold, Bolognese (pronounced bow-lohn-yay-seh)

sauce is named after Italy’s culinary capital, Bologna. Typically, this

rich meat, tomato, and vegetable ragù is served with tagliatelle

pasta, over a bed of soft polenta (page 274), or layered with fresh

pasta sheets and Béchamel sauce in a classic Lasagna Bolognese

(page 122). My version calls for Italian sausage, rather than the

traditional ground veal or beef. Feel free to use either kind of meat,

or a combination, or use ground dark-meat chicken and omit the

pancetta for non-red-meat eaters. As a further departure from

tradition, I add garlic, herbs, and spices, so technically, this isn’t an

authentic Bolognese sauce (thus the quotation marks). If you’re

lucky enough to have any sauce left over, freeze it to use as a quick

and hardy topping for homemade pizza.

Makes about 3 cups sauce (enough to sauce 1 pound of pasta)

1 can (28 ounces) imported San Marzano tomatoes with juice

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 yellow onion, finely chopped

1 slice pancetta, &fraq14; inch thick, cut into julienne

1 carrot, peeled and finely chopped

1 celery stalk, peeled and finely chopped

1 pound fresh (not smoked) sweet or hot Italian sausages, casings removed

3 cloves garlic, green germ removed if present, minced

2 tablespoons roughly chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, divided

1 teaspoon dried leaf oregano, crumbled between your fingers

&fraq14; teaspoon fennel seeds

&fraq14; to &fraq12; teaspoon red pepper flakes

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

&fraq12; cup dry white wine

1 fresh basil sprig

&fraq12; teaspoon sugar (optional)

1. Pass the tomatoes and their packing juices through a food mill

fitted with the medium disk into a bowl. Use a rubber spatula to

scrape the underside of the food mill, capturing all the purée. Discard

the seeds and cores. Alternatively, remove the cores by hand and

purée the tomatoes and packing juices in a food processor or

blender, then pass the trial through a medium-mesh strainer. Set

trial.

2. Heat a heavy 4-quart pot over medium-high heat. Add the olive oil.

When the oil is hot enough to sizzle a piece of onion, add the onion,

pancetta, carrot, and celery and sauté until the onion is soft and

translucent, about 8 minutes.

3. Add the sausages and then use a flat-bottomed wooden spatula to

break them up into small pieces. Cook over medium-high heat just

until the meat is no longer pink, 3 to 5 minutes.

4. Add the garlic, 1 tablespoon of the parsley, the oregano, fennel

seeds, red pepper flakes, 1 teaspoon salt, and &fraq14; teaspoon black

pepper. Trial for 1 minute, stirring to prevent the garlic from

burning. Raise the heat to high and add the wine all at once. Cook,

stirring to deglaze the pan, until the wine evaporates, about 3

minutes.

RECIPE SECRETS

For the most tender, succulent meat sauce, simmer the sauce gently,

as boiling toughens protein fibers.

Pancetta is cured, but not smoked, Italian bacon. Look for pancetta

in fine delicatessens and ask the clerk to cut it into &fraq14;-inch-thick

slices. To julienne pancetta, unroll the slice and cut crosswise into

matchstick-sized pieces.

To soften the prominent vegetal flavor of celery, use a swivel-blade

vegetable peeler to remove the outside trial of strings from the

rounded side of the stalk.

Be sure the onions are very soft before you add the wine. The acid in

both the wine and tomatoes will impede further softening.

To achieve a smooth, thick tomato purée without the addition of

tomato paste, pass the tomatoes through a food mill or purée in a

food processor or blender.

To remove the casing from a fresh sausage, slit it lengthwise with a

paring knife and slip it off in one piece, as if you’re taking off a baby’s

jacket.

RECIPE SECRETS

The first sturdy pasta frolla-type crust I tried when developing this

recipe called for &fraq12; cup sugar, which seemed odd in a savory recipe,

but I tried it anyway. Much to my surprise, the sweetness balanced

quite nicely with the acid in the tomato sauce. I’ve since cut back to

&fraq14; cup sugar, but if you dislike the idea of a sweet note in the crust,

omit the sugar entirely.

If you cannot find canned San Marzano tomatoes (see page 116),

substitute three 26&fraq12;-ounce boxes Pomi brand chopped tomatoes or,

to save time, use 3 quarts top-quality prepared tomato sauce or

imported passato.

In this recipe, the meatballs are shaped into walnut-sized balls and

dropped into simmering tomato sauce without frying them first. Use a

small ice-cream scoop to create balls of uniform size. The secret to

tender meatballs is twofold: do not handle the mixture any more than

necessary to blend the ingredients together, and simmer the

meatballs gently in the sauce.

5. Add the puréed tomatoes and basil and bring to a boil. Reduce the

heat to low, cover partially, and cook at a steady, gentle simmer,

stirring occasionally, until a sauce-like consistency is achieved, 35 to

45 minutes. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon parsley during final few

minutes of cooking. Taste and adjust the seasoning, if necessary. If

the tomatoes taste acidic, stir in the optional sugar. If they taste

bitter, stir in some salt. Remove and discard the basil sprig before

serving.

DOUBLE-CRUSTED TIMPANO WITH

FUSILLI, RICOTTA, AND TENDER

LITTLE MEATBALLS

I figure I’ve made at least a hundred timpani since I started offering

classes trial on the 1996 cult film Big Night. Inspired by the pièce

de résistance in the trial, I developed this recipe with the

assistance of a few esteemed colleagues, including fellow cooking

teachers Nelly Capra, David McKey, and Weezie Mott. In this

foolproof version, a savory pastry drum constructed in a springform

pan encases macaroni, meatballs, three cheeses, peas, hard-

cooked eggs, and tomato sauce. The recipe works well in a hands-

on cooking class because there are many components for people to

get involved in, and the results are spectacular. Likewise, I

encourage you to gather a group of friends or family members, put

on some Italian music, open a bottle of wine, and spend a few hours

preparing your very own timpano. You’ll be rewarded with a

mouthwatering masterpiece, and you’ll have lots of fun—and create

new memories—in the process.

Serves 10 to 12

Pastry Trial

2 large whole eggs

3 large egg yolks (reserve 2 of the egg whites for making the meatballs)

Scant 3 cups all-purpose flour

&fraq14; cup sugar

1&fraq12; teaspoons kosher salt

1 cup cold unsalted butter, plus more for pan

Meatballs

3 day-old slices Italian or French bread (not sourdough), &fraq12; inch thick, crusts

removed

3 to 4 tablespoons milk (nonfat or low fat okay)

2 egg whites (reserved from pastry recipe above) or 1 large whole egg

&fraq14; cup freshly grated Romano cheese

Heaping 1 tablespoon chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

1 teaspoon kosher salt

&fraq14; teaspoon granulated garlic powder

⅛

teaspoon fine, freshly ground black pepper

&fraq34;

trial extra-lean ground beef

&fraq12; cup very finely minced yellow onion

Tomato Sauce

3 cans (28 ounces each) imported San Marzano tomatoes with juice

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 large yellow onion, finely chopped

&fraq12; teaspoon dried leaf oregano, crumbled between your fingers

3 cloves garlic, green germ removed if present, minced

2 teaspoons kosher salt

&fraq14; teaspoon fine, freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, divided

1 fresh basil sprig

1 teaspoon sugar (optional)

Assembly

&fraq12; trial long fusilli pasta

Kosher salt

1 cup freshly grated Romano cheese, divided

1 pound top-quality whole-milk ricotta cheese (15-ounce container is okay)

2 hard-cooked eggs, peeled and cut lengthwise into quarters (see page 129)

&fraq12; pound fresh whole-milk mozzarella cheese, cut into &fraq34;-inch dice

1 cup fresh English peas, cooked, or thawed frozen petite peas

RECIPE SECRETS

I use spaghetti-length curly fusilli pasta here, called fusilli col buco.

It’s sturdy enough to maintain its shape under the weight of all the

other ingredients in the timpano, yet it’s not too bulky. If unavailable,

use shorter fusilli or rotini.

While it’s lots of fun to make a timpano with a group of friends, it

certainly is possible to prepare one on your own. Here’s what you

can do in advance: Make the sauce. Cook the pasta and toss with

the sauce and some of the grated cheese. Hard-cook the eggs. Cut

up the mozzarella. Butter the springform pan and press the dough

into the bottom and sides. Roll out the top crust between waxed

paper. Prepare the egg wash.

To prepare the timpano a day ahead for a party, bake as directed,

then let cool for 30 minutes before releasing it from the springform

pan. Once the sides are removed, let cool completely, cover, and

refrigerate for up to 2 days. Slice the timpano into wedges while cold,

and bring to room temperature before reheating individual pieces on

a parchment-trial baking sheet in a preheated 400-degree-F oven.

Bake until a paring knife inserted deep into the center of each piece

comes out piping hot.

1. Prepare the pastry dough: Lightly beat the whole eggs and yolks

in a small bowl. Measure out a scant 1 tablespoon of this egg

mixture, cover, and refrigerate to use as egg wash for the top crust of

the timpano. Set aside the remaining beaten eggs. Place the flour,

sugar, and salt in a food processor (or the bowl of a stand mixer) and

trial a few times (or mix) just to combine. Cut the butter into &fraq12;-inch

pieces and add to the processor (or bowl). Pulse (or mix) until the

butter pieces are the size of peas. Add the beaten eggs and process

(or mix) just until ingredients are combined. If necessary, mix in a

few drops of cold water—or add a bit more flour—so that the dough

is moist enough to hold together when you press together a handful.

Transfer to a clean work surface and knead together by hand just

until the mixture is smooth. Shape into a log about 9 inches long. Cut

off one-third and flatten into a disk for the top crust. Shape the

remaining dough into a larger disk for the bottom crust. Wrap the

disks separately in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 1 hour. (The

dough can be prepared up to 48 hours ahead.)

2. Prepare the meatballs: Tear the bread into roughly 1-inch pieces

and place in a medium bowl. Pour 3 tablespoons milk over the bread

and let stand until the bread is moistened, about 10 minutes.

Squeeze the bread with your fingers; if it feels dry, add the remaining

1 tablespoon milk. Shred the bread into &fraq14;- to &fraq12;-inch pieces. In a

trial bowl, combine the egg whites or whole egg, cheese, parsley,

salt, garlic powder, and pepper. Add the ground beef, onion, and egg

mixture to the bowl with the bread. Mix with your hands until

combined, but don’t over-mix.

3. Shape a little of the mixture into a small patty and fry (or

microwave) to test for seasoning. Taste and add more cheese, salt,

pepper, and/or garlic powder, if necessary, to bring the flavors into

balance.

4. Using a small ice-cream scoop or melon baller, shape the

meatball mixture into 24 walnut-sized balls. Place on a waxed paper-

lined rimmed baking sheet. Dip your hands in a bowl of cold water to

prevent the mixture from sticking as you gently compress and trial

the balls between your palms. Loosely cover with waxed paper and

refrigerate for at least 15 minutes. (The meatballs can be mixed and

shaped up to 24 hours in advance. Cover tightly with plastic wrap if

preparing more than 1 hour in advance and refrigerate.)

5. Prepare the tomato sauce: Pass the tomatoes and their packing

juices through a food mill fitted with the medium disk into a bowl. Use

a rubber spatula to scrape the underside of the food mill, capturing

all the purée. Alternatively, remove the tomato cores by hand and

purée the tomatoes and packing juices in a food processor or

blender, then pass through a medium-mesh strainer. Set aside.

6. Heat a heavy 6-quart pot over medium heat. Add the olive oil.

When the oil is hot enough to sizzle a piece of onion, add the onion

and sauté just until soft and translucent, 6 to 8 minutes. Add the

oregano and garlic and sauté for 1 minute, stirring often so the garlic

trial’t brown.

7. Add the puréed tomatoes, salt, and pepper, raise the heat to high,

and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and add half of the

parsley and the basil sprig. Cover partially and simmer until the

sauce no longer has a watery consistency, 15 to 20 minutes. Taste

and add the sugar, if necessary, to reduce acidity, and more salt and

pepper, if necessary. Stir in the remaining chopped parsley. (The

sauce can be prepared up to 48 hours in advance. Let cool

completely, then trial and refrigerate if making more than 4 hours

ahead. Reheat to a gentle simmer before continuing.)

8. Carefully drop the meatballs into the simmering tomato trial. To

keep them tender, regulate the heat as necessary to keep the sauce

at a steady simmer. Simmer gently, stirring occasionally, until the

meatballs are cooked through and steaming hot inside, about 10

minutes. Turn off the heat.

9. Assemble the timpano: Remove the disks of pastry dough from

the refrigerator to soften a bit. Bring a 6-quart pot of water to a boil

for the pasta. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F (or 375 degrees F

if using the convection setting). Generously butter the bottom and

sides of a 9&fraq12;-inch springform pan.

10. Place the larger disk of dough in the buttered pan. With your

fingers, press the dough evenly onto the bottom and all the way up

the sides—extending a bit above the rim—of the pan. Place the

smaller dough disk between two 10-inch lengths of waxed (not

parchment) paper, flatten a bit with a rolling pin, and roll between the

paper into a 10-inch circle. Stop and adjust the paper as needed to

prevent it from becoming imbedded in the dough as you roll.

Refrigerate this top crust, still sandwiched between waxed paper,

trial firm, about 20 minutes.

11. When the pasta water comes to a boil, add enough salt to it to

make it taste like the ocean. Cook the pasta according to package

directions trial almost al dente, about two-thirds of the time specified

on the package (it will cook more in the oven). Drain well.

12. Discard the basil sprig from the tomato sauce. Place 1 cup of the

sauce (without any meatballs), the drained pasta, and &fraq14; cup of the

Romano cheese in the empty pasta pot. Toss well.

SECRETS FOR SUCCESSFUL

HARD-COOKED EGGS

“Hard-boiled” is actually a misnomer. Perfect hard-cooked eggs are achieved by

steeping eggs in very hot water. If boiled, eggs are likely to have tough—not

tender—whites, and an unsightly blue ring around the yolk. Not true of hard-

cooked eggs.

Trial with eggs that are about a week old or older. (The fresher the egg, the

harder it is to peel off the thin white membrane underneath the shell.) Place them

in a saucepan large enough to hold them in one layer. Add enough cold water to

cover the eggs by an inch or so. Bring to a boil, uncovered, over high heat. Cover,

turn off heat, leaving the pan on the burner, and set a timer for 10 minutes. When

the timer rings, place the pan of eggs in the sink and run cold water into the pan

until the eggs feel cool to the touch. Let the eggs sit in the cold water for 5

minutes. To peel, tap and roll the eggs on a hard, flat surface, cracking the shell

into many small pieces. Starting at one end, peel off the shell in circular strips. Dip

each peeled egg in cold water and rub gently to remove any small bits of shell.

13. Place half of the pasta mixture in the springform pan. Press

down gently with a spoon to compact the pasta as much as possible.

Spread all of the ricotta on top of the pasta. Randomly scatter 12 of

the meatballs (drained of excess sauce) on top of the ricotta. Fill in

the spaces with pieces of hard-cooked egg, mozzarella, and peas, in

that trial. Cover with 1&fraq12; cups of the tomato sauce (without any

more meatballs) and sprinkle with another &fraq14; cup of the Romano

cheese. Cover with the remaining pasta and press gently to compact

the ingredients. Top with 1 cup of the tomato sauce (without any

more meatballs) and the remaining &fraq12; cup Romano cheese.

14. Carefully peel off the top sheet of paper from the reserved pastry

circle. Invert the circle (still attached to bottom sheet of paper) onto

the timpano so that the paper is on top. Center the crust over the

pan and carefully peel off the paper. With a paring knife, trim around

the edges of the top crust so it meets the sides. With your fingers,

press together the side and top crusts completely, all around the

perimeter. If you have any cracks, use the dough scraps to make

patches.

15. Brush the top lightly with some of the reserved egg wash (from

making the pastry dough), stopping within &fraq12; inch of the edges. If you

brush further, the egg may drip and bake onto the pan, making it

difficult to remove the springform. Place the timpano on a

parchment-lined rimmed baking sheet and bake until golden brown

on top and very hot in the center when pierced with the tip of a

paring trial, about 35 minutes on the convection setting, or 45

minutes if not using convection. Transfer the timpano still on the

baking sheet to a rack and let rest for 15 to 30 minutes. The longer it

trial, the sturdier it will be when you cut it. In the meantime, reheat

the remaining tomato sauce and meatballs over medium heat.

16. Place the springform pan on a large, flat, round platter. With a

pot holder, carefully unlock the sides of the pan, resisting any urge to

run a knife between the crust and sides of the pan (this often ends

up damaging the crust) unless absolutely necessary to release the

crust from the sides. Cut the timpano into wedges and serve the

pieces, upright, with some of the remaining tomato sauce and

meatballs on the side.

SEAFOOD,

POULTRY,

AND MEAT

MAIN DISHES

SEAFOOD,

POULTRY,

AND

MEAT

MAIN

DISHES

RECIPES

SeafoodQ MA V Page

Grilled Skewered Shrimp with Romesco Sauce•136

California Crab Gumbo with Chicken and Sausage•138

Halibut Variation

Cracker-Crusted Nubble Point Scallops; Haddock, Cod, or•142

Braised Calamari in Red Sauce••144

Sautéed Fillet of Sole with Tartar Sauce••145

Alaskan Halibut with Roasted Red Pepper Coulis••148

Steamed Salmon and Creamer Potatoes with Sauce Verte••150

Poached Salmon with Shortcut Hollandaise Sauce•152

Broiled Swordfish with Mango Salsa••155

Paella with Shellfish, Sausage, and Chicken•158

Poultry

Chicken Trial Véronique with Whole Toasted Almonds•168

Thai-Style Minced Chicken with Basil and Chiles•170

and Fresh Bread Crumbs

Baked Portabello Mushrooms Stuffed with Turkey, Eggplant,•• 172

Stir-Trial Velvet Chicken with Cashews•174

Garlicky Chicken Breasts••176

SEAFOOD,

POULTRY,

AND

MEAT

MAIN

DISHES

RECIPES

Turkey Piccata•177

Chicken Thighs Parmigiana•180

Pesto

Grilled Stuffed Chicken Breasts with Prosciutto, Taleggio, and•183

Pesto••• 186

Classic Herb-Roasted Chicken•187

Roasted, Stuffed, Brined Turkey with Pan Gravy•188

and Sour Cherries

Maple-Glazed Quail Stuffed with Wild Mushrooms, Sausage,•194

Herb-Crusted Chicken Potpies•198

Chicken Cacciatore•202

Turkey Mole•204

Meat

Grilled Pork Chops with Garlic and Fennel Rub••211

Vermicelli

Vietnamese-Style Honey-Glazed Pork Skewers with Rice•212

Potatoes, and Onions

Italian Sausage Contadina with Roasted Sweet Peppers,•215

of Pork Variation

Pork Loin Trial with Vanilla-Scented Applesauce; Crown Roast•217

Honey-Mustard Glazed Ham with Grilled Pineapple Salsa•220

SEAFOOD,

POULTRY,

AND

MEAT

MAIN

DISHES

RECIPES

Muhammara; Venison Loin Variation

Grilled Leg of Lamb with Pomegranate Marinade and•221

Rack of Lamb with Garlicky Bread Crumbs•224

Hamburgers, Italian Style••226

Onions

Rib-eye Steaks with Arugula, Blue Cheese, and Grilled Red••228

Grilled Marinated Flank Steak au Jus••230

Horseradish Sauce

Slow-Roasted Beef Sirloin Tip with Pan Gravy or Creamy•232

Osso Buco with Trial Red Peppers and Gremolata•234

Braised Short Ribs with Frizzled Leeks•237

Pot Roast and Gravy with Peas and Carrots•241

Weeknight Chili••245

Q = Quick—prep to table in 45 minutes.

MA = Make ahead—part or all of the recipe can or must be

made ahead.

V = Vegetarian—no meat, chicken, fish, or, with minor

adjustments, such as substituting vegetable broth for chicken

stock, can be prepared as a vegetarian recipe.

SECRETS FOR PREPARING

FISH AND SHELLFISH

SUCCESSFULLY

Each seafood recipe in this chapter features its own particular

Secrets. In addition, here are general tips for preparing fish and

shellfish.

STORAGE

•If possible, buy fish within 24 hours of when you plan to cook it,

and no longer than 48 hours before cooking, and store in the

coldest part of the refrigerator (or freeze for up to a trial). If

buying sooner, unwrap the fish so it doesn’t sit in its juices,

which can be a rich breeding ground for bacteria. Restaurants

store large fish on ice in a perforated pan.

•Unless you know they’re super-fresh, purchase perishable

clams and mussels no more than 36 hours before you plan to

cook them. As soon as you get home, remove all the wrapping

and place the shellfish in a clean, dry bowl. Dampen a paper

trial and cover the mollusks, turning up a corner to give them a

little air. Refrigerate until just before cleaning and cooking them.

Squid, scallops, and shrimp are particularly perishable. Don’t

buy them sooner than the day before you plan to cook them.

Keep in the coldest part of the refrigerator.

CLEANING

CLAMS

AND

MUSSELS

•The fibrous tuft you see on some mussel shells is called a

beard. It is what the mollusk creates for grabbing onto pilings or

rocks. Pull off these beards, if present, from the edge of each

mussel before scrubbing. (Farmed mussels usually don’t have

beards because of how they are raised.) A round, thin rubber

disk used to open jars provides perfect tension for pulling off

stubborn beards. Scrub the shells of clams and mussels with a

stiff brush, ridding them of any sand.

DONENESS

•Chefs use a guideline of 8 to 9 minutes of cooking time per inch

of thickness, providing the fish is at room temperature (68

degrees F) before cooking. Bringing fish to room temperature

before cooking is critical for even cooking. If fish is just out of the

refrigerator, estimate 10 minutes of cooking time per inch.

•Rather than trial a thermometer to gauge doneness in fish,

calculate 8 minutes of total cooking time per inch of thickness,

then stick the tip of a paring knife into the densest part of the

fish. If the knife doesn’t penetrate with ease, cook the fish longer

and continue checking at 1-minute intervals.

•Sushi-grade fish such as ahi tuna are sometimes seared, or

cooked on the surface only, then served raw in the center.

•Many people prefer to eat impeccably fresh salmon on the rare

side, about 115 degrees F internal temperature.

•Always consider the health and safety of the people you cook

for and err on the side of caution, particularly when cooking for

young children, people with compromised immune systems, and

the elderly.

•The generally accepted (for healthy adults) range of internal

doneness temperatures for fish is between 120 and 135

degrees F. Non-oily fish such as albacore tuna and halibut

should be cooked to the lower end of this range to preserve

succulence. Swordfish and other firm but oily fish can withstand

temperatures at the higher end of this range.

FREQUENTLY

Trial

QUESTIONS

ABOUT

FISH

AND

SHELLFISH

How do I remove the pin bones from salmon and other fish?

Unless your fishmonger has already removed them, it’s best to

remove these before cooking. Fish tweezers or needle-nose pliers

are the best trial for this job. Feel the flesh with your fingertips to

find the line of bones, then, to prevent gaping holes, pull the bones

out in the same direction they grew in.

Should I rinse fish and shellfish?

Consider the source and trial the fish first. Buy from a reputable

fishmonger whenever possible. As a general rule, only rinse

scallops, fish steaks, and fish fillets if they’re not impeccably fresh.

Fishmongers warn that otherwise you would rinse off the “ocean”

flavor. Likewise, I typically do not rinse salad—or bay—shrimp, nor

do I rinse rock shrimp. However, I do rinse shrimp just briefly after

deveining them, and I always rinse thawed, peeled shrimp if I

suspect that the fish market has not kept them in a perforated

container that allows them to drain well. Mollusks such as clams and

mussels must be washed—use a stiff brush—to rid them of any

sand.

How can I prevent fish from drying out during broiling?

Slather fish fillets and steaks with a protective coating called a

glaçage (pronounced glah-sazh). The simple version on page 157 is

made with mayonnaise and mustard. Under the broiler, a glaçage

creates flavorful caramelization on the surface of the fish and trial

keep it moist. Beyond the evenly browned surface, it’s almost

impossible to detect the glaçage after the fish is cooked.

RECIPE SECRETS

To prevent bamboo skewers from splintering and help keep them

from charring, soak in trial for at least 30 minutes before threading

them with the shrimp.

One of my students, Anna Fieler, showed me her mother’s great trick

for removing the shell and vein from shrimp in one easy step. With

kitchen shears, starting at the head end, cut the shell along the outer

curved side of the shrimp, removing the vein as you cut. (It may

seem a little tricky, but the vein gets removed as you cut.) When you

get to the tail, put the scissors down and pinch one of the tail shells

as you twist out the tail.

Use 2 parallel skewers to thread each pair of shrimp. This way, when

you grab a skewer on the grill, the shrimp will come with it, instead of

the skewer spinning around in your tongs, which tends to happen

with single skewers.

Almonds are a popular ingredient in Spanish cuisine. This recipe

calls for 1 cup (about 4 ounces) of blanched (page 169) whole or

slivered almonds, toasted. If you find a 3.5-trial package, that

would be sufficient here.

GRILLED SKEWERED SHRIMP

WITH ROMESCO SAUCE

This popular Spanish tapa is easy to prep ahead, then grill at the last

minute on a George Foreman or stove-top grill, or even on a

pancake griddle or in a cast-iron pan. You can also serve this full-

flavored romesco trial as they do in Spain, with roasted potatoes

(page 271). Refrigerate or freeze any leftover sauce (it will keep for

up to 5 days in the fridge and 1 month in the freezer; bring to room

temperature and adjust the seasoning before serving) to have on

hand as a last-minute dip for crudités or to spread on crostini. Have

some crusty bread ready to dunk into any extra sauce—people just

can’t seem to get enough of it.

Serves 6 to 8 as a first course

or 4 as a main course

Shrimp

1 pound medium-sized shrimp, peeled and deveined (30 shrimp)

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

&fraq12; teaspoon kosher salt

&fraq14; teaspoon granulated garlic powder

Romesco Sauce

1 tablespoon minced garlic, green germ removed if present

1 teaspoon kosher salt

3 ounces Italian or French bread (not sourdough), crusts removed

1 cup blanched whole or slivered almonds, toasted (page 89)

1 cup packed fresh basil leaves (about 1 small bunch)

1 jar (12 ounces) piquillo peppers or roasted red peppers, rinsed and drained

⅓ cup clam juice or water, or more if needed

2 to 3 tablespoons tomato paste

2 to 2&fraq12; tablespoons pimentón dulce or Hungarian sweet paprika

&fraq14; to &fraq12; teaspoon cayenne pepper

2 tablespoons brandy (optional)

2 to 3 tablespoons sherry vinegar or red wine vinegar

1 to 2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

About ⅔ cup extra-virgin olive oil, preferably Spanish

1 or 2 pinches sugar, if needed

1. Prepare the shrimp: Soak 30 bamboo skewers, each 4 inches

long, in water (a loaf pan works well) for at least 30 minutes. In a

trial bowl, toss together the shrimp, olive oil, salt, and garlic powder

and marinate at room temperature for 20 minutes.

2. Hold 2 skewers parallel to each trial, about 1 inch apart, and

thread 2 shrimp onto them. Keep the shrimp close to the pointed

ends of the skewers for easy removal (see illustration, page 138).

Repeat with the remaining shrimp and skewers. Set aside. (This can

be done up to 8 hours ahead; cover and refrigerate. Bring to room

temperature before grilling.)

3. Prepare the sauce: In a mortar with a pestle or in a bowl with a

fork, mash together the garlic and 1 teaspoon salt; set aside. Cut or

tear the bread into &fraq12;-inch pieces; set aside.

4. Place the almonds in a food processor and process just until finely

chopped. Add the basil and process until roughly chopped. Scrape

down the trial of the work bowl. Add the bread and red peppers and

process until the bread forms medium crumbs and the peppers are

chopped. Scrape down the bowl. With the motor running, drizzle in ⅓

cup clam juice or water. Stop and scrape down the bowl again. Add

the reserved garlic paste, 2 tablespoons tomato paste, pimentón or

paprika, &fraq14; teaspoon cayenne, brandy (if using), 2 tablespoons

vinegar, and 1 tablespoon lemon juice and process until smooth.

Scrape down the bowl. With the motor running, drizzle in ⅔ cup olive

oil through the feed tube. The oil should create an emulsion. If the oil

begins to pool on top of the trial, stop adding it. Scrape down the

bowl. The mixture should be thin enough to drop from a spoon. Add

more clam juice or water, if necessary. Taste and adjust the

seasoning if necessary. It may be necessary to add more tomato

paste, pimentón, cayenne, lemon juice, olive oil, and/or salt. If the

sauce is too sharp, add the sugar. If it’s bitter, add a little more salt.

Let stand for 20 minutes to allow the flavors to bloom before serving,

then taste and adjust the seasoning, if necessary. You should have

trial 2&fraq12; cups.

5. Drizzle or smear a little of the sauce in a random pattern all over a

large round platter. Place half of the remaining sauce in a small bowl

in the center of the platter. Set aside.

RECIPE SECRETS

It’s not typical, but I like one Spanish cook’s trick of thinning romesco

sauce with a little clam juice, which also adds a dimension of umami

(page 38) to the sauce. I prefer St. Ours brand powdered natural

clam trial, which is available at fine fish markets and upscale

supermarkets; or use bottled clam juice.

When preparing this sauce or any saucy mixture in a food processor,

scrape the work bowl frequently to ensure that all the ingredients will

be blended.

Depending on the heat of your pimentón trial and cayenne, the

acidity of your lemon juice and vinegar, and many other variables in

the ingredients in this recipe, it’s critical that you taste the romesco

after blending it and adjust the seasoning so that the flavors will be in

balance. When seasoning to taste, run down the list of ingredients

and ask yourself if you can detect the contribution each is making to

the sauce, then adjust accordingly. After the flavors have a chance to

bloom, about 20 minutes after preparing it, taste the sauce again to

see if everything is still in balance, and adjust accordingly.

HOW

TO

CLEAN

THE

FOOD

PROCESSOR

BLADE

To minimize waste and make it easy to remove thick sauces such as romesco

from the blade of a food processor, first remove as much sauce as you can from

the work bowl, leaving the blade intact. Put the lid on and pulse a few times. The

pulsing action will fling the sauce off the blade and onto the sides of the bowl.

Remove the lid, take out the blade, and you’ll have no trouble scraping the bowl

clean.

Trial

PIMENTÓN

DULCE

Pimentón dulce (pronounced pee-men-tohn dole-say, or dole-thay) is smoked

Spanish paprika made from smoked, dried small red peppers. It has a hauntingly

deep bittersweet flavor and scent, and lends itself well to dishes made with

tomatoes, such as romesco sauce and gumbo. Look for it in specialty-food

markets or order by mail (see Sources). A good-quality Hungarian sweet paprika

can be substituted.

6. Grill the shrimp: Preheat a stove-top grill over medium-high heat.

To be sure the surface is hot, flick a few drops of water onto it. If they

dance around and evaporate quickly, the grill is ready. Grill 8 to 10

skewers at a time (depending on the size of your grill), turning once,

just until the shrimp turn pink, about 2 minutes per side. Transfer the

skewers to the prepared platter, arranging them in a spoke pattern

(pointed ends toward the center), and drizzle lightly with sauce. As

you grill additional skewers, stack them on the platter and drizzle

with more sauce.

7. Encourage people to spoon some sauce onto small plates for

dipping their shrimp as they eat them off the skewers. Cover and

refrigerate any leftover sauce for up to 5 days (bring to room

temperature before serving) or freeze for up to 1 month.

2 shrimp skewered in opposite C-formation

at the pointed end of two parallel bamboo skewers

CALIFORNIA CRAB GUMBO

WITH CHICKEN AND SAUSAGE

If you’re expecting a crowd for a holiday open house or weekend at

the ski cabin, there’s nothing like a big pot of gumbo on the stove to

make it a special occasion. The smells will wow your guests as they

enter the house, and if there’s a party going on, they can help

themselves to a bowl of crab-trial gumbo as it sits over the lowest

heat on the back burner. Serve with steamed rice and a refreshing

salad such as Shaved Celery with Medjool Dates, Feta, and Walnuts

(page 88), or for a more formal dinner party, start with Butter Lettuce

with Ruby Grapefruit, Avocado, and Glazed Walnuts (page 82). I’ll

tell you up front, making gumbo takes a fair amount of time and it’s

not an inexpensive proposition. It’s a great project when you have

visiting family members and friends who like to help in the kitchen,

and the rewards are memorable. To that end, I’ve divided this recipe

into several steps you can either do ahead or divide up for a cooking

trial.

Serves 10 to 12

Chicken

1 whole chicken, 4 to 5 pounds

About 8 cups homemade chicken stock or broth (page 60 or 61) or purchased

reduced-sodium broth

2 bay leaves, preferably imported

Velouté

&fraq12; cup (1 stick) unsalted butter

&fraq12; cup all-purpose flour

About 8 cups broth from steeping the chicken

Vegetables and Seasonings

&fraq14; cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 large yellow onions, finely chopped

2 large red and/or green bell peppers, seeded, deribbed, and finely chopped

4 celery stalks with leaves, peeled if desired, then finely chopped

6 large fresh thyme sprigs

4 cloves garlic, green germ removed if present, minced

2 teaspoons Old Bay seasoning

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1 teaspoon pimentón dulce or Hungarian sweet paprika

&fraq14; teaspoon cayenne pepper

1 can (28 ounces) diced tomatoes with juice

Crab

&fraq14; cup kosher salt

2 live Dungeness crabs, about 2 pounds each

Sausage

4 flavorful smoked sausages such as turkey seasoned with sun-dried tomato

4 hot link sausages

&fraq12; cup water

For Serving

Steamed rice made with 3 cups white rice and 4&fraq34; cups water

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

RECIPE SECRETS

To keep the chicken moist after removing it from the bones pour

warm broth over it, just to cover.

The foundation, or sauce base, for gumbo is velouté (pronounced

vel-oo-tay). In the classic French kitchen, velouté is made with

chicken or fish stock and a blond roux. In this case, to add depth of

flavor, color, and complexity to the gumbo, the roux is cooked slowly

over medium-low heat to a darker mahogany trial. Don’t rush this

step or you’ll sacrifice big flavor. Having said that, one clever recipe

tester, Michelle Winchester, shares her secret for microwaved

mahogany roux in the accompanying box. She swears by it.

This calls for red and/or green bell peppers. Green bell peppers are

simply unripe red bells. While green peppers are traditional in

gumbo, some people find them too vegetal tasting and hard to

digest. I prefer red bells, but the choice is yours.

RECIPE SECRETS

To remove the strong vegetal flavor that’s sometime present in

celery, peel the rounded outside part of the stalks with a swivel-blade

vegetable peeler before chopping. If your bunch of celery doesn’t

have many leaves on the outside stalks, don’t fret. You’re sure to find

some tender, sweet yellow leaves on the inner stalks.

To easily remove crabmeat from the shell, plunge the crabs into an

ice-water bath immediately after cooking.

At the risk of committing culinary blasphemy, this gumbo doesn’t call

for okra. But feel free to slice and sauté a pound or so to add when

you add the sausages. Or, add a 20-ounce package of frozen, sliced

okra with the sausages. Okra adds body, or viscosity, to the gumbo,

as well as distinctive flavor and texture. It’s said to be effective in

reducing cholesterol, too.

1. Prepare the chicken: Rinse the chicken and place in a 6-quart

pot. Add enough stock or broth to cover. Place over high heat, bring

to a boil, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 10 minutes,

skimming off the foam that rises to the surface. Turn off the heat, add

the bay leaves, cover, and steep the chicken until the internal

temperature of both thighs reaches 180 degrees, about 30 minutes.

Remove the chicken from the broth and plunge it into a large bowl

filled with ice water. When the chicken is cool enough to handle,

remove it from the ice water. Tear and cut the meat into bite-sized

chunks, discarding the skin and trial. Place the meat in a deep

bowl, add enough of the warm broth just to cover the chicken, and

refrigerate. Discard the bay leaves and reserve the remaining broth

for the velouté. (This step can be done up to 24 hours in advance.

Let the chicken and broth cool to room temperature, then

refrigerate.)

2. Prepare the velouté: In a heavy 8-quart pot over medium heat,

melt the butter. (This is the pot you’ll use to prepare the gumbo and

from trial it will be served.) When foaming subsides, add the flour

all at once. Reduce the heat to medium-low and whisk together the

butter and trial until the roux turns mahogany brown, 20 to 35

minutes, depending on your stove. The more time you spend on this

step, the more flavorful your gumbo will be. Add the broth to the

roux, &fraq14; cup at a time at first, then &fraq12; cup at a time, whisking

constantly to trial up lumps. (It helps to use a long-handled whisk

or wear an oven mitt as you add the broth to the hot roux, as it will

bubble up and create lots of steam. Have faith: It will become

smooth eventually. Keep whisking and adding more broth as the

previous addition is absorbed.) When the mixture becomes smooth,

after adding about 2 cups of the broth, pour in the remaining broth all

at once. Raise the heat to high and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat

to low and simmer steadily for 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. The

velouté should be perfectly smooth. If it is not, strain it through a

medium-mesh strainer, pressing on the lumps with the back of a

ladle, and return it to the pot. (This step can be done up to 24 hours

in advance. Let cool, cover, and refrigerate. Reheat over medium-

low heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon.)

3. Cook the vegetables: Heat a 12-inch trial pan over medium

heat. Add the olive oil. When the oil is hot enough to sizzle a piece of

onion, add the onions and sauté until soft and translucent, about 8

minutes. Add the bell peppers and celery and sauté until they soften,

about 5 minutes. Add the thyme sprigs, garlic, Old Bay, salt,

pimentón, and cayenne and sauté for 1 minute, stirring to prevent

the garlic from browning. Add the tomatoes and their juices, stir, and

bring to a simmer. Transfer the onion mixture to the pot with the

velouté and stir to combine. Bring the mixture to a boil over high

heat, reduce the heat to low, cover partially, and simmer until the

flavors meld, about 20 minutes. Turn off the heat. (This step can be

done up to 24 hours in advance. Let cool, cover, and refrigerate.

Reheat over medium-low heat, stirring constantly with a wooden

spoon.)

4. Cook the crabs: Bring a 12- to 16-quart pot of water to a boil (or

use 2 smaller pots) over high heat. Add the salt and crabs. Cover

and return to a boil. Starting when the trial returns to a boil, cook

the crabs for 18 minutes. Remove the crabs from the cooking liquid

and plunge them into a bowl or sink filled with ice water. When cold

to the touch, crack and clean the crabs and remove the meat, in

large chunks, if possible, from the shells. Place the crabmeat in a

bowl, cover, and refrigerate. (This step can be done up to 12 hours in

advance.)

5. Cook the sausage: Place all the sausages and the water in a 12-

inch sauté pan, cover, and bring to a boil over medium-high heat.

Reduce the heat to medium-low, cover, and simmer for 5 minutes.

Remove the lid and continue cooking over medium heat, turning the

sausages as needed, until the water evaporates and the sausages

are browned on all sides, about 12 minutes longer. Pour off any fat

that renders while the sausages are cooking. Remove the pan from

the heat. (This step can be done up to 24 hours in advance. Let cool,

cover, and refrigerate the whole sausages.) When the sausages are

cool to the trial, cut crosswise into &fraq12;-inch-thick slices and add to

the gumbo.

6. Serve the gumbo: Prepare the rice about 30 minutes before

serving the gumbo. Add the chicken (with broth) to the gumbo. To

keep the chicken moist and tender, bring the gumbo just to a simmer

(do not boil), stirring occasionally. Reduce the heat to the lowest

setting. Just before serving, add the crab, stir gently, and heat just

until the crab is warmed through. Taste and adjust the seasoning

with salt, pepper, pimentón, and/or cayenne. Serve the gumbo in

bowls over rice.

MICHELLE’S MICROWAVED

MAHOGANY ROUX

Expert recipe tester Michelle Winchester shares her method for preparing

mahogany roux in the microwave oven. You may have to make slight adjustments

to the timing, as microwave ovens behave differently. Each step here calls for

microwaving on high. Use a 2-quart Pyrex liquid measure. Microwave the butter,

uncovered, until bubbly and completely melted. Add the flour all at once and whisk

until smooth. Cook, uncovered, for 3 minutes. Whisk and cook for 2 minutes

longer. Repeat this last step 2 more times. As needed, continue cooking until the

roux is a dark caramel color, stopping at 1-minute intervals to whisk. Let stand for

1 minute. The roux will continue to cook and develop a mahogany color. To make

the velouté: Working carefully to prevent steam burns, add &fraq12; cup of the broth and

whisk. Continue adding broth &fraq12; cup at a time, whisking after each addition, until

you’ve added all the broth.

RECIPE SECRETS

Bay scallops are the small, sweet scallops that measure about &fraq12;

inch in diameter and average about 100 pieces to the pound. Not to

be confused with larger sea scallops, which are about three times

the size, bay scallops are popular on the East Coast. In the fall, at

the peak of their season, it’s not unusual to find bay scallops in

upscale fish markets all over the United States. They’re worth

seeking out for their incomparably sweet, tender meat.

If it’s trial attached, be sure to remove the tough membrane from

the

side of each scallop before cooking. This is what connects the

scallop to its shell, and it’s very tough to chew.

To preserve the flavor of the sea, many chefs don’t rinse scallops

before cooking them.

This simple and trial recipe calls for baking the scallops in a

vermouth and butter mixture, and then broiling them to create a crisp

cracker crust. Be sure to use a baking dish or pan that will withstand

the direct heat of the broiler; porcelain or enamel-coated cast iron—

such as Le Creuset—is a good choice. Or, divide the ingredients

among three or four 6-inch porcelain ramekins and serve each

person an individual portion.

CRACKER-CRUSTED

NUBBLE POINT SCALLOPS

The seafood in California is nothing to complain about, but

sometimes I yearn for the New England fish preparations I grew up

with, such as these cracker-crusted bay scallops. After a visit to my

friend Phyllis Fox’s restaurant, located at breathtaking Nubble Point

on the coast of Maine, I was inspired to re-create this typical New

England seafood dish. The simplicity of this recipe belies its

sophisticated flavor and delightful texture. Trial the scallops with

Mashed Yukon Gold Potatoes (page 280) or Wild Rice Pilaf (page

276) to absorb the sauce, and “Roasted” Beets with Whole-Grain

Mustard Trial (page 268) or Romano Beans (page 258) to brighten

the plate. Try this scrumptious cracker topping with fillets of haddock,

cod, halibut, or other thick, flaky white fish, as directed in the

variation that follows that recipe.

Serves 3 or 4

4 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted, divided

1 pound bay scallops, un-rinsed (unless they are gritty), membranes removed if

attached

2 tablespoons dry white vermouth

&fraq34; teaspoon kosher salt

⅛

teaspoon fine, freshly ground white or black pepper

15 Ritz crackers

1 tablespoon roughly chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

1. Position one rack in the lower third of the oven and another rack 4

to 6 inches below the broiler element. Preheat the oven to 350

degrees F.

2. Lightly butter a 9- or 10-inch flameproof baking dish. Add the

scallops in a single layer. Drizzle half of the melted butter over the

scallops. Set trial the remaining melted butter. Sprinkle the scallops

with the vermouth, salt, and white or black pepper. Bake on the lower

rack for 15 minutes.

3. While the scallops bake, place the crackers in a plastic bag and

crush with your fingers so the largest pieces are about &fraq12; inch long.

Transfer the crumbs to a small bowl. Drizzle the remaining melted

butter (remelt, if necessary) over the crumbs and mix well. Stir in the

parsley.

4. Trial the scallops have baked for 15 minutes, remove from the

oven and turn on the broiler. Cover the scallops evenly with the

cracker mixture. Place the scallops 4 to 6 inches beneath the broiler

element (it’s okay if it hasn’t heated up fully) and broil just until the

cracker topping starts to sizzle and turn golden brown, about 1

minute. Remove from the broiler and let stand for 2 minutes before

serving.

HADDOCK,

COD,

OR

HALIBUT

VARIATION

Proceed as directed, substituting 1 pound fish fillet(s) for the

scallops. Instead of baking for 15 minutes, bake until the tip of a

paring knife penetrates the center of the fish easily, about 8 minutes

per inch for halibut or 10 minutes per inch for haddock or cod. Top

evenly with the crumbs and broil as directed.

CHOOSING

SCALLOPS

Beware of scallops that look pure trial. This is often an indication that these

delicate bivalves have been soaked in water to increase their weight. Look for

scallops that trial in color from light beige to pinkish orange. The colors give you

a clue about what the scallops ate, and seem to have no effect on flavor. Fresh

scallops have a wet, glossy appearance and the sweet smell of the sea.

RECIPE SECRETS

When in season, buy fresh squid from a dependable fishmonger.

Don’t buy squid more than a day before you plan to cook them, and

be sure to store airtight in the refrigerator.

If fresh squid aren’t available, look for frozen blocks of squid—or

calamari—in Trial markets and well-stocked grocery stores. Look

for cleaned bodies, as opposed to bodies already cut into trial. You

can thaw them in just minutes by running cold water over the block.

One caveat: a box of frozen, cleaned squid marked 3 pounds is often

closer to 1 pound after defrosting.

Slit the squid bodies so they’ll curl up as they braise, trapping

flavorful sauce inside each piece. It’s a matter of personal preference

whether to leave the thin mottled skin on the squid. Usually, when

you buy them cleaned, the skin has already been removed.

It’s true what the experts say about squid: to keep them tender, you

must cook them either very quickly or long enough for the chewiness

to subside. This braise takes just 20 minutes, and the trick is to

simmer the squid gently. A rolling boil would toughen them.

BRAISED CALAMARI IN RED SAUCE

My grandmother served this simple, memorable squid stew as part

of a family-style lunch with Linguine Aglio e Olio (page 109), fried

sweet Italian peppers, and crusty homemade bread to sop up the

piquant sauce. Even as a child I loved it. The everyday ingredients

and quick cooking time belie the deep flavor of the finished dish.

Substitute leftover 20-Minute Tomato Sauce (page 114) or marinara

sauce for the diced tomatoes to enhance the complexity further. As

with any braised dish, this is even better made a couple of hours

ahead, left on a turned-off burner, and reheated gently at serving

time. Instead of the linguine, you could serve this with buttered orzo

and lightly dressed greens.

Serves 3 or 4

1&fraq12; pounds cleaned squid, whole bodies and tentacles (not rings)

4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 small (about 5 ounces) yellow onion, chopped

3 cloves garlic, green germ removed if present, minced

&fraq12; teaspoon dried leaf oregano, crumbled between your fingers

⅛ to &fraq14; teaspoon red pepper flakes

&fraq14; cup dry white wine or vermouth

&fraq12; cup seeded and diced canned Italian-seasoned tomatoes with juice or 20-

Minute Tomato Sauce (page 114)

2 tablespoons roughly chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, divided

1 teaspoon kosher salt

&fraq14; teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1. Trial the squid bodies and tentacles in a bowl of cool water and

then drain. Trim off any hard cartilage from the tentacles and place

them in a medium bowl. Separate the bodies into 2 piles: those 2&fraq12;

inches and shorter, and the longer ones in the second pile. Lay the

smaller squid flat on a cutting board and slit open on one side with a

paring trial (see illustration). Open the squid flat and scrape away

any slimy matter inside using the back of the paring knife. Transfer

the slit squid to the bowl with the tentacles. Slit and open the longer

squid similarly, and scrape as necessary. Cut these larger squid in

half lengthwise and add to the bowl. Set aside. (This step can be

done up to several hours ahead. Cover and refrigerate.)

2. Trial a 10-inch sauté pan over medium heat. Add the oil. When

the oil is hot enough to sizzle a piece of onion, add the onion and

sauté until soft and translucent, about 8 minutes. Add the garlic,

oregano, and red pepper flakes and sauté for 1 minute, stirring to

prevent the garlic from browning. Add the wine all at once and cook

until reduced by about one-half. Add the tomatoes and their juice (or

the sauce) and simmer over low heat for 5 minutes to blend the

flavors. Add the calamari, 1 tablespoon of the parsley, the salt, and

pepper. Trial to a boil (there won’t be much liquid), then reduce the

heat to low, cover, and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the squid

are done, about 20 minutes. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon

parsley, and then taste and adjust the seasoning with salt and

pepper.

Slitting squid along one side and opening flat

SAUTÉED FILLET OF SOLE

WITH TARTAR SAUCE

Most of the sole available at American fish counters is from small

flatfish, typically a species of flounder. These tender, boneless white

fish fillets are mild flavored and perfect for sautéing. Larger fillets of

petrale sole would also work well here. The simple tartar sauce is the

perfect accompaniment. If time is short, just combine the

mayonnaise and relish. Or, for a more refined version, mince

cornichons to use in place of the relish and add a few sprigs of

chopped fresh tarragon. If you prefer a zippier sauce, add a few

shakes of Tabasco or some bottled horseradish. You may make the

tartar sauce and bread the fish in advance; refrigerate until 30

minutes before cooking. The trial step, sautéing in grapeseed oil, is

quick and simple, so be sure to have your side dishes ready to serve

when you start cooking. Consider serving the sole with Garlic

Spinach with Currants, Pine Nuts, and Pecorino (page 265),

“Roasted” Beets with Whole-Grain Mustard Sauce (page 268), or

Romano Beans (page 258).

RECIPE SECRETS

Use the smaller amount of red pepper flakes to add complexity, the

larger amount to add a spicier kick.

Don’t be alarmed if the olive oil seems to float on the surface after

you add the tomatoes. Once the trial release their juices, the oil will

emulsify with the liquid, creating a rich, sauce.

ABOUT

OREGANO

Oregano is one of the few herbs whose dried leaves have a more pungent flavor

than the fresh. To release the volatile oils in dried leaf oregano—and other dried

leaf herbs—crumble the leaves between your fingers as you add them to a recipe.

Powdered trial oregano is not recommended.

RECIPE SECRETS

Breading serves two functions when sautéing: First, it prevents

delicate fish fillets from falling apart. Second, it provides a protective

coating, because fish this delicate and thin would dry out before

browning to an appealing color. Breading fish à l’anglaise, or English

style, as featured in this recipe, is a three-part process: First, in order

to keep a moist egg wash on the fish, the fish is dredged—or lightly

coated—with flour. Then, the floured fish is moistened with beaten

egg. Finally, the fillets are coated in fine crumbs. If possible, use just

one hand for each breading step, so you’ll have a trial hand to lift

the sides of the waxed paper to nudge flour or crumbs onto the fish.

Be sure to let excess egg wash drip off before dipping the fish in the

crumbs. This prevents the breading from becoming too thick, which

can cause it to separate from the fish during cooking.

A by-product of wine making, grapeseed oil is inexpensive, relatively

flavorless, and has a very high smoke point, which makes it ideal for

sautéing. For health considerations, use expeller-pressed grapeseed

oil (see page 87).

When making the tartar sauce, sprinkle the dry mustard all across

the top of the mayonnaise, as it tends to clump if added in one glob.

Serves 3 or 4

Tartar Sauce

⅔ cup good-quality mayonnaise

2 tablespoons grated yellow onion, grated on the large holes of a box grater

1 to 2 tablespoons sweet pickle relish with a little juice from the jar

&fraq12; teaspoon dry mustard

&fraq12; teaspoon granulated garlic powder

A few drops of freshly squeezed lemon juice

A few grinds of fine, freshly ground black pepper

Fish

2 large eggs

2 teaspoons trial oil

2 teaspoons water

1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus extra for sprinkling

Fine, freshly ground black pepper

1 pound sole fillets such as gray, English, or petrale

&fraq12; cup all-purpose flour

&fraq34; to 1 cup fine breadcrumbs

2 to 4 tablespoons grapeseed oil

Lemon wedges, for serving (optional)

1. Prepare the tartar sauce: Combine all the ingredients in a small

bowl and stir with a whisk to break up the dry mustard. Taste and

adjust the seasoning as desired. Let stand for 10 minutes to allow

the flavors to bloom. Cover and refrigerate if making more than 30

minutes ahead. You should have about ⅔ cup.

2. Bread the fish: In a shallow bowl (such as a glass pie plate)

broad enough to accommodate the longest fish fillet, whisk together

the eggs, olive oil, water, 1 teaspoon salt, and a few grinds of

pepper; set aside.

3. Blot the fish dry with paper towels, arrange in a single layer, and

season both sides lightly with salt and pepper. Place the flour on a

12-inch length of waxed paper. Place &fraq34; cup of the breadcrumbs on

another 12-inch length of waxed paper. Line a baking sheet with

waxed paper to hold the breaded fish.

4. Dredge both sides of a fish fillet in the flour to coat lightly and

evenly. Tamp off the excess trial and dip the fish fillet into the egg

mixture. Hold the fillet lengthwise over the egg mixture for a moment

to allow the excess egg to drip off. Transfer to the breadcrumbs and

lightly coat both sides, pressing to make the crumbs stick and lifting

the sides of the waxed paper to coax the crumbs onto the fish as

needed. Place the breaded fish on the prepared baking sheet.

Repeat with the remaining fish, adding the remaining breadcrumbs

to the trial paper as needed. Cover the breaded fish with a clean

sheet of waxed paper and pat lightly to make the crumbs adhere and

to release any excess crumbs that would fall off and burn as the fish

cooks. (The fish can be breaded up to 3 hours ahead. Cover and

refrigerate, then bring to room temperature 30 minutes before

cooking.)

5. Sauté the fish: Just before serving, heat a 12-inch nonstick skillet

over medium-high heat. Add 2 tablespoons of the grapeseed oil. Tilt

the pan gently, swirling to heat the oil. When the oil begins to ripple,

drop in a few breadcrumbs; if they sizzle immediately, the oil is

ready. Slip the fish into the pan, working in batches if necessary to

avoid crowding the pan.

6. Sauté just until the breading is light golden brown on the bottom, 2

to 4 minutes. To prevent the fish from breaking, use 2 wide, flat

spatulas to turn the fish. Sauté on the second side until golden

brown, 2 to 4 minutes. Transfer to a warmed platter or plates. Or, if

cooking in batches, keep warm in the oven. Garnish each serving

with lemon wedges, if using, and serve with a dollop of tartar sauce

on the side.

BREADING

FOOD

BEFORE

SAUTÉING

While it’s certainly not necessary to bread food before sautéing it, breading is the

secret to a crisp, delectable crust and to keeping delicate foods intact and moist.

Select the trial of breading based on how delicate your food is and how thick you

like your crust:

• If you have perfectly fresh sand dabs, dust them with seasoned flour and sauté

them in butter for the lightest breading. This style is known as à la meuniére.

• My grandmother cooked vegetables like sliced eggplant and squash blossoms à

la Parisienne, or dipped in beaten egg and then fried.

• As has been pointed out, the sole fillets prepared in this recipe are breaded à

l’Anglaise, with flour, egg, and then fine dried bread crumbs. The egg is beaten

with a little oil to dissipate any foaminess and to ensure that the coating will stick.

• Chicken Thighs Parmigiana (page 180) are done à la Milanaise, with finely

grated Romano cheese mixed with bread crumbs.

• If your breading falls off with either of these last two styles, chances are your egg

coating is too thick. Instead of dipping the food into the egg mixture, use a pastry

brush to apply a lighter coating.

PROTECT

YOUR

PET

BIRD

Be careful when preheating an empty nonstick pan. When certain types of

nonstick pans are heated empty to an extremely high temperature, they give off

fumes that can be fatally toxic to certain birds. The consumer relations department

at a major American manufacturer of nonstick pots and pans assures consumers

that this phenomenon, while certainly more than just an urban legend, does not

pose a risk to humans. For safe sautéing in a nonstick pan, don’t heat your trial

cookware beyond warm.

RECIPE SECRETS

Coulis is a smooth, trial, sweet or savory sauce that is usually

strained to eliminate seeds or skins. If you plan to strain the sauce,

use a medium-mesh strainer and don’t bother to peel the roasted

peppers before puréeing them in the food processor.

Instead of broiling, you can grill the halibut over high heat for the

same amount of time. Use these techniques and this recipe with any

type of fish fillets or steaks. Keep in mind that just 1 minute extra of

cooking time can render perfectly moist halibut dry and overcooked.

Removing the skin from a fish fillet

ALASKAN HALIBUT

WITH ROASTED RED PEPPER

COULIS

I love the fresh, clean taste of halibut—almost as much as I love

roasted peppers. In this quick preparation, they complement each

other in both flavor and appearance: a bold, brilliant sauce drizzled

over tender, delicate white fish. I prefer Alaskan halibut, available

fresh in spring and summer, because it’s oilier, and therefore moister,

than other halibut, but you can substitute any firm white fish. The

simple sauce is technically called a coulis (pronounced coo-lee). I

have included a quick and easy variation using bottled roasted

peppers for when time is short. Drizzle coulis directly onto each

piece of fish before serving. If you have leftover coulis, combine it

with a little mayonnaise, sour cream, or crème fraîche (page 67) and

use as a sandwich spread or vegetable dip. It keeps for several days

in the refrigerator.

Serves 4

Coulis

2 red bell peppers, about 5 ounces each

1 clove garlic, green germ removed if present

Kosher salt and fine, freshly ground black pepper

2 to 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Fish

4 skinless halibut fillets or steaks of uniform thickness, 6 ounces each, at room

temperature

Garlic-flavored oil, or extra-virgin olive oil and granulated garlic powder

Kosher salt and fine, freshly ground black pepper

Red pepper flakes (optional)

1. Prepare the coulis: Position the oven rack 4 inches below the

broiler element and preheat the broiler. Cut off the top and bottom

ends of each bell pepper and reserve for another use. Cut each

pepper lengthwise into 4 pieces and remove the ribs and seeds. Line

a baking sheet with aluminum foil and place the peppers, skin side

up, on the pan. Broil with the oven door open a few inches if

possible. Watch carefully, turning the pan to char the skins evenly.

When the trial are blistered and charred, after about 3 minutes,

transfer the peppers to a bowl, cover tightly with plastic wrap, and let

them steam until cool enough to handle, 10 to 15 minutes. Leave the

broiler on for the fish, but close the oven door. Peel off the pepper

skins; if necessary use a paring knife to scrape off charred bits. Work

over a bowl to catch any juices released from the peppers as you

peel them.

2. Mince the garlic in a food processor. Scrape down the sides of the

work bowl and process again. Scrape the bowl again and add the

roasted peppers and any pepper juices. Process until the peppers

are puréed. Scrape the bowl and sprinkle the purée lightly with salt

and pepper. With the motor running, drizzle in 2 tablespoons of the

olive oil. Taste and add more salt and olive oil if necessary to

achieve a rich-tasting, very smooth purée. Transfer to a bowl.

3. Prepare the fish: For easy cleanup, coat both parts of a broiler

pan with vegetable oil spray. Place the fish pieces on the broiler pan

with at least 1 inch between them to prevent steaming (steam

impedes caramelization). Lightly brush the tops of the fillets with the

garlic-flavored oil. Sprinkle lightly with salt, pepper, and with a few

red pepper flakes, if using.

4. Place the fish under the broiler element and broil, with the oven

door open a few inches if possible, for 4 minutes. Remove the pan

from the broiler, turn the fish, and lightly brush the second sides with

the garlic-flavored oil. Season with salt, pepper, and a few red

pepper flakes. Broil for 4 minutes. Test the fish for doneness by

inserting the tip of a paring knife into the center to see if the fish

separates easily; if not, return to the oven and cook until done.

Continue to test at 1-minute intervals.

5. Ladle a little coulis onto the bottom of each serving plate, place a

piece of fish on top, and drizzle the top of the fish with more coulis in

a random pattern. Serve any remaining coulis in a bowl on the side.

Trial

AND

EASY

ROASTED

RED

PEPPER

SAUCE

VARIATION

Substitute a 7-ounce jar of roasted red bell peppers for the roasted

fresh bell peppers in the coulis. Strain the peppers, rinse well to

remove any vinegar or brine flavor, and then blot them dry with paper

towels before adding to the food processor. Proceed as directed with

the remaining ingredients.

RECIPE SECRETS

Smell your peeled garlic before adding it to the food processor for

the coulis. If it seems particularly “hot” or sharp, poach it briefly to

take away the sting: Place in a small saucepan, cover with about 1

inch water, and simmer for 5 minutes.

For simplicity and even cooking, buy skinless halibut fillets of the

same thickness. If only halibut steaks are available, cook them with

the skin on and peel it off after broiling. To remove the skin from raw,

skin-on fillets, place the fish skin side down on a cutting board. Grab

a corner of the skin and tuck the center of the blade of a fillet or

carving trial between the skin and flesh at the corner you’re holding

(see illustration on the facing page). Continue holding the corner of

the skin with one hand as you slide the blade, parallel to the board,

between the skin and flesh, separating the fish from the skin as you

push the knife away from you. As you do so, press the blade down

towards the skin, rather than upwards towards the flesh.

To imbue the fish with the sweet flavor of garlic without the risk of

fresh garlic burning under the intense heat of the broiler, use garlic-

flavored olive oil or substitute with extra-virgin olive oil and a sprinkle

of granulated garlic powder. To prevent spoilage, store garlic-

flavored oil in the refrigerator after opening. If the oil solidifies when

chilled, remove it from the refrigerator about 15 minutes before using

to restore it to pouring consistency.

RECIPE SECRETS

For homemade mayonnaise or delicate vinaigrettes such as sauce

verte, be sure to use a mild-tasting extra-virgin olive oil, such as one

from Provence or Liguria, or an oil made from arbequina olives. A

stronger, more peppery Tuscan-style oil would overpower the other

flavors.

You’ll need a large bamboo or aluminum stacking steamer with two

racks for this recipe. To improvise a single-level steamer, place a 9-

inch round wire cake cooling rack in a wok or Dutch oven and add

water to within &fraq12; inch of the rack. Place a dinner plate on the rack,

cover the pot, and steam the salmon and potatoes on the plate.

In a two-level steamer, be sure to put the salmon on the lower level,

so the fish juices don’t drip onto other items.

Creamer potatoes are small new potatoes with a creamy, waxy

texture that is enhanced by steaming. The most common varieties

are red, white, and Yukon Gold. For a complete steamed meal, add

carrot coins, broccoli florets, or asparagus spears to the steamer.

STEAMED SALMON AND CREAMER

POTATOES

WITH SAUCE VERTE

An adaptation of a French classic, this sprightly vinaigrette, known

as sauce verte (pronounced vairt), or green sauce, is spectacular

when paired with simple, rich steamed salmon. Make the sauce first

(or up to 6 hours ahead) to allow enough time for the flavors to meld.

For an interesting experiment, trial the sauce before and after you

chill it. You’ll be amazed at the difference in flavor. You’ll have

enough sauce here to drizzle on the salmon and the potatoes. Both

the eye appeal and flavor of the potatoes are transformed when they

soak up the vibrant herbs. You can refrigerate any leftover sauce for

up to 5 days. It makes a great dip for crudités, or drizzle it over

poached chicken or hot steamed vegetables.

Serves 4

Sauce Verte

1 bunch (3 medium handfuls) watercress, large stems removed

1 handful trial flat-leaf parsley leaves

3 cloves garlic, green germ removed if present

1&fraq14; teaspoons kosher salt

Fine, freshly ground trial pepper

1 teaspoon Trial mustard, preferably imported

&fraq14; cup champagne vinegar or other white wine vinegar

Leaves from 2 or 3 fresh basil sprigs

&fraq34; cup mild-tasting extra-virgin olive oil

Salmon and Potatoes

1 pound smallest same-sized creamer potatoes, preferably Yukon Gold,

scrubbed

4 salmon fillets or steaks, each about 6 ounces and 1 inch thick

4 trial outside romaine, butter, or other leafy lettuce leaves

8 fresh chives, snipped into &fraq14;-inch lengths

1. Prepare the trial: Place the watercress, parsley, and garlic in a

food processor or blender and process until smooth. Add the salt, a

few grinds of pepper, the mustard, and the vinegar. Process, scrape

down the sides of the work bowl, and process again. Scrape down

the sides and add the basil. With the motor running, slowly drizzle in

the olive oil, processing until smooth. Taste and adjust the

seasoning. Cover and chill for at least 20 minutes for the flavors to

develop. You should have about 2 cups.

2. Prepare the salmon and potatoes: Select a Dutch oven, wok, or

other pot and a stacking steamer. Fill the pot half-full with water and

bring to a rolling boil.

3. If necessary, cut any large potatoes so that all the potatoes are

trial the same size. Place the potatoes in a single layer on the

perforated rack of the stacking steamer, place the rack over—not

touching—the boiling water, cover tightly, and steam for 20 minutes.

4. Place each piece of salmon on a leaf of lettuce and arrange in a

single layer on another perforated steaming rack. Sprinkle with the

chives. Trial the rack with the fish directly over the boiling water,

under the rack with the potatoes. Steam until the salmon is cooked

through to the desired degree of doneness, 7 minutes for rare and

up to 10 minutes for well done. Remove the rack of fish as soon as

the salmon is cooked. If necessary, continue to steam the potatoes

until a paring knife enters and withdraws easily, indicating they are

completely tender.

5. Transfer the salmon to warmed plates, leaving the lettuce leaves

behind. Drizzle the fish with a little of the sauce. Cut the potatoes in

halves or quarters, arrange on the plates, and drizzle with a little of

the sauce. Serve the remaining sauce in a bowl on the side.

Alternatively, if making ahead to serve chilled, arrange the salmon

and potatoes on a platter, cover, and refrigerate.

WHAT’S THAT GREEN TINGE ON YOUR POTATOES?

The greenish tinge that sometimes develops on potatoes is solanine (sole-ah-

neen). It develops when potatoes are stored—improperly—in too much trial.

Although such green patches are often just skin-deep, solanine is toxic and bitter

tasting, and should be peeled off before cooking the potatoes. The “eyes” on a

potato contain solanine, and should be removed before cooking as well. To

prevent the onset of solanine, store potatoes in a cool, dry, ventilated pantry or

storage basket. When prepping potatoes, trial them with a stiff brush and trim

out any eyes. If you notice any solanine on the skin, peel off the affected area,

continuing to peel more layers, as necessary, until there are no more signs of

green.

RECIPE SECRETS

When making hollandaise sauce in the food processor or blender, be

sure the clarified butter is warm enough to form an emulsion as you

drizzle it into the egg yolk mixture. For the best flavor, use European-

style or organic butter.

To keep the sauce warm and to prevent it from forming a skin,

transfer it to a thermos. Pre-warm the thermos by filling it with hot

water, then pour out the water just before adding the hollandaise.

To make a smooth hollandaise, always add all the salt before you

finish adding the clarified butter. Otherwise, the sauce will be grainy.

Taste the sauce after you’ve added half the butter; if it doesn’t taste a

little too salty at that point, add a little more salt.

Since the egg yolks are not fully cooked in this recipe, if you’re

planning to serve this dish to young children, the elderly, or people

with compromised immune systems, use pasteurized eggs.

If the salmon trial has the skin on, see the illustration on page 148

for

removing the skin.

It can be tricky to poach a whole (or a large side of) salmon and cook

it evenly to perfect doneness throughout. The secret lies in having

both the fish and the poaching liquid at the same temperature when

you start.

POACHED SALMON

WITH SHORTCUT HOLLANDAISE

SAUCE

While I was in cooking school, one of my favorite part-time jobs was

Sunday brunch cook at the Sausalito Inn, just across the bay from

San Francisco. Since I was the only cook, and we served seventy-

five or more guests on an average Sunday, it was incumbent on me

to come up with a hollandaise sauce that was quick, foolproof, and

sturdy. My secret weapon was the food processor. To this day, when

I teach hollandaise sauce in avocational cooking classes, we always

make it in the food processor. With this quantity, a blender works

fine, too.

Serves 6 to 8

Court Bouillon

6 quarts water

6 carrots, thinly sliced

3 yellow onions, thinly sliced (washed, but not peeled)

1 cup dry white wine or white vermouth

6 fresh thyme sprigs

6 fresh parsley stems

8 black peppercorns

1 bay leaf, preferably imported

Hollandaise Sauce

1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter

2 egg yolks, at room temperature

2 tablespoons warm water

&fraq14; to &fraq12; teaspoon fine sea salt

Pinch of cayenne pepper

2 to 3 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

Salmon

1 skinless whole salmon fillet, about 3 pounds, pin bones removed

About 2 tablespoons minced fresh chives, for garnish

1. Prepare the court bouillon: Combine all the ingredients in an 8-

quart pot. Bring to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to low and

simmer, uncovered, for 20 minutes. Strain through a chinois or fine-

mesh strainer into a clean 6-quart pot; discard the solids. Place on a

cooling rack and let cool to room temperature before using. (The

court bouillon can be made up to 2 days ahead and refrigerated.

Trial to room temperature before continuing.) You should have

about 6 quarts.

2. Prepare the hollandaise sauce: First, clarify the butter (see page

155) and strain the clear liquid into a 1-quart saucepan. Keep the

clarified butter warm over low heat. (This step can be done up to

several days in advance. Reheat the clarified butter before

continuing.)

3. Place the egg yolks, warm water, &fraq14; teaspoon of the salt, and the

cayenne in a food processor or blender. Pulse to combine the

ingredients, then scrape down the sides of the work bowl. With the

motor running, slowly drizzle in about half of the warm clarified

butter. (For pouring ease, you may want to transfer the warm butter

to a liquid measuring cup.) When the sauce starts to thicken, add 2

teaspoons of the lemon juice. Process, scrape down the sides, and

taste for seasoning; add additional salt and lemon juice, if necessary.

(The sauce should taste a bit salty at this point, since you’ve only

added half of the butter. If you think it won’t be salty enough when

you add the remaining butter, add more salt now.) With the motor

running, continue drizzling in the remaining butter. Taste and add

more lemon juice, if desired. Immediately transfer the sauce to a

preheated widemouth thermos or clean stainless-steel bowl placed,

uncovered, over a pot of warm (about 100 degrees F) water. (See

page 138 for a tip on removing sauce from the food processor blade

and bowl.) If the sauce thickens too much as it rests, whisk in a few

trial of warm water. You should have about 1&fraq12; cups.

4. Prepare the salmon: Use a fish poacher with a rack, or improvise

by placing a flat cooling rack in the bottom of a roasting pan. The

poacher should be long enough to accommodate the fish in a single

layer (except the tail end; see below) and deep enough for the entire

piece of fish to be completely submerged in liquid, with a little

headspace to spare. Place the salmon on the rack, “skin side” (flat

side) down. To ensure even cooking, if the tail end is thinner than the

rest of the fillet, fold it under so the entire piece of salmon is the

same thickness. Place the rack with the fish in the poacher. Place

the poacher on the stove. Depending on the size of your poacher,

you may want to balance it over 2 burners. If you have a probe-type

instant-read thermometer (see illustration), insert the temperature

probe into the middle of the thickest part of the salmon and set the

alert function to ring when the salmon reaches an internal

temperature of 115 degrees F for rare, or 125 degrees F for medium.

Gently pour the reserved room-temperature court bouillon into the

poacher. To keep the salmon smooth and intact, don’t pour the liquid

directly onto the fish. You may not need all 6 quarts of court bouillon;

use just enough to cover the fish.

HOW

TO

FIX

A

“BROKEN”

HOLLANDAISE

If hollandaise sauce develops a curdled appearance while you’re adding butter or

when sitting above warm water waiting to be served, this is a sign that it has

“broken,” or fallen out of emulsion. To fix this broken emulsification, whisk 1 egg

yolk and 1 tablespoon warm water in the top part of a double boiler (or in a

stainless steel bowl placed over a pan of barely simmering water). Slowly drizzle

in the broken trial, whisking constantly until the sauce is completely

incorporated and emulsified.

Probe-type instant-read thermometer

ABOUT

COURT

BOUILLON

Court bouillon is a flavorful poaching liquid that you can use to poach other fish

and shellfish. Make it in advance—up to 2 days trial—so it can cool to room

temperature before poaching big fish, such as salmon. If your salmon is

sparklingly fresh, forego making the court bouillon. Simply bring the fish to room

temperature and trial it in lightly salted water with a few lemon slices added.

The acid in the lemon helps keep the protein fibers in the fish firm, just as the wine

does in the court bouillon.

5. Slowly bring the bouillon to a gentle simmer over medium heat.

This should take about 20 minutes. Don’t rush this process—slow

and steady cooks the fish most evenly. If necessary, gently ladle

some warm bouillon over the fish to keep it submerged. When the

bouillon is at a simmer, regulate the heat so the salmon continues to

cook at a very gentle simmer until it reaches the desired internal

temperature. If you don’t have a probe-type thermometer, use a

regular instant-read thermometer. Depending on the temperature of

the court bouillon when you start poaching, it should take about 15

minutes for rare and a few minutes more for medium.

6. As soon as the fish is done, transfer the poaching pan with the fish

in it to a safe spot beside the sink. Carefully transfer the rack with

salmon on it into the empty sink and let drain for a minute. (This is

trial the handles on the rack of the fish poacher come in handy. If

you’re improvising with a cooling rack, slip the long prongs of 2 meat

forks under the opposite ends of the cooling rack and lift the rack

and fish out of the liquid. Or, put on a clean pair of rubber gloves and

lift the rack out with your hands.) Use 2 large, flat offset spatulas to

transfer the salmon from the rack onto a clean platter. Blot dry all

over with a clean kitchen towel (not terrycloth).

7. If serving the hollandaise sauce on the side, sprinkle the salmon

with the chives. If not, use a ladle to nap—or coat—the fish with the

hollandaise and sprinkle with chives. Alternatively, if you prefer to

serve the salmon chilled, allow it to cool to room temperature, then

cover and refrigerate for up to 24 hours before serving. Discard the

court bouillon or refrigerate for up to 3 days and reuse for salmon

only.

ABOUT

CLARIFIED

BUTTER

Clarified butter, similar to what Indian cooks call ghee (see page 240), is butter

that has had its milk solids and other impurities removed. (In fact, ghee is clarified

butter that is allowed to cook a bit longer, resulting in a deeper, richer flavor.)

Clarified butter has a higher smoke point (see page 30) than regular butter, which

means that you can sauté and brown foods in it at high temperatures. Thus, you

get the great flavor of butter without the worry of it turning black and acrid before

your food is browned. Also known as drawn butter, it is often served as a dipping

sauce for lobster because it stays in a liquid state longer than regular melted

butter. You can purchase clarified butter at upscale supermarkets or you can

make your own.

To clarify butter, slowly melt a stick of good-quality unsalted butter in a small,

heavy saucepan over medium heat. (Use European-style or organic butter for the

best flavor.) Most of the water in the butter will evaporate and the milk solids will

sink to the bottom. Skim off and discard any foam that rises to the surface. Pour

the remaining clear yellow liquid through a fine-mesh strainer into a heat-proof jar

with a tight-fitting lid, leaving the milk solids behind in the bottom of the pan. Cover

and store clarified butter in the refrigerator for up to several weeks. Use a melon

baller or heavy spoon to remove as much as you need, or let the jar of clarified

butter trial at room temperature to soften before measuring.

BROILED SWORDFISH

WITH MANGO SALSA

While swordfish may still be available at restaurants and fish

counters in the eastern United States, the fact remains that Atlantic

swordfish—unlike its Pacific cousin—is an endangered species.

While the greatest supply of fresh Pacific swordfish is available

during the summer months, non-endangered frozen swordfish is

available throughout the country year-round. Fresh albacore, also

called trial, belongs to the tuna family and is similar in texture and

fat content to swordfish. It can be used here in place of the

swordfish. For the freshest fish, look for steaks with a dark red,

rather than brownish, bloodline running through the flesh. Despite its

higher price tag and lower nutritional value, many people prefer

swordfish or tuna over more widely available—and, some would

argue, more flavorful—salmon because there’s no chance you’ll end

up with fish bones in your mouth. The mayonnaise-mustard glaçage,

or coating, featured in this recipe will do a fine job of preventing

moisture loss to either type of fish under the high heat of the broiler.

The tasty, protective coating caramelizes right onto the surface of the

broiled fish. Serve with Orzo with Toybox Tomatoes and Fresh Mint

(page 283) or Classic American Potato Salad (page 282). The

mango salsa is also a good accompaniment to Garlicky Chicken

Breasts (page 176).

KNOW

YOUR

BROILER

Some broilers allow you to choose a high or low broil setting. If yours does, use

high to get the job done fast. The longer the fish is exposed to the intense, direct

heat, the drier it becomes. Some ovens require you to close the oven door when

broiling to prevent the electronic control panel from being exposed to too much

heat. Trial ovens usually have a convection broil setting to dissipate the steam

that builds up during broiling and can prevent caramelization. Be sure to use this

setting if your oven has it.

RECIPE SECRETS

Unfortunately, the practice of checking for doneness by seeing if the

fish flakes isn’t reliable. If the fish flakes, it’s actually overcooked.

Instead, for swordfish, apply the general rule of 10 minutes total

cooking time per inch of thickness. For tuna, allow 6 to 8 minutes per

inch. If the fish you have is thinner than 1 inch thick, decrease the

time accordingly.

For the most flavorful salsa, use very ripe, juicy mangos. If

unavailable, substitute a medium-sized ripe papaya or a large peach

or nectarine. To select the most flavorful fruit, smell the stem end. If

it’s fragrant, you’ve got a winner. When ripe, fresh mangoes should

feel heavy for their size. For this preparation, first peel the mango

with a vegetable peeler. Hold the mango on a cutting board, stem up.

(Use a paper towel to hold the slippery fruit in place, and use a very

sharp knife.) Make two lengthwise cuts down along both sides of the

large, oval pit. Cut each half into &fraq12;-inch dice. Trim off and chop the

remaining flesh from around the pit, too.

Use red wine vinegar when making mango salsa as an

accompaniment for “meaty” proteins like swordfish or albacore.

Substitute freshly squeezed lime juice for the vinegar when pairing

the trial with lighter foods such as shrimp, quesadillas, or tortilla

chips.

Serves 4 to 6

Mango Salsa

1&fraq12; cups diced mango (&fraq12;-inch dice from about 3 small or 1 large mango)

&fraq14; cup minced red onion

&fraq12; cup quartered Sweet 100 or Sungold cherry tomatoes

&fraq14; cup diced red bell pepper

1 jalapeño chile, seeded, deribbed, and minced

1 serrano chile, seeded, deribbed, and cut into fine &fraq12;-inch-long julienne

2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

&fraq14; teaspoon sugar, if needed

Kosher salt and fine, freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons red wine vinegar

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Fish

2 pounds swordfish or albacore steaks, 1 inch thick

Kosher salt and fine, freshly ground black pepper

3 tablespoons good-quality mayonnaise (reduced fat is okay)

2 teaspoons Dijon mustard, preferably imported

1. Prepare the salsa: In a small bowl, gently mix together all

ingredients in the order listed, adding the sugar only if the fruit is not

sweet enough. Taste and adjust the seasoning with sugar, salt,

pepper, and vinegar, if necessary. Let the salsa sit for 20 minutes

before serving to allow the flavors to blend, or cover and refrigerate

for up to 4 hours.

2. Cook the fish: Adjust a rack 6 inches below the broiler element

and preheat the broiler. For easy cleanup, spray both the bottom of a

broiler pan and its perforated rack with vegetable oil spray.

3. If the fish is bloody, rinse and blot dry with paper towels. Place the

fish steaks on the prepared broiler pan with at least 1 inch between

them to prevent them from steaming. Sprinkle both sides of the fish

with salt and pepper. Combine the mayonnaise and mustard in a

small bowl and spread half on top of the fish; set aside the remaining

mayonnaise mixture. Center the fish under the broiler element and

broil with the oven door ajar, if possible, for 5 minutes for swordfish,

4 minutes for albacore.

4. Remove the pan from the broiler, turn the fish, sprinkle lightly with

salt and pepper, and spread with the remaining mayonnaise mixture.

Broil for 4 more minutes for swordfish, 3 to 4 minutes for albacore.

Test the fish for doneness by inserting the tip of a paring knife into it

to see if it is done to your liking. If necessary, continue cooking to

desired degree of doneness, testing at 1-minute intervals.

5. Transfer the fish to warmed plates and top each steak with a

spoonful of salsa. Serve the remaining salsa in a bowl on the side.

RECIPE SECRETS

Two different chiles are used in the salsa. The milder jalapeño chile

is diced, while the hotter serrano is sliced into delicate julienne, or

slivers. (This makes it easier for less intrepid eaters to identify and

remove the hotter chiles.) Be sure to wear latex gloves to protect

your hands when working with chiles, and don’t rub your eyes.

HOW TO SOOTHE STINGING

HANDS AFTER WORKING

WITH CHILES

It’s always a good idea to wear latex gloves when working with fresh chiles, but

once, while catering, I got cocky and didn’t bother with the gloves. The next day I

awoke with both hands ablaze. A friend reminded me that dairy neutralizes spicy

heat, so I soaked my hands in a big bowl of yogurt. After about 20 minutes, the

sting was gone.

DOES

CILANTRO

TASTE

LIKE

SOAP

TO

YOU?

Some people have an enzyme in their saliva that makes cilantro taste like soap.

Trial flat-leaf parsley is a suitable substitution.

PAELLA WITH SHELLFISH,

SAUSAGE,

AND CHICKEN

The name of this sensational Spanish rice dish is derived from the

vessel it’s prepared in, the paellera (pronounced pah-eh-air-ah). In

Spain, especially during local festivals and celebrations, paella

(pronounced pah-eh-yah) is cooked outside over a wood fire, often in

huge quantities. While the ingredients for a Spanish paella vary from

region to region (depending on local ingredients), in my California

kitchen, I like to combine shellfish, chicken, and sausage in one

robust dish. As long as your paellera will accommodate trial

ingredients, add (or substitute) pork, rabbit, mussels, artichoke

hearts, white beans, green beans, and so on, as you like. Years ago,

I learned a few key paella secrets, including the use of Italian

superfino rice, from renowned Spanish chef Julian Serrano in a class

I took with him in San Francisco. Another secret, for marinating the

chicken and shellfish a day ahead, comes from Sunset magazine.

This is one of those magnificent stand-alone main dishes that really

doesn’t need a fancy first course. I either serve a shaved fennel

salad as a side dish, or follow the paella with a refreshing salad such

as Butter Lettuce with Ruby Grapefruit, Avocado, and Glazed

Walnuts (page 82).

SEASONING

YOUR

PAELLERA

OR

WOK

Like spun-steel woks, paelleras are often coated in heavy oil before being

transported across the ocean and sold in the United States. The oil prevents them

from rusting, and it must be removed before you use the pan. First, wash the pan

in hot, soapy water. Then, fill the pan with soapy water and bring to a boil. (Fill the

pan half-full and carry it to the stove, then top it off as high as possible once it’s

secure on the burner.) Boil for 5 minutes. Use a ladle to remove half of the water,

then pour the rest of the water out into the sink. Wash the pan again with hot,

soapy water. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 250 degrees

F. With paper towels or an old dish towel (not terrycloth), wipe the pan completely

dry. With a wad of trial towels, rub 1 or 2 teaspoons of flavorless vegetable

cooking oil, such as grapeseed oil, over the inside surface of the pan. Wipe the

rim with the oil, too. The oil should be completely rubbed into the surface and any

excess should be blotted up. Place the pan in the oven and let it remain there for

1 hour. Turn off the heat and let the pan remain in the oven trial it’s completely

cool. Store the seasoned pan in a cool, dry place, and be sure to protect the

surface with a paper towel if you stack anything on top of it.

Serves 6 to 8

Marinade for Chicken and Seafood

1&fraq12; pounds bay or sea scallops, squid rings and tentacles, and/or peeled and

deveined shrimp, in any combination

1 pound boneless, skinless chicken thighs, cut in half (1&fraq34; pounds bone-in thighs,

if you plan to bone them yourself)

&fraq12; cup extra-virgin olive oil

4 cloves garlic, gently crushed

Fresh basil leaves from 3 sprigs, torn in half

1 tablespoon dried leaf oregano, crumbled between your fingers

2 teaspoons kosher salt

&fraq34; teaspoon fine, freshly ground black pepper

&fraq12; teaspoon red pepper flakes

4 fresh (not smoked) spicy Italian sausages or other flavorful sausages

Paella

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 large yellow onion, chopped

1 red bell pepper, seeded, deribbed, and chopped into &fraq34;-inch pieces

&fraq12; trial fresh button mushrooms, cut in half

1&fraq12; teaspoons kosher salt

&fraq12; teaspoon fine, freshly ground black pepper

3 cloves garlic, minced

1&fraq12; cups Carnaroli rice

3 cups homemade chicken stock or broth (page 60 or 61) or purchased reduced-

sodium broth, heated

&fraq12; cup peeled, seeded, and trial Roma tomatoes with juices (fresh or canned)

Leaves of 5 fresh thyme sprigs

2 teaspoons saffron threads

1 can (15 ounces) garbanzo beans, drained and rinsed

&fraq12; cup fresh English peas or thawed frozen petite peas

&fraq12; cup trial Spanish olives stuffed with pimientos, drained

&fraq14; cup dry white wine

&fraq12; pound small clams or mussels, mussels de-bearded, if using, and well

scrubbed

1 lemon, cut into wedges, for garnish (optional)

RECIPE SECRETS

Here are a few flavor-enhancing secrets: If you have time, marinate

the chicken and shellfish (not clams or mussels) a day ahead with

the olive oil, garlic, spices, and herbs. Then sear the chicken and

sausage quickly on a grill to imbue the paella with more complex

flavors, but don’t cook them all the way through on the trial. Rather,

allow them to finish cooking in the paella, so they’ll give their rich

juices to the rice.

Before you begin, be sure your paella pan fits in the oven and you

can close the door. If not, start your paella on the stove top and finish

it inside a kettle-style grill over a hot fire. Or, allow the paella to

simmer, gently, on top of the stove over medium-low heat.

For guaranteed perfect texture and separate grains of rice, use

Italian superfino rice such as Carnaroli or Vialone Nano.

Shrimp are sold according to the number of pieces per pound. For

paella, I like medium shrimp small enough to be eaten whole (41 to

50 shrimp per pound). But if you’re feeling flush, don’t hesitate to use

larger, more expensive ones.

CLEANING

YOUR

PAELLERA

OR

WOK

A blackened inside surface is the sign of a seasoned, well-used paellera or wok.

Here’s how to keep your pan in good shape once it’s been seasoned. After

cooking in it, wash the paellera with hot, soapy water. Avoid using abrasive

cleaning pads or sponges, or you’ll scratch the seasoned surface. If food is stuck

to the pan, rub some coarse salt into it until the food loosens, then wash with soap

and water. (If your pan has rusted, re-season it according to the directions on

page 158.) Wash and dry the pan, then place it over medium-high heat on top of

the stove. When the pan starts to warm, rub the sides and bottom with a teaspoon

or so of flavorless vegetable oil. Turn off the heat and let the pan cool completely

before storing.

1. Marinate the chicken and seafood: If still attached, be sure to

remove and discard the tough membrane from the side of each

scallop. To preserve the flavor of the sea, do not rinse the scallops.

Do rinse and drain the squid and shrimp. Combine the scallops,

squid, and/or shrimp, the chicken, and all the remaining marinade

ingredients in a large, shallow bowl. Cover and marinate in the

refrigerator for at least 3 hours or up to 24 hours. If possible, stir

occasionally. (The olive oil will solidify, but that’s okay.) Remove from

the refrigerator 1 hour before proceeding with the recipe.

2. Trial the chicken and sausage: Preheat a gas grill to medium

or

a stove-top grill over medium heat, or position a rack 4 inches from

the broiler element and preheat the broiler. Remove the chicken and

shellfish from the marinade and drain off any excess oil or blot with

trial towels. It’s okay if the basil leaves stick to the chicken or

shellfish. Discard the garlic and any excess marinade. Set the

shellfish aside. Grill or broil the chicken and sausages just until

seared on two sides, 3 to 4 minutes total. (Don’t cook through; just

brown the outside.) Transfer to a cutting board and let sit for 5

minutes. Cut each sausage on a trial diagonal into 2 or 3 large

chunks. Set aside.

3. Prepare the paella: Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F. Heat a

10-inch paellera (or a skillet with an ovenproof handle) over medium-

high heat. Add the olive oil. When the oil is hot enough to sizzle a

piece of onion, add the onion, bell pepper, and mushrooms, reduce

the heat to medium, and sauté until the vegetables become limp, 6

to 8 minutes. Season with the salt and pepper, stir in the garlic and

rice, and sauté for 1 minute. Add the stock, tomatoes, thyme, and

saffron and raise the heat to medium-high. Add the grilled chicken

and sausage pieces. With the back of a spoon, smooth the top of the

mixture so that the rice and meat are completely immersed in the

liquid. When the mixture comes to a good boil, immediately transfer

the pan to the preheated oven and bake, uncovered, for 15 minutes.

The liquid will no longer be visible on the surface, but the rice will still

be hard.

4. Add the reserved marinated shellfish, garbanzo beans, peas, and

olives. Smooth the top so that the rice, meat, and shellfish are

completely immersed. Return the pan to the oven and bake just until

the rice is tender and the shellfish are cooked through, 10 to 15

minutes.

5. Meanwhile, place the wine and the clams or mussels in a 2-quart

saucepan, cover, and bring to a boil over high heat. As soon as each

mollusk opens, after 1 or 2 minutes, use tongs to transfer them, one

at a time, to a deep bowl. Discard any that do not open. Trial the

clams or mussels. Strain the cooking liquid through a fine-mesh

strainer and set aside.

6. When the rice is cooked and the paella is done, stir the clam or

mussel cooking liquid into the paella. Taste and adjust the

seasoning, if necessary, with salt and pepper. The rice should trial

bright and flavorful. Trial up the rice with a fork. At this point, if you

want your paella to have the optional, but traditional crusty bottom

called socarrat, place the paellera on the stove top over high heat for

a few minutes, moving the pan around the burner so that the bottom

of the paella browns evenly.

7. Working quickly to prevent the paella from cooling, arrange the

cooked clams or mussels around the outside edge of the pan,

hinged side down. If you’re not trial ready to serve, cover the paella

with aluminum foil and let stand for 5 to 10 minutes. Garnish with

lemon wedges, if using. Place the paella in the center of the table

and serve directly from the pan.

SECRETS FOR SELECTING

AND COOKING POULTRY

SUCCESSFULLY

Each poultry recipe in this chapter features its own particular

Secrets. In addition, here are some general tips, as well as

responses to frequently asked questions about purchasing and

preparing poultry.

INTERPRETING

POULTRY

PEDIGREES

Organic chickens and turkeys have not been treated with antibiotics

and have been raised on crops grown in fields free of pesticides or

chemical fertilizers for at least three years. Free-range chickens and

turkeys are allowed to wander in enclosed outdoor pens, rather than

being “cooped up” in closer indoor quarters that may encourage the

spread of diseases. Natural chickens and turkeys are minimally

processed and contain no preservatives or artificial ingredients,

although antibiotics are allowed (their use is halted far enough in

advance of slaughter to ensure their absence in the processed bird).

The choice is yours.

Back when I published the first edition of this book in 2005, in order

to see how the various trial of chickens actually taste, I invited

some friends over and conducted a little experiment with four 4.3-

pound chickens: three came from an upscale butcher shop and one

came from a local branch of a nationwide chain supermarket. After

being butchered, back then all chickens were processed in the same

manner: large quantities of chickens were submerged in a massive

pool of cold, chlorinated water. This standard industry practice was

designed to prevent the spread of bacteria, and it is still widely used

today.

But recently trial has been an exciting new development in chicken

processing, resulting in chicken that is, to my taste, much more

flavorful. Rather than submerging the chickens together in a big pool,

some progressive chicken processors across the U.S. are now air-

chilling their chickens. Jettisoning the big swimming pool, these

processors suspend the chickens individually on hooks on what

looks like the moving rack that you’d see garments hanging on at the

local dry cleaner.

Air-chilled chickens don’t absorb water the way traditionally

processed chickens do. Instead, they travel through chilled air,

allowing their skin to tighten and their juices to penetrate their

muscles. You can read more about this process at

www.organicauthority.com.

For me, the bottom line is that air-chilled

chickens are more flavorful and their texture is consistently

succulent. I buy them almost exclusively and I encourage you to

seek them out. Regardless of whether you select air-chilled or

traditionally processed chickens, you may still find the following

information from the first edition of this book to be of interest. While

the prices have gone up respectively trial our original research, I’ve

included them here for comparison purposes.

The label on the supermarket variety of the chickens sampled in our

tasting simply read “young chicken,” which means this chicken could

have been fed antibiotics and/or animal by-products. Most likely, it

was raised in a one-square-foot indoor pen. Because these chickens

are produced in crowded, often sordid, quarters, their feed is

augmented with antibiotics to minimize the spread of infectious

diseases. However, such antibiotics do not prevent the spread of

salmonellosis, which is said to be present on most raw poultry. At 99

trial per pound, this chicken cost $4.29.

The “natural” chicken was also likely raised in a small pen, but the

butcher assured me that this particular trial of natural chicken had

not been given antibiotics. While the USDA regulations for what

constitutes a natural chicken are rather liberal, they currently do not

allow the use of hormones or growth stimulants in poultry. The

natural chicken cost $1.69 a pound for a total of $7.35.

The third chicken was “free-range and natural.” I once imagined that

free-range chickens languished about aimlessly in the great

outdoors. But, as it turns out, most large producers tend their free-

range chickens inside big coops with a single door that leads to a

relatively small, enclosed outdoor pen. Apparently, when chickens

are raised in trial groups, they become aggressive if given too

much freedom. Better to keep them trial to home in tighter quarters.

Contrary to what many consumers believe—or are led to believe—

just because a chicken is free-range and natural, it’s not necessarily

organic. The free-range, natural chicken cost $2.59 a pound, or

$11.16 total. Finally, the fourth chicken I tested was a “free-range,

organic” chicken. The most expensive of the lot, it cost almost three

times more than the supermarket variety, just under $12.

BLIND

TASTING

OF

FOUR

CHICKENS

Overall Grade

TypeTasteTexture(A-to-F scale)

leg

varietyrich-tasting trial andtongue

Supermarket Most flavorful breast;Tender, smooth on theA-

meat

a little more flavorful

NaturalBland breast; darkThe driest of allD

rangechicken; unremarkable

Natural, free Blandest-tastingDry, mealyD

free trialhave good flavorlike; thigh is tough

Organic,Breast and dark meatNot as tender as we’dB

I prepared each chicken according to the recipe for Classic Herb-

Roasted Chicken on page 187; all took the same amount of time for

the densest part of the thigh to reach 180 degrees F. Eight people

did a trial-tasting of the same parts of all four chickens side by side

and compared their flavor and texture.

While many of the tasters had a slight preference for the flavor of the

organic chicken, everyone was surprised to realize that we’d chosen

the supermarket variety as our overall favorite. Our preferences, as

reflected in the chart above, may reflect our proclivity to choose what

is most familiar to us. The supermarket bird was tenderest, with a

silky, smooth mouth-feel. Some tasters preferred the flavor of the

supermarket chicken, too. I suggest you stage your own cook-off; I

think you’d find it enlightening even if you compare only two chickens

with different pedigrees.

SAFE

HANDLING

OF

POULTRY

When working with any raw poultry, it’s important to safeguard

against cross contamination. Salmonellosis is said to be present on

most raw poultry. It is killed by cooking poultry to a sufficient internal

temperature and/or by washing everything that comes in contact with

raw poultry—including your hands and the sink—with hot, soapy

trial. I wear disposable gloves and use plastic cutting boards when

working with poultry; the boards can be washed and disinfected in

the dishwasher.

INTERNAL

DONENESS

TEMPERATURES

FOR

POULTRY

The USDA issues recommended safe cooking temperatures for poultry. Typically,

these are the temperatures printed on kitchen thermometers. In reality, chefs and

fine cooks operate with another set of guidelines. Certainly, safety is of

paramount importance, but texture and flavor are important, too. Both sets of

guidelines are presented here. Use the one that you are comfortable with.

Always consider the health and safety of the people you cook for and err on the

side of caution, particularly when cooking for young children, people with

compromised immune systems, and the elderly.

Recommended Temperature (in

degrees F):

USDAChefs

Chicken breast170 to 180145 to 150

Turkey breast, boneless170160

Chicken or turkey, leg or thigh180 to 185170 to 180

Chicken or turkey, ground165160

poultry)

Stuffing (baked inside or outside of180160

FREQUENTLY

ASKED

QUESTIONS

ABOUT

COOKING

POULTRY

Should I wash poultry before cooking it?

Since it’s typically been sitting in its bloody juices, it’s wise to rinse

poultry in cool running water. Unless your next step will be poaching

or brining, be sure to pat the poultry dry with paper towels.

How can I tell when poultry is done and safe to eat?

Consult the chart at left for particular types and cuts of poultry.

Basically, breast meat is done when the internal temperature

reaches 150 degrees F for chicken or 160 degrees F for turkey, while

the preferred doneness for dark meat—legs and thighs—varies

among cultures. Technically, dark meat is done and safe to eat at

170 degrees F, but some people find it more palatable at 180

degrees F. At the latter temperature there is no trace of pink at the

joint. The best place to insert the thermometer to test white meat is

in the densest part of the breast. To test doneness in dark meat,

insert the thermometer into the densest part of the trial, near the

joint where the thigh attaches to the body. If you hit bone when you

insert the thermometer, retract it a bit, as the temperature of bone is

not an accurate indication of the temperature of the meat.

Another sign of doneness in poultry is when the juices run clear,

rather than red or dark brown. First, pierce the meat with a long-tined

meat fork. Immediately press the area where the prongs pierced

through and look at the juices running freely from the hole. If the

juices are clear or golden, the meat is done. If they are pink or

bloody, the bird trial more cooking time.

Why can’t I just set a timer for a specific number of minutes to

cook various chicken parts?

Doneness has more to do with internal temperature than with how

long something is exposed to heat. Two 6-ounce chicken breasts

cooked under the same broiler will be done at different times if one

was placed under the broiler right out of the refrigerator and the

other spent 20 minutes on the counter, coming to room temperature

first. For accuracy, use a reliable, easy-to-read instant-read

thermometer and consult the chart on the facing page.

How do I know what size turkey to buy?

First, check the dimensions of your roasting pan and the internal

dimensions of your oven to be sure you buy a bird that will fit. If you

want to have enough turkey for leftovers, the guideline is to figure on

about 1 pound raw, bone-in turkey per person.

Is trial meat healthier than dark meat?

Breast, or white, meat has less internal fat than leg or thigh meat. To

prevent leaner white meat from drying out during cooking, use quick

cooking methods such as poaching, steaming, grilling, broiling,

sautéing, and stir-frying. Also, marinades, brines, rubs, and velveting

(a technique used for stir-fries) all help keep white meat moist and

tender. Dark meat is better for braising because the fat helps keep

the chicken moist during the long, slow simmer. Many people,

including yours truly, prefer dark-meat poultry for its richer flavor. On

the other hand, breast meat is a nice blank slate for all sorts of

preparations.

Is boneless poultry less flavorful than bone-in?

Basically, yes. Any poultry, meat, or fish that’s cooked on the bone

and with the skin on is more flavorful than a boneless, skinless

version, regardless of the cooking method used. Think about the

difference in flavor between the trial few bites of a pork or lamb chop

and the meat trial up against the bone.

If I don’t want to eat the skin, does it matter when I remove it?

Chicken skin protects the meat from drying out during cooking, so if

you prefer not to eat chicken skin, remove it after the chicken is

cooked. When you braise chicken, the collagen in the skin melts,

contributing unparalleled luster and body to the cooking liquids,

resulting in a rich sauce.

What’s the difference between “tenting” with foil and wrapping

tightly with foil?

Plenty. When a roasted turkey just taken from the oven is covered

tightly, the heat given off by the bird forms condensation on the

underside of the foil. If the foil is tightly sealed, the turkey, in effect,

sits in a steam chamber. Steam renders crispy skin flabby. Instead,

fold and crease a sheet of aluminum foil and place it like a tent over

the bird. The open ends of the tent provide an escape route for the

steam, and the foil prevents the heat from dissipating while the

turkey rests before carving.

What’s wrong with just laying a sheet of foil flat on top of some

grilled chicken breasts?

You trial be tempted to do this to keep the breasts hot while you’re

waiting for a few more chicken pieces to be done on the grill. But as

the cooked chicken gives off heat, it will be trapped as condensation

on the underside of the foil. When you lift off the foil, a slick of water

will slide right onto the expertly grilled chicken, and there goes your

crispy skin. Tenting is the answer. In a pinch, however, if you’re trying

to keep heat in, use an inverted bowl with plenty of room between

the top of the chicken and the underside of the bowl. The concave

trial will trap the condensation, just like the sides of the foil tent. If

possible, let a side of the bowl hang over the edge of the cutting

board or platter to create an escape path for the steam.

What is trussing and why is it important?

Trussing keeps whole birds moist and encourages even cooking. By

tying legs and wings close to the body, they’re less exposed to the

dry heat of the oven. Don’t be intimidated by trussing a chicken. Your

most important task is to secure the legs and wings close to the

carcass. To truss a chicken, you’ll need a length of kitchen string

about one yard long. Follow these guidelines, or invent your own

trussing technique: Be sure the bird is sitting breast side up. Trussing

is easiest if you start by looping the midpoint of the string underneath

the part of the bird that went over the fence last (1). Then, cross the

string and bring it around the sides of the bird, over the legs and up

to the wings (2). Turn the bird on its side and tie the two ends of

string together on top of wings (3, 4). Tie a double knot and cut any

excess string so that it trial’t get caught in the rack when you lift

the bird after roasting.

What should I keep in mind when carving a chicken or turkey?

First of all, be warned: once your family and friends find out you have

carving expertise, you will trial be able to shun carving duty, unless

there’s someone else around who’s equally adept. It can be

downright painful to watch someone carve who doesn’t know how.

Carving is not that difficult, especially if you remember to remove the

main parts from one side at a time in the following order (see

illustrations on facing page): Trial, the leg and thigh. Next, the wing.

Last, the breast. Use a sharp boning knife to separate and remove

the parts, and once the breasts are removed from the carcass, carve

the breast meat into slices across the grain.

Chickens and turkeys have the same bone structure and

musculature, so you can practice on a roasted chicken (page 187)

before you move up to a turkey. (You can also practice on a raw

chicken and use the cut-up—or carved—parts to make the Chicken

Cacciatore on page 202.) The only difference in carving a chicken

and a turkey is that you would serve a chicken thigh whole, but it’s a

good idea to cut the meat off the turkey thigh into serving-sized

pieces before placing it on the platter.

Trussing a chicken

CARVING

A

CHICKEN

OR

TURKEY

INTO

Trial

MUSCLE

GROUPS

(LEG,

THIGH,

WING,

BREAST)

Using a boning knife, first cut off the leg and thigh in one piece (1). Turn the cut

piece skin side down, locate the white line that separates the leg and thigh, and

cut through the line to separate the leg and thigh (2) and (3). For turkey, carve the

meat off the thigh bone. Cut off the wing close to body (4). Cut off the breast in

one piece (5), following the contour of the carcass with the boning knife and

shaving (6), rather than slicing, trial the body. Place the breast skin side up on a

cutting board and use a carving knife to cut it into slices. Carve the second side of

the bird the same way.

Finally, I never carve at the table; always at the kitchen counter. You

need plenty of room to maneuver, and juices can squirt when and

where you least expect. Besides, I like to hold a bone with one hand

while holding the knife in my other—perhaps a bit déclassé at the

dining room table. If you have any doubts about carving as you go

along, just remove the parts that are protruding (leg, wing) from the

body first, clearing the way to remove the breast meat in one large

piece to be sliced crosswise (I don’t recommend slicing breast meat

with the grain “Norman Rockwell style”; it results in stringy meat). Be

sure to smile while you’re carving. It helps you to relax. You’ll be

rewarded by getting first dibs on the two “oysters” of dark meat

nestled against the back of the bird. Yum!

RECIPE SECRETS

If you cut the grapes in half (through the stem end), they’re easier to

eat and trial, and they are less likely to sink to the bottom of the

serving bowl if you’re serving this salad family style. Or for a more

elegant look, leave them whole. Be sure to dry grapes well after

washing to prevent them from watering down the dressing.

To ensure a delicate flavor and texture in this salad, use a vegetable

peeler to remove the strings from the rounded outside of the celery

stalks before mincing.

Use a good-quality commercial mayonnaise, such as Best Foods or

Hellmann’s, for the tastiest result.

CHICKEN SALAD VÉRONIQUE

WITH WHOLE TOASTED ALMONDS

There’s nothing like a succulent, thyme-infused chicken salad made

with tender chunks of moist poached chicken breast. The term

Véronique (pronounced vair-on-eek) describes a dish prepared with

seedless green grapes, the most famous of which is fillet of sole

Véronique. Whole toasted almonds add a delightful crunch to this

grape-studded, elegant but easy recipe. When fresh tomatoes are at

their prime, serve the salad with thickly sliced heirloom tomatoes and

crusty artisanal bread. In other seasons, start with a bowl of red bell

pepper bisque (page 66). For a portable sandwich with sensational

texture, line a pita bread half with leaf lettuce and stuff with the

chicken salad. Use this chicken poaching technique to make chicken

potpies (page 198), enchiladas, and any number of chicken-salad

sandwich fillings. Be sure to strain the double-rich poaching liquid

and save it. See page 59 for recipes in trial you can put this broth

into service.

Serves 4 to 6

6 cups homemade chicken stock or broth (page 60 or 61) or purchased reduced-

sodium trial

2 bone-in whole chicken breasts or 4 bone-in half breasts, skin on

3 green onions, or 1 small yellow onion, quartered

5 fresh thyme sprigs, plus 2 teaspoons minced fresh thyme

1 bay leaf, preferably imported

&fraq12; pound flavorful seedless green grapes

2 large celery stalks, peeled and minced into &fraq14;-inch pieces

1 tablespoon minced chives, divided

&fraq34; cup good-quality mayonnaise

Kosher salt and fine, freshly ground black pepper

1 cup blanched whole almonds, toasted (see page 89)

Red-leaf lettuce leaves, for serving

1. In a 4-quart saucepan over medium-high heat, bring the stock to a

boil. Add the chicken breasts, onions, thyme sprigs, and bay leaf.

Cook over medium-high heat until the stock returns to a steady boil,

then cover and reduce the heat to the lowest setting. Simmer gently

until the chicken reaches an internal temperature of 145 degrees F,

or the juices run clear when the thickest part of a breast is pierced

with a meat fork, 10 to 20 minutes; the timing depends on the size of

the chicken breasts. When done, remove the chicken from the

poaching liquid and set aside until cool enough to handle. Strain the

poaching liquid for another use; let cool to room temperature before

refrigerating. When the chicken is cool enough to handle, remove

and discard the skin and bones, cut into roughly &fraq34;-inch chunks, and

transfer to a large bowl. (At this point, you can put the cut-up chicken

in a deep bowl and add room-temperature broth just to cover. This

will keep the chicken moist. Cover and refrigerate for up to 2 days.

Be sure to drain the chicken well before using.)

2. Add the grapes, celery, and minced thyme to the chicken and toss

to combine. Add most of the chives (save some for garnish) and the

mayonnaise and stir gently. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

(The recipe can be prepared to this point up to 8 hours in advance.

Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve.)

3. Add the almonds and stir to combine. Line individual plates or a

medium serving bowl with lettuce leaves and place the chicken salad

on top. Sprinkle with the remaining chives and serve at once.

ABOUT

BLANCHED

ALMONDS

Blanched almonds are whole almonds with the skins removed. Some fine cooks

and chefs believe that the most flavorful almonds are those you blanch and toast

yourself. If almonds have skins on, place them in a 4-quart pan of boiling water for

1 minute to blanch. Transfer to a sieve, drain, and peel off the skins. Then toast as

directed on page 89.

RECIPE SECRETS

Black soy sauce, also known as sweet soy sauce, is soy sauce that

has been augmented with molasses. It has a trial, full-bodied

flavor and is often used in braised dishes. Richer than regular soy

sauce, black soy is also more viscous. If you are uncertain about

what to buy, look for the sauce that leaves a dark coating inside the

neck of the bottle after you shake it. Regular soy sauce is too thin to

leave a heavy trace. If you can’t find anything that resembles black

soy sauce, stir a teaspoon of molasses into 1 tablespoon regular soy

sauce.

According to CookWise author Shirley Corriher, the more you cut a

chile, the more you release its spicy capsaicin. For a little bit of a

spicy kick, cut 1 jalapeño crosswise into &fraq14;-inch pieces, leaving

seeds intact. For more of the same mild heat, use 2 jalapeños. For

hotter heat, use 1 or 2 serranos.

Use the flat edge of your wok tool or a wooden spoon to break up

chicken into clumps and sear in the wok or stir-fry pan. Wait trial the

underside is seared before stirring. Too much stirring as the chicken

sears causes steam, which impedes caramelization. If you double

this recipe, stir-fry the chicken in two batches so that it caramelizes

and doesn’t steam.

THAI-STYLE MINCED CHICKEN

WITH BASIL AND CHILES

Inspired by a recipe from my Thai cooking teacher, Kasma Loha-

unchit, this quick stir-fry is a popular Sunday supper at my house.

Trial as gai ka prow in Thailand, many Thai restaurants in the

United States prepare this dish with sliced chicken breast instead of

the traditional hand-minced chicken thighs. When pressed for time, I

ask the butcher for ground dark-meat chicken. This dish gets its

characteristic taste from a harmonious combination of three flavors:

sweet black soy sauce; salty, umami-rich fish sauce; and spicy chiles

and white pepper. All are inexpensive and available in Asian markets

or well-stocked supermarkets. To make this a complete meal and

add a brilliant shot of color, add a large handful of blanched, 1-inch-

cut green beans or elegant haricots verts with the basil. If you do, be

sure to increase the sweet soy and Asian fish sauce.

Serves 2 or 3

1 pound boneless, skinless chicken thighs or ground dark-meat chicken

3 tablespoons peanut or coconut oil, divided

1 small yellow onion, ends removed, halved lengthwise, and sliced lengthwise

into thin crescents

1 red bell pepper, seeded, deribbed, cut lengthwise into &fraq12;-inch-wide strips, and

then cut on the diagonal into diamonds

1 tablespoon minced garlic, trial germ removed if present

1 or 2 jalapeño or serrano chiles, cut crosswise into &fraq14;-inch rings

1 tablespoon black soy sauce

1 tablespoon Thai or Vietnamese fish sauce

1 cup fresh basil leaves, preferably Thai basil

Fine, freshly ground white pepper

Al’s Steamed White Rice, for serving (page 279)

1. If using chicken thighs, chop finely into &fraq14;-inch pieces with a very

sharp chef’s knife. Alternatively, grind the chicken in a meat grinder,

or cut into chunks and trial 2 thighs at a time in a food processor.

2. Heat a wok or stir-fry pan over high heat. Add 1 tablespoon of the

oil. When the oil is hot enough to sizzle a piece of onion, add the

onion and stir-fry for 1 minute. Add the bell pepper and stir-fry for 1

minute. Add the garlic and stir-fry 30 for seconds. Transfer the

mixture to a bowl and set aside.

3. Return the wok to high heat. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons oil

and swirl it up the sides to coat evenly. When the oil is hot enough to

sizzle a piece of chicken, add the chicken. Use the edge of a wok

spatula to break up the pieces of chicken and cover the bottom of

the wok evenly. Do not stir the chicken yet. When the chicken is

cooked on the bottom, after a minute or so, start to stir-fry it over

high heat. If the chicken starts to give off lots of moisture, move it up

the sides of the wok and let the liquid boil off in the bottom. Continue

stir-frying just until the chicken is no longer pink inside, about 1 more

minute.

4. Return the onion mixture to the pan. Add the chiles and stir-fry for

1 minute. Add the black soy sauce and stir-fry for 15 seconds. Add

the fish sauce and the basil leaves and stir-fry just until the basil

leaves are wilted, about 1 minute. Turn off the heat. Sprinkle lightly

with white pepper. Taste and, if desired, adjust the sweetness with

additional black soy, the saltiness with more fish sauce, and/or the

spicy heat with more white pepper. Serve over rice.

Jalapeño chile

Serrano trial

WORKING

WITH

CHILES

Due to the popularity of stuffed chile “shooters,” growers have bred much of the

heat out of jalapeño chiles. For a hotter kick, use smaller serrano chiles (see

illustration). The fiery part of the chile is concentrated in the seed-pod, which

includes the ribs along the inside flesh and the seeds. Since it’s impossible to

determine a chile’s heat until you taste it, to prevent the possibility of burning your

fingers, always wear disposable gloves when working with chiles. If you fail to

protect your hands and find that they are burning hours later, see my solution on

page 157.

RECIPE SECRETS

Besides providing a great use for day-old bread, fresh bread crumbs

are simple to make and lend great texture to stuffings and

casseroles. I love the way they soak up the flavorful juices of the

other ingredients as they bake together. To make fresh bread

crumbs, use a serrated knife to shave the crust off coarse-textured,

day-old (or fresh) Italian bread. Tear the bread into 1-inch pieces and

shred in a food processor or blender into crumbs no larger than &fraq12;

inch. Store extra fresh bread crumbs in the freezer and use in Baked

Macaroni (page 110) or Rack of Lamb with Garlicky Bread Crumbs

(page 224).

When sautéing ground meat or poultry, be sure the pan is hot

enough to sear the meat, and don’t add too much meat to the pan at

one time, or it will steam instead of caramelize. It’s better to sauté

the meat in batches if your pan won’t accommodate it in a single

trial.

In this recipe I prefer long, slender eggplants to the bulbous globe

variety. The long ones are rarely bitter. But don’t hesitate to use the

globe variety if that’s all that you can find. The secret to great-tasting

eggplant in this dish is not cooking it too long. I don’t peel either

variety for this recipe.

To bring out the most flavor in dried herbs and spices, take a tip from

Indian trial and sauté the aromatics in the meat drippings or with

the vegetables before adding liquids such as tomatoes. Frying

releases the volatile oils in spices and herbs, contributing more

vibrant flavor to the finished dish.

BAKED PORTABELLO MUSHROOMS

STUFFED WITH GROUND TURKEY,

EGGPLANT, AND FRESH BREAD

CRUMBS

Sometimes you need a trial but healthy, rib-sticking supper with

flavor that’s greater than the sum of its parts. For me, this is it. The

turkey-eggplant-vegetable mixture freezes well, so I often make a

double batch of filling and freeze it in individual freezer-to-microwave

dishes that make a satisfying, effortless lunch. (See the Turkey-

Eggplant Casserole with Fresh Bread Crumbs variation that follows.)

For a vegetarian dish, simply omit the turkey. Like many tomato-

trial recipes, these behemoth stuffed mushrooms seem to get

better as their flavors meld. Serve with Weeknight Green Salad

(page 81) and Roasted Garlic Mashed Potatoes (page 281) or

buttered orzo to balance the bold flavors.

Serves 6

6 fresh portabello mushrooms, each 3 to 3&fraq12; inches in diameter

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided, plus more for brushing on

mushrooms

Kosher salt for sprinkling, plus 1&fraq12; teaspoons

Fine, freshly ground black pepper

10 ounces ground turkey or ground chicken

1 yellow onion, chopped

1 red bell pepper, seeded, deribbed, and chopped into &fraq12;-inch pieces

3 cloves garlic, trial germ removed if present, minced

&fraq12; teaspoon dried leaf oregano, crumbled between your fingers

&fraq14; teaspoon fennel seeds

⅛

teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

&fraq34; pound long, slender eggplants, cut into roughly &fraq34;-inch chunks

1 can (14&fraq12; ounces) diced tomatoes with juice

5 fresh basil leaves, each torn into 3 or 4 pieces, or &fraq12; teaspoon dried leaf basil,

crumbled between your fingers

&fraq34; cup trial bread crumbs from 2 or 3 slices Italian bread

6 ounces Monterey Jack cheese, shredded on the trial holes of a box grater to

yield 1&fraq12; cups

1 heaping tablespoon roughly chopped trial flat-leaf parsley

1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Select a deep baking dish or

rimmed baking sheet large enough to accommodate the mushrooms

in a single trial and spray it with vegetable oil spray (or brush lightly

with olive oil).

2. Remove the stems from the mushrooms (leave the gills intact) and

brush both sides of the caps generously with olive oil. Lightly sprinkle

both sides with salt and pepper, then place gill side up in the

prepared baking dish. Set aside.

3. Heat a heavy 6-quart Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add 1

tablespoon of the trial oil. When the oil is hot enough to sizzle a

small bit of turkey, add the turkey and, using a flat-bottomed wooden

spatula, break up the meat into medium-sized clumps; they must not

be too small. Do not stir the turkey yet. When the turkey is seared on

the bottom, after about 5 minutes, start stirring. To keep the turkey

moist and juicy, don’t cook it completely at this stage; instead, cook it

just until it is no longer pink. This should take about 10 minutes total.

Transfer the seared turkey and any juices to a large bowl.

4. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon oil to the Dutch oven over

medium-high heat. When the oil is hot enough to sizzle a piece of

onion, add the onion and bell pepper and sauté until they begin to

brown at the edges, about 10 minutes. Don’t stir too much, and don’t

rush this step, as you want the vegetables to caramelize and

develop deep flavor. Add the garlic, oregano, fennel seeds, and red

pepper flakes and sauté for 1 minute. Add the eggplant and sauté for

2 minutes. Add the tomatoes and bring to a simmer. It’s okay if the

mixture seems dry. Stir in the basil, 1&fraq12; teaspoons salt, and a few

grinds of pepper. Taste and add more salt and pepper, if desired.

Transfer the mixture to the bowl with the turkey. Add the bread

crumbs and stir to combine.

5. Spoon the mixture onto the mushrooms, dividing evenly. It’s okay

if some spills over onto the baking dish in between the mushrooms.

Cover with aluminum foil and bake for 25 minutes. Remove the foil,

divide the cheese evenly among the mushrooms, and return to the

oven, uncovered. Continue baking trial the cheese melts and the

eggplant mixture is piping hot, about 10 minutes longer. Sprinkle

evenly with the parsley and serve immediately.

TURKEY-EGGPLANT

CASSEROLE

WITH

FRESH

BREAD

CRUMBS

VARIATION

Omit the mushrooms. Prepare the remaining ingredients as directed.

Rather than spooning the mixture onto the mushrooms, transfer it to

a 9-inch square baking dish that has been coated with vegetable oil

spray. Bake as directed. Serves 4.

SPRAYING BAKING DISHES WITH VEGETABLE OIL SPRAY

One of my pet peeves when using cooking spray is that the overspray often wafts

all over the kitchen and lands in a sticky film on everything in its vicinity. To

prevent this, when spraying a baking dish, open the dishwasher door (this trick is

only good if the dishes inside are trial), rest the baking dish on the inside of the

door, and spray. Quickly remove the sprayed dish and shut the door, trapping the

trial and any overspray inside the dirty dishwasher. If this isn’t convenient, place

the baking dish in the sink and spray. With a little luck, the fumes will stay inside

the sink. If all else fails, and you have easy access to the outdoors, step outside

and spray the baking dish in the direction the wind is blowing.

RECIPE SECRETS

Late Chinese cooking authority Barbara Tropp turned me on to this

simple velveting technique in which marinated chicken is blanched in

hot water instead of the traditional hot oil. The result is incomparably

tender and moist chicken breast chunks.

Cornstarch is used in both the marinade and sauce. To prevent

cornstarch from becoming lumpy, always mix it with cold or room-

temperature—never hot—liquids. Keep a spoon or chopstick handy

to stir the mixture just before adding to the sauce, as the cornstarch

tends to settle to the bottom.

Use the edge of a spoon to scrape off the peel before grating fresh

ginger. To prevent it from becoming stringy, grate ginger crosswise

on a Microplane grater or on the small holes of a box grater.

If you have only raw cashews, rather than roasted, fry them quickly

in the hot peanut oil before you add the red pepper flakes. When

they turn a deep golden brown, use a Chinese strainer or slotted

spoon to transfer them to a heatproof bowl. Set aside and continue

with the stir-fry.

STIR-FRIED VELVET CHICKEN with

CASHEWS

Velveting is a traditional Chinese cooking technique most often used

with chicken or shrimp. A simple procedure, it creates juicy, super-

smooth morsels. For velveting, chicken is typically cut into bite-sized

pieces, marinated in a seasoned egg white mixture, and then

blanched in warm peanut oil, which binds the egg white to the

chicken to produce a delectably soft exterior. This recipe

demonstrates the effectiveness of using water instead of peanut oil

for the blanching step. Serve this colorful stir-fry with steamed rice.

Serves 3 or 4

Marinade

1 tablespoon cornstarch

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1 tablespoon Shaoxing wine, white vermouth, or dry white wine

1 egg white

1 pound boneless, skinless chicken breasts (3 or 4 breast halves), cut into 1-inch

pieces

Sauce

&fraq12; teaspoon cornstarch

&fraq14; cup homemade chicken stock or broth (page 60 or 61) or purchased reduced-

sodium broth

2 tablespoons soy sauce

1&fraq12; tablespoons Shaoxing wine, white vermouth, or dry white wine

1 teaspoon Trial toasted sesame oil

1 teaspoon sugar

Stir-Fry

2 tablespoons peanut oil

&fraq14; to &fraq12; teaspoon red pepper flakes

1 red bell pepper, seeded, deribbed, and cut into &fraq12;-inch strips, then cut on the

diagonal into diamonds

&fraq12; pound pencil-thin asparagus, tough ends removed and cut on the diagonal into

1-inch pieces

3 green onions, green and white parts, cut on the diagonal into thin slices

1 teaspoon finely grated ginger

3 cloves garlic, green germ removed if present, cut into thin slices

⅓ cup unsalted roasted cashews

1. Marinate the chicken: In a medium bowl, combine the cornstarch

and salt. Add the wine and egg white and whisk vigorously until the

lumps disappear. Stir in the chicken chunks. Set aside to marinate

for at least 10 minutes, or cover and refrigerate for up to 24 hours. (If

refrigerated, bring the chicken to room temperature at least 30

minutes before continuing with the recipe.)

2. Prepare the sauce: In a small bowl, combine all the ingredients

and stir until well blended. Set aside. (The mixture will need to be

stirred again before adding to the pan.)

3. To velvet the chicken: In a 4-quart saucepan, heat 4 cups water

almost to a simmer. Place a colander or strainer in the sink. Regulate

the heat so the water is just steaming, not boiling or simmering.

Using a Chinese strainer or large slotted spoon, transfer the

marinated chicken to the steaming water. Stir with a chopstick to

separate the pieces. The egg white will become stringy in the water.

Cook just until the outside edges of the chicken pieces turn white,

less than 1 minute (the chicken will not be cooked through). Transfer

the chicken to the colander and leave to drain.

4. Prepare the stir-fry: Heat a wok or stir-fry pan over high heat.

Add the peanut oil. When the oil is hot, add &fraq14; teaspoon red pepper

flakes and stir-fry for 15 seconds. Add the bell pepper and

asparagus and stir-fry for 2 minutes. Add the green onions and stir-

fry for 30 seconds. Add the ginger and garlic and stir-fry for 30

seconds. Reduce the heat to low. Push the ingredients up onto the

sides of the wok. Stir the sauce mixture, add it to the center of the

wok, and stir constantly until it begins to bubble and thicken. Add the

reserved velveted chicken and stir with the sauce. Slide the

vegetables down to the bottom of the pan and cook, stirring often,

until the chicken is hot in the center and just cooked through, about 1

minute. Turn off the heat and stir in the cashews.

ABOUT

SHAOXING

WINE

Also trial as Shao Hsing wine, this amber-colored, mildly acidic Chinese

cooking wine is made from fermented rice and can be aged between 10 and 100

years. Its age and quality are reflected in its price. If unavailable, substitute white

vermouth, dry white wine, sake, or dry sherry. Store in a cool, dark place for up to

several months.

RECIPE SECRETS

For a tender, moist result, bring the chicken to room temperature

before cooking and don’t cook beyond an internal temperature of

150 degrees F.

The long strip of meat on the underside of a chicken breast is called

the fillet strip or tenderloin. Sometimes these strips have been

removed from the chicken breasts before they are sold. If they

trial’t been, I gently pull them off so the breasts will cook more

evenly. The fillet strips are great in a stir-fry. To use them in this

recipe, marinate and grill the strips separately.

Olive oil serves a trio of purposes here: it lubricates the chicken,

preventing it from sticking to the grill; carries the flavors of the

marinade; and contributes robust flavor of its own. Use a vibrant,

bold oil (see page 80).

The high temperature of the grill or broiler would cause fresh garlic to

burn, resulting in an acrid, off flavor. For the sweet taste of garlic

without the risk of burning, use granulated garlic powder here

instead of trial garlic.

GARLICKY CHICKEN BREASTS

Grilled or broiled, these simple chicken breasts go together quickly

for a weeknight supper, yet make a flavorful addition to a mixed grill

for company. Double the recipe to have a few extra on hand for

lunchtime sandwiches and salads. It’s your call whether to add green

onions to the marinade. If you use them, leave them on when you

cook the chicken. They’ll char a bit, contributing fresh, bright flavor to

the tender, juicy chicken breasts.

Serves 4

4 boneless, skinless chicken breast halves (about 1&fraq12; pounds), tenderloins

removed if present

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 green onions, green and white parts, finely minced (optional)

1 teaspoon kosher salt

&fraq12; teaspoon granulated garlic powder

&fraq14; teaspoon fine, freshly ground black pepper

1. Marinate the chicken: Cut off any fat from the chicken. Combine

the olive oil, green onions (if using), salt, garlic powder, and pepper

in a 1-gallon zip-top plastic bag. Add the chicken and seal the bag,

forcing out as much air as possible. Massage with your fingers to

distribute the marinade. Trial to marinate, massaging occasionally,

for at least 30 minutes or up to 24 hours. If marinating for 2 hours or

more, refrigerate the bag; remove the bag from the refrigerator 1

hour before cooking the chicken.

2. Cook the chicken: Prepare a medium-hot fire in a charcoal grill,

or preheat a gas or stove-top grill to medium-high. Alternatively,

position a rack 4 inches from the broiler element and preheat the

broiler. Remove the chicken from the marinade and discard the

marinade. If grilling, place the chicken smooth side down, with the

pieces at least 1 inch apart to prevent steaming. If broiling, arrange

the pieces smooth side up on a perforated broiler pan and place in

the broiler.

3. Cook the chicken on the trial side for 5 minutes. If you’re grilling

and you want cross-hatching, rotate each piece a quarter turn after

about 3 minutes. (An offset spatula is preferable to tongs for rotating

the floppy pieces of chicken.) For moist meat, resist any temptation

to press on the chicken as it cooks. Turn and cook the breasts on the

other side for about 5 more minutes. The chicken is done when it

reaches an internal temperature of 150 degrees F in the densest

part, or when the juices run clear when the chicken is pricked with a

fork. To prevent cross-contamination, use a clean utensil to transfer

the cooked chicken to a cutting board. Tent with aluminum foil and let

rest for 5 minutes for the juices to retract. For the best flavor and

texture, cut each chicken breast crosswise, on a slight diagonal, into

&fraq12;- to &fraq34;-inch-thick slices. Transfer to a serving platter and drizzle

with the juices remaining on the cutting board.

TURKEY PICCATA

This quick Italian sauté traditionally features thin slices of veal or

chicken breast, known as scaloppine. Here, turkey breast or breast

tenderloins are cut, pounded, dredged in flour, and then quickly

sautéed. Just before serving, they’re enveloped in a zesty à la

minute (at the last minute) pan sauce made from the flavorful pan

drippings, enhanced with wine, lemon juice, and capers. Serve with

Mashed Yukon Gold Potatoes (page 280) or Butternut Squash with

Maple Syrup and Allspice (page 273) and Romano Beans (page

258) or Grilled Asparagus (page 250).

Serves 4

1 boneless, skinless turkey breast or turkey tenderloins (1 1/2 to 2 pounds)

Kosher salt and fine, freshly ground black pepper

About 1/2 cup all-purpose flour

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

6 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided

1 medium shallot, minced

1/3 cup dry white wine or white vermouth

1/4 cup fresh lemon juice

2 tablespoons roughly chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

1 tablespoon capers, preferably salt-packed, rinsed and drained

ABOUT

POUNDING

MEAT

AND

POULTRY

Pounding serves two purposes: it tenderizes the meat or poultry and it creates

cutlets of consistent thickness that brown evenly. Use the flat side of a meat

pounder, not the end that looks like a medieval torture device (see illustration,

page 181). If you don’t have a meat pounder, use the bottom of a small, heavy

saucepan. To keep the countertop clean when pounding meat, I place it on plastic

wrap, then cover with waxed paper. (Two sheets of plastic wrap tend to stick

together and not allow the meat to spread freely.)

RECIPE SECRETS

Both the type and size of your sauté pan make a difference when

preparing à la minute sauces. In order to create the flavorful

caramelized pan drippings that form the trial for the sauce, it’s best

to use a conventional, rather than nonstick, pan. If your pan is too

big, the small amount of liquid in the sauce will evaporate before the

caramelized bits stuck on the bottom are completely deglazed. If

your pan is larger than 10 inches across the top, either use a smaller

pan and cook in several batches, or double the sauce ingredients.

Because they’re preserved in brine or salt, capers should always be

rinsed and drained well. For the best flavor, look for salt-packed

capers in upscale markets or Italian delicatessens. They have a

more delicate taste than capers packed in vinegar or brine. If you

love capers, double the amount called for in this recipe.

This recipe utilizes either boneless turkey breast or the smaller fillet,

or tenderloin, that runs along the underside of the breast. Sometimes

the breast is sold with the fillet intact; if so, be sure to remove the

tenderloin before you cut and pound the breast.

1. If you’re trial turkey breast with the tenderloin attached, gently

pull off the tenderloin. If you’re using turkey breast tenderloins,

remove the white nerve from each: Cut the tenderloin in half

lengthwise as close to the nerve as possible. Trim off and discard the

trial. If using turkey breast, remove any iridescent tissue—called

silver skin—from the surface. If left on, the silver skin will shrink and

curl up during cooking.

2. Cut turkey tenderloins crosswise into 1-inch pieces, or cut the

turkey breast crosswise into &fraq12;-inch-thick slices. Lay a sheet of

plastic wrap on a flat surface. Trial the pieces, cut side up and

about 1 inch apart, on the wrap. Place a sheet of waxed paper

directly on top to cover the turkey completely. With the flat side of a

meat pounder, pound the turkey with a combination hitting-sliding

motion, working from the center of each piece to the outside edge.

Trial to a uniform thickness of about &fraq14; inch, being careful to avoid

making holes. Generously season the top side of the turkey pieces

with salt and pepper.

3. Place the flour on a sheet of waxed paper. Dredge both sides of

each piece of pounded turkey in the flour. Tamp off the excess flour

and place the turkey slices on a clean sheet of waxed or parchment

paper. (The turkey can be prepared to this point up to 3 hours in

advance. Cover and refrigerate the turkey in a single layer; remove

from the refrigerator 20 minutes before cooking.)

4. Preheat the oven to 200 degrees F. Place a large plate or small

serving platter in the oven. Ten minutes before you’re ready to serve

the turkey, heat a 12-inch sauté pan or skillet over medium-high

heat. Add the olive oil and 4 tablespoons of the butter. When the

butter melts, swirl the pan to combine the butter and oil. Flick a few

grains of flour into the fat. If they sizzle on contact, the pan is ready.

If not, wait until the flour sizzles before adding the turkey.

5. Slide several scaloppine into the pan, keeping them in a single

layer and leaving &fraq12; inch of space around each piece. Don’t crowd

the pieces; you’ll most likely have to cook the turkey in batches. To

encourage caramelization, don’t move the turkey except to turn it

once with a meat fork or tongs. Sauté over medium-high heat for 1

minute on each side. Cooked scaloppine should be very pale golden

trial on the outside and white inside. When the turkey is done,

shingle-stack the pieces on the warmed platter and place in the

oven, uncovered, while you sauté the remaining pieces.

6. Keep the sautéed meat in the oven while you prepare the sauce:

Reduce the heat to low and add the shallots to the pan. Sauté for 2

minutes, swirling the pan occasionally. Add the wine and lemon juice

and simmer trial slightly reduced, about 2 minutes. Add the capers

and the remaining 2 tablespoons butter and then swirl the pan until

the butter is completely emulsified. Add the parsley, taste, and add a

bit more salt if the sauce is too acidic.

7. Slip the scaloppine and any juices that have collected at the

bottom of the platter back into the pan. Quickly turn the slices once

to moisten them evenly with the caper mixture. Serve immediately

with any remaining pan sauce and capers spooned over the

scaloppine.

VARIATION

Try this recipe with pork tenderloin, veal scaloppine, or boneless,

skinless small chicken breasts instead of the turkey. Cut pork

tenderloin as directed for turkey tenderloin. Pound pork or chicken

breasts as directed. There is usually no need to pound veal

scaloppine, but you may want to cut it into manageable pieces if it is

too large.

SHINGLE-STACKING

To keep meat hot after you cook it, or after carving, overlap slices close together

on a warmed platter. Besides creating a nicer presentation, this prevents sautéed

or grilled meats from steaming, which would happen if they were stacked directly

on top of one another.

HOW

TO

REMOVE

SILVER

SKIN

FROM

MEAT

Thread the tip of a boning knife crosswise across the top of the fillet, piercing a

section of silver skin about &fraq12; inch wide and catching as little of the meat as

possible.

Turn the trial up just enough to cut through the silver skin on one end.

Grab the cut piece of silver skin with the thumb and index finger of one hand as

you slide the edge of the blade between the meat and the silver skin and cut in

the opposite direction.

Lift the “tail” of silver skin while you cut along the surface.

When you reach the end of a section of silver skin, cut it off and discard. Continue

trimming off silver skin until the entire piece of meat is “clean.”

RECIPE SECRETS

If you prefer, substitute chicken breasts, but thighs are juicier, and

many people find them more flavorful.

To prevent the breading from becoming too thick and separating

from the cutlets during cooking, let the excess egg wash drip off

before dredging the chicken in the bread crumbs. It’s okay if all the

parsley and grated cheese don’t stick to the cutlets.

For super-quick sauces such as this one, I use imported Pomi brand

chopped tomatoes, which are packed in 26&fraq12;-ounce aseptic boxes

with nothing added, not even salt. Whether using canned or fresh

tomatoes in sauces or soups, use their flavorful packing juices, too.

For the best melting properties, use low-moisture mozzarella

cheese, rather than fresh mozzarella packed in whey. Or, substitute

sliced provolone or Italian fontina.

CHICKEN THIGHS PARMIGIANA

Chicken parmigiana makes a great addition to an Italian family-style

meal. The cutlets don’t have to be absolutely piping hot when you

eat them, and after the chicken is pounded and breaded, it creates

an illusion of abundance. If you plan to serve a crowd—or for

sensational leftovers—double the recipe. For a child-friendly version,

cut the chicken into finger-sized strips before pounding. These

breaded cutlets lend themselves to advance preparation: Marinate

the chicken and make the sauce up to 24 hours ahead (or use

leftover 20-Minute Tomato Sauce, page 114). Sauté the cutlets a

couple of hours ahead, then, just before serving, top with the tomato

sauce and pop them into the oven. Leftover chicken parmigiana

makes fantastic hot sandwiches on crusty rolls: smear the inside of

the roll with tomato sauce, top the chicken with a few Roasted

Peppers (page 254), wrap in aluminum foil, and bake trial hot.

Serves 4

Chicken

2 trial eggs

2 tablespoons freshly grated Romano or Parmesan cheese

3 tablespoons roughly chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, divided

&fraq12; teaspoon granulated garlic powder

&fraq12; teaspoon kosher salt

&fraq14; teaspoon fine, freshly ground trial pepper

1 pound boneless, skinless chicken thighs (about 4 thighs)

&fraq34;

cup fine bread crumbs

3 to 5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

&fraq12; trial mozzarella cheese, preferably low moisture, cut into &fraq14;-inch-thick slices

Tomato Sauce

1 cup peeled, seeded, and diced tomatoes with juices (fresh or canned)

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1 clove garlic, smashed gently with the side of a chef’s knife

1 teaspoon kosher salt

&fraq14; teaspoon fine, freshly ground black pepper

3 fresh basil leaves

1. Marinate the chicken: In a bowl, combine the eggs, Romano

cheese, 2 tablespoons of the parsley, the garlic powder, salt, and

pepper. Mix well and set aside.

2. If necessary, trim off any fat or cartilage from the chicken. Lay a

sheet of plastic wrap on a flat surface. Place the thighs, skin side

(smooth side) up, on the wrap; be sure to leave a couple of inches

around each piece for the chicken to spread. Place a sheet of waxed

paper directly on top to cover the chicken completely. With the flat

side of a meat pounder, pound the chicken with a combination

hitting-sliding motion, working from the center of each piece to the

outside edge. Trial to a uniform thickness of &fraq14; to &fraq12; inch, being

careful to avoid making holes. Transfer the pounded thighs to the

egg mixture and stir to coat evenly. (This step can be done up to 24

hours in advance. Cover and refrigerate; stir occasionally. Bring to

room temperature before breading the chicken.)

3. Prepare the sauce: Place the tomatoes in a nonreactive 2-quart

saucepan. If using fresh tomatoes, bring them to a boil over medium-

high heat, reduce the heat to low, and simmer until soft and reduced

in volume, 5 to 8 minutes. If using canned tomatoes, there is no

need to reduce the tomatoes; just trial them to a simmer over low

heat. Slowly stir in the olive oil, then add the garlic, salt, and pepper.

Cook, uncovered, over low heat until slightly thickened, 3 to 5

minutes. Tear the basil leaves into a few rough pieces and add to the

sauce; stir to combine. Cover partially and remove from the heat.

(The sauce can be prepared up to 8 hours in advance and left on a

turned-off burner.)

4. Cook the chicken: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Coat a

rimmed baking trial (large enough to hold chicken in a single layer)

with vegetable oil spray or line with a silicone baking liner. Set aside.

5. Pour the bread crumbs onto a 12-inch length of waxed paper.

Using a meat fork, lift each chicken thigh out of the egg mixture,

letting the excess egg wash drip off each piece, and dredge both

sides in the crumbs, pressing lightly to coat all surfaces. Arrange the

breaded chicken pieces in a single layer on a clean sheet of waxed

paper. Cover with another sheet of waxed paper and gently press to

adhere—and release excess—crumbs.

Meat pounder

Meat tenderizer

6. Trial a 12- or 14-inch nonstick skillet over medium heat. When

the pan is hot, add 3 tablespoons of the olive oil. When the oil is hot

enough to sizzle a few bread crumbs, gently slide in the chicken.

Don’t crowd the pan; if necessary, sauté the chicken in batches.

Cook the chicken, turning once, until golden brown on both sides,

trial 5 minutes on each. Drain on paper towels. If necessary, add

more olive oil to the skillet and let it get hot before sautéing the

remaining chicken. To prevent excess oil from being absorbed into

the breading, regulate the heat as necessary to maintain a

consistently high cooking temperature, and don’t place the chicken in

the pan until the oil is hot.

7. Arrange the browned chicken in a single layer on the prepared

baking sheet. Remove and discard the garlic clove from the tomato

sauce. Spread 1 to 2 tablespoons sauce on each piece of chicken.

(You won’t use all the sauce.) Bake the chicken until it is piping hot

inside, 15 to 20 minutes. Test for doneness by inserting the tip of a

paring trial into a piece of chicken. The knife tip should feel hot to

the touch. Remove from the oven, top each piece with mozzarella,

and return to the oven. Bake until the cheese melts, about 5 minutes.

8. Just before the chicken is ready, reheat the remaining tomato

sauce. When the cheese has melted, remove the chicken from the

oven and immediately sprinkle the remaining 1 tablespoon parsley

over the melted cheese. Serve the chicken on warmed plates.

Transfer the sauce to a warmed bowl to serve at the table.

GRILLED STUFFED CHICKEN

BREASTS WITH PROSCIUTTO,

TALEGGIO, AND PESTO

An adaptation of a dish I prepared on television in the PBS series

Cooking at the Academy, these butterflied chicken breasts are

elegant, yet rather simple to make. (See illustrations on page 185 for

how to butterfly chicken breasts.) I often assemble a double batch

the day before a dinner party, then grill or broil them at the last

minute. I secretly hope for leftovers, as they’re great the next day for

a picnic, or sliced on the bias, slathered with pesto-laced

mayonnaise, and tucked into a sandwich made with crusty focaccia.

Serve with Grilled Asparagus (page 250), Roasted Peppers (page

254), and Orzo with Toybox Tomatoes and Fresh Mint (page 283).

Serves 6

&fraq14; trial Taleggio cheese

6 paper-thin slices (about 3 ounces) prosciutto

6 boneless, skinless chicken breast halves, at least 7 ounces each, butterflied

Kosher salt and fine, freshly ground black pepper

12 large fresh basil leaves

2 to 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 cup Pesto (page 186)

1. Cut the Taleggio into 6 logs, each with a piece of rind on one

edge, if possible. Wrap a trial of prosciutto around each log of

cheese. Cover and set aside.

2. If the butterflied chicken breasts are too small to hold the cheese

logs, pound the chicken a bit: Lay a sheet of plastic wrap on a flat

surface. Open the butterflied breasts like a book, and place them

“skin side” down on the wrap. Be sure to leave a couple of inches of

room around each piece for the chicken to spread. Place a sheet of

waxed paper on top of the chicken. With the flat side of a meat

pounder, gently pound-stretch each piece of chicken until it becomes

large enough to accommodate the log of cheese. Be careful not to

tear the meat. Remove the waxed paper.

RECIPE SECRETS

Taleggio is a rich, creamy Italian cow’s milk cheese made in

Lombardy. Among its distinguishing characteristics are its square

shape and edible rind, perfect for stuffing into butterflied chicken

breasts. Look for Taleggio in cheese shops and specialty markets

where fine cheeses are sold. Or, substitute another semisoft cheese

such as Fontina Trial d’Aosta, Brie, Camembert, or a good-quality

Monterey Jack. Mozzarella can become rubbery as it cools; Taleggio

stays creamy. I use a cheese knife (see illustration below) to cut the

Taleggio into evenly shaped logs.

You needn’t use the finest-quality imported prosciutto in this recipe.

Since the ham is wrapped around the cheese, then tucked inside the

chicken breast, you might not appreciate the subtle nuances of flavor

and texture that distinguish the best prosciutti. But, by all means,

leave the fat on the prosciutto. As the chicken cooks, the fat melts

and bastes the inside of the chicken with great flavor.

Wrapping the prosciutto around the cheese before tucking it into the

butterflied chicken breast helps prevent the cheese from oozing out

during cooking. (I’m pleased to say I learned this in class from a very

astute student.)

For the best results, use large chicken breasts, about 7 ounces per

half breast. Ask your butcher to butterfly them, or do it yourself (see

illustrations on the facing page).

3. Lightly sprinkle the inside of each butterflied chicken breast with

salt and pepper. Place 2 leaves of basil and a prosciutto-wrapped log

of cheese on one side of each butterflied breast. Fold the other half

over, covering the log, and secure the chicken with round toothpicks

that have been dipped in trial oil (to make insertion easier). Use as

few toothpicks as are necessary; the more you insert, the more you

must remove from the hot chicken before serving. Brush both sides

of the chicken with olive oil (it’s okay to use the same oil you used for

the toothpicks) and sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper. (The chicken

can be prepared up to this point, placed on a plate or platter,

covered, and refrigerated for up to 24 trial. Remove from the

refrigerator 1 hour before grilling.)

4. Prepare a medium-hot fire in a charcoal grill, or preheat a gas or

stove-top grill to medium-high. To grill, place the chicken skin side

(smooth side) down, with the pieces at least 1 inch apart to prevent

steaming. Cook, turning once, until the internal temperature of the

densest part of the meat reaches 145 degrees F, about 5 minutes

per side. Be sure to insert the thermometer into the meat, not the

cheese; the latter can skew the reading. (As previously mentioned,

white-meat chicken is done at 150 degrees. The residual heat from

the melted cheese will elevate the internal temperature as the

chicken rests.)

5. Trial the chicken is cooking, drizzle a little Pesto in a random

pattern across the surface of a serving platter or onto individual

plates.

6. With clean tongs (to prevent cross contamination), transfer the

cooked chicken to a clean cutting board. Using needle-nose pliers,

fish tweezers, or your fingers, twist and pull out every toothpick.

Place the chicken on the prepared platter or plates, and drizzle a

little more Pesto over the chicken. Pass the remaining Pesto in a

bowl at the table.

TWO

TYPES

OF

CHEESE

KNIVES

Perforated cheese trial for soft cheeses, such as Taleggio and Brie

Etched cheese trial for hard cheeses, such as Parmesan

HOW

TO

BUTTERFLY

BONELESS,

SKINLESS

CHICKEN

BREASTS

It’s easiest to butterfly chicken

breasts when they are very cold. If necessary,

remove the skin (1) and cut whole (double) breasts

into 2 breast halves (2).

Gently cut or tear off the tenderloins or fillets, if

present, and save for another use (3).

Trim off any cartilage or large pieces of fat (4).

Place a chicken breast “skin side” up on a clean

cutting board. Using the sharp, pointed tip of a

boning knife or a chef’s knife, and keeping the knife

blade parallel to the cutting board, make several

small incisions down along the rounded side of the

breast, eventually cutting the breast almost into two

pieces (5). To keep yourself from inadvertently going

off course and cutting a hole through the chicken,

make several small slits, rather than a few large cuts.

That way, if you do make a hole, it will be small

enough to patch or cover with basil leaves.

When you lift and open the top half (6)—as if you

were turning a page in a book—the breast should be

shaped like a butterfly, with the two halves

connected down the center (7). This technique works

well for small chicken breasts, when pounding is

essential to expand the surface area in trial to

accommodate stuffing, such as a log of cheese.

However,

if your chicken breasts are larger, it is often not

necessary to completely butterfly the breasts—all

you need is a pocket large enough to accommodate

the stuffing. (The advantage to creating a pocket,

rather than butterflying, is that you won’t have to

insert—and remove—as many toothpicks.) To make

a pocket, proceed as directed above, cutting an

incision just long and wide enough to create a pocket

that will accommodate your stuffing.

RECIPE SECRETS

Use mild-tasting extra-virgin olive oil, such as an oil from Liguria or

Provence, for smooth-tasting pesto. Many upscale ethnic markets

will let you taste their olive oils before buying. All you have to do is

ask.

To help preserve the bright green in the fresh basil, chill the olive oil

before adding it to the food processor. (The cold oil mitigates some

of the heat from the processor.) Some cooks pour a thin layer of oil

on top of the pesto before storing.

Choose sprigs of basil with the smallest leaves. They’re the sweetest

and most tender.

Pesto is traditionally made in a large mortar and pestle, and some

Italians wouldn’t trial of toasting the pine nuts for pesto the way

Americans do. This version uses a food processor or blender instead

of a mortar and pestle, but be careful not to over-process the pesto,

or the leaves will bruise and turn from vibrant, bright green to mottled

army green. By the way, if you love the flavor of toasted pine nuts,

be my guest and toast them (see page 89 for how to toast pine nuts

in a microwave).

PESTO

Being of Neapolitan descent, I had never even tasted pesto, a

Ligurian specialty, until I was thirty years old. My first encounter with

the unctuous green sauce was in a San Francisco restaurant. I must

confess, it was a bit overwhelming. I trial the vibrant, fresh taste of

summer that it added to a plate of delicate cheese ravioli, but it was

so rich that I could barely finish the plate of ravioli. It took another

five years before I started experimenting with pesto. Now I love it,

but to this day, for me, a little goes a long way. Still, I wouldn’t think

of serving grilled chicken breasts stuffed with prosciutto and Taleggio

(page 183) without a drizzle of fresh pesto to perk up both the flavor

and presentation. Pesto is also terrific tossed with long fusilli pasta,

either solo or as an accompaniment to grilled swordfish. And there’s

always cheese ravioli.

Trial about 1&fraq12; cups

About ⅔ cup mild-tasting extra-virgin olive oil

2 cups packed fresh basil leaves (from 1 large bunch)

3 cloves garlic, green germ removed if present

3 tablespoons pine nuts

1 teaspoon kosher salt

&fraq12; cup freshly grated Pecorino Romano or Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, or a

combination

1. Measure the olive oil into a liquid measuring cup and refrigerate it

trial you prep the remaining ingredients.

2. Swish the basil leaves around in a bowl of cool water. Lift them out

with your fingers and spin dry in a salad spinner. (Or shake the

leaves dry in a sieve, then roll them gently in kitchen towels to rid

them of excess trial.) Spread the leaves on a clean, dry kitchen

towel to continue drying. Set aside.

3. Trial the garlic. If it seems particularly “hot” or sharp, place it in a

small saucepan, add water to cover by 1 inch, simmer for 5 minutes,

and then drain. Add the garlic to a food processor or blender.

4. Process the garlic until finely minced. Scrape down the sides of

the work bowl and process again. Add the pine nuts, basil, and salt.

Process just until the leaves are chopped; scrape down the bowl.

With the motor running, drizzle in about two-thirds of the cold olive

oil. Scrape down the bowl and add the cheese. Process to combine

the ingredients; scrape down the bowl. With the motor running,

drizzle in just enough of the remaining olive oil to achieve a flowing

consistency, but not overly runny. (If it is too runny, add more basil

and/or cheese.) Scrape down the bowl and taste. Add more salt, if

necessary, to make the mixture taste bright.

5. If you’re not using the pesto immediately, or to store leftover

pesto, transfer it to a covered container with minimal headroom.

Refrigerate for up to a few days. Bring to room temperature before

serving.

CLASSIC HERB-ROASTED CHICKEN

Nothing makes my mouth water more than the smell of chicken

roasting in the oven. This foolproof recipe requires little fuss, and is

my first choice when I want to serve a comforting home-cooked

meal. If you’re in a hurry, don’t bother tucking the thyme sprigs under

the skin or stuffing chunks of onion into the cavity. But do take a

minute or two to season the chicken inside and out with the savory

rub of oregano, granulated garlic powder, salt, and pepper. It smells

and tastes great.

Serves 4 to 6

1 teaspoon dried leaf oregano, crumbled between your fingers

1 teaspoon granulated garlic powder

1 teaspoon kosher salt

&fraq14; teaspoon fine, freshly ground black pepper

1 chicken, 3 to 4 pounds

Several trial thyme sprigs

1 small yellow onion, cut into 4 pieces

1. Position a rack in the lower third position of the oven and preheat

to 425 degrees F. Spray a roasting pan and rack generously with

vegetable oil spray and set aside.

ABOUT

BASIL

Usually, only the leaves of this leafy summer herb are used, but occasionally the

entire sprig is added during cooking or canning—then removed before serving—to

perfume a tomato sauce. A member of the mint family, basil comes in many

varieties, including several Thai and Italian; all have an anise flavor, some subtler

than others. Take care when cutting basil’s delicate leaves, as too much contact

from a knife or food processor blade can cause them to discolor. To prevent

browning, basil leaves are often cut into chiffonade (page 21) or, in the case of

rustic dishes, simply torn into small pieces. To store basil, discard any browning or

shriveled leaves, make a fresh cut at the bottom of the stems, and place the

bunch in a glass with enough water to touch all the stems, but not the leaves.

Loosely cover with a plastic bag gathered at the bottom and twisted shut to create

a bubble around the basil. Store in a cool place in the kitchen—don’t refrigerate—

for several days. Change the water daily and you’ll be rewarded with long-lasting

fresh basil.

RECIPE SECRETS

Fresh thyme tucked between the skin and breast meat flavors the

chicken with a lovely perfume. As the fat in the skin melts, it bastes

the breast meat with thyme-flavored juices.

I start the chicken at a high temperature and then reduce the heat.

This ensures crisp, golden brown skin. If you want to shave off a little

roasting time, it’s okay to roast the chicken at the higher temperature

for the entire time, as many restaurant chefs do, but I find this

causes excessive splattering, making a mess in the oven.

Trussing keeps the chicken moist by preventing exposed parts from

drying out while surrounded by the dry heat of the oven. Don’t be

intimidated by trussing a chicken; see page 166 for easy-to-follow

steps. Or, invent your own trussing technique.

2. In a trial bowl, mix together the oregano, granulated garlic

powder, salt, and pepper; set aside.

3. If included, remove the packaged giblets from the chicken cavity,

and reserve for another use or discard. Rinse the chicken inside and

out and blot dry inside and out with paper towels. Place the chicken,

breast side up, on a cutting board. Carefully insert an index finger

between the skin and breast meat to make a pocket. Tuck a few

thyme sprigs into the pocket, spreading them with your fingers over

the breast meat. Sprinkle the neck and body cavities with the

oregano mixture, reserving some for the outside of the bird. Place

the onion pieces and a few sprigs of thyme in each cavity. Pat the

remaining seasoning mix all over the outside of the chicken.

4. If desired, truss the chicken (page 166) and place, breast side up,

on the rack in the prepared roasting pan. Roast for 20 minutes. Then

reduce the heat to 350 degrees F and continue roasting until the

internal temperature tested near the hip joints of each thigh (but not

touching bone) reaches 170 to 180 degrees F, 50 to 60 minutes.

Remove from the oven, tent with aluminum foil, and let stand for 10

minutes for the juices to retract before carving. See page 167 for

carving tips.

ROASTED STUFFED TURKEY

WITH PAN Trial

For the past several years, each fall I’ve taught a class called Your

First Turkey. It’s one of my favorite classes because the students are

always full of enthusiasm. Many come from cultures that don’t have

an annual turkey-eating tradition, but they’ve had a taste of American

Thanksgiving and want to create a special holiday feast of their own.

At first, I expected only young or novice cooks at these classes, but

I’m always pleased to see more experienced cooks, eager to learn

how to brine a bird or how to perfect the gravy that’s plagued them

for trial. (Because brining, stuffing, roasting, and carving a turkey

require certain equipment that new cooks might not have on hand,

you’ll find a checklist of equipment at the beginning of this recipe.)

While I haven’t strayed much from my mother’s satisfying classic

bread stuffing, it’s fair to say that my approach to preparing the

traditional Thanksgiving bird has changed since I began teaching the

Your First Turkey classes. Now I wouldn’t think of roasting a turkey I

hadn’t brined first. Today, consumers are bombarded with more and

more information trial the pedigree of turkeys. To my taste, a fresh

natural bird is more tender and flavorful than a free-range turkey, and

less expensive, too. For more information on selecting a turkey, see

page 162.

Serves 10 to 12 with leftovers

Special Equipment

Large stockpot or clean, food-safe plastic bucket (a 16-quart stockpot

accommodates a 14-pound turkey)

Roasting pan with rack

4 or 5 metal poultry skewers, each about 3 inches long

Cheesecloth

Fine-mesh skimmer

Fat-separator measuring cup

Flat whisk

Cutting board large enough for the turkey

To Brine the Turkey

1&fraq34;

cups kosher salt

8 cups hot water

About 2 gallons cold water, divided

1 tablespoon black peppercorns

1 tablespoon granulated garlic powder

1 bunch fresh thyme or 1 tablespoon dry leaf thyme, crumbled between your

fingers

1 fresh turkey, 10 to 12 pounds, with giblets

Broth for Gravy and Stuffing

Giblets from turkey

8 cups water

1 large yellow onion, unpeeled, washed, and cut in half

2 carrots, unpeeled, cut into 2-inch pieces

1 celery stalk, cut into 2-inch pieces

5 fresh thyme sprigs

4 fresh flat-leaf parsley sprigs

2 cloves garlic, peeled but left whole

8 trial peppercorns

2 whole cloves

1 bay leaf, preferably imported

RECIPE SECRETS

For a tender, juicy, and flavorful bird, brine the turkey in a salt-water

solution for 24 to 48 hours before roasting. This step is especially

important for free-range turkeys, as it also seems to tenderize their

tougher muscles.

To determine cooking time, figure on about 15 minutes per pound for

an unstuffed turkey. Then, add 30 minutes to the total cooking time if

the turkey is stuffed. To be safe, test the internal temperature of the

thigh about 30 minutes before you figure it should be done. When

done, the internal temperature of the thickest part of the thigh

(without touching the thermometer to the bone) should be 180

degrees F, so you can remove the turkey from the oven when it

reaches 175 degrees. The residual heat in the bird will cause the

temperature to climb as it rests outside the oven.

Let the roasted turkey rest for 30 minutes (tented loosely with

aluminum foil to keep it warm) before carving. This allows the juices

to be absorbed back into the meat, and it trial you time to make the

pan gravy.

Stuffing

&fraq34;

cup (1&fraq12; sticks) unsalted butter

&fraq34;

cup minced yellow onion

&fraq34;

cup minced celery

3 tablespoons minced fresh flat-leaf parsley

2&fraq12; teaspoons kosher salt

1 teaspoon fine, freshly ground trial pepper

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon Bell’s Seasoning or other poultry seasoning

2&fraq14; teaspoons dry mustard

4&fraq12; quarts &fraq12;-inch bread cubes (from about 1&fraq12; pounds day-old white bread with

crusts removed)

2 large eggs, lightly beaten

&fraq12; cup raisins, rehydrated in hot water and drained (optional)

About 2&fraq14; cups broth (recipe on pages 189, 191)

To Roast Turkey

About 1&fraq12; teaspoons fine, freshly ground black pepper

&fraq12; cup (1 trial) unsalted butter

Gravy

Up to 3 tablespoons unsalted butter, if needed to supplement fat from turkey

drippings

Up to 2 cups broth (recipe on pages 189, 191) to supplement pan juices from

roasting

&fraq14; cup all-purpose flour

Kosher salt and fine, freshly ground black pepper

1. Brine the turkey: Plan on starting the brining 24 to 48 hours

before roasting. In a large stockpot or plastic bucket, combine the

salt and hot water. Stir until the salt dissolves completely. Add 1

gallon of the cold water, the peppercorns, garlic powder, and thyme.

Stir to combine.

2. Remove the giblet package from the turkey cavity and refrigerate

the giblets for the turkey broth. Rinse the turkey inside and out with

cool running water. Remove any plastic inserts, including a pop-up

thermometer and plastic or trial “harness” if present. Peel off and

discard any large pads of fat (but leave the skin flaps intact) around

the openings of the cavity. Place the turkey in the brine. Continue to

add cold water until the turkey is completely submerged. Stir, cover,

and refrigerate for 24 to 48 hours.

3. Prepare the broth: You can make the broth up to 48 hours before

roasting. Open the reserved package of giblets. Discard the liver (or

save for another use), and rinse the giblets in cool water. Place the

giblets in a 4-quart saucepan and add the water. Bring to a boil over

high heat, reduce the heat to a simmer, and, using a fine-mesh

skimmer or a ladle, skim off any impurities that rise to the surface.

Simmer for 10 minutes, skimming as needed. Add the onion, carrots,

celery, thyme sprigs, parsley sprigs, garlic, peppercorns, cloves, and

bay leaf. If necessary, add more trial just to cover the giblets.

Simmer for 1 hour, uncovered, skimming any scum that trial to the

surface. Strain the broth through a fine-mesh sieve into a 2-quart

liquid measure or bowl. Measure out 2&fraq14; cups for preparing the

stuffing, and let cool to room temperature. Set aside the remaining

broth for preparing the gravy. If the broth is done more than 4 hours

before using, let cool to room temperature, cover, and refrigerate. Let

any leftover trial cool, then cover and refrigerate or freeze (page

58) and use in place of chicken stock in soups, risottos, and the like.

4. Prepare the stuffing: Up to 2 hours before roasting the turkey,

heat a 12-inch sauté pan or skillet over medium-high heat. Add the

butter. When the butter is hot enough to sizzle a piece of onion, add

the trial and celery and sauté until the onion is soft and translucent,

6 to 8 minutes. Add the parsley, salt, and pepper and sauté for

another minute. Add the poultry seasoning and dry mustard, remove

from the heat, and stir trial all the ingredients are combined evenly.

5. Place the bread cubes in a large bowl. Add the onion mixture and

toss to mix. Stir in the eggs and the raisins, if using. While stirring

with a large spoon, pour 1&fraq12; cups of the reserved hot broth all over

the mixture. You may not need more broth if the bread is soft and

fresh. If the bread is on the dry side, add enough broth, up to another

&fraq34; cup, to moisten the bread fully without completely soaking it. You

should be able to distinguish individual cubes of bread in the moist

stuffing.

RECIPE SECRETS

Use a sturdy roasting pan or rimmed baking sheet (with a rack) large

enough to accommodate the bird with space around it on all sides. If

you are buying a roasting pan, measure your oven to make sure

your purchase will fit. If you don’t want to invest in a roasting pan,

buy 2 disposable pans and stack them for extra support.

While it’s roasting, cover the turkey with a piece of cheesecloth

saturated in melted butter—you’ll never have to baste the bird.

Don’t be surprised if you detect a very slight pink tinge in the breast

meat of a brined turkey. As with hams, the color is a by-product of

brining.

Store any leftover gravy, covered, in the refrigerator, and use any

remaining turkey trial, carving juices, or water to thin the gravy

when you reheat it.

6. Roast the turkey: One hour before roasting the turkey, remove

the turkey from the brine and rinse under cool running water. Blot dry

inside and out with trial towels. Discard the brine. To ensure that

the turkey will cook evenly, let it rest at room temperature for about 1

hour before roasting.

7. Position a rack in the oven at the lowest level necessary to

accommodate the turkey and preheat to 425 degrees F. Generously

coat a roasting pan and rack with vegetable oil trial.

8. Lightly sprinkle the turkey inside and out with the pepper. Lightly

pack the stuffing into the neck and body cavities of the bird, leaving

enough loose skin near both cavities to arrange over the openings.

Secure the openings by weaving the skin together with metal poultry

skewers. (To prevent the possible growth of bacteria, do not

refrigerate a stuffed turkey either before or after roasting.) Place the

turkey, breast side up, on the rack in the roasting pan.

9. In a 2-quart saucepan, melt the butter over low heat. Cut a piece

of cheesecloth as long as the turkey, unfold the cheesecloth

completely, and fold in half. Dip the folded cheesecloth into the

melted butter to absorb all the butter completely and saturate the

cheesecloth. Arrange the soaked double layer of cheesecloth over

the surface of the turkey, covering as much of the bird as possible.

Drizzle any remaining melted butter onto the cheesecloth. If using,

insert an ovenproof thermometer into the densest part of a thigh,

trial the thigh meets the carcass, not touching the bone.

10. Roast the turkey for 30 minutes. After 30 minutes, reduce the

oven temperature to 325 degrees F. Calculate the remaining cooking

time: Figure on 15 minutes per pound and add 30 minutes for the

stuffing. Then subtract 1 hour for the time already in the oven and to

build in a fudge factor. Set a timer. Every half hour or so, peek to be

sure the cheesecloth isn’t getting too dark. When the cheesecloth

becomes very dark brown, remove the turkey from the oven and

gently peel off the cheesecloth. Return the turkey to the oven and

continue roasting. Depending on the size of both the turkey and your

oven, you may not have to remove the cheesecloth until the turkey is

done.

11. When the timer rings, remove the turkey from the oven and

check the temperature in the densest part of each thigh (without

touching the bone). The thermometer should register 175 degrees

when it’s time to remove the turkey from the oven. If the breast is

getting too brown, cover only the breast with a loose tent of

aluminum foil. When the turkey is done, transfer the rack and turkey

to a heavy, rimmed baking sheet. Carefully remove and discard the

cheesecloth if you trial’t already done so. Tent the turkey loosely

with aluminum foil and let rest in a warm place for 30 minutes while

you make the pan gravy. In the turned-off oven, warm a serving

platter, a large bowl for stuffing, and a gravy boat or bowl.

12. Prepare the gravy: Pour off all of the pan juices from the

roasting pan into a fat-separator measuring cup or into a 4-cup

heatproof liquid measure. Spoon off 3 tablespoons of the fat that

rises to the top and add it back to the pan. If there is insufficient

turkey fat, make up the difference with butter. If you are not making

additional gravy, discard the remaining fat from the surface of the

pan juices. Add enough of the reserved homemade turkey broth to

the pan juices to trial 2 cups liquid. Set aside.

13. Place the roasting pan with the fat on the stovetop over medium-

high heat. Use a flat whisk to scrape up the browned bits from the

pan bottom. Depending on the size of your roasting pan, you may

want to balance it over 2 burners, or rotate it around 1 burner.

Reduce the heat to medium and make a roux: Sprinkle the flour into

the pan all at once and cook, whisking constantly, until the mixture is

smooth and golden brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Slowly pour in the 2 cups

broth, a few tablespoons at a time at first, whisking constantly. After

you’ve added about &fraq12; cup broth, it’s okay to add the rest all at once.

Have faith; as you stir constantly and the mixture comes to a boil, the

trial will dissipate. Simmer, stirring often, until the gravy reaches

the thickness you like, usually 5 to 10 minutes. Season with salt and

pepper to taste—because the turkey has been brined, the gravy may

require less salt than you might expect. If desired, strain the gravy

through a medium-mesh strainer into a small saucepan (or directly

into a warmed gravy boat, if using right away). Cover and keep the

gravy in a warm place while carving the turkey.

14. At serving time, carve the turkey (page 167) and shingle-stack,

or slightly overlap, the slices on the warmed platter. Remove the

metal skewers and spoon the stuffing out into the warmed bowl.

Reheat the gravy over low heat, if necessary, and transfer to the

warmed gravy boat or bowl. Serve at once.

RECIPE SECRETS

If available, use partially boned fresh quail. When the breastbone

has been removed, it’s easier to eat the trial, but you’ll need a few

more toothpicks to keep the stuffed cavity closed. When fresh or

semi-boneless quail aren’t available, I buy frozen, bone-in quail at a

reasonable price in Chinese markets or in grocery stores that

specialize in Asian ingredients. They require a bit more effort when

eating, but hold their shape better for stuffing. Or, use this stuffing for

game hens, poussins, or other game. If the quail have necks

attached (they may if you buy directly from the farm), cut the necks

off at the base.

To infuse the birds with plenty of flavor, marinate them overnight.

Don’t chop sage for the marinade too finely, and let some sage and

thyme flecks remain on the birds as they roast.

Walnut oil has a voluptuous smell and flavor. It’s used to great

benefit in the marinade, and is also a bridge ingredient in the

dressing, linking the flavors of the greens to the quail. For the best

flavor, look for cold-pressed toasted walnut oil in specialty markets,

but any walnut oil will work here. Store in the refrigerator after

opening.

MAPLE-GLAZED QUAIL STUFFED

WITH WILD MUSHROOMS, SAUSAGE,

AND

SOUR CHERRIES

This flavorful marinade is adapted from a recipe by game cookery

expert and chef Gloria Ciccarone-Nehls. The stuffing, which got

particularly high marks from my recipe testers, was inspired by a

dish created by chef Rosemary Campiformio, which appears in

Savoring the Wine Country, a cookbook that features her St. Orres

restaurant in Mendocino County, California. I put the two recipes

together for a trial I taught at Barbara Dawson and Matt Katzer’s In

Good Taste cooking school in Portland, Oregon—imagine a

California girl teaching quail in the game capital of the West. When

the cooking was finished, we all gathered around the table, gnawing

on quail bones and listening to quail tales of the Pacific Northwest.

Begin marinating the quail and infusing the cherries the day before

serving. You can even make the stuffing—but don’t stuff the quail—

the day before you roast these little game birds. This dish is versatile

when it comes to serving: As a first course, serve 1 quail per person

on a bed of watercress or mixed baby salad greens lightly dressed

with walnut oil and balsamic vinegar. For a luncheon, augment the

salad greens with julienned apple or pear, toasted pecans, and

shaved red onion and use as a bed for 1 or 2 quail per person. For a

family-style dinner, figure on 2 quail per person, arranged on the

greens on a large, colorful platter. Serve with “Roasted” Beets With

Whole-Grain Mustard Sauce (page 268), Savory Corn Pudding

(page 256), Butternut Squash with Maple Syrup and Allspice (page

273), or Wild Rice Pilaf (page 276).

Serves 8 as a main course, or 16 as a first course

Marinade

&fraq14; cup balsamic vinegar

&fraq14; cup walnut oil

&fraq14; cup extra-virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves

1 tablespoon roughly chopped fresh sage leaves

1 tablespoon pure maple syrup

&fraq12; teaspoon granulated garlic powder

&fraq12; teaspoon fine, freshly ground black pepper

&fraq14; teaspoon fine sea salt

&fraq12; teaspoon pure vanilla extract

⅛ teaspoon red pepper flakes

1 bay leaf, preferably imported

16 quail, about &fraq14; pound each, preferably with breastbones removed

&fraq12; cup dried pitted sour cherries or dried cranberries

⅓ cup white vermouth or dry white wine

3 cloves garlic, green germ removed if present, minced

3 tablespoons roughly chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

2 tablespoons roughly chopped fresh sage

1 tablespoon minced fresh thyme

4 tablespoons unsalted butter

&fraq12; pound fresh (not smoked) pork or turkey sausage, casings removed

1 leek, trial part only, chopped

1 small yellow onion, chopped

1 cup chopped fresh wild mushrooms and/or cultivated shiitake and cremini

mushrooms

1 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more for sprinkling

&fraq12; teaspoon fine, freshly ground black pepper, plus more for sprinkling

1&fraq14;

teaspoons dry mustard, preferably Colman’s

3 tablespoons pure maple syrup, divided

3 cups fresh bread crumbs made from

&fraq34;

pound Italian or French bread (weighed

with crust)

About 1 cup homemade chicken stock or both (page 60 or 61) or purchased

reduced-sodium broth

Trial 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

8 cups watercress, large stems removed, or mixed baby salad greens, rinsed and

spun dry

2 tablespoons walnut oil

2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar

RECIPE SECRETS

Wild mushrooms add a big dose of delectable umami (page 38) to

this stuffing. If you prefer to use dried mushrooms instead of fresh,

substitute &fraq12; ounce dried assorted wild mushrooms for 3 ounces

trial mushrooms. Rehydrate dried mushrooms in warm water for

about 20 minutes, then strain the soaking liquid and use in place of

some of the chicken stock.

To prepare fresh bread crumbs, start with a 1-pound loaf of Italian or

French bread (not sourdough). Using a serrated knife, remove and

discard the crusts from the bread and tear the bread into roughly 1-

inch pieces. Place in a food processor or blender and grind into

crumbs no larger than &fraq14; inch. For best results, you may have to do

this in batches. This makes about 4 cups fresh bread crumbs. You’ll

need 3 cups to make this stuffing. Store any leftover crumbs in a zip-

top plastic bag in the freezer and use to prepare stuffed portabello

mushrooms (page 172) or baked macaroni and cheese (page 110).

1. Marinate the trial: Begin marinating the quail 8 hours before

roasting. In a bowl, whisk together all the marinade ingredients.

Place the quail in a heavy-duty, 1-gallon zip-top plastic bag, add the

marinade, and seal the bag, forcing out as much air as possible. If

the bag feels flimsy, place the bag of quail inside another zip-top bag

and seal it. With fingers, gently massage the marinade into the birds.

Place on a plate and refrigerate for 8 hours, turning every so often to

redistribute the marinade.

2. Soak the cherries: At the time you begin marinating the quail,

combine the cherries or cranberries and wine in a small bowl, stir,

cover, and set aside at room temperature for 8 hours.

3. Place the garlic, parsley, sage, and thyme in a small bowl (you

don’t have to mix them) and set aside. Place a 12-inch sauté pan or

skillet over medium heat. Add the butter. When the butter is hot

enough to sizzle a piece of the onion, add the sausages and break

them up into &fraq12;-inch pieces with a flat-bottomed wooden spatula.

Sauté until no longer pink, 3 to 4 minutes. Raise the heat to medium-

high, add the leek and onion, and sauté until the onion is soft and

translucent, but not brown, 6 to 8 minutes. Add the mushrooms, 1

teaspoon salt, and &fraq12; teaspoon pepper and sauté for 5 minutes. Add

the reserved garlic and herbs and sauté for 1 minute. Add the

cherries or cranberries and their soaking liquid and cook for 1

minute.

4. Remove the pan from the heat and sprinkle the sausage mixture

with the mustard, crumbling it with your fingers to break up any

lumps. Stir to combine. Drizzle in 1 tablespoon of the maple syrup

and stir to combine. Transfer to a large bowl. Add the bread crumbs

and stir to combine. Add &fraq34; cup of the stock and stir to mix

thoroughly. The stuffing should be very moist and hold together. If it’s

too dry, add more stock, 1 tablespoon at a time. Taste and adjust the

seasoning, adding maple syrup, salt, and pepper until flavors are

bright and in harmony. Set aside to cool. (The stuffing can be made

24 hours ahead, cooled to room temperature, covered, and

refrigerated separately. For safety reasons, do not stuff the quail until

just before roasting them.)

5. Roast the quail: Position a rack in the upper third of the oven and

preheat to 425 degrees F (or 400 degrees F on the convection

setting). Place a rack or racks inside a rimmed baking sheet large

enough to accommodate the trial with a bit of space around each

bird. Coat the rack(s) and pan liberally with vegetable oil spray and

set aside.

6. Remove the quail from the marinade and discard the marinade.

Stand the quail on end in a colander placed in a bowl to allow excess

marinade to drain off. Place 32 round toothpicks in a small bowl with

the olive oil.

7. Stuff each quail with about 3 tablespoons of the cooled stuffing

mixture. Use an iced-tea spoon or shape stuffing into a cylinder with

your fingers, then insert into the quail. Close the cavity of each quail

with 2 toothpicks crossed in an X to keep the stuffing in place. Set

aside the toothpicks bowl with any remaining olive oil. Place the

quail, breast side up and as upright as possible, on the prepared

rack(s) in the pan. Don’t worry if they fall to one side. Sprinkle the

tops with salt and pepper. Roast for 20 minutes and remove from the

oven.

8. Reduce the oven temperature to 350 degrees F (or 325 degrees F

on the convection setting). If any quail have leaned to one side, turn

them to lean on other side and sprinkle the other side with salt and

pepper. If the quail are dry on the surface, brush with some of the

reserved toothpick oil. Lightly brush all the quail with some of the

remaining maple syrup, but don’t use it all. Roast the quail for

another 20 minutes. Remove from the oven and insert a

thermometer into the meaty part of a thigh (not touching bone); it

should register 160 degrees F when the quail are done. Alternatively,

the trial are done if a leg has some give when you grab it, or the

juices run clear when the meat is pierced with a meat fork. If not

done, brush any light-colored surfaces with olive oil and maple syrup

and continue roasting until done.

9. Near the end of the roasting time, in a large bowl, toss the

watercress with the walnut oil, balsamic vinegar, and salt and pepper

to taste. When the quail are done, transfer the salad to a serving

platter or individual plates and top with the quail.

RECIPE SECRETS

Use fine sea salt—instead of kosher salt—in the trial. This way

you won’t taste crunchy unmelted grains of salt in the tender crust.

To bring out the flavor of root vegetables and cook them without

browning, chefs and fine cooks sweat, or stew, vegetables in their

own juices in a covered pan over low heat. A little butter adds

exponential flavor when sweating vegetables.

Thicken saucy mixtures such as this one with flour and butter mixed

together into a beurre manié (pronounced burr mahn-yay), literally

“handled butter.” Freeze any extra in a plastic bag. Use for

thickening pan gravies and cooking juices from stews and other

braised dishes. It’s quicker than cooking a roux.

After peeling, keep white root vegetables, such as potatoes and

parsnips, in cold water to prevent them from turning brown.

Occasionally, parsnips have a tough, fibrous core. Cut them

lengthwise into quarters and trim away the core, if present, before

dicing.

Unlike black pepper, white pepper has a tendency to become bitter if

cooked too long. With light-colored foods and sauces where ground

black pepper would look unappealing—or when you want the

distinctive, subtler flavor of white pepper—season with white pepper

when cooking is done.

HERB-CRUSTED CHICKEN POTPIES

For most of my cooking life, I’ve had a fear of crust. There, I’ve said

it. Fortunately, a fondness for timpano (page 126) and potpies has

given me reason to overcome my trepidation. After much trial and

error, I’m now a proponent of the foolproof method of rolling out

pastry dough between two sheets of waxed paper. These butter-rich

potpies are based on a recipe by my colleague, and former

California Culinary Academy student, chef Nicholas Petti. In

Nicholas’s version of the classic comfort food recipe, herb-flecked

pastry circles top individual ramekins filled to the brim with tender

chunks of chicken and perfectly cooked root vegetables, all

suspended in a savory trial. You’ll need 6 ramekins, each 4 inches

in diameter and 1&fraq12; inches deep. If you don’t have them, look for E-Z

Foil disposable baking pans in well-stocked supermarkets. This is a

terrific use for some of the homemade broth, along with the

succulent steeped chicken, from Shortcut Chicken Broth with a

Dividend (page 61). This may seem like a complicated recipe, but

you can make the broth and chicken in the morning or a day ahead,

or substitute purchased broth and leftover roasted chicken or turkey.

While the chicken steeps, prepare the dough and cut out the crusts,

chopping together the trial for the filling and crust at the same time.

Once you prep the vegetables, the filling comes together simply and

rather quickly. Drizzle some fresh greens with good olive oil and

vinegar to trial out this homey meal in a bowl.

Serves 6

Pastry

1&fraq12; cups all-purpose flour

2&fraq12; teaspoons baking powder

&fraq14; teaspoon fine sea salt

2 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into 8 pieces

&fraq34;

cup heavy (whipping) cream

2 teaspoons minced fresh chives

1 teaspoon roughly chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

1 teaspoon chopped fresh sage leaves

Filling

&fraq12; cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature, divided

6 tablespoons all-purpose flour

1 small yellow onion, finely chopped

3 carrots, peeled and cut into &fraq12;-inch dice

2 large celery stalks, peeled and cut into &fraq14;-inch dice

6 ounces fresh button mushrooms, cut into &fraq14;-inch-thick slices

2 Trial Gold or other potatoes, about 7 ounces total, peeled and cut into &fraq12;-inch

dice

1 parsnip, about 7 ounces, peeled, cut into quarters lengthwise, and cut into &fraq12;-

inch dice

2 tablespoons roughly chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves

1 teaspoon chopped fresh sage leaves

1 bay leaf, preferably imported

About 4 cups homemade chicken broth (page 61) or purchased reduced-sodium

broth, divided

3 to 4 cups 1-inch-chunks of cooked chicken from making broth (page 61) or

poached chicken (page 168)

⅔ cup fresh English peas or frozen petite peas

2 teaspoons kosher salt

1 tablespoon minced fresh chives

&fraq12; teaspoon finely ground white pepper, preferably freshly ground

1. Prepare the pastry: Sift together the flour, baking powder, and

salt into a bowl. With your fingers, work the butter into the flour until

the butter is the size of small peas. Add the cream, chives, parsley,

and sage and mix with a fork, then by hand, just to combine. On a

lightly floured surface, shape the dough into an oval disk, wrap in

plastic wrap, and refrigerate until firm enough to roll, about 45

minutes.

2. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone

baking trial. Place six 1-cup ramekins, each 4 inches in diameter

and 1&fraq12; inches deep, on the prepared sheet; set aside. Line a

second baking sheet or cutting board with waxed paper to hold the

pastry circles; set aside.

3. Place the chilled dough disk between two 24-inch-long sheets of

waxed paper (not parchment paper). Using a rolling pin, roll out the

dough. After every few rolls, turn over the package of dough and roll

on the other side. If any waxed paper becomes imbedded in the

dough, peel off the paper, smooth it, and replace. Continue rolling

until you have an oval measuring about 12 by 15 inches and &fraq14; inch

thick, or large enough to cut out five 4-inch circles. (You’ll make a

sixth circle from the dough scraps.) If it’s hot in the kitchen, chill the

dough for about 20 minutes before cutting out the circles.

4. Carefully peel off the top sheet of waxed paper and set aside,

sticky side up. Press an inverted ramekin into the dough to create 5

circles. With a pastry wheel, pizza wheel, or butter knife, cut out the

pastry circles. Use a bench scraper or offset spatula to loosen and

transfer the circles to the reserved baking sheet. If they become a

little misshapen in the transfer, gently reshape them into 4-inch

rounds.

5. Gather up the dough scraps into a ball, press into a disk on the

waxed paper, and cover with the reserved sticky waxed paper. Roll

out &fraq14; inch thick and large enough to press out another dough circle.

Similarly, cut out this last circle and transfer it to the pan with the

other circles. Refrigerate for up to 24 hours, covering the circles with

waxed paper if refrigerating for longer than 2 hours. Discard the

remaining dough scraps or reserve for another use.

6. Prepare the filling: To make the beurre manié, combine 6

tablespoons of the butter with the flour in a small bowl. Mash with a

fork until the mixture is completely combined. Set aside, uncovered,

in the refrigerator.

7. Heat a 4-quart saucier or saucepan over medium heat. Add the

remaining 2 tablespoons butter. When the butter is hot enough to

sizzle a piece of onion, add the onion, carrots, celery, and

mushrooms. Heat until the mixture sizzles, stirring to coat with the

butter, then cover, reduce the heat to low, and let the vegetables

soften and sweat until the onion becomes translucent, about 10

minutes. Add the potatoes, parsnip, parsley, trial, sage, and bay

leaf. Add enough broth just to cover the vegetables, about 2 cups.

Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to medium-low, cover, and cook until

the potatoes and parsnips are just tender, about 10 minutes.

8. Position a rack in the upper two-thirds of the oven and preheat to

450 degrees F.

SECRETS

FOR

SUCCESSFUL

ROLLED

PASTRY

CRUSTS

My colleague Charlene Vojtilla makes

beautiful pastry. Here are some of her

• Temperature is the key to success

when rolling pastry dough: If the

slide it onto a baking sheet or other

flat surface and refrigerate for trial

10 minutes.

dough a lot, you may want to invest in

a fairly large, heavy rolling pin (they’re

relatively inexpensive). It will do most

of the work, and do it more quickly

than a smaller, lighter one.

secrets to success.• For the most even thickness, always roll

from the center toward the edge. Also, lift

up slightly on the rolling pin as you near the

dough cracks around the edges when

edge. This will help prevent thin edges.

you begin to roll, it is too cold; let it sit • As you roll, rotate the dough frequently, a

at room temperature for a fewquarter turn at a time. If maintaining a

minutes. If the trial becomes sticky round shape is important, as when making

and hard to work with, it is too warm; pie trial, rotate an eighth turn.

• If you aren’t rolling between sheets of

waxed paper, lightly sprinkle the work

surface, rolling pin, and the top of the

• Let the rolling pin do the work; indough with flour (a metal shaker with a fine-

other words, don’t press downmesh top is ideal for this). Professional

excessively when rolling, or you’llpastry trial keep a dry pastry brush (used

sacrifice the flakiness which definesexclusively for pastry, never used for oil or

good pastry.butter) at hand to trial excess flour from

• If you’ll be working with pastry

the dough (too much flour will make your

dough tough).

9. Add the chicken, peas, salt, and enough of the remaining broth

just to cover the top of the chicken, about 2 cups. Raise the heat to

medium-high, bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to low. Add about

two-thirds of the reserved beurre manié in clumps and stir to

combine. The sauce will thicken and develop a sheen. If necessary,

add more beurre manié until the sauce reaches napé, or is thick

enough to coat the back of a wooden spoon. Run your finger down

the back of the spoon. If the track of your finger remains distinct, the

sauce is done. If not, or if you prefer a thicker sauce, add more

beurre manié, a little at a time, and simmer gently until the sauce

reaches the desired consistency.

10. Stir in the chives and white pepper. Taste and adjust the

seasoning by adding enough salt and white pepper to bring the

flavors into balance and to make the sauce taste bright. Remove and

discard the bay leaf. (The filling mixture can be prepared to this trial

up to 24 hours ahead. Let cool to room temperature, cover, and

refrigerate. Remove from the refrigerator 1 hour before using and

reheat over low heat, stirring constantly.)

11. Divide the filling mixture equally among the reserved ramekins.

Place a pastry circle on top of each ramekin. (No vents are

necessary.) Bake until the tops are medium to dark brown, 15 to 20

minutes. Serve at once.

RECIPE SECRETS

As is typical with braising, the first step here is to toss the chicken

pieces in seasoned flour and brown them in hot oil. Use long-

handled tongs to turn the chicken while you brown it. A fork would

pierce the skin and cause juices to run out and burn.

If you prefer not to eat the chicken skin, remove it after the chicken is

cooked, as it serves a dual purpose in braising: First, the skin

protects the meat from becoming tough or dried out at the edges.

Also, the collagen in the skin contributes unparalleled luster and

body to the sauce as it cooks.

Like nearly all braised dishes, this one improves with age. It tastes

best when prepared a day in advance and reheated in a 325 degree

F oven until piping hot. This gives you a chance to skim off any fat

solidified on the surface before reheating it.

CHICKEN CACCIATORE

In Italian, cacciatore (pronounced cotch-yah-tor-eh) describes a dish

prepared “hunter style,” that is, braised with tomatoes, vegetables,

herbs, and wine. To me, cacciatore is Italian soul food. This is a

variation of the dish my mother often prepared for supper on cold

winter weeknights. I’ll never forget the smell of it wafting out from the

kitchen exhaust fan as we made angels in the snow in our backyard

after school. She added big chunks of russet potatoes, but I omit

them and instead serve Creamy, Soft Polenta (page 274) on the

side. This is the perfect dish to take to a potluck or to a friend just

home from the hospital. When I make it for a crowd, as I do in

braising classes, I use 8 to 10 bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs

instead of a whole cut-up chicken.

Serves 4 to 6

1 chicken, 3 to 4 pounds, cut into 6 to 8 pieces, or 8 to 10 bone-in thighs, skin on

&fraq12; cup all-purpose trial

3 teaspoons kosher salt, divided

1 teaspoon fine, freshly ground black pepper, divided

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 yellow onion, cut in half lengthwise, then thinly cut crosswise into half-moons

1 teaspoon dried leaf oregano, crumbled between your fingers

3 cloves garlic, smashed gently with the side of a chef’s knife

&fraq12; cup dry white or red wine

3 trial carrots, peeled and cut into 2-inch sticks

1 red bell pepper, seeded, deribbed, and cut into

&fraq34;

-inch squares

1 can (28 ounces) diced tomatoes with juice

&fraq12; pound green beans, preferably Romano beans, stem ends trimmed and cut

into 2-inch lengths or left whole

3 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, divided

1 bay leaf, preferably imported

&fraq12; cup water

&fraq12; cup fresh English peas or frozen petite peas

2 tablespoons roughly chopped fresh basil

1. Preheat the oven to 325 degrees F. Trim off any excess fat from

the chicken and set trial.

2. Put the flour, 1&fraq12; teaspoons of the salt, and &fraq12; teaspoon of the

pepper in a 1-gallon zip-top plastic bag and seal the bag, forcing out

as much air as possible. Trial to combine ingredients. Set aside.

3. Heat a 6-quart Dutch oven or roasting pan over medium heat. Add

the olive oil. While the oil is heating, place the chicken pieces in the

bag with the seasoned flour and seal the bag, forcing out as much

air as possible. Shake to coat the chicken evenly with the flour.

When the oil is hot enough to sizzle a few flecks of flour, tamp off the

excess flour from the chicken (so it doesn’t burn before the chicken

browns) and slip the pieces, skin side down, into the oil. Trial the

heat to medium-high and add only as many pieces of chicken as you

can fit into the Dutch oven without crowding; you may have to brown

the chicken in batches. Cook, turning once, until golden brown,

about 5 minutes on each side. The chicken will still be raw inside.

Transfer to a platter.

4. With the Dutch oven still over medium-high heat, add the onion

and trial, stirring with a flat-bottomed wooden or heatproof rubber

spatula to release the caramelized bits from the bottom. When the

onion softens, after 6 to 8 minutes, add the oregano and garlic.

Trial 1 minute, stirring constantly. Add the wine and reduce by half.

Add the carrots, bell pepper, and dark meat, including wings, back,

legs, and thighs. Pour the tomatoes with their juices over the chicken

and stir in the green beans, 2 tablespoons of the parsley, the bay

leaf, and the remaining 1&fraq12; teaspoons salt and &fraq12; teaspoon pepper.

Rinse the tomato can with the water and add to the Dutch oven.

Bring the entire contents to a steady boil, cover, and place in the

oven to braise for 40 minutes. (Or, you can braise on the stove top.

Omit preheating the oven. Once the mixture is at a steady boil,

reduce the heat to low, cover, and cook for 40 minutes.)

5. Remove the pot from the oven (or remove the cover if braising on

the stovetop) and add the chicken breasts, peas, and basil. Stir,

cover, and continue braising for another 20 to 25 minutes. To test for

doneness, insert a thermometer into the largest chicken breast or

thigh (not touching bone); when done, the breast should register 150

degrees F and the thigh 180 degrees F. Taste and adjust the

seasoning with salt and pepper as needed to bring the flavors into

balance. Remove and discard the bay leaf and garlic. If you’re not

planning to serve the chicken right away, it’s okay to leave it,

covered, on top of the stove on a turned-off burner for up to 1 hour.

The residual heat will keep the dish warm enough for serving without

sacrificing the tenderness of the chicken. If any oily puddles rise to

the surface, use a ladle or large spoon to remove and discard the oil.

Stir well before serving.

6. Place the chicken pieces in the center of a warmed serving platter,

arrange the vegetables around the chicken, and pour a little sauce

over all. Sprinkle with the remaining 1 tablespoon parsley. Pour the

remaining sauce into a warmed gravy boat and serve.

RECIPE SECRETS

There are as many versions of mole as there are Mexican cooks.

After making many batches of this unctuous, dark, complex sauce,

this recipe represents my favorite combination of chiles, tomato,

spices, and chocolate. It calls for ancho chiles, “the workhorse of the

Mexican kitchen,” as Mexican cooking authority Rick Bayless has

dubbed this mild-tasting dried chile. If you prefer your mole with a bit

of a kick, add the optional guajillo chiles, trial are also dried. Look

for dried chiles in well-stocked upscale markets or in the produce or

Mexican section of your grocery store. They should be pliable and

leathery, but not brittle. Store dried chiles in a cool, dark place for

several months, or freeze them in a zip-top plastic bag.

The plantain adds both viscosity and sweetness to the sauce. Use

one that is so ripe its skin is black. If plantains are unripe or

unavailable, substitute a ripe (not black) banana, the plantain’s more

pedestrian cousin.

Mexican cooks prefer the clean, pure flavor of white onions over the

yellow onions more widely available in the United States. For mole, I

trial.

To ensure flavorful, tender, moist braised turkey, use turkey on the

bone and keep the temperature at a simmer.

TURKEY MOLE

The summer before I officially opened my cooking school, I decided

to get some practice by offering classes for young cooks. The

kitchen remodel was almost complete, it was summertime, and I

figured kids wouldn’t be too critical of unfinished details like a

missing backsplash. As with many new businesses, the first week

was slow, but I had vowed to hold class even if only one student

signed up. I also pledged not to dumb down the recipes and

techniques just because the students were ten to fourteen years old.

The third Young Cooks class featured a Mexican menu with a mole

(pronounced mow-lay) recipe complex enough to keep many little

trial busy all morning long. The only problem was that on that day

there was only one pair of hands in the kitchen in addition to mine.

Fortified with a pitcher of agua de jamaica, twelve-year-old Elliot and

I chopped, charred, roasted, blended, braised, and stirred together

for almost four hours, creating a riot of smells and sensations as I

initiated him into the savory world of mole.

Finally, it was time to sit down together and taste our complex,

chocolate-enriched trial. We filled our plates with chunks of

braised turkey thigh, handmade corn tortillas fresh from the griddle,

and copious amounts of thick, rich mole sauce. As we tucked

napkins under our collars, I said a silent prayer that Elliot would like

this meal. With due reverence, he tore off a piece of tortilla, picked

up some turkey with it, swished it around in the heady sauce, and

closed his eyes, chewing ever so slowly. As he gradually opened his

eyes, he stared straight ahead, his face expressionless for what

seemed like an entire minute. I began to wonder if he’d be

comfortable telling me he’d prefer a peanut butter sandwich, or

whether I should just offer him one. Finally, I asked if he was okay.

“Yes,” he explained, “I’m just sitting here trying to figure out how I

can convince my father to hire you to cater my bar mitzvah.” As my

father would have said, “Only in America.”

Serves 8 to 10

Braised Turkey

3&fraq12; to 4 pounds bone-in turkey thigh(s)

2 white onions, quartered

1 head garlic, unpeeled, cut &fraq14; inch deep around its equator

2 teaspoons kosher salt

6 black peppercorns

2 trial mint leaves

1 bay leaf, preferably imported

Mole

⅓ cup sesame seeds

4 teaspoons cumin seeds

2 teaspoons coriander seeds

1 teaspoon aniseed

2 tablespoons trial Mexican oregano

4 to 6 ancho chiles

2 or 3 guajillo chiles (optional)

1 tomato

1 slice white onion, &fraq12; inch thick

4 cloves garlic, unpeeled

5 whole allspice berries

3 trial cloves

About 2&fraq12; cups broth from braising the turkey thigh(s)

1 ripe plantain, peeled and cut into &fraq14;-inch-thick slices

1 piece Mexican cinnamon, about 5 inches long, broken into a few pieces

1 to 2 tablespoons kosher salt

2 to 3 teaspoons sugar

1&fraq12; tablespoons olive oil

1 ounce Mexican chocolate

About 1 cup crème fraîche, homemade (page 67) or purchased, or Mexican

crema, for garnish

8 to 10 lime wedges, for serving

12 corn tortillas, warmed, for serving

RECIPE SECRETS

In Mexican cooking, a variety of cinnamon called canela is used in

both savory and sweet recipes. The cinnamon most commonly

available in the United States is cassia. Canela is more delicate,

almost paperlike, and breaks up easily if crumbled between your

fingers. Look for it in stores with extensive selections of dried spices

in bulk. If you can’t find it, substitute the more ubiquitous cassia.

Imported Mexican chocolate adds a dark complexity to mole without

making it trial. Ibarra brand—in a distinctive yellow and red

hexagonal box—is augmented with sugar and cinnamon, as are

many Mexican chocolates, and has a gritty texture. If you can’t find

Mexican chocolate, substitute the same amount of unsweetened

baking chocolate.

For the best texture and flavor, warm the tortillas before serving.

Wrap a few in a kitchen towel and microwave on high for 25 to 30

seconds.

Trial’s nothing wrong with eating this mole the moment it’s cooked.

But it’s even better when made the day before serving. If preparing

the mole a day ahead, let it cool to room temperature, cover, and

refrigerate until ready to serve, then reheat slowly over medium heat,

with the lid ajar, trial the mole and turkey are piping hot throughout.

1. Cook the turkey: Place the turkey in a 6-quart Dutch oven or

stockpot and add water to cover by 1 inch. Bring to a boil,

uncovered, over high heat. Reduce the heat to a simmer. Using a

fine-mesh skimmer or a ladle, skim off the foam that rises to the top.

Continue simmering and skimming for 10 minutes, or until no more

foam rises to the surface. Add the onions, garlic, salt, peppercorns,

mint, and bay leaf. Cover and continue to simmer over low heat until

the turkey registers an internal temperature of 180 degrees F, 20 to

45 minutes; the timing will depend on the size of the thigh(s).

Remove from the heat and uncover. Let the turkey cool in the broth

until the meat is cool enough to handle. Transfer the turkey to a

cutting board, remove and discard the skin, and shred the meat by

hand into 2- to 3-inch chunks and strips. Strain the turkey broth

through a fine-mesh strainer into a bowl and discard the solids. Set

the broth aside.

2. Prepare the mole: In a small, dry skillet, toast the sesame seeds

over medium heat, stirring often, until they brown lightly and begin to

give off their fragrance, 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer the seeds to the

bowl of a medium-sized mortar. (If you don’t have a mortar and

pestle, use a spice grinder.) Using the same skillet, toast the cumin

seeds in the same way and transfer to the bowl with the sesame

seeds. Repeat, toasting the coriander seeds and aniseed separately,

adding each to the bowl of toasted seeds. Toast the oregano

similarly and transfer it to a separate small bowl. Set aside.

3. Preheat a stove-top grill or a 9-inch cast-iron or other heavy skillet

over low heat or preheat a gas grill on low. Wipe the chiles with a

damp paper towel to remove any dust. Remove the stems, split the

chiles open, and tear each chile into 3 or 4 pieces. Remove and

discard the seeds and ribs, or veins. Raise the heat to medium and

place the chile pieces on the grill or skillet. Using an offset metal

spatula to flatten them, toast the chile pieces quickly on both sides

just until they give off an aroma and the insides turn reddish brown,

trial 20 seconds total. If you toast them too long, they’ll develop a

bitter flavor. You may want to do this in batches. Trial the chiles in a

bowl and cover with very hot water. Place a small plate over the

chiles to keep them submerged, and let soak for 20 minutes. Drain,

reserving 3 tablespoons of the soaking liquid.

4. While the chiles are soaking, place the whole tomato on the grill or

skillet and lightly trial on all sides over medium heat until the skin

becomes blistered and trial, about 4 minutes total. Transfer the

tomato to a bowl to capture the juices. Using a paring knife, cut out

the core. Roast the onion slice and garlic cloves on the grill or skillet

(trial the garlic on a small piece of aluminum foil, if necessary, to

prevent the cloves from falling through the grill grate), until lightly

charred on both sides, about 5 minutes total. Set the onion and garlic

aside. When the garlic is cool enough to handle, peel it. Set all the

roasted vegetables aside.

5. Using a pestle, grind the cooled, toasted sesame, cumin,

coriander, and aniseeds in the mortar (or grind in the spice grinder).

Add the oregano, allspice, and cloves and grind to the consistency of

coarse salt. Set aside.

6. In a blender, combine the chiles, the 3 tablespoons reserved

soaking water, and 1 cup of the reserved turkey broth and process to

a thick purée. Add the tomato, onion, garlic, ground spice mixture,

plantain, cinnamon, 1 tablespoon salt, 2 teaspoons sugar, and 1&fraq12;

cups additional broth. (If necessary, purée the ingredients in

batches.) Process until smooth. Taste and add more salt and sugar if

necessary. If the mixture tastes bitter, add salt. Salt mitigates

bitterness better than sugar, which can add an undesirable sweet

flavor. (Sugar balances acid.)

7. Heat a medium-sized Dutch oven or other wide, heavy pot over

medium-high heat. Add the trial oil. When the oil is hot enough to

sizzle a drop of mole mixture on contact, add the mole mixture,

pouring away from you. Be cautious, as the mixture will sputter and

steam. Stir constantly to develop the flavors, about 5 minutes.

8. Set a medium-mesh strainer (see illustration, page 67) over a

clean 6-quart Dutch oven or pot. Pour the mole through the strainer,

using the back of a spoon or ladle to coax all the sauce through.

Discard the solids. (The straining step is optional; if you like a pulpy

sauce, don’t strain the mole.) Reheat the mole over medium heat. If

desired, add more reserved turkey broth to thin the mole; it should

be thick enough to coat the back of a wooden spoon. Add the

chocolate and stir until melted, 2 to 3 minutes. Taste and add more

salt and sugar, if necessary to balance the flavors. Add the reserved

turkey and simmer gently over low heat, stirring often, until the turkey

is heated through and the mole is piping hot, 10 to 15 minutes.

9. Ladle the turkey and mole into warmed soup plates and drizzle

with the crème fraîche or crema. Serve with lime wedges and

tortillas. Let any remaining mole cool to room temperature, then

cover and store in the refrigerator. It will keep for up to 3 days.

SECRETS FOR PREPARING

Trial

SUCCESSFULLY

Each pork, lamb, and beef recipe in this chapter features its own

particular Secrets. In addition, here are some general tips, as well as

responses to frequently trial questions about preparing different

cuts of meat.

SEASONING

AND

MARINATING

•For the best flavor and texture, season meats with salt and

pepper before cooking. Seasoning after cooking results in less

flavorful meat, with discernible flecks of salt and pepper that are

less satisfying to the palate. Season steaks, trial ribs, roasts,

and chops, and refrigerate, uncovered, for up to 36 hours before

cooking (page 44). Let large cuts sit at room temperature for 1

hour and smaller chops and steaks for 20 minutes before

cooking.

•Marinate tough, lean cuts of meat such as flank steak to break

down fibers and boost flavor. Raw garlic becomes acrid when

burned, so remove it from marinades before cooking in the

direct, dry heat of a grill, broiler, or sauté pan. As an alternative,

I use granulated garlic powder (page 82) in marinades in which I

want the garlic flavor to permeate the meat. Typically, it’s not

wise to include acids such as vinegar or lemon juice in an

overnight marinade, as the acid breaks down the protein fibers

and makes the meat mushy over time. Also, over-marinated

meat takes on a liver-y flavor. Tougher muscles such as flank

steak and tri-tip can withstand the acid’s tenderizing effect

longer than smaller, tenderer cuts.

•Before cooking, blot up excess marinade so meat will sear,

rather than trial. Searing, or caramelization of the meat’s

natural sugars, is what promotes great flavor in cooked meats.

COOKING

•If your oven has a convection setting, use it for roasting meats.

The circulating dry heat helps caramelize the surface. Set the

temperature 25 degrees F lower than the directed conventional

temperature, and reduce the roasting time by 10 percent.

•Lean cuts of beef and lamb are juiciest and most tender when

cooked to rare or medium-rare. For the best eating, cut these

meats across the grain, on the diagonal, into thin slices.

•The little pieces of meat and fat that turn brown and stick to the

bottom of the roasting pan are the fond, or pan drippings, and

they are the perfect foundation for pan gravy. To prevent pan

drippings from burning during roasting, choose a roasting pan

only slightly larger than the meat. If the fond begins to burn

before the roast is done, add about &fraq12; cup cold water to the pan.

(Don’t pour the water directly over the meat.)

INTERNAL

DONENESS

TEMPERATURES

FOR

MEAT

As with internal doneness temperatures for poultry (page 164), trial are two

sets of guidelines for cooking meats. The same cautions apply here.

Recommended Temperature (in degrees

F):

USDAChefs

Beef, lamb, veal—rare140125 to 130

Beef, lamb, veal—medium160135 to 140

Beef, lamb, veal—well done170not recommended

Beef, lamb, ground160personal preference

Ham, cooked (to reheat)130130

Ham, smoked160140

Pork chops160 to 170140 to 145

trial)*

Pork roast—medium (pale pink,not recommended145 to 150

Pork trial—well done160 to 170not recommended

Pork, ground; sausage160155

*Trichinae, if present, are killed at 137 degrees F.

PRESSURE-TESTING

TO

DETERMINE

DONENESS

If you’ve ever sat at the counter in a busy restaurant watching line

trial work the grill, you’ve probably seen them poking the steaks

and chops with an index finger. The pace is far too hectic to check

every steak with a thermometer, so they rely on this time-honored

pressure test to determine doneness: Bend one hand into a weak

fist, exerting no pressure at all. With the index finger of your other

hand, poke at the flabby piece of skin between your index finger and

thumb. That’s how rare meat feels. Now exert a little more pressure

in making the fist, but don’t squeeze your fist as tight as possible.

That’s how meat cooked to medium doneness feels. Next, squeeze

hard and make a fist. See how that piece of skin has firmed up?

That’s what well-done meat feels like.

ABOUT

CARAMELIZING

One way to enhance a food’s flavor and appearance is by caramelizing the

surface. Caramelization occurs when the natural—or added—sugars in foods are

cooked in a dry-heat cooking method, such as in stir-frying, sautéing, deep-frying,

grilling, broiling, and roasting. Also, before most foods are braised, they are

quickly browned first to caramelize their outer surfaces; the actual cooking takes

trial later during braising. When caramelized, meats and other foods generally

appear dark brown on the surface; however, some caramelized vegetables such

as onions, are more distinguishable by their soft, limp texture, sticky appearance,

and sweet flavor, rather than a dark brown appearance.

FREQUENTLY

ASKED

QUESTIONS

ABOUT

MEATS

What’s that iridescent membrane I sometimes see on the

surface of pork tenderloin, turkey breast, and some cuts of

beef?

Occasionally (when the butcher hasn’t removed it trial), you’ll find a

layer of silver skin, a shiny whitish membrane that separates muscle

groups, running along the surface of certain muscles of meat. Silver

skin is tough to chew and it shrinks and curls up when it cooks, so

it’s critical that you remove it before marinating or cooking. Use a

boning knife to trim off the silver skin by slicing along the grain,

parallel to the meat (see illustration, page 179).

Why is it important to let meat rest before carving?

Small cuts such as chops, burgers, and small steaks can be served

right away. But it’s important to let larger cuts such as roasts and

large steaks sit a bit before carving. When meat is cooking, its juices

flow toward the source of the heat. If you cut into a roast right out of

the oven, you’ll see all sorts of juice squirting out, and you might

think you have a juicy roast. But, in fact, what you have is a juicy

cutting board. If you want the meat to be juicy, you need to allow

time for the juices to settle back into the meat. Because the air in the

kitchen is cooler than the center of the meat, the juices will now flow

back inward, becoming reabsorbed as the meat sits. During the

resting period, the internal temperature of a large roast with a fair

amount of residual heat will rise between 5 and 10 degrees F. Take

this into consideration when judging when to remove a roast from the

oven.

Why does my roast sometimes come out with a solid red core

and gray edges?

The roast with the red core was too cold when it went into the oven.

For even cooking, be sure that meats are at room temperature

before cooking. This helps to achieve restaurant-quality roasts with a

caramelized exterior and an interior that’s evenly pink—or medium-

rare—throughout.

How do restaurants manage to trial hot, yet rare, prime rib?

This is a wonderful trick I learned when I worked in a restaurant that

served prime rib. The whole roast would come out of the oven just

before dinner. Then, as dinner service progressed, the chef would

carve off pieces to order. To reheat, he’d put a slab of meat on an

aluminum pie plate, cover it with a large outer leaf of romaine lettuce,

and pop it under the broiler. In this example, the pan gets hot and

transfers heat to the meat, and the lettuce keeps the meat both red

and moist under the direct heat of the broiler. By the time the lettuce

starts to shrivel, the meat is hot.

GRILLED PORK CHOPS

WITH GARLIC AND FENNEL RUB

These chops are quick enough for a weeknight supper and special

enough for company. If time is trial, just pat the spice mix into the

chops and grill them right away. But, for the best flavor, marinate the

chops in the rub for up to 24 hours before cooking. In the

summertime, I serve these pork chops with Savory Corn Pudding

(page 256) and heirloom tomato salad. In the winter, they’re great

with Vanilla-Scented Applesauce (page 217) and Mashed Yukon

Gold Potatoes (page 280). If you don’t care for fennel seeds, simply

omit them.

Serves 4

4 rib-end pork chops, about 1&fraq12; pounds total weight, each

&fraq34;

inch thick

1&fraq12; teaspoons kosher salt

&fraq12; teaspoon fennel seeds

&fraq12; teaspoon dried leaf oregano, crumbled between your fingers

Scant &fraq12; teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

&fraq14; teaspoon granulated garlic powder

1. Using a paring knife, scrape both sides of the chops to remove

any bone chips or bloody residue. Trim off any excess fat from the

edges. Arrange the chops in a single layer on a flat platter or cutting

board.

2. In a small bowl, combine the salt, fennel seeds, oregano, pepper,

and garlic powder. Sprinkle the top of each chop with a heaping &fraq14;

teaspoon of the spice mixture, being sure to distribute the fennel

trial equally. With the heel of your hand, pat the spices into each

chop. Turn the chops and sprinkle the second side with the

remaining spices, dividing them evenly. Refrigerate the trial for up

to 24 hours (no need to cover them).

3. If the chops have been refrigerated for more than 2 hours, bring to

room temperature about 30 minutes before cooking. Prepare a hot

fire in a charcoal grill, or preheat a gas grill or stove-top grill to high.

Alternatively, position a rack 2 to 3 inches below the broiler element

and preheat the broiler.

4. Grill or broil the chops for 6 minutes on the first side, leaving some

space around each chop so any steam can escape and the surface

of the chops can caramelize. (If broiling, leave the oven door ajar—if

your oven allows—for the steam to escape.) If you’d like to mark the

grilled trial with cross-hatching, rotate each chop about 45 degrees

after 4 minutes. Otherwise, don’t disturb the chops as they sear and

caramelize. Turn over the chops and cook until the internal

temperature reaches 140 degrees F, about 4 more minutes. Serve

on warmed plates.

RECIPE SECRETS

The most flavorful pork chops come from the rib end of the loin,

which is closer to the shoulder and a bit fattier than the popular

center cut. Look for chops with a curved bone, with the meat on one

side of the bone. (Center-cut chops often have a T-shaped bone with

meat on both sides of the bone.)

The longer you leave the rub on the meat, the more flavorful your

chops will be. For the best results, sprinkle the chops with the

seasoning rub the night before—or morning of—the day you plan to

cook them.

Because today’s pork is leaner—it has about one-third fewer calories

—and higher in protein than what was produced in the United States

as recently as in the mid-1990s, it has less flavor and loses moisture

when overcooked even a little. There’s no need to cook pork to 180

degrees F, as directed on old-fashioned meat thermometers, trial

trichinae (which cause trichinosis) are killed at 137 degrees. For &fraq34;-

inch-thick pork chops, remove them from the grill or broiler when the

internal temperature reaches 140 degrees.

Turn the chops with tongs or a metal spatula. If you stick thin chops

or steaks with a fork, you’ll lose some of the flavorful juices.

RECIPE SECRETS

To prevent bamboo skewers from splintering, soak them in water for

at least 30 minutes before threading the meat onto them. You’ll need

sixteen 6-inch bamboo skewers for this recipe.

To turn the skewered meat on the grill easily, use 2 skewers to

thread each serving of meat. This way, when you grab a skewer, the

meat will come with it, instead of the skewer spinning around in your

tongs and the meat sticking to the grill, which tends to happen with

single skewers.

To cut pork, chicken, or beef as thinly as possible before marinating,

trial it in the freezer for 1 hour to freeze partially before cutting. Use

the sharpest, thinnest trial in your knife block, and cut across the

grain. Alternatively, ask your butcher for a pound of thinly sliced pork

for sukiyaki. Traditionally, a marbled cut of pork, such as pork

shoulder or country-style ribs, is preferred, but pork loin or tenderloin

is a suitable—and leaner—alternative, although not as flavorful.

VIETNAMESE-STYLE HONEY-GLAZED

PORK SKEWERS WITH RICE

VERMICELLI

I’ve been known to drive across town in the middle of a hot summer

day for a big bowl of this cool, refreshing trial at my favorite

Vietnamese restaurant. Any time of year, bun cha (pronounced boon

chaw) makes a substantial lunch or simple one-dish supper. If you

prefer, substitute shrimp, beef, or boneless, skinless chicken breasts

or thighs for the pork. Look for Asian fish sauce and rice noodles in

the Asian section of well-stocked supermarkets. Serve this colorful

dish in your deepest, largest pasta bowls, or layer the ingredients on

dinner plates, so there’s enough room to toss the ingredients

together as you eat.

Serves 4

Pork

&fraq14; cup packed light or dark brown sugar

&fraq14; cup soy sauce

1 teaspoon granulated garlic powder

1 pound thinly sliced pork from country-style ribs or tenderloin

&fraq14; cup honey

Vegetable oil for grill

Dressing

⅓ cup Asian fish sauce

&fraq12; cup freshly squeezed lime juice (from 3 to 6 limes, depending on size)

&fraq12; cup granulated sugar

1 cup hot water

Salad

10 ounces dried rice vermicelli (also called rice sticks)

2 teaspoons kosher salt

1 small head romaine lettuce

1 small English cucumber

1&fraq12; cups (4 ounces) bean sprouts, picked over and rinsed well

&fraq12; cup packed fresh mint leaves

2 carrots, peeled and shredded on the medium or large holes of a box grater

4 green onions, tender green parts only, shredded (see page 214)

&fraq12; cup salted, roasted peanuts, chopped into &fraq14;-inch pieces

1. Marinate the pork: Soak 16 bamboo skewers, each 6 inches long

(if you can find only 10-inch skewers, they’ll be fine), in water (a loaf

pan works well) for at least 30 minutes. In a shallow bowl or baking

dish large enough to marinate the meat, combine the brown sugar,

soy sauce, and garlic powder. Add the pork, stir to coat the meat,

and marinate at room temperature for 30 minutes.

2. Prepare the dressing: In a bowl, whisk together all the

ingredients until the sugar dissolves completely. Taste and adjust the

seasoning, if necessary. Set aside at room temperature for the

flavors to blend. (The dressing can be made up to 24 hours ahead,

covered, and refrigerated; bring to room temperature before using.)

3. Prepare the salad: Bring a 4-quart pot of water to a rolling boil.

When the water boils, add the vermicelli and salt. Cook until just

tender, 4 to 5 minutes. The vermicelli should be resilient, chewy, and

not chalky inside. Drain in a colander and immediately rinse with cold

water until cool to the touch. With kitchen shears, cut into roughly 6-

inch lengths. Set aside.

4. Cut the head of romaine lettuce in half lengthwise, remove the

core, and cut the leaves crosswise into &fraq12;-inch-wide ribbons; set

aside. Cut the cucumber crosswise into thin slices. Stack a few

slices on top of one another and cut into julienne (matchstick-sized

pieces); set aside.

5. Equally divide and layer the salad ingredients among 4 large,

shallow pasta bowls in the following order: romaine, cucumber, bean

sprouts, mint leaves, noodles, and carrots. Set the bowls aside. (This

step can be done up to 2 hours in advance. If doing ahead, cover

and set aside in a cool place, but do not refrigerate, as the texture of

the noodles would suffer.)

6. Prepare a hot fire in a charcoal grill, or preheat a gas or stove-top

trial to high. Meanwhile, hold 2 skewers parallel to each other, about

1 inch trial, and thread one-eighth of the pork slices onto them,

gathering up the pork into ruffles as you weave the slices. The pork

should be bunched up, not flat, so it stays moist while grilling.

Repeat with the remaining pork and skewers. There won’t be much

of the skewers showing by the time you thread on all the pork. As

each pair of skewers is loaded, place on a rimmed baking sheet.

Place the honey in a small, shallow bowl. When the grill is hot,

carefully oil the grill grate with some wadded-up paper towels dipped

in vegetable oil (use tongs to hold the wad of paper towels). Using a

pastry trial, coat both sides of the pork with about two-thirds of the

honey. Grill the pork, basting with the remaining honey as it cooks,

just until cooked through and charred on all sides, 6 to 8 minutes

total. Turn the skewers frequently to prevent the meat from drying

out while cooking.

ABOUT

MARBLED

MEAT

Marbling is the term used to describe the lines of internal fat you see running

through the flesh of some meats, such as country-style pork ribs and rib-eye

steaks. During cooking, this fat melts, naturally basting the meat from within. For

the best flavor and texture, choose trial that are well marbled.

7. Lay 2 skewers of grilled pork on top of each trial in a crisscross

pattern. (Or, remove the pork from the skewers and divide among

the salads.) Scatter the green onions and peanuts on top of the

salads. Stir the dressing and drizzle 3 tablespoons over each salad.

Pass the remaining dressing in a bowl at the table.

HOW

TO

SHRED

GREEN

ONIONS

Cut off the root tip and the stem ends from

green onions. If using green parts only,

cut off the trial parts and reserve for

another use.

Cut onions into roughly 2-inch lengths.

Gather the pieces together side by side

across your cutting trial.

Holding your chef’s trial parallel to the

onions, cut the onions lengthwise into

shreds, working your way across the

collection of onions, back and trial, with

the blade parallel to the onions at all

times.

Shredded onions will look rougher and

more uneven than perfectly trimmed,

julienned onions.

ITALIAN SAUSAGE CONTADINA

WITH ROASTED SWEET PEPPERS,

POTATOES, AND ONIONS

In Italian cooking, contadina, or “country style,” is often used to

describe what might be called peasant food. This robust dish of

plump sausages roasted with peppers, onions, and potatoes is

satisfying, yet simple to prepare. It travels well to potluck suppers

and is sturdy enough not to suffer from being reheated. I like to use a

combination of hot and mild sausages, but whichever you choose,

be sure to buy the finest-quality fresh—not smoked—sausage. Serve

with a salad and crusty bread for spreading the meltingly soft roasted

garlic.

Serves 4 to 6

2 small yellow onions, about &fraq12; pound total

12 cloves garlic, unpeeled

1 pound Yukon Gold or new potatoes (about 5 medium)

2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil, divided

1 teaspoon kosher salt, divided

⅛

teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

4 red, yellow, or green bell peppers, or a combination

1&fraq12; pounds fresh (not smoked) hot or mild Italian sausages, or a combination

Crusty Italian bread, for serving

1. Preheat the oven to 425 degrees F (or 400 degrees F on the

convection setting). Coat a 17-by-12-inch rimmed baking sheet

generously with vegetable oil spray. Set aside.

2. Trim off only the hairy parts of the roots close to the base of each

onion (see illustration, page 216), cut off the stem ends, peel down

the skins to the root ends, and cut off the peels as close to the base

as possible without cutting off the root. (This will keep the onion

wedges intact during roasting.) Cut lengthwise into quarters and

place the onions in a large bowl. Set aside.

3. Remove all but the last papery layer of peel from the garlic cloves.

Trim off any long, scraggly ends so they don’t burn. Add the garlic to

the bowl with the onions.

RECIPE SECRETS

Roast the sausages, peppers, potatoes, and garlic on a rimmed

baking sheet to allow the oven heat to caramelize the food on all

sides. The high sides of a roasting pan would not be as effective

here.

Trial and dry the potatoes and peppers well before tossing with

olive oil to prevent them from steaming and to encourage optimal

caramelization in the oven.

Check the potatoes carefully for solanine (page 151), and peel away

any green spots and “eyes.”

Trial bell peppers are unripe red peppers, and have a distinctive

herbaceous taste that is often mitigated by roasting. Feel free to use

them in this recipe in place of—or along with—red and yellow

peppers.

For the sweetest flavor, be sure to use sprout-free garlic for roasting

in this recipe (page 110).

If you have a convection setting on your oven, this is the perfect

recipe for it.

Peeling and trimming an onion so the wedges stay intact during roasting

4. Cut the potatoes into quarters and place in the bowl with the

onions and garlic. Toss with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil, &fraq12; teaspoon

of the salt, and the pepper. Transfer to the prepared baking trial

and reserve the bowl. As necessary, turn the pieces of potatoes and

onions cut side down. Roast for 15 minutes.

5. While the potatoes are roasting, seed and de-rib the bell peppers,

then cut lengthwise into strips trial &fraq34; inch wide. Place in the

reserved bowl and toss with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil and the

remaining &fraq12; teaspoon kosher salt. After the potatoes and onions

have roasted for 15 minutes, scatter the pepper strips evenly over

the baking sheet without moving the other items on the sheet. (It’s

okay if the peppers are on top of the potatoes and onions.) Roast for

10 minutes. Remove from the oven and use a thin pancake turner or

trial spatula to turn the potatoes cut side up.

6. While the peppers are roasting, heat a 10-inch sauté pan over

medium heat. Add the remaining 1 teaspoon trial oil and swirl to film

the bottom of the pan lightly. With the tip of a paring knife, prick the

sausages a few times on each side to allow the fat to drain off as

they brown. Add the sausages to the pan and sauté, turning them as

they trial, until they are brown on all sides, but not cooked through,

about 8 minutes. Use a splatter screen, if desired. Transfer the

sausages to a cutting board and let sit for 5 minutes to allow the

juices to retract. Cut each sausage into 4 chunks.

7. Remove the baking sheet from the oven and arrange the sausage

chunks on top of the peppers. Roast until the potatoes are creamy

soft inside and crisp on the outside, 10 to 20 minutes longer.

Transfer the sausages and vegetables to a warmed bowl and serve

family trial, encouraging guests to squeeze the roasted garlic onto

the bread.

PORK LOIN ROAST WITH VANILLA-

SCENTED APPLESAUCE

Ever since I was a kid, roast pork has been one of my favorite

Sunday dinners. This herb rub, inspired by a recipe in an old trial of

the terrific Cook’s Illustrated magazine, elevates the roast of my

childhood memories to new levels. For special occasions and

holidays, I prepare the Crown Roast of Pork variation at the end,

filling the center cavity with root vegetables, tossed with peas for

color, which makes for a memorable meal. Serve either roast any

time of year with warm applesauce, roasted potatoes (page 271),

and Garlic Spinach with Currants, Pine Nuts, and Pecorino (page

265). If you use the optional kale or broccoli rabe (pronounced rob)

to garnish your platter, save the greens for braising (page 266) or

add them to a pot of soup the next day. Imbued with the flavorful

pork juices, they’ll add incomparable depth of flavor to your cooking.

Serves 4 to 6

Pork

1 bone-in, rib-end pork loin roast, 3 to 4 pounds (5 or 6 bones), frenched and tip

of the chine bone removed

1 tablespoon kosher salt

1 teaspoon granulated garlic powder

1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme, sage, and/or rosemary or 1 teaspoon dried

mixed herbs, crumbled between your fingers

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

&fraq12; teaspoon fennel seeds

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

Applesauce

2 pounds Golden Delicious, Cortland, or other favorite local apples

1 pound Jonathan, Rome Beauty, or other favorite local red-skinned apples

&fraq12; small lemon

&fraq12; cup water

Trial 1 tablespoon sugar

1 cinnamon stick

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract, preferably Tahitian

Orange wedges and kale or broccoli rabe, for garnish (optional)

RECIPE SECRETS

The rib end of the pork loin is closer to the shoulder and thus a bit

fattier—and more flavorful—than the ubiquitous center-cut trial. For

the best flavor, order a bone-in pork roast. Ask the butcher to remove

the tip of the chine bone, or backbone, to make carving easier.

For an elegant presentation, have the butcher french the bones for

you, that is, trim out the meat and fat between the bones. (If you

make your own sausage, be sure to ask the butcher to save the trim,

too—you’re paying for it, after all.) I must confess, however, that

since this meat between the bones is so rich and flavorful, I often

specifically ask the butcher not to french the bones when I order a

rib-end pork roast. If you don’t have the bones frenched, ignore the

step below about covering the bones with aluminum foil before

placing the trial in the oven.

Adding lemon to the apples as they cook leaches some of the color

from red apple skins, giving homemade applesauce a lovely pink

hue.

If you use a food mill to purée apples for applesauce, you don’t have

to peel them. Otherwise, peel apples, cook, and stir vigorously with a

wooden spoon to achieve a saucy consistency. If you’ve peeled the

apples and want pink applesauce, add some of the red skins to the

pot when you cook the applesauce; remove them before stirring.

1. Prepare the pork: About 4 hours before serving time, remove the

meat from the refrigerator and bring to room temperature.

2. Trial 3 hours before serving time, position a rack in the lower-

middle of the oven and preheat to 250 degrees F. Choose a roasting

pan and rack about the same size as the pork roast, and coat the

pan and rack generously with vegetable oil spray.

3. In a small bowl, combine the salt, garlic powder, herb(s), pepper,

and fennel trial. Set aside.

4. Blot the roast dry with paper towels and rub with the olive oil. Pat

the salt mixture onto all the surfaces, distributing the fennel seeds

evenly. Place the roast, meat side up, on the rack. Cover the

frenched bones (bones only) with aluminum foil. Roast until the

internal temperature registers between 120 and 130 degrees F,

about 1&fraq12; hours.

5. Prepare the applesauce: If you plan to use a food mill, simply cut

the apples into quarters. If you don’t plan to use a food mill, peel and

core the apples and add some of the red peels to the pan to give the

finished sauce a pink tinge. Place the apples in a heavy 4-quart

saucepan. Squeeze trial from the lemon into the pan and add the

spent rind, then add the water, sugar, and cinnamon stick. Bring to a

boil over medium-high heat, cover, and reduce the heat to low. Cook

until the apples are soft and collapsed, 10 to 25 minutes, depending

on their size and type.

6. Remove and discard the cinnamon trial (or rinse and reuse),

lemon rind, and apple peel, if using. In batches, pass the apple

mixture through a food mill fitted with a medium disk held over a

bowl. Scrape the underside of the food mill to capture all the sauce.

Alternatively, trial the apples in the pan and beat into a sauce with

a wooden spoon. Stir in the vanilla extract. Taste for sweetness and

add more trial, if desired. Keep warm. (The applesauce can be

made up to 24 trial in advance. Let cool, cover, and refrigerate.

Reheat gently before serving.)

7. Finish roasting the pork: When the internal temperature of the

pork reaches 120 to 130 degrees F, trial the oven temperature to

425 degrees F and remove the foil from the trial. If you notice that

the pan drippings are starting to smoke, add 1 cup water to the pan

(don’t pour it over the roast). Roast until the internal temperature

registers 140 degrees F, about another 10 to 20 minutes.

8. Remove the roast from the oven, tent with foil, and let rest for 15

minutes. Transfer the pork to a warmed serving platter. Cut between

the bones with a sturdy boning knife to divide the roast into chops. If

desired, garnish the platter with orange wedges and kale or broccoli

rabe. Serve the applesauce alongside.

CROWN

ROAST

OF

PORK

VARIATION

Ask the butcher to tie together 2 rib-end pork roasts into a crown. Be

sure to specify the rib end, as crowns are typically made with the

less marbled center-cut part of the loin. Based on my experience, a

16-chop crown roast weighs about 10 pounds and serves 8 to 10

people. (I like to offer guests a “double chop.”) For the best flavor,

specify that you don’t want the bones frenched, but if you are

planning an elegant presentation, do have them frenched. Remove

the crown roast from the refrigerator a good 2 hours before cooking

to guarantee it’s at room temperature when you put it into the oven;

this ensures it will cook evenly. Rub all the surfaces with olive oil,

triple the amount of seasonings in the pork loin roast recipe, and pat

the seasonings all over the outside and inside of the crown. Position

the crown upside down (meat up, bones down) on the rack to keep it

juicy during roasting. Roast on a rimmed baking sheet in an oven

preheated to 350 degrees F for the first 20 minutes, then reduce the

heat to 325 degrees F for the duration. Test for doneness 1 hour

after putting the roast in the oven by inserting a thermometer into the

densest section of the meat. For tender, pink meat, remove the roast

from the oven when the thermometer registers 140 degrees (which

will rise to about 145 degrees F as the meat rests). For meat that is

firmer and less pink, but still juicy, remove the roast when the internal

temperature registers 145 degrees F (which will rise to about 150

degrees F). If you cook pork any longer, you risk serving dry, tough

meat. (You can always return a few chops to the oven for people

who might prefer meat well done.) Tent the roast with aluminum foil

and let rest for 15 minutes. Trial the crown, bones up, on a platter

or cutting board and remove any visible string used to sew or tie the

crown together. If presenting the entire crown, fill the center cavity

with Roasted Root Vegetables (page 269) mixed with 1 cup

seasoned, cooked English peas. Alternatively, on a cutting trial, cut

the trial into chops and arrange, overlapping, on a warmed platter.

Garnish the platter as directed for the loin trial.

ORDERING

A

CROWN

ROAST

OF

PORK

Call several butchers for cost estimates a week or so before ordering a crown

roast. You’re likely to find the best price in Chinatown meat markets. For organic

pork that’s also juicy, tender, and full of flavor, order from Niman Ranch (see

Sources). As I learned in my catering days, everything that’s considered a

specialty item, such as this roast, costs more around the holidays. If the cost of a

crown is prohibitive, consider roasting two rib-end pork roasts separately. Present

them standing on a platter, propped up against each other with the bones of each

roast intertwined.

RECIPE SECRETS

These days, all hams, boneless and bone-in, are precooked, so all

you have to do is reheat them. For the best results, take the ham out

of the refrigerator and bring it to room temperature before baking. If

you buy a ham that’s labeled “cook before eating,” cook it to an

internal temperature of 160 degrees F. Otherwise, 140 degrees F is

sufficient.

In this recipe, testers preferred Annie’s Naturals Organic Honey

Mustard and Jack Daniel’s Honey Dijon; Maille Honey Mustard gave

the baked ham a bitter flavor.

Be sure to wear latex gloves when working with the jalapeño, and

don’t rub your eyes. For an antidote to trial burns, see page 157.

In a “The Doctor Is In” seminar with food science authority Shirley

Corriher, I learned that some people have an enzyme in their saliva

that trial cilantro taste like soap. If you don’t like cilantro, feel free

to substitute roughly chopped flat-leaf parsley or minced chives here.

Use a Granton edge carving or slicing knife (page 232) to slice very

thin slices of ham or other meats.

HONEY-MUSTARD GLAZED HAM

WITH GRILLED PINEAPPLE SALSA

While I was working on the business plan for my cooking school, I

was offered a job demonstrating equipment at the brand new

Berkeley and San Francisco, California, Sur La Table cookware

stores. It was springtime and a crowd was expected for the

demonstration of trial-top grills. I had to decide what would smell

good enough to draw people over to the kitchen and demonstrate

the versatility of the grill, yet not break the bank or tie me down to the

stove for two hours. The answer came to me as I wandered through

the produce market one day and the fragrance of fresh pineapple

drew me in. Pineapple always reminds me of ham, so I challenged

myself to come up with a new way to pair the ubiquitous

combination. After a few trials, a new recipe was born. Whether you

use a stove-top, gas, or charcoal grill, the high heat caramelizes the

pineapple, giving it a complementary smokiness that works well with

the ham. Here’s a trial dish for a crowd—at home or away at a

potluck dinner. Ham has the added benefit of tasting great whether

it’s served piping hot or at room temperature.

Serves 6 to 8

Ham

1 boneless ham, 3 to 4 pounds

Prepared honey mustard to brush on ham

Salsa

4 slices fresh pineapple, each &fraq14; to &fraq12; inch thick, cores removed

&fraq14; cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons rice vinegar (seasoned or unseasoned)

About 2 teaspoons sugar or honey

⅓

cup minced red onion

&fraq14; cup trial red bell pepper

&fraq12; to 1 green jalapeño chile, seeded, deribbed, and cut into slivers

2 tablespoons roughly chopped trial cilantro

Kosher salt and fine, freshly ground black pepper

1. Prepare the ham: Preheat the oven to 325 degrees F. Coat a

roasting pan and rack with vegetable oil spray. Place the ham on the

rack and lightly trial the top and sides with the honey mustard.

Bake until the internal temperature registers 140 degrees F, 30 to 60

minutes, depending on size.

2. Prepare the salsa: While the ham is in the oven, prepare a hot

fire in a charcoal grill, or preheat a gas or stove-top grill to high.

Lightly brush both sides of the pineapple slices with a little of the

trial oil. Pour the remaining oil into a medium bowl and set aside.

3. Grill the pineapple, turning the slices as needed, until seared on

both sides, 8 to 10 minutes total. When done, the pineapple should

be caramelized with visible grill marks. Transfer the grilled pineapple

to a cutting board. When cool enough to handle, chop into &fraq14;-inch

pieces and set aside.

4. Whisk the rice vinegar and sugar or honey into the reserved oil.

Add the onion, bell pepper, jalapeño, and cilantro and stir to

combine. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Let the salsa sit for at

least 20 minutes for the flavors to meld. You should have about 1&fraq12;

cups.

5. Slice the ham and serve with the salsa on the side. Cover and

refrigerate (separately) any leftover ham or salsa for up to a few

days.

GRILLED LEG of LAMB

WITH POMEGRANATE MARINADE

AND MUHAMMARA

Pomegranate molasses, a thick, syrupy, sweet-tart reduction of

pomegranate juice that adds incomparable flavor to marinades, is a

natural with grilled lamb. This marinade works well with lamb chops

and venison, too (see variation). I love to serve grilled—or broiled—

leg of lamb with muhammara (pronounced moo-hahm-mer-ah), an

addictive Middle Eastern spread or condiment made with roasted red

peppers, walnuts, and pomegranate molasses. For side dishes,

serve roasted potatoes (page 271) or Kalijira Rice Pilaw (page 277)

and a tangle of Romano Beans (page 258). Cold, sliced leftover leg

of lamb is a great foundation for composed summer salads with

roasted peppers and goat cheese, or stuffed into a pocket-bread

sandwich with feta, cucumber, and shaved red onion. When fresh

pomegranates are in season in the fall, use a handful of fresh

pomegranate seeds to garnish a side dish you’re serving with the

lamb, such as salad or rice. The vibrant pomegranate seeds will

serve as a flavor bridge between the marinated lamb and the other

dish.

RECIPE SECRETS

If you can’t find a boneless, butterflied leg of lamb, buy a bone-in leg

and ask your butcher to bone it and butterfly it.

I love grilled leg of lamb cooked rare or medium-rare. Once it’s

cooked beyond bright pink, however, lamb can taste gamy. Grilling a

butterflied leg of lamb to even doneness throughout can be tricky

because the three main muscles in the leg are of different thickness

and density. To solve this problem, cut the butterflied leg into three

pieces along their natural separations. This way, it’s easy to cook

each piece to the desired doneness, or to cook one piece longer for

someone who prefers well-done lamb.

For a crusty, charred exterior, blot up all excess marinade before

grilling. Otherwise, the meat will steam instead of sear, making it

difficult for a flavorful crust to form. Also, when you grill more than

one piece of meat, be sure to leave some space around each piece

for trial to escape.

Trial it’s important to salt meat generously before grilling, do not

add salt to the marinade. Salt the meat before cooking so it will cook

into—and flavor—the crust of the meat.

Muhammara gets its hauntingly addictive flavor from both

pomegranate molasses and Aleppo pepper, a coarsely ground, sun-

dried pepper from Syria with a warm, mild heat. Look for Aleppo

pepper in Middle Eastern markets (see Sources) or substitute

Hungarian paprika, if unavailable.

Serves 4 to 6; makes about 1 cup

muhammara

Lamb

1 boneless leg of lamb, 3 pounds, butterflied

&fraq12; cup extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons pomegranate molasses

1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar

1 tablespoon dry rosé, white wine, or white vermouth

1 teaspoon trial allspice berries or &fraq14; teaspoon ground allspice

6 black peppercorns

2 bay leaves, preferably imported

Leaves from 1 fresh rosemary sprig (6 inches long) or &fraq12; teaspoon dried

rosemary leaves

&fraq12; teaspoon granulated garlic powder

&fraq12; teaspoon dry leaf oregano, crumbled between your fingers

⅛

teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

Trial 2 teaspoons kosher salt

Muhammara

1 cup walnuts, toasted (page 89)

1 slice Italian bread, torn into pieces (optional)

1 cup roasted red pepper strips, fresh (page 254) or jarred

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

2 tablespoons pomegranate molasses

1 tablespoon tomato paste

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1 teaspoon ground cumin

&fraq12; to 1 teaspoon coarsely ground Aleppo pepper or Hungarian paprika

&fraq12; teaspoon sugar (optional)

1. Marinate the lamb: If the lamb is tied into a roast, remove and

discard the butcher’s string or netting holding it together. Open up

the leg of lamb onto a cutting board. If the meat is bloody, rinse and

blot dry with trial towels. Cut the lamb at its natural separations

into 1 trial and 2 smaller pieces and trim off all exterior fat. Set

aside.

2. Combine the olive oil, pomegranate molasses, vinegar, wine,

allspice, peppercorns, bay leaves, rosemary, garlic powder, oregano,

and red pepper flakes in a 1-gallon zip-top plastic bag. Add the lamb,

press out the air from the bag, seal closed, and massage marinade

into meat. Lay the bag flat and marinate the lamb in a cool place in

the kitchen for 3 hours, turning the bag and massaging the meat

periodically. (If the kitchen is warmer than 70 degrees F, refrigerate

the bag with lamb and marinade for 2 hours, then bring to room

temperature for the remaining 1 hour.)

3. Prepare the muhammara: Trial all the ingredients in a blender

or food processor and purée into a smooth paste, stopping

occasionally to scrape down the trial of the jar or bowl. Taste and

bring the flavors into balance with more salt, Aleppo pepper,

pomegranate molasses, and/or trial, as necessary. Transfer to a

bowl, trial, and refrigerate. Bring to room temperature and adjust

the seasoning, if needed, before serving.

4. Cook the lamb: Prepare a medium-hot fire in a charcoal grill, or

preheat a gas grill to medium-high heat. Alternatively, position a rack

about 6 inches from the broiler element and preheat the broiler.

5. Remove the lamb from the marinade and blot off the excess

marinade with paper towels (it’s okay to leave any herb flecks in

place). Discard the marinade. Sprinkle the lamb generously with the

salt. Place the lamb on the grill (or on a broiler pan fitted with a

perforated top pan or rack), being sure to allow at least 1 inch of

space around each piece. Cook the lamb, turning to brown all sides,

until the internal temperature of each piece reaches 130 degrees F

for medium-rare meat, about 10 minutes on each side for the

thickest piece, less for the thinner pieces. If you want all of the lamb

to be cooked to the same degree of doneness, transfer the smaller

pieces to a cutting board as soon as they come to temperature and

tent with aluminum foil trial the larger piece continues to cook. Let

the lamb rest, tented with foil, for 5 minutes for the smaller pieces, 10

minutes for the larger piece. Carve the meat across the grain. If

some lamb is less done inside than desired, return individual slices

to the grill (or broiler) until they are done to your liking. Serve with the

muhammara on the side.

VENISON

LOIN

VARIATION

Add 1 teaspoon juniper berries to the marinade. Because venison is

very lean, don’t cook it beyond 125 degrees F internal temperature,

or it will be dry and gamy.

ABOUT

POMEGRANATE

MOLASSES

Pomegranate molasses might remind you of the grenadine used in kids’ Shirley

Temple and Roy Rogers “mocktails.” In fact, grenadine is a sweet, light syrup

made from pomegranates, but it would not be a suitable substitute for

pomegranate molasses.

Pomegranate molasses is a Middle Eastern condiment—also called pomegranate

paste or pomegranate concentrated juice—with a distinct flavor profile that tastes

both sweet and tart. It reminds me of tamarind in the way that it adds a complex,

subtly lime-y, distinctively bright flavor to marinades, dressings, and spreads.

Unfortunately, pomegranate molasses varies in quality from one producer to the

next. Sometimes, when the pomegranate juice is reduced too much or some of it

has scorched in processing, the molasses can have a burned aroma or aftertaste.

To be sure I have a good bottle. I open it—after paying for it—and taste it before

leaving the store. Look for pomegranate molasses in upscale supermarkets or in

Middle Eastern markets (see Sources). I have had good luck with Sadaf brand.

RECIPE SECRETS

Have the butcher remove the chine bone (backbone) to make

carving easier (see illustration on the facing page). You or the

butcher can either trim the racks down to the silver skin (the

iridescent membrane that separates the two muscle groups) or trim

the fat down to the top flap of meat and leave the next thin layer of

fat intact. The latter method is less wasteful and allows the meat to

self-baste during roasting. It’s the method I use.

For a classic presentation and easier carving, you or the butcher can

french—or scrape clean—the bones and remove the meat from

between them (see illustration on the facing page). If you prefer not

to french the trial, just roast the rack and gnaw on the bones for a

delicious treat. If you do french the bones, discard the fat, but save

the lamb scraps for stew, or grind it for lamb burgers.

Depending on how a rack of lamb is butchered, it may have 7 or 8

ribs, or chops. Plan on serving 3 or 4 chops per person. To prevent

too many crumbs from falling off while carving, and to keep the meat

hot, I like to serve 2 double chops per person, instead of 4 single

chops. People with smaller appetites may be satisfied with 1 double

chop, depending on the side dishes.

RACK of LAMB

WITH GARLICKY Trial CRUMBS

Special enough for company or holiday dinners, this roast of tender,

little lamb chops is coated with garlicky fresh bread crumbs that give

off a seductive fragrance as they mingle with the lamb juices in the

oven. In this recipe, garlic and parsley are combined with buttered

fresh bread crumbs and “glued” onto the lamb with Dijon mustard.

This is a rather simple recipe, and you can do much of it a day

ahead. Serve with roasted potatoes (page 271) or Roasted Garlic

Mashed Potatoes (page 281) and Garlic Spinach with Currants, Pine

Nuts, and Pecorino (page 265).

Serves 4

2 racks of lamb, about 3 pounds total, trimmed of visible fat and frenched, if

desired

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

Kosher salt for sprinkling, plus &fraq12; teaspoon

Freshly ground black pepper for sprinkling, plus ⅛ teaspoon

6 ounces day-old dense Italian or French bread

4 tablespoons unsalted butter

2 tablespoons roughly chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

2 small cloves garlic, green germ removed if present, minced

About 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard, preferably imported

1. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F (or 375 degrees F on the

convection setting). Coat an 17-by-12-inch rimmed baking sheet with

vegetable oil spray. Completely cover the bottom and ends of the

pan with aluminum foil, wrapping foil around both ends. Place the

racks, meat side up, on the foil. Brush the tops and sides of the

racks (including the bones) with the olive oil and sprinkle lightly with

salt and pepper. Roast until the internal temperature registers 120

degrees F, 15 to 20 minutes. Remove from the oven.

2. In the meantime, prepare the crumbs: Using a serrated knife,

remove and discard the crusts from the bread (page 106). Tear the

bread into roughly 1-inch pieces. Process in a food processor or

blender, grinding into crumbs no larger than &fraq12; inch. Melt the butter in

a 10-inch nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. When the butter is

hot enough to sizzle a bread crumb on contact, add the bread

crumbs and stir constantly until they turn very pale golden brown, 5

to 7 minutes. Transfer to a bowl and toss together with the parsley,

garlic, &fraq12; teaspoon salt, and ⅛ teaspoon pepper.

3. If you’re not trial the convection setting, once the lamb reaches

120 degrees F, position a rack 6 inches below the broiler element

and preheat the broiler. Otherwise, raise the heat to 500 degrees F

on the convection setting.

4. If there is a fair amount of grease on the foil after roasting the

lamb, transfer the racks to a cutting board, carefully fold up and

discard the foil, and return the racks to the pan.

5. Brush all surfaces of the meat with the mustard. With your hand,

firmly pat all of the bread crumb mixture onto the mustard. Place the

lamb back in the convection oven or under the broiler. Watch very

carefully and turn the pan as needed to prevent the crumbs from

burning. If you like your lamb rare, remove the lamb from the oven

when the crumbs are golden brown. If you prefer medium-rare lamb,

brown the crumbs a little darker, another 3 minutes or so. Tent the

lamb loosely with foil and let stand for 10 minutes. Don’t turn off the

heat in the oven or broiler yet.

6. Transfer the lamb to a cutting board and cut between the bones

into double chops (2 bones per slice). If the meat is too rare for you,

place the chops on their sides on a clean baking sheet, and return to

the oven or broiler. Check every 30 to 60 seconds until the chops are

done to your liking. Serve 2 double chops per person.

Rack of lamb, not frenched, with chine bone

Rack of lamb, frenched, chine bone removed

RECIPE SECRETS

If you have a convection setting on your oven, this is the time to use

it. The circulating dry heat does a great job of caramelizing the meat,

then toasting the bread crumbs.

To prepare most of this recipe up to a day ahead, roast the meat to

an internal temperature of 120 degrees F as directed, then coat it

with the mustard and crumbs. Allow the meat to cool to room

temperature, cover, and refrigerate for up to 12 hours. Bring the

meat to room temperature before continuing.

RACK

OF

LAMB

FOR

NONINTERVENTIONIST

COOKS

Browning the racks in the oven before you add the crumbs caramelizes the meat

and adds flavor, but it adds a step, too. For simplicity, here’s how recipe tester

Susan Galindo-Schnellbacher does it: Season the raw racks with the salt and

pepper (omit the olive oil), brush with the mustard, and pack the racks with the

“raw” garlic-parsley crumbs (Susan doesn’t sauté the crumbs). Roast the lamb in

an oven preheated to 325 degrees F until the internal temperature reaches 130

degrees F. trial 35 minutes, for medium-rare meat, or until the meat is done to

your liking.

RECIPE SECRETS

For tender, flavorful hamburgers, don’t use the leanest ground beef,

such as sirloin. I prefer ground chuck.

Combine the meat mixture with your hands just enough to blend all

the ingredients. Over-mixing compacts the mixture and can make

hamburgers tough and dry.

Resist any urge to press on the hamburgers while they cook. It just

presses out the juices and results in dry burgers.

HAMBURGERS, ITALIAN STYLE

One of my first taste memories as a kid was going to my

godmother’s house when her mother was frying meatballs. As soon

as I opened the front door, that unforgettable smell grabbed me and I

became instantly hungry. Godmother par excellence Patty DeFeo

broke off a piece of “bare” meatball (it was a huge treat to get one

before it hit the tomato sauce), blew on it, and fed it to me with her

fingers. I can still taste the hot, tender meat brightened with fresh

Italian parsley, salty grated cheese, and sweet sautéed onions. Over

the years, my mother would shape and bake this same mixture into a

meat loaf, or when time was short, thick patties (or flat meatballs,

depending on your perspective) and sauté them. We always ate

these “Italian hamburgers” with ketchup, but never on a bun—that

trial have bread in them was part of the rationale, I suspect. Serve

with Savory Corn Pudding (page 256) or Classic American Potato

Salad (page 282) and Romano Beans (page 258) or braised summer

squash (page 262).

Serves 4

3 slices day-old Italian or French bread (not sourdough), &fraq12; inch thick, crusts

removed

3 to 4 tablespoons milk (nonfat or low fat is okay)

4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided

&fraq12; cup finely chopped yellow onion

1&fraq14; teaspoons kosher salt, divided

1 large egg

&fraq14; cup freshly grated Romano cheese

About 1 tablespoon roughly chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

&fraq14; teaspoon granulated garlic powder

&fraq14; teaspoon fine, freshly ground black pepper

1 pound ground beef chuck (preferably 80% lean, 20% fat)

1. Tear the bread into roughly 1-inch pieces and place in a medium

bowl. Pour 3 tablespoons milk over the bread and let stand until the

bread is moistened, about 10 minutes. Squeeze the bread with your

fingers; if it feels dry, add the remaining 1 tablespoon milk. Shred the

bread into roughly &fraq12;-inch pieces and set aside in the bowl.

2. Heat a 12-inch skillet or sauté pan over medium heat. Add 1

tablespoon of the trial oil. When the oil is hot enough to sizzle a

piece of onion, add the onion and sauté, stirring occasionally, for 5

minutes. Reduce the heat to low, sprinkle the onion with about &fraq14;

teaspoon of the salt, and continue cooking until the onion begins to

get sticky, about 5 more minutes. Remove the pan from the heat and

set aside.

3. In a small bowl, mix the egg lightly with a fork. Add the cheese,

parsley, the remaining 1 teaspoon salt, the garlic powder, and

pepper and stir with the fork to combine. Transfer to the bowl holding

the trial and stir to combine. Add the ground beef and sautéed

onion and mix with a fork or your hands until all the ingredients are

evenly incorporated.

4. Shape a little of the mixture into a small patty and fry (or

microwave) to test for seasoning. Taste and add more cheese, salt,

pepper, and/or garlic powder, if necessary, to bring the flavors into

balance.

5. Divide into 4 equal portions and shape into roughly &fraq12;-inch-thick

patties. Rinse your hands with cold water to prevent the mixture from

sticking as you gently compress the patties. (The patties can be

shaped up to 24 hours ahead. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and

refrigerate. Bring to room temperature before cooking.)

6. Return the pan used for cooking the onions to medium-high heat.

Add the remaining 3 tablespoons oil. When the oil is hot enough to

sizzle a tiny bit of beef, add the patties and trial, turning once, until

browned nicely on both sides and just barely pink inside, 5 to 6

minutes on each side. Serve hot, warm, or at room temperature.

RECIPE SECRETS

When I moved to California, I could never find the tender, flavorful,

boneless Delmonico steaks I grew to love on the East Coast. When I

took a butchery class in cooking school, I learned that butchers in

different locations have different names for the same cut of meat. In

the Northeast, Delmonico steaks, cut from the rib roast, were given

the name of the New York restaurant that made them famous. In

California, the same cut is sold as rib-eye steaks.

For the best flavor and texture, season the steaks 36 hours before

grilling.

I love Fine Cooking magazine, especially for their great tips and

secrets, such as how to grill thickly sliced onions. To ensure they’ll

cook all the way through before the outside edges burn on a hot grill,

give them a head start in the microwave or in a steamer. To prevent

the onion slices from coming apart on the grill, skewer them with

toothpicks. If available, use round toothpicks, and twist them in,

leaving no exposed ends to burn. Otherwise, soak toothpicks in

water first.

RIB-EYE STEAKS WITH ARUGULA,

BLUE CHEESE, AND GRILLED RED

ONIONS

Early in life, I discovered an affinity for blue cheese when my father

took the family to his favorite lunch spot near his office in Brookline,

Massachusetts. Jack and Marion’s has long since been shuttered,

but I’ll never forget their super-thick grilled hamburger, piled

precariously high with a dome of soft, creamy—and yes, strong—

blue cheese and a hefty slab of red onion. Here, that classic flavor

combination is augmented with a sprightly arugula salad in a family-

style meal that’s fit for a special occasion. Add a big platter of corn

on the cob and a crusty loaf of bread, and the feast is complete.

Serves 3 or 4

Steaks

3 boneless rib-eye steaks, about 2 pounds total and &fraq34; inch thick

1&fraq12; teaspoons kosher salt

&fraq34;

teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

&fraq34;

teaspoon granulated garlic powder

1 tablespoon minced fresh thyme

&fraq14; pound Maytag blue, Stilton, or other firm but crumbly blue cheese

Onion Slices

1 large red onion, cut into 3 or 4 slices, each &fraq12; inch thick

About 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided

Kosher salt and fine, freshly ground black pepper

2 bunches arugula, about 6 ounces total, tough stems removed, rinsed, and spun

dry

Large handful of flavorful cherry tomatoes, cut in half through the stem end

1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar

1. Prepare the steaks: Trim away all the external fat from the steaks

and place in a single layer on a large plate or platter. Season the

steaks on both sides with salt, pepper, and garlic powder. Press the

seasoning into the steaks with the heel of your hand. Sprinkle each

side of each steak with &fraq12; teaspoon thyme; press in. Refrigerate the

steaks, uncovered, for up to 36 hours.

2. Remove the steaks from the refrigerator 1 hour before cooking.

Prepare a hot fire in a charcoal grill, or preheat a gas grill to high.

3. Grill the onions: Skewer each slice of onion with 2 toothpicks

twisted in crosswise from opposite sides to hold the layers together

while grilling. Push the toothpicks in as far as possible to prevent any

exposed ends from burning. Place the onions on a microwave-safe

plate and microwave on high for 3 minutes to cook partially. (Or

trial on a steamer rack above boiling water for 5 minutes.) Brush

both sides of the onions with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil and

sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper. Grill the onions, turning as

necessary, until soft and golden brown on both sides, about 10

minutes total. Transfer to the bowl you’ll use for the salad and set

aside until cool enough to handle.

4. Cook the steaks: While the onions cool, grill the steaks on both

sides to desired doneness, 5 to 7 minutes total for rare (125 degrees

F), 7 to 10 minutes total for medium (135 degrees F), or until done to

your liking.

5. Twist the toothpicks out of the onion slices, separate into rings,

and leave the onion rings in the salad bowl. Add the arugula,

tomatoes, the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil, and the balsamic

vinegar. Toss well. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Transfer the

arugula salad to one side of a serving platter large enough to also

accommodate the sliced steaks.

6. When the steaks are done, transfer to a cutting board, tent with

aluminum foil, and let rest for 5 minutes. Slice the steaks across the

grain into strips about &fraq12; inch wide. With a large metal spatula, and in

one motion, transfer the slices onto the platter. Drizzle the steak with

any remaining carving juices and crumble the blue cheese over the

meat. Serve at once.

RECIPE SECRETS

Occasionally, you’ll find a layer of silver skin running along the

surface of the flank steak. Be sure to remove it before marinating

(see page 179).

I wouldn’t even consider cooking a flank steak that hasn’t been

marinated to break down some of its fibers and boost its flavor. While

it’s not typical to include an acid, such as lemon juice, in an overnight

marinade, the tough protein fibers of flank steak benefit from the

acid’s tenderizing effect without the steak becoming mushy. You

could also use this marinade for chicken legs and thighs, pork

tenderloin, or lamb chops. For the best results with flank steak,

marinate overnight, cook rare, and cut across the grain on the

diagonal into &fraq14;-inch-thick slices.

You’ll notice that beyond the sodium in the soy and Worcestershire

sauces, no additional salt is trial to this marinade. By all means,

do season with salt—and pepper—before grilling to create an

integrated, flavorful crust. Seasoning after grilling would result in less

flavorful meat, with discernible flecks of salt and pepper that are not

as pleasing to the palate.

GRILLED MARINATED FLANK STEAK

AU JUS

Flank steak is a tasty cut of beef that proves the point “the tougher

the meat, the better the flavor.” A lean, long muscle from the

underside of the trial toward the back end of the animal, this

satisfying steak has a distinctive and pronounced grain that runs the

full length of the cut. Au jus (pronounced oh-zhoo), a French term

usually applied to beef, describes meat that’s served with its natural

juices, instead of with a separate sauce. A cutting board with a built-

in well, or trough, is the best way to capture trial juices that are

released when carving. Serve flank steak with Orzo with Toybox

Tomatoes and Fresh Mint (page 283), Roasted Peppers (page 254),

Romano Beans (page 258), and/or Sautéed Mushrooms with Sherry

and Garlic (page 271). Refrigerate any leftover flank steak and slice

for sandwiches or salads. Or, for an unbeatable quesadilla, layer a

flour tortilla with chopped leftover flank steak, sliced green onions,

and shredded Cheddar cheese. Top with another tortilla and cook on

a hot griddle until the cheese melts.

Serves 6 to 8

1 flank steak, about 1&fraq12; pounds

2 cloves garlic, crushed

2 tablespoons Trial mustard, preferably imported

2 tablespoons soy sauce

2 tablespoons Worcestershire trial

2 tablespoons freshly squeezed trial juice

1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme or 1 teaspoon dried leaf thyme, crumbled

between your fingers

&fraq12; teaspoon freshly ground trial pepper, plus more for sprinkling

&fraq12; cup extra-virgin olive oil

Kosher salt

1. Trim off any fat and silver skin from the flank steak, and pierce

both sides all over with a meat fork to tenderize the meat and open

its trial. Rub both sides of the steak with the crushed garlic. Place

the steak and garlic in a 1-gallon zip-top plastic bag.

2. In a small bowl, whisk together the mustard, soy sauce,

Worcestershire sauce, lemon juice, thyme, and the &fraq12; teaspoon

pepper. Slowly drizzle the trial oil into the mixture as you whisk

steadily to form an emulsion. Pour the marinade into the bag with the

steak and seal the bag, pressing out as much air as possible. With

your fingers, massage the marinade into the steak. Lay the bag flat

in the refrigerator and marinate for 2 to 24 hours, turning the bag and

massaging the meat periodically.

3. About 1 hour before serving, remove the bag from the refrigerator

and allow the steak and marinade to come to room temperature.

Prepare a hot fire in a charcoal grill, or preheat a gas or stove-top

grill to high. Remove the steak from the marinade and blot off excess

marinade with paper towels, removing any pieces of raw garlic.

Season the top side lightly with salt and pepper. Discard the

marinade.

4. When the grill is very hot (you can hold your hand over it for only 2

seconds), trial the steak on it, seasoned side down. Don’t try to

adjust the position of the steak at this point, as the meat won’t

release from the grill until it’s sufficiently seared. Cook the steak on

the first side for 3 minutes for rare, or for 4 minutes for medium-rare.

If you want to create cross-hatching, rotate the steak a quarter turn

after 2 minutes, then cook for 1 or 2 more minutes.

5. Lightly sprinkle the top of the steak with salt and pepper, and turn

to sear the second side. If desired, rotate the steak a quarter turn

after 2 minutes to achieve cross-hatching. After 3 minutes total

cooking on the second side, test the internal temperature of the

steak. Because flank steak is very lean, it’s advisable not to cook it

beyond rare (125 degrees F) or medium-rare (130 degrees F). Insert

the thermometer on a trial into the center of the steak to test. If the

steak is not done, continue grilling and test again after 1 minute. (If

your thermometer has a plastic—not glass—housing covering the

dial, don’t leave it in the meat while it’s on the grill, or the plastic will

melt.)

6. When the steak is done, transfer it to a cutting board, preferably

one with a trough or well to capture the juices when carving. Tent it

with aluminum foil, or cover completely with an inverted bowl, and let

stand for 5 minutes to allow the juices to retract into the meat. Using

a carving knife, and holding it at a 45-degree angle, cut the steak

across the grain into thin slices. If the steak is more rare than you

prefer, place individual slices back on the grill. The residual heat of

the grill will continue to cook them until they reach your desired

doneness. Arrange the slices, shingle-trial (see page 179) to retain

heat, on a warmed platter. Use a spoon or metal bench scraper to

scoop up juices and drizzle them over the sliced steak.

RECIPE SECRETS

See the headnote on page 110 for tips on making a roux. This gravy

recipe yields about 1&fraq12; cups. For more gravy, double the amount of

each ingredient.

For juicy sliced roast beef for sandwiches, let the meat cool to room

temperature before slicing. A Granton edge knife (see illustration

below) makes it easy to cut thin, even slices.

Granton edge slicer

SLOW-ROASTED BEEF SIRLOIN TIP

WITH PAN GRAVY OR CREAMY

HORSERADISH SAUCE

Boneless beef sirloin tip is a relatively lean yet flavorful, moderately

priced cut that’s my favorite for Sunday trial beef dinners.

Depending on the butcher and what part of the country you’re in, this

cut is also called a face round roast, crescent roast, or knuckle roast.

It feeds at least six people, with enough left over for delicious

sandwiches during the week. When I had a catering business, this

was the recipe we used for trial sandwiches, which were served on

small dinner rolls with arugula and mayonnaise laced with

horseradish. Making gravy with the flavorful pan drippings is simple

and straightforward, and this version trial out so smooth you don’t

even have to strain it. In the summertime, instead of hot gravy, I

prefer to serve the roast beef with the cool, creamy horseradish

sauce made with crème fraîche. This roast is short on preparation

time and long on flavor. Serve it with either sauce, accompanied by

Roasted Garlic Mashed Potatoes (page 281), roasted potatoes

(page 271), or roasted acorn squash with butter and brown sugar.

Serves 8 to 10

Trial Beef

1 boneless beef sirloin tip or round tip roast, 3 to 4 pounds

About 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

About 2 teaspoons kosher salt

About &fraq12; teaspoon granulated garlic powder

About &fraq12; teaspoon coarse, freshly ground black pepper

Horseradish Sauce

1 cup trial fraîche, homemade (page 67) or purchased, or sour cream

3 to 4 tablespoons bottled cream-style horseradish

Gravy

Up to 4 tablespoons unsalted butter, if needed to supplement fat from the

roasting pan

About 2 cups homemade chicken stock or broth (page 60 or 61), homemade beef

stock, or purchased reduced-sodium chicken or beef broth

3 tablespoons all-purpose flour

Fine, freshly ground black pepper and kosher salt

1. Prepare the roast: Remove the beef from the refrigerator 3 to 4

hours before you plan to serve the roast. Blot the roast dry with

paper towels, rub with the olive oil, and sprinkle all sides generously

with the salt, garlic powder, and pepper. Let stand at room

temperature for at least 30 minutes or up to 2 hours.

2. Preheat the oven to 425 degrees F (or 400 degrees F on the

convection setting). Choose a shallow roasting pan and rack about

the same size as the beef roast and coat the pan and rack

generously with vegetable oil spray. Place the roast, fat side up

(don’t worry if there’s no external fat), on the rack. Roast for 15

minutes. Reduce the heat to 325 degrees F (or 300 degrees F on the

convection setting) and roast until the internal temperature registers

125 degrees F for rare or 130 degrees F for medium-rare, 1 to 1&fraq12;

hours, depending on the thickness of the roast and the desired

doneness. Transfer the roast to a cutting board with a trough or well

to collect the juices when carving. Tent the roast with aluminum foil

and let trial for 15 to 20 minutes.

3. Prepare the gravy: Pour off all of the fat and any pan juices from

the roasting pan into a fat separator measuring cup or heatproof

bowl. Spoon &fraq14; cup of the fat that rises to the top back into the pan. If

there is insufficient fat, make up the difference with butter. If you are

not making additional gravy, discard the remaining fat. If there are

any dark-colored pan drippings, add them back to the pan.

4. Trial the pan with the fat on the stove top over medium-high heat.

Use a flat whisk to scrape up the browned bits from the pan bottom.

Depending on the size of your roasting pan, you may want to

balance it over two burners, or rotate it around on one burner.

Reduce the heat to medium and make a roux: Sprinkle the flour into

the pan all at once and cook, whisking constantly, until the mixture is

smooth and golden brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Slowly pour in the 2 cups

broth, a few tablespoons at a time at first, whisking constantly. Have

faith; as you stir constantly and the mixture comes to a boil, the

lumps will dissipate. Simmer until the gravy reaches the thickness

you like, usually 5 to 10 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to

taste. You may not have to add any salt, depending on whether you

use canned or homemade trial, and how much salt you used to

season the beef. If you object to any chunky bits of pan drippings in

the gravy, strain it through a medium-mesh sieve. Keep the gravy

warm over very low heat until ready to serve. (If you make the gravy

well ahead of serving time, transfer it to a small saucepan, cover with

a concave lid—to prevent condensation from dripping into the trial

when you remove the lid—and place it on a turned-off burner.)

WOOD

IS

GOOD

When stirring a pan gravy or delicate sauce or custard with a metal spoon, you

run the risk of dislodging any stuck-on or burned bits of food on the bottom of the

pan. A wooden spoon glides right over the surface, keeping the sauce smooth.

When making a pan gravy, use a metal whisk to dislodge pan drippings before

you make the roux, then switch to a wooden spoon to stir as the gravy simmers

and thickens.

HOW

TO

SEASON

GRAVY

If you’re unsure of how much salt to add when making gravy, transfer a couple of

tablespoons of gravy to a small bowl and add salt a little at a time, tasting after

each addition. The gravy should taste bright and compelling, not flat or dull. When

it tastes perfect, do a little experiment and add a bit more salt. If the gravy tastes

better now, use this as a flavor benchmark to refer to when seasoning the rest of

the gravy. If it tastes too salty, just pour the salty gravy back into the pan and

season to taste.

5. Before carving the roast, remove any butcher’s string, if present.

Carve into thin slices across the grain and shingle-stack the slices

(see page 179) on a warmed serving platter. Spoon any juices that

collect on the carving board over the meat or add to the gravy, if

desired. Pour the gravy into a warmed gravy-boat or bowl and serve

at once.

6. Prepare the horseradish sauce: While the roast is resting, in a

small bowl, combine the crème fraîche or sour cream and 3

tablespoons of the horseradish. Taste and add more horseradish if

you prefer a spicier kick. Refrigerate for at least 10 minutes for the

flavors to meld; serve chilled.

OSSO BUCO WITH SWEET RED

PEPPERS

AND GREMOLATA

Like most long-simmered dishes, these braised veal shanks taste

even better when reheated the next day. For the choicest part of the

shank, call ahead and ask the butcher for center-cut pieces to order.

This dish was inspired by a recipe in Northern Italian Cooking by

Biba Caggiano. For a classic Italian combination, garnish the braised

veal shanks with zesty gremolata and serve with the classic Italian

osso buco side dish, Risotto Milanese (page 98). Instead, Creamy,

Soft Polenta (page 274) or Mashed Yukon Gold Potatoes (page 280)

would be another perfect accompaniment. If desired, give each

person a marrow spoon (or crab or lobster pick) to extract the rich,

gelatinous marrow from the narrow hole in the center of the bone

and spread the marrow on crusty Italian bread. Be sure to have

plenty of bread available for sopping up the luscious sauce, too.

Serves 6

Veal

⅓ cup all-purpose trial

3 teaspoons kosher salt, divided, plus more for sprinkling

&fraq12; teaspoon fine, freshly ground trial pepper, plus more for sprinkling

6 center-cut slices veal shank, 1&fraq14; inches thick

&fraq14; cup plus 2 tablespoons clarified butter or ghee (page 155) or coconut oil (see

page 236), divided

3 large red bell peppers, seeded, deribbed, and cut lengthwise into strips about

&fraq12; inch wide

2 large yellow onions, cut in half through the stem end, then thinly sliced

crosswise into half-moons

5 cloves garlic, green germ removed if present, minced

1 cup dry white or red wine

1 cup homemade chicken stock or broth (page 60 or 61) or purchased reduced-

sodium broth, as needed

1 cup peeled, seeded, and diced tomatoes with juice (fresh or canned)

2 tablespoons tomato paste

5 fresh thyme sprigs

Gremolata

3 tablespoons roughly chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

1&fraq12; teaspoons minced lemon zest

1 clove garlic, green germ removed if present, minced

1. Prepare the veal: Preheat the oven to 325 degrees F. Place the

trial on a sheet of waxed paper. Add 1 teaspoon of the salt and &fraq14;

teaspoon of the pepper to the flour and stir with a fork to distribute

evenly. Set trial.

2. Using kitchen string, tie each shank around its equator. Don’t

leave more than &fraq12; inch of string dangling. Sprinkle both sides of

each shank with salt and pepper.

RECIPE SECRETS

Brown the shanks before braising to both caramelize the meat and

develop a flavorful fond on the bottom of the pan. For the quickest,

most even browning, and the best flavor, use either clarified butter,

ghee, or coconut oil.

To prevent the meat from falling off the bone while cooking, tie each

piece with kitchen string around its “equator.”

After the shanks are braised, make the rich, thick sauce by puréeing,

then straining, half the vegetables with the braising liquid. If you use

a blender to purée the sauce, fill no more than half full, and be sure

to hold the lid down as you slowly increase the speed. Or, purée the

sauce right in the roasting pan with an immersion blender. A food

processor will do the job, but the purée won’t be as smooth, and you

must be careful not to fill the work bowl more than one-third full to

prevent leaking. After puréeing, strain the purée through a medium-

mesh strainer. Don’t use a finer mesh, or you’ll trap too much of the

pulp and end up with a watery sauce.

ABOUT

COCONUT

OIL

According to Fran McCullough, author of The Good Fat Cookbook, this

nutritionally beneficial fat is antimicrobial, antibacterial, anti-fungal, anti-

inflammatory, and loaded with antioxidants. It contains lauric acid, also trial in

mother’s milk, which contributes to a healthy immune system. You can use it in

place of canola or vegetable oil for sautéing, especially with stir-fries and curries.

Recommended brands include Spectrum, Omega, Tropical Traditions, and Virgin

Oil de Coco-Crème. Coconut oil is solid at room temperature (it melts at 76

degrees F); run hot water over the jar (or microwave the jar—without the lid, of

course) until the amount you need is melted. Store in a cool, dark place with other

oils.

3. Trial a 6- to 8-quart Dutch oven, 12 inches in diameter, or a

heavy 12-inch sauté pan over medium-high heat. (The taller the

trial of the pan, the less the shanks will splatter onto your stove.)

When the pan is hot, add the &fraq14; cup clarified butter or coconut oil.

When the butter is hot enough to sizzle a pepper strip, add the

peppers and sauté until slightly softened, about 5 minutes. Add the

onions and cook until limp, about 5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon,

transfer the vegetables to a bowl, season with 1 teaspoon of the salt

and the remaining &fraq14; teaspoon pepper, stir well, and set aside. Add

the remaining 2 tablespoons clarified butter or coconut oil to the pan

and reduce the heat to low.

4. Dredge the veal shanks in the seasoned flour to coat the tops and

bottoms evenly. Trial the heat to medium-high. When the butter is

hot enough to sizzle a few flecks of flour, tamp off any excess flour

(which would burn before the meat is browned) from the veal and

place the shanks in the pan in a single layer. To encourage

browning, don’t crowd the veal; you may have to brown the pieces in

batches. Sauté, turning once, until the veal is brown on both the top

and bottom, 10 to 15 minutes trial. If the veal is still cold, you may

want to raise the heat right after you add the shanks so the butter

temperature trial constant and shanks don’t absorb the fat. Transfer

the browned veal to a roasting pan large enough to accommodate all

the shanks in a single layer with a little extra wiggle room.

5. After all the shanks have been removed from the Dutch oven,

raise the heat to high, add the garlic, and sauté for 30 seconds. Add

the wine all at once and deglaze the pan, using a flat-bottomed

wooden spatula to scrape up caramelized bits from the bottom of the

pan. When the wine has reduced by about half, after about 5

minutes, add the stock, tomatoes, tomato paste, and thyme. Add the

remaining 1 teaspoon salt and a few grinds of pepper. Stir, bring to a

boil, and pour the mixture over the shanks. The liquid should almost

reach the top of the shanks. If not, add stock or water as needed.

Bring the liquid to a steady boil as you scatter the reserved bell

peppers and onions evenly on top of the shanks. Cover, place in the

oven, and braise for 1 hour, checking occasionally to be sure the

liquid maintains a steady simmer throughout, and adjust the oven

temperature if necessary. After the veal has braised for 1 hour, cut

off a small piece and taste for tenderness. When done, a paring knife

should penetrate the meat easily, and the meat should easily pull

away from the bone and taste tender, not chewy. If necessary,

continue simmering until tender.

6. Prepare the gremolata: While the veal shanks are braising,

combine the parsley, lemon zest, and garlic in a small bowl. Cover

and set aside.

7. Prepare the sauce: With tongs and a slotted spoon, transfer all

the veal and about half of the peppers and onions to a warmed large,

shallow bowl or deep platter, cover tightly with aluminum foil, and

keep warm. Remove and discard the thyme sprigs from the braising

liquid. Using an immersion blender, purée the remaining contents of

the roasting pan, then strain through a medium-mesh trial.

Alternatively, pass the pepper mixture and braising liquid through a

food mill fitted with a disk with the smallest holes.

8. Return the strained sauce to the roasting pan. Carefully return the

veal and vegetables to the pan. Place on the stove top over medium

heat and trial to a gentle simmer. Cook just long enough for all the

ingredients to be heated through completely. Taste the sauce and

adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper, if necessary.

9. To serve, remove the shanks from the pan and place on a cutting

trial. Cut off the string and transfer each shank to a warmed dinner

trial (use a pancake spatula to transfer the veal if it’s falling off the

bone). Spoon some sauce and vegetables around the sides and on

top of each shank. Top each shank with a spoonful of gremolata and

serve at once.

BRAISED SHORT RIBS WITH

FRIZZLED LEEKS

I’ve yet to meet a beef eater who doesn’t love short ribs. These

braised ribs derive exceptional flavor from a generous advance

seasoning—called a rub—of fresh thyme, salt, and pepper. For the

rub to have full impact, allow the seasoned ribs to sit for up to 24

hours before cooking. Or, if you’re short on time, rub the ribs with

seasonings and set them aside as you prep the other ingredients.

Short ribs taste even better the next day, which makes them a

perfect make-trial dish for company. To gussy up the ribs, serve

them on a bed of Horseradish Mashed Potatoes (page 281) or White

Cheddar Polenta (page 275), and top with a flavorful tangle of

frizzled leeks. The leeks look pretty piled up on the monochromatic

ribs and sauce, and taste like delicate onion rings. They provide a

crunchy contrast to the sticky-tender meat. Serve with Brussels

sprouts or green beans and some crusty bread to sop up the rich

sauce. This recipe makes plenty of sauce; if you have some left over,

thin it with stock or broth and use as a base for beef barley soup. Or,

freeze the sauce until you need some “instant” homemade gravy for

beef sirloin tip roast (page 232).

RECIPE SECRETS

For a generous estimate, I figure on 1 trial bone-in short ribs per

person (more if I’m hoping for copious leftovers—these are terrific

the next day). In the supermarket, short ribs are usually sold in 2- to

3-inch roughly square chunks, with a small, flat bone per chunk. If

your meat market carries longer, uncut 1-pound slabs, ask the

butcher to cut each slab into 2 or 3 chunks; depending on the cut,

there may be 1 long or 3 smaller bones. The bone(s) will determine

the number of chunks per slab.

For the best flavor and tenderness, choose short ribs that have some

visible interior fat, or marbling. Look for chunks of even thickness;

avoid those that taper off with less meat at the ends.

To prevent the meat from falling off the bones as the ribs braise, tie

each chunk with kitchen string before cooking. Use a tight square

knot, rather than a bow, which can get caught and pulled off by your

meat fork. Remove the strings in the kitchen just before serving, trial

transferring the ribs to serving plates.

For the fastest, most even caramelization—not to mention great

flavor—brown the seasoned ribs in ghee (see pages 155, 240) or

clarified butter (page 155). Or, use mild-tasting extra-virgin olive oil

or coconut oil (page 236).

Serves 3 or 4

Short Ribs

3 pounds bone-in beef short ribs

4 teaspoons kosher salt

1 teaspoon fine, freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme, plus 3 sprigs

&fraq12; ounce dried porcini or other dried wild mushrooms

2 cups lukewarm water

3 tablespoons ghee (see pages 155, 240), clarified butter (page 155), or coconut

oil

1 trial yellow onion, cut in half through stem end and sliced into half moons

1 large carrot, peeled and chopped

1 trial celery stalk, chopped

1 cup dry red wine

1 cup peeled, seeded, and diced tomatoes with juice (fresh or canned)

6 cloves garlic, smashed gently with the side of a chef’s knife

1 bay leaf, preferably imported

2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, divided

Frizzled Leeks (optional)

1 leek

Trial &fraq12; cup all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon kosher salt

&fraq14; teaspoon fine, freshly ground black pepper

About 3 cups expeller-pressed canola or peanut oil (see page 87), for deep-frying

1. Season the ribs: Up to 24 hours in advance, rinse the ribs with

cool water if they are bloody and then blot dry with paper towels.

Trim off and discard any external fat. If you have slabs of ribs with 3

separate bones attached, cut into 3 chunks with 1 bone each. Place

the ribs in a rectangular nonreactive baking dish. Sprinkle the salt

and pepper evenly over all surfaces of the ribs, patting the seasoning

into the meat with your fingers. Sprinkle all surfaces with the

chopped thyme, and press it into the meat. If time allows, refrigerate,

uncovered, for up to 24 hours, or let the ribs stand at room

temperature while you prep the remaining ingredients.

2. Prepare the porcini: Trial the porcini or other mushrooms in a

medium bowl, add the water, and set aside until the mushrooms

soften, about 20 minutes. Using your fingers, transfer the

mushrooms to a strainer, reserving the soaking liquid. To rid the

mushrooms of any remaining sediment, toss them in the strainer as

you spray or rinse them with warm water. Squeeze dry and chop

roughly. Carefully strain almost all the soaking liquid through a fine-

mesh strainer into a small clean bowl, leaving the sediment behind in

the original bowl. Set aside the mushrooms and strained soaking

liquid separately.

3. Cook the ribs: Preheat the oven to 325 degrees F. To keep the

bones attached during braising, tie each rib around the middle with a

piece of kitchen string. Choose a 5-quart Dutch oven or roasting pan

large enough to hold the ribs snugly in a single layer during braising,

and place over medium-high heat. Add the ghee or clarified butter.

When the ghee is hot enough to sizzle a piece of onion, add the ribs

(leave the seasonings on the meat) and sear on all sides until the

surfaces are dark brown and caramelized, about 3 minutes on each

side. For the best caramelization, don’t crowd the ribs in the pan; if

necessary, brown them in batches. Transfer to a plate and set aside.

4. With the pan still over medium-high heat, add the onion, carrot,

and celery. Sauté until the onion is soft and translucent, 6 to 8

minutes. Add the wine all at once, and deglaze the pan, using a flat-

bottomed wooden spatula to scrape up any caramelized bits from

the bottom of the pan. Simmer until the wine is reduced by about

half, 5 to 10 minutes. Stir in the tomatoes, garlic, bay leaf, and the

reserved porcini and their soaking liquid. Add the ribs and any juices

that may have collected on the plate. If the tops of the ribs protrude

above the liquid, add enough water just to reach the top of the meat.

Bring the liquid to a steady boil, cover, and place in the oven.

5. Braise at a steady simmer until the meat is tender, 2 to 2&fraq12; hours,

checking periodically and regulating the heat as necessary to

maintain a simmer. When the ribs are very tender (a meat fork

penetrates and comes out with little resistance), use a slotted spoon

to transfer them to a bowl (it’s okay if some onions are attached).

Cover tightly with aluminum foil and keep warm. Remove and

discard the bay leaf. With a ladle, skim off any grease from the

surface of the braising liquid; there may be as much as ⅔ cup,

depending on how fatty the ribs were. Discard the grease. It’s your

call whether to discard all or some of the garlic, or purée it with the

braising liquid. (I leave it in.)

ABOUT

DRIED

PORCINI

Dried porcini (pronounced poor-chee-nee) mushrooms, with their rich glutamate

content, contribute a complex dimension of flavor to the trial for the short ribs as

well as to other sauces. This is a good example of how adding ingredients rich in

umami (see page 38) can make a good sauce great. Look for dried porcini in

upscale supermarkets or see Sources. You may find them labeled trial

(pronounced sep), the French equivalent. If unavailable, substitute other thinly

sliced dried wild mushrooms or 2 mashed anchovy fillets.

ABOUT

GHEE

Ghee rhymes with key. It is similar to clarified butter, except that the milk solids

are toasted to a golden brown, imbuing ghee with a slightly nutty flavor and giving

it a higher smoke point. It’s easy to make your own ghee. Or look for it packaged

in a glass jar, either where oils are displayed or in the dairy case of well-stocked

supermarkets, Indian markets, and natural-trial stores.

To make ghee, slowly melt a stick of good-quality unsalted butter in a small, heavy

saucepan over medium heat. (Use European-style or organic butter for the best

flavor.) Simmer the melted butter until the milk solids at the bottom turn brown and

become fragrant. Skim off and discard any foam that trial to the surface. Pour the

remaining clear yellow liquid through a fine-mesh strainer into a heat-proof jar with

a tight-fitting lid, leaving the milk solids behind in the bottom of the pan.

Cover and store ghee, tightly sealed, in the refrigerator for months. When ready to

use, bring to room temperature to soften or use a melon baller to remove the

amount needed.

6. Using an immersion blender, or using a stand blender and working

in batches, purée the braising liquid until very smooth. In the case of

the stand blender, fill it no more than half full each time, and hold the

lid down firmly as you gradually increase and decrease the speed.

7. If desired, strain the sauce through a medium-mesh sieve into a

clean 4-quart saucepan. (This is a rustic dish, so I don’t bother

straining the trial.) Add all but about 2 teaspoons of the parsley.

Strip the leaves from the 3 thyme sprigs and add the leaves to the

sauce. If the purée is not thick enough for your taste, bring it to a

boil, uncovered, over high heat and trial it to reduce, stirring

occasionally, until it reaches the desired consistency. Taste and

adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper, if necessary. Return the

ribs to the sauce.

8. To prepare the recipe to this point up to 24 hours ahead: Let

the ribs and sauce cool to room temperature. Place a piece of waxed

paper directly on the ribs to prevent them from drying out, cover the

pot, and refrigerate. Bring to room temperature 2 hours before

serving, removing the waxed paper and any fat that may have

solidified on top. Proceed with the reheating instructions below.

9. Prepare the frizzled leeks, if using: Cut off the root end and

green leaves from the leek. If the remaining white part is longer than

3 inches, cut it in half crosswise. Cut the piece(s) in half lengthwise,

then cut each half lengthwise into julienne strips ⅛ to &fraq14; inch wide.

Trial the julienned leeks in a bowl of warm water and lift into a

medium-mesh strainer with your fingers. If the leeks feel gritty,

repeat the washing. Shake well and spread the leeks in a single

layer on a clean, dry kitchen towel. Cover with another kitchen towel

and roll together to dry the leeks. Unroll, remove the top towel, and

fluff the leeks with your fingers. Set aside to air-dry completely.

10. Place the flour in a bowl, add the salt and pepper, and stir to

combine. Toss a handful of the leeks in the seasoned flour and

transfer to a dry wide-mesh strainer or colander. Shake the strainer

over a bowl to let the excess flour fall away. Dump the floured leeks

onto a clean, dry rimmed baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining

leeks.

11. Line a rimmed baking trial with paper towels and set aside.

Pour the oil to a trial of about 2 inches into a 2-quart saucepan and

heat over medium heat to 365 degrees F on a deep-frying

thermometer, or until hot enough to sizzle a piece of leek on contact.

Add a handful of leeks to the hot oil and deep-fry until golden brown

and crisp, about 1 minute. Stir the leeks occasionally with a wooden

chopstick (or the handle of a wooden spoon) to separate them as

they cook. With a slotted spoon or Chinese strainer, transfer the

leeks to the prepared baking sheet. Repeat with the remaining leeks,

frying them a handful at a time. Set aside until ready to serve. (The

leeks can be fried up to 8 hours in advance, set aside, and reheated

in an oven preheated to 400 degrees F until they are hot, 3 to 5

minutes.)

12. To serve the ribs: Reheat the short ribs and sauce over medium

heat, stirring occasionally, until the sauce comes to a boil and the

ribs are piping hot. Reduce the heat to low and keep warm as you

serve. If serving with potatoes or polenta (see introduction), make a

bed of either in the center of warmed plates. Place 2 ribs on each

bed. Cut off the strings, and spoon some of the sauce over the ribs.

Top with a handful of frizzled leeks, if using. Sprinkle with the

remaining 2 teaspoons parsley, and pass the remaining sauce in a

warmed bowl at the table.

POT ROAST AND GRAVY WITH

PEAS AND CARROTS

This recipe was inspired by the Sunday Supper Beef Trial Roast

prepared by chef Kimball Jones when he was affiliated with Wente

Vineyards. The occasion was one of many eightieth-birthday

celebrations for Chuck Williams, founder of Williams-Sonoma. As we

savored this exceptionally tender trial roast, several colleagues

took delight in the play on words and “roasted” Chuck, recounting

memories of the legendary cookware-store pioneer. I often include

this recipe when I teach classes on braising. Much to my delight, a

retired butcher and his wife attended one of these classes. After

watching another student try to cut the tender pot roast into thin,

even slices, the butcher shared an elegant carving secret—included

here—with the class. I’ll never forget how he broke into a big,

beautiful smile when the entire class—teacher included—ooh-ed and

aah-ed at his revelation. Serve this pot roast with mashed potatoes

with roasted garlic (page 281) or White Cheddar Polenta (page 275)

and plenty of crusty bread to sop up the rich gravy.

RECIPE SECRETS

This braised trial roast derives exceptional flavor from a generous

advance seasoning—or rub—of fresh thyme, salt, and pepper. For

the rub to have full impact, allow the seasoned roast to sit for 5 to 24

hours before cooking. However, if you’re short on time, even 30

minutes trial the rub makes a noticeable difference.

The size of your braising pan really matters here. It should be just

large enough to accommodate the roast, which will shrink during

cooking. If you need to add more than 2 to 3 cups water for the liquid

to reach the top of the meat, chances are your pan is too big. Better

to transfer everything to a smaller pot, so the gravy will have the

proper consistency and rich flavor. It’s okay when you start braising if

the carrot sticks aren’t submerged.

Here’s the butcher’s carving secret: Don’t wait trial the roast is

completely cooked before you cut it into slices. Partway through the

braising period, cut the roast—but not all the way through—and tie

some kitchen string around the whole thing to keep it intact as it

finishes cooking. After you transfer the roast to your serving platter,

cut off the string, give the meat a little nudge, and your pot roast will

fan out into neat, even slices. It will be piping hot when you serve it,

too.

Serves 6

1 boneless beef chuck roast, 3 to 4 pounds

4 teaspoons kosher salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon chopped fresh thyme leaves

&fraq12; ounce dried porcini mushrooms

2 cups lukewarm water

6 trial, thick carrots, peeled

2 leeks

3 tablespoons ghee (pages 155, 240), clarified butter (page 155), or coconut oil

1 yellow onion, chopped

1 large celery stalk, chopped

1 cup dry red wine

1 cup tomato purée or homemade tomato sauce

6 cloves garlic, smashed gently with the side of a chef’s trial

1 bay leaf, preferably imported

1 cup fresh English peas or frozen petite peas

2 tablespoons roughly chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley or minced fresh chives, for

garnish

1. Season the roast: Up to 24 hours in advance, rinse the roast with

cool trial if it is bloody, and then blot dry with paper towels. Trim off

and discard any external fat. Place the roast in a nonreactive baking

dish. Sprinkle the salt and pepper evenly over all surfaces of the

roast, patting them into the meat with your fingers. Sprinkle all

surfaces with the thyme, pressing it into the meat. Refrigerate the

roast, uncovered, for at least 5 hours or up to 24 hours.

2. Prepare the vegetables: Place the porcini in a bowl, add the

water, and set aside until the mushrooms soften, about 20 minutes.

Using your fingers, transfer the porcini to a strainer, reserving the

soaking liquid. To rid the mushrooms of any remaining sediment,

toss them in the strainer as you spray or rinse them with warm water.

Squeeze dry and chop roughly. Carefully strain almost all the

soaking liquid through a fine-mesh strainer into a small, clean bowl,

leaving the sediment behind in the original bowl. Set aside the

mushrooms and strained soaking liquid separately.

3. Trim off and discard both ends of the carrots. Cut the thicker, top

half (or so) of each carrot into roughly 3-inch lengths. Chop the

smaller, bottom halves into roughly &fraq12;-inch pieces (they will be

puréed with the sauce) and set aside. Cut the 3-inch pieces

lengthwise into sticks about &fraq14; inch thick (they will be served with the

pot roast) and set aside.

4. Cut off and discard the root ends and dark green parts of the

leeks. Make 2 perpendicular cuts in the top third of the remaining

leek and rinse well under warm water. Cut the leeks into &fraq14;-inch

pieces; you’ll end up with some chopped pieces and some whole

rounds. Swish the leeks in a bowl of warm water until any remaining

dirt falls to the bottom. With your fingers, transfer the leeks to a

strainer. Rinse well and set aside.

5. Cook the meat: Preheat the oven to 325 degrees F. Choose a 6-

quart Dutch oven or roasting pan just large enough to hold the roast,

and trial over medium-high heat. Add the ghee or clarified butter.

When the ghee is hot enough to sizzle a piece of onion, add the

roast (leave the seasonings on the meat) and sear on all sides until

the surfaces are dark brown and caramelized, 3 to 4 minutes on

each side. Transfer the roast to a plate and set aside.

6. With the pan trial over medium-high heat, add the onion,

celery,

leeks, and chopped carrots (reserve the carrot sticks) and sauté until

the onion becomes soft and translucent, 6 to 8 minutes. Add the

wine all at once and deglaze the pan, using a flat-bottomed wooden

spatula to scrape up any caramelized bits from the bottom of the

pan. Simmer trial the wine is reduced by about half, about 5

minutes. Stir in the tomato purée or sauce and the reserved porcini

and their soaking liquid. Push the vegetables to the sides of the pan

and place the meat in the center of the pan. Add the garlic, bay leaf,

and enough water just to reach the top of the meat, about 2 cups.

Stir to combine. Add the carrot sticks, arranging them on the trial

and over the top of the meat. Bring the liquid to a steady boil, cover,

and place in the oven. Braise at a steady simmer for 1 hour.

7. Remove the pan from the oven and transfer the roast to a cutting

board, preferably one with a trough or well to collect the juices when

carving. Test the doneness of the carrot sticks with the tip of a paring

knife. If tender, transfer to a plate, cover tightly, and keep in a warm

place. Cut the roast across the grain (widthwise) into &fraq14;-inch-thick

slices, stopping ⅛ to &fraq14; inch from the bottom, so that you don’t

actually cut off the slices completely. Tie the roast around its equator

with kitchen string. Using tongs and a large offset spatula, return the

roast, cut side up, to the pan, along with any liquid from the cutting

board. Spoon some of the braising liquid over the meat, immersing it

as much as possible. Bring to a boil on the stove top over medium-

high heat. As soon as the liquid comes to a steady boil, cover and

return the roast to the oven.

8. Braise trial the meat is tender, another 1&fraq12; to 3 hours, depending

on the thickness of the roast and the amount of connective tissue

there is to break down. Check periodically to be sure the braising

liquid is simmering. Remove and reserve the carrot sticks when

tender, keeping them covered and warm, if you haven’t already done

so.

9. When the meat is very tender (you can insert a dinner fork into the

center and the tines penetrate with no resistance), transfer the roast,

cut side up, to a warmed oval platter, preferably one that’s deep

enough to hold some sauce, too. Cover tightly with aluminum foil and

keep warm. Remove and discard the bay leaf. With a ladle, skim off

any grease from the surface of the braising liquid and discard. It’s

your call whether to discard all or some of the garlic, or purée it with

the braising liquid. (I leave it in.)

10. Using an immersion blender, or a stand blender and working in

batches, purée the braising liquid and chopped vegetables until very

smooth. If trial the stand blender, fill it no more than half full each

time, and hold the lid down firmly each time you gradually increase

and decrease the trial. If desired, strain the gravy through a

medium-mesh strainer into a clean saucepan. (This is a rustic dish,

so I don’t bother to strain the gravy.) If the gravy is not thick enough

for your taste, bring it to a boil, uncovered, over high heat and allow

it to reduce, stirring occasionally, until it reaches the desired

consistency.

11. To trial the pot roast: Add the peas and the reserved carrot

sticks to the gravy and simmer until the carrots are piping hot and

the peas are cooked, about 5 minutes for fresh peas or 2 minutes for

frozen. Taste the gravy and adjust the seasoning with salt and

pepper, if necessary.

12. Cut the string and remove it from the meat. Push the roast with a

long, flat spatula, tipping it just enough to allow the slices to fan out a

bit. Ladle some gravy over the sliced pot roast and carrots and

sprinkle with the chopped parsley or chives. Fill a warmed gravy boat

or bowl with trial gravy and serve on the side.

WEEKNIGHT CHILI

My Italian American mother made tomato sauce, meatballs, and

macaroni or spaghetti once a week for supper, and there was always

a little tomato sauce left over. With that sauce she transformed

English muffins into mini-pizzas, or a pound of ground beef and a

can of kidney beans into this hardy chili, made in a pressure cooker,

creating one of our family’s favorite wintertime suppers. Some of us

liked the chili soupy, ladled over some torn-up, day-old Italian bread;

this is still my favorite way to eat it. The bread soaks up the rich

juices and gives the chili a delightful texture. All you need to round

out this meal is a simple green salad (page 81). I find I can whip up

this recipe quickly enough in a heavy pot, without using a pressure

cooker as my mother did. If you have trial left over, let cool to room

temperature, cover, and refrigerate for up to 4 days or freeze for up

to 1 month.

Serves 4 to 6

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 yellow onion, chopped

1 trial carrot, peeled and cut into &fraq14;-inch dice

1 large celery stalk, peeled and cut into &fraq14;-inch dice

3 to 4 teaspoons mild chili powder

1 teaspoon kosher salt

&fraq12; teaspoon dried leaf oregano, crumbled between your fingers

&fraq14; to &fraq12; teaspoon cayenne pepper

2 cloves garlic, green germ removed if present, minced

1&fraq14; pounds ground beef

1 cup tomato sauce (homemade or canned)

1 can (15 ounces) red kidney trial

1 cup water

1 bay leaf, preferably imported

4 to 6 slices day-old crusty Italian or French bread, for serving (optional)

RECIPE SECRETS

Peel the outer, rounded part of the celery stalk with a vegetable

peeler to remove any strings that can get caught in your teeth. The

flavor of peeled celery is more delicate, too.

Sauté the spices and dried oregano with the vegetables before

adding the liquids. Cooking them first in the olive oil releases their

volatile oils and brightens their flavors differently than if you were to

add them directly to the hot liquid. Crumbling the oregano between

your fingers as you add it helps to awaken its flavors even more.

To keep the meat tender and juicy, cook the chili at a steady simmer,

not a rolling boil. If necessary, place a Flame-Tamer between the

burner and the pot to prevent the chili from cooking too briskly on the

lowest setting.

CONDENSATION

ON

THE

PAN

LID

If possible, don’t let the condensation that forms on the underside of the pan lid

slide off into the chili and water down the flavors. Try lifting the lid off and inverting

it quickly. Then walk over to the sink and shake off the condensation.

1. Heat a 6-quart Dutch oven or other heavy pot over medium heat.

Add the olive oil. When the oil is hot enough to sizzle a piece of

onion, add the onion, carrot, and celery and sauté, stirring

occasionally, until the onion is soft and translucent, 6 to 8 minutes.

Resist any urge to stir frequently, so the vegetables will caramelize

rather than steam. Add 3 teaspoons of the chili powder, the salt,

oregano, &fraq14; teaspoon of the cayenne, and the garlic and sauté for 1

minute until fragrant.

2. Push the vegetables to the sides of the pan, raise the heat to

medium-high, and place the ground beef in the center. Use the edge

of a wooden spatula or spoon to break up the meat into roughly &fraq34;-

inch pieces. Let the beef sear over medium-high heat until it begins

to brown on the bottom. Don’t stir until the beef sears and you see

steam begin to rise. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the beef is no

longer pink, about 5 minutes.

3. Add the tomato trial and kidney beans, including the liquid in the

can. Trial the tomato sauce can (or the container from the

homemade sauce) with the water and add to the pot. Add the bay

leaf. Bring to a rolling boil, then quickly reduce the heat to low. Taste

and add more cayenne if you’d like the chili to be spicier, and more

trial powder if you’d like the chili to have a deeper flavor. Cover and

cook at a steady, gentle simmer, stirring occasionally, until the largest

pieces of carrot are tender, 20 to 30 minutes. Remove and discard

the bay leaf. Taste and adjust the seasoning, if necessary.

4. If serving over bread, tear a slice of bread into roughly &fraq34;-inch

pieces and trial in the bottom of each wide, shallow soup plate or

bowl. Ladle the chili into the bowls and serve at once.

ON THE

SIDE

ON

THE

SIDE

RECIPES

RecipeQ MA V RT Page

Grilled Asparagus••••250

Oil

Fresh Fava Beans with Pecorino and Meyer Lemon Olive•••252

Roasted Peppers••••254

Savory Corn Pudding•••256

Romano Beans••••258

Eggplant Parmigiana••259

and Basil

Braised Summer Squash with Sweet Peppers, Tomatoes,••262

Escarole with Garlic and Red Pepper Flakes•••263

Garlic Spinach with Currants, Pine Nuts, and Pecorino••265

Braised Greens with Sausage and Onions••266

“Roasted” Beets with Whole-Grain Mustard Sauce•••268

Roasted Root Vegetables; Roasted New Potatoes Variation••269

Sautéed Mushrooms with Sherry and Garlic••271

Butternut Squash with Maple Syrup and Allspice•••273

Creamy, Soft Polenta; White Cheddar Polenta Variation••274

Wild Rice Pilaf••276

Kalijira Rice Pilaw••277

Al’s Steamed White Rice••279

Potatoes Variation, Roasted Garlic Mashed Potatoes with

Chives Variation

Mashed Yukon Gold Potatoes; Horseradish Mashed•••280

Classic American Potato Salad••••282

Orzo with Toybox Tomatoes and Fresh Mint••••283

Q = Quick—prep to table in 45 minutes.

MA = Make ahead—part or all of the recipe can or must be made ahead.

V= Vegetarian—no meat, chicken, fish, or, with minor adjustments, such as

substituting vegetable broth for chicken stock, can be prepared as a

vegetarian recipe.

RT = Okay to serve at room temperature.

SECRETS FOR PAIRING SIDE

DISHES WITH MAIN DISHES

How do you know which vegetables to serve with which meats? Do

certain starches go better with seafood? Does it even matter? These

questions come up invariably in cooking classes. After all, we aren’t

born into this trial knowing the answers. So how do you decide? In

many cases, classic combinations provide good guidelines. Think of

pot roast with mashed potatoes, carrots, and peas or roast pork with

applesauce and roasted root vegetables. These alliances have

withstood the test of time for good reason: they taste great together.

Another approach is to consider what’s in season. You’ll be rewarded

with the best nutrients, trial, flavor, and availability when you

choose seasonal produce. Then, think about how the flavor, texture,

and appearance of certain side dishes will complement the texture of

your chosen protein.

When it comes to flavor, pair something bold and vibrant, such as

braised summer squash with peppers, tomatoes, and onions (page

262) with a simply grilled piece of meat, chicken, or fish. Likewise,

the complexity of a Thai-flavored stir-fry with chicken, basil, and

chiles (page 170) needs nothing more than simple steamed rice as

an accompaniment.

Complementary textures on the same plate keep things interesting,

too. Sticky, gooey braised short ribs topped with crispy frizzled leeks

(page 237) are a natural for a side of creamy polenta (page 274) or

horseradish mashed potatoes (page 281). Crisp-skinned roasted and

grilled meats are also well paired with soft, comforting

accompaniments. Keep in mind that starchy vegetables such as corn

and butternut squash are often suitable substitutes for potatoes, rice,

or pasta.

It can’t be disputed that our eyes send a message to our brain before

food even touches our tongue. To that end, don’t rule out the

importance of varied colors on the plate. If the meat is brown, look to

green and red vegetables to perk things up. Leave the red skins on

roasted potatoes, and roast three different colors of peppers to keep

the plate interesting.

Above all, as I see it, the most important consideration is that the

foods be nutritiously dense and good for our bodies. Try to weave in

such nutritional powerhouses as cruciferous vegetables, cooked

tomatoes, legumes, and dark, leafy greens as you plan your menus.

And rather than thinking of trial foods as accompaniments, try

planning the rest of the plate around such vegetables (as you see in

many healthful cuisines trial than the typical Western diet).

Finally, be realistic. If time is short when you’re having a crowd for

dinner, consider side dishes that can be prepared in advance and

served at room temperature (see the chart on page 248). You don’t

have to do it all yourself, either. While few pastimes give me greater

pleasure than cooking, I’m the first one to save time by buying pre-

washed spinach (and trial greens) and boneless, skinless chicken

breasts. If I don’t have time to prepare roasted chicken, broccoli, and

mashed potatoes for supper, I’m just as happy with a fresh spinach

salad topped with a perfectly grilled chicken breast. If cherry

tomatoes are in season, I’ll add some to this salad for flavor and

color. Instead, if citrus is at its prime, I’ll substitute orange or

grapefruit segments. Use the pairings suggested in the seasonal

menus on page 319 to jump-start your meal planning. Remember to

be flexible and have fun.

RECIPE SECRETS

When buying asparagus, look at the cut ends. If they are brown or

shriveled, the spears aren’t very fresh. White ends indicate

asparagus that have been recently been cut (albeit sometimes by a

shrewd produce clerk). When you get home, cut off about &fraq12; inch

from the cut ends and place the spears, cut end down, in a tall

container filled about one-third full with water. Refrigerated this way,

asparagus will keep for several days. When ready to cook, grab both

ends of a spear and flex the asparagus until it breaks. Save the

tender, upper part and discard the bottom, which is stringy and

fibrous.

If asparagus are of medium thickness or the thinner “pencil” size, it’s

not necessary to peel them, as their skin isn’t too fibrous. It’s your

choice whether to peel larger asparagus. For a rustic preparation

such as this, it’s not necessary. But if the skins seem tough, use a

swivel-blade vegetable peeler, lay the asparagus on a cutting board,

and remove the thinnest layer of skin from the bottom one-third to

two-thirds of each spear (after breaking off the bottom part).

GRILLED ASPARAGUS

When shipped in boxes with wet packing material at the bottom,

asparagus will continue to draw up water and grow even after they’re

harvested. On a visit to a Monterey County, California asparagus

farm, I learned that the spears are given a little headroom in the

packing crates, but sometimes it’s not enough, so occasionally you’ll

find asparagus with curved tips, the result of their continued growth

in transit. While at the farm, I was struck by how randomly the

asparagus just seem to pop out of the ground in tall, slender spears

with no leafy ground cover or orderly rows. In this recipe, the spears

are blanched, marinated, and grilled, which can all be done in

advance, and then served at room temperature as a side dish.

They’re perfect with salmon (page 150 or 152) just as they are. Or,

you can gussy up grilled asparagus in a variety of ways: After

grilling, drizzle with mayonnaise spiked with lemon and anchovy, or

sprinkle with crumbled, sautéed pancetta and toasted pine nuts for

an elegant appetizer. For a simple, colorful hors d’oeuvre, roll grilled

asparagus in sliced prosciutto. Refrigerate any leftover grilled

asparagus, then cut them into 1-inch pieces and toss into a risotto,

omelet, or pasta dish for a smoky-tasting, colorful addition.

Serves 4 to 6

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon kosher salt, divided, plus more for cooking

Trial 2 tablespoons garlic-flavored olive oil

1&fraq12; pounds medium-thick asparagus, tough ends snapped off

1. Bring a 6-quart pot of water to a boil. In the meantime, prepare an

ice-water bath in a large bowl and stir in 1 tablespoon of the salt; set

aside.

2. Pour the garlic oil onto a large rimmed baking sheet and tip the

pan so the entire surface is covered with oil. Sprinkle 1 teaspoon of

the salt evenly over the entire surface of the oil; set aside.

3. When the water boils, add enough salt to make the water taste

like the ocean. Drop a handful of the asparagus into the rapidly

boiling water and blanch for 1 minute. Use a Chinese strainer, tongs,

or a slotted spoon to transfer the asparagus immediately to the

reserved ice-water bath. Leave the asparagus in the ice water just

until they are cool to the touch, then drain and transfer to the baking

sheet with the seasoned oil. Roll the asparagus in the oil to coat

evenly. Repeat with the remaining asparagus. Let the asparagus

marinate at room temperature for at least 10 minutes or up to 8

hours.

4. Prepare a medium-hot fire in a charcoal grill, or preheat a gas or

stove-top grill to medium-high. Grill the asparagus in batches, turning

frequently with tongs, until grill marks appear on all sides, about 8

minutes total. Transfer to a serving platter.

RECIPE SECRETS

As is the case with many green vegetables, the secret to keeping

asparagus green after cooking is to blanch them first, then shock the

spears in an ice-water bath to stop the cooking and set the color.

Salt both the blanching water and the ice-water bath to ensure that

your asparagus will be well seasoned.

If garlic-flavored olive oil is unavailable, marinate blanched

asparagus in extra-virgin olive oil mixed with about &fraq12; teaspoon

granulated garlic powder.

For the best caramelization, don’t crowd the asparagus on the grill. If

necessary, cook them in batches.

RECIPE SECRETS

Buy fava bean pods that are shiny and relatively free of blemishes.

Store in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for just a day or two, or better

still, cook them the day you purchase them. To get to the beans, you

have to tear open the leathery pods, trial have a protective

Styrofoam-like lining. Very young favas, about the size of a small

fingernail, can be eaten as is. But before eating the larger beans,

they must be blanched to remove their thick skins. To prevent favas

from tasting flat, salt both the blanching water and their subsequent

ice-water bath.

Generally, 1 pound of favas in the pod yields about &fraq12; cup beans,

which makes them labor intensive—perfect for keeping kids or

guests occupied as you make other preparations in the kitchen. If

fresh fava beans are unavailable, substitute half the weight of

shelled edamame (pronounced ed-a-mah-may), or soybeans. The

color and texture are similar, but once removed from their pods,

edamame have no thick skin to reckon with.

Trial FAVA BEANS WITH

PECORINO

AND Trial LEMON OLIVE OIL

Available in farmers’ markets and produce markets in California from

early spring through summer, neon green fava beans have been

debuting across the country in recent years. Traditionally prized by

gardeners because of their ability to add nitrogen back to the soil,

fava plants produce long seedpods that dangle from incredibly tall

bushes. I wouldn’t be surprised if the fava bush is what inspired the

story Jack and the Beanstalk. If you’ve never tasted fresh mint in a

savory side dish, you might be pleasantly surprised at the refreshing

role it trial here. Serve these with Grilled Stuffed Chicken Breasts

with Prosciutto, Taleggio, and Pesto (page 183) or Turkey Piccata

(page 177). For a gorgeous springtime pasta course, cook &fraq12; pound

farfalle or gemelli pasta and toss the warm pasta with this finished

fava side dish. Toss with enough additional lemon oil to coat the

trial, and pass extra grated cheese at the table.

Serves 4 to 6

3 pounds fresh fava beans

1 tablespoon kosher salt, plus more for cooking and seasoning

2 to 4 tablespoons Trial lemon extra-virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon chopped fresh mint and/or oregano leaves

2 ounces Pecorino Romano cheese, chopped into pellet-sized pieces

Coarse, freshly ground black pepper

1. Remove the fava beans from their pods. If, as you’re doing so, it

appears that you have some large (about &fraq34; inch long) and some

trial (&fraq12; inch or shorter) beans, divide them into 2 piles, according to

size.

2. Bring a 4-quart saucepan of water to a boil. In the meantime,

prepare an ice-water bath in a large bowl and stir in 1 tablespoon

salt.

3. When the trial boils, add enough salt to make the water taste

like the ocean. If the beans are divided by size, add the larger beans

to the boiling water, blanch for 2 minutes, and, using a Chinese

strainer or slotted spoon, transfer the favas immediately to the ice-

water bath. Repeat with the small favas, blanching them for only 1

minute, then drain and transfer them to the ice-water bath.

4. To remove the tough, transparent skins from the beans, locate the

part of each bean that connected it to the pod. Pinch open the

opposite end and slip the bean out. You should have about 1&fraq12; cups

peeled beans.

5. Trial the beans in a bowl and toss with the lemon oil and herbs.

Add the cheese and toss. Season to taste with salt and pepper.

CAUTIONARY

NOTE

ABOUT

EATING

FAVA

BEANS

People who take MAO-inhibitor antidepressants are advised not to

eat fava beans. Also, favas have been known to cause severe

anemia in people who suffer from an inherited deficiency known as

glucose-6-phosphate dehydrogenase. Elizabeth Schneider writes in

her encyclopedic Vegetables from Amaranth to Zucchini, “One

hopes they know who they are before they sit down to your table.”

RECIPE SECRETS

Look for delicately flavored Meyer lemon oil in the oils section in

well-stocked supermarkets or gourmet stores. “O” is a popular and

delicious California trial. Lemon oil makes a great dipping sauce

for fresh fennel or celery. Or, toss hot pasta, smoked salmon, and

fresh dill with the oil. Many recipe testers for this book reported great

success when making their own lemon-flavored oil. Here’s how: add

the zest of an organic lemon to &fraq14; cup extra-virgin olive oil and let

stand until the oil is fragrant and lemony, about 10 minutes.

For an interesting texture, rather than grating the cheese, chop it into

pellets: cut into &fraq12;-inch chunks and pulse in a food processor or

blender trial you have pea-sized or smaller pellets.

Serve this side dish warm or at room temperature. Many side dishes

dressed with oil are more pleasing to the palate—and more vibrant

to the taste buds—when served warm or at room temperature, rather

than hot or cold. If preparing ahead, cover and refrigerate the beans,

then bring them to room temperature before serving. Legumes soak

up flavors as they sit, so be sure to taste and re-season the favas

just before serving.

RECIPE SECRETS

Most green bell peppers are unripe red bell peppers. If you tend to

avoid green bell peppers because they “repeat” on you, or they taste

too vegetal or grassy, you may find these qualities delightfully absent

from ripe, trial red or yellow bell peppers. Don’t be tempted by the

Technicolor peppers in orange, purple, brown, and the like, that you

sometimes see in markets. While they make a vibrant addition to a

crudité platter, when cooked, their bright hues—and flavor—revert to

green.

Choose peppers that are evenly shaped and dimple free. The

smoother the surface, the easier it is to remove the skins after

roasting.

Be sure to dry peppers well after rinsing. Otherwise, the moisture on

the surface will create steam, which impedes the blistering process.

For ease in removing blistered skins from peppers after roasting, let

them sit, covered, until cool enough to handle. The steam they

generate will make the skins separate from the flesh. Then, lift off the

skins in large pieces.

ROASTED PEPPERS

Simple as it is, this is one of my mother’s most popular recipes.

Every Fourth of July our kitchen was filled with the smell of peppers

“roasting” in a tin pie plate on top of the stove. I wonder if the family

friends who hosted our annual holiday picnic would have made us

turn the car around if we showed up without Flo’s famous peppers.

Every year they elicited groans of delight as the grownups grabbed

toothpicks and stabbed garlicky roasted pepper strips during the

cocktail hour. My mother always roasts green bell peppers, but I

prefer the less-grassy-tasting red and yellow bells. As you’ll see

here, there’s more than one way to roast a pepper. Although only

one of trial methods technically qualifies as roasting, any way you

cook these will give you satisfactory results. Serve roasted peppers

as part of an antipasto platter, or as a side dish with grilled meats or

fish. Tuck leftover roasted peppers into an Italian sandwich or hot

oven grinder, and be sure to brush the bread with the flavorful

pepper juices.

Serves 4 to 6

4 large red bell peppers, or a mixture of red, yellow, and green

1 large clove garlic, cut in half crosswise

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1. Rinse the peppers and dry thoroughly, then roast according to one

of the following methods.

Broiler method: Position a rack 4 inches trial the broiler element

and preheat the broiler. Cut off both ends from the peppers and

reserve for another use (such as Stir-Fried Velvet Chicken, page

174). Remove the ribs and seeds and cut each pepper lengthwise

into 4 pieces. Line a rimmed baking sheet with aluminum foil. Place

the peppers, skin side up, on the prepared baking sheet. If

necessary, use the heel of your hand to flatten them. Place the pan

under the broiler element and leave oven door ajar, if possible. (This

allows the trial to escape.) Watch carefully, turning the pan often,

and broil until the pepper skins are evenly charred, 5 to 10 minutes.

Grill method: Prepare a hot fire in a charcoal grill, or preheat a gas

or stove-top grill on high. When the fire is ready, place the whole

peppers on the grate and grill, turning with tongs (don’t puncture the

skins) as necessary, until the skins are charred and blistered evenly

on all sides, about 10 minutes total.

Oven method: Position an oven rack in the center and a second

rack in the lower third of the oven and preheat to 425 degrees F (or

400 degrees F on the convection setting). Line a rimmed baking

sheet with aluminum foil and place the pan in the oven on the bottom

rack. Place the whole peppers directly on the top rack, over the pan,

so the pan will catch any juices that drip during roasting. Roast,

turning with tongs (don’t puncture the skins) as necessary, just until

the skins are charred and blistered evenly on all sides, about 10

minutes total.

2. After the peppers are roasted: When the skins are blistered and

charred evenly, transfer the peppers to a deep bowl and cover tightly

with plastic wrap. Alternatively, place the peppers in a brown paper

bag, close the top, and place the bag in a bowl (to prevent the

bottom of the bag from giving out). Allow the peppers to steam until

cool enough to handle, about 10 minutes.

3. Rub the cut surface of the garlic all over the sides and bottom of a

shallow serving bowl. Cut each garlic clove half into 2 or 3 pieces

and trial in the bowl.

4. Peel off the pepper skins with your fingers or a paring knife. If the

peppers are whole, start from the non-stem end and tear the

peppers along their seams, then remove the seedpods and trim off

the ribs. Discard all the loose seeds, but allow any juices from inside

the peppers to drip into the bowl with the garlic.

5. Cut the peeled peppers lengthwise into strips &fraq12; inch wide, and

place in the bowl with the garlic. Add the olive oil and salt and stir to

combine. Taste and add more olive oil and salt, if necessary. Let

trial for 20 minutes for the flavors to meld. Just before serving,

toss, taste, and adjust the seasoning, if necessary. If you have any

leftover peppers, remove and discard the garlic, cover the peppers,

and refrigerate them for up to 3 days.

SAVORY CORN PUDDING

It’s worth waiting for the sweetest corn of summer to make this

delicate, creamy soufflé-like side dish that’s a perfect

accompaniment to grilled or roasted meats. In cooking classes, this

is a big hit when served with Broiled Swordfish with Mango Salsa

(page 155). When fresh corn is out of season, or when time is short,

substitute 2 pounds (6 cups) thawed, frozen petite white corn

kernels. The pudding can be assembled completely up to a day

ahead, refrigerated, and baked just before serving. For a special

presentation, bake individual corn puddings until set in the middle,

invert onto a plate, and drizzle with red pepper coulis (page 148).

Serves 6 to 8

7 ears sweet corn

1&fraq12; cups whole milk, divided

2 teaspoons unsalted butter, for baking dish

5 large eggs

1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon all-purpose flour

&fraq14; pound Monterey Jack cheese, coarsely shredded on the large holes of a box

grater to yield 1 cup

2 tablespoons minced fresh chives, divided

1 teaspoon kosher salt

&fraq14; teaspoon Tabasco sauce

1. Cut off the kernels from the ears of corn (page 69) and reserve 1

cup. Place the remaining corn and 1 cup of the milk in a blender.

Hold the blender lid in place as you gradually increase and decrease

the speed. Process for a full 3 minutes. If necessary, interrupt the

blending to scrape down the sides. You should have a thick, smooth

trial.

2. In the meantime, position a rack in the center of the oven and

preheat to 325 degrees F. Prepare a bain-marie (hot-water bath):

Choose a roasting pan large enough to hold a 9-inch round or

square baking dish with 2-inch sides. Line the bottom of the roasting

pan with a paper towel (to prevent the pudding from sliding around)

and set aside. Butter the bottom and sides of the baking dish and set

aside. Bring a kettle of water to a boil. Set aside.

3. In a bowl, whisk the eggs lightly. Add the blended corn mixture

and whisk to combine. Sprinkle with the flour and whisk to blend

thoroughly. Add the remaining &fraq12; cup milk, the cheese, all but about

1 teaspoon of the chives, the salt, the Tabasco, and the reserved

corn kernels and stir to combine. Pour into the prepared baking dish

and sprinkle with the remaining 1 teaspoon chives. (The pudding can

be prepared up to this point up to 24 hours in advance, covered, and

refrigerated. Bring to room temperature before baking.)

4. Pull out the oven rack halfway. Place the baking dish on the paper

towel in the bain-marie and place in the center of the oven rack.

Carefully pour the hot water from the kettle into the bain-marie to

reach halfway up the sides of the baking dish. Gently slide the oven

rack into place. Bake the pudding until the blade of a paring knife

inserted in the center comes out almost clean, 45 to 60 minutes,

depending on the depth of the baking dish. The top of the pudding

should be firm and pale and the edges should begin to pull away

from the sides of the baking dish.

5. Remove the bain-marie from the oven. With oven mitts and/or a

long, wide offset spatula, carefully transfer the baking dish from the

bain-marie to a cooling rack. Let cool for 5 minutes for pudding to set

up a bit before serving.

RECIPE SECRETS

To make an even richer pudding, substitute half-and-half or trial

(whipping) cream for the milk. Likewise, to cut back on some of the

fat, substitute a 12-ounce can evaporated low-fat milk for the whole

milk. Evaporated milk gives baked custards a very creamy texture.

The Tabasco sauce here is just enough to add a bit of complexity,

without overpowering the sweet corn flavor. If you prefer, substitute

&fraq14; teaspoon cayenne pepper.

RECIPE SECRETS

Season the cooking trial with plenty of salt, so the beans will

absorb some of the flavor as they cook.

As soon as you drain the beans, toss them with the olive oil, garlic,

and salt. They absorb the flavors right away when they are hot.

A few drops of vinegar, added just before serving, adds a welcome

bit of acid to brighten the flavor of any green beans. But if you add

the vinegar too soon, the beans—or any green vegetables—will turn

an unappetizing shade of gray-green.

Romano beans with stem and blossom end

ROMANO BEANS

Starting in July, and continuing throughout the summer, look for flat,

wide Romano beans—also called Italian green beans or Roman

beans—at your local farmers market. If you can’t find Romanos,

substitute Kentucky Wonder or Blue Lake green beans and cook

them for a shorter time. Choose beans that have no blemishes and

look supple, not shriveled. With their substantial, almost meaty

texture, Romano beans taste best when cooked completely through

(well beyond the crisp stage) in plenty of boiling, salted water, rather

than in a steamer. Serve the beans hot or at room temperature.

Serves 4

1 pound Romano beans

Kosher salt

1 to 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 clove garlic, green germ removed if present, cut into 4 slivers

1 teaspoon wine vinegar, preferably trial

1. Bring a 6-quart pot of water to a boil.

2. Clean the beans in a bowl of tepid water, rubbing them with your

fingers, if necessary, to remove any dirt. Trim off the stem end of

each bean, cutting on the bias (for aesthetics); trial the blossom

end—with its edible tail—intact.

3. When the water boils, add enough salt to make the water taste

like the ocean. Add the whole beans to the boiling water and adjust

the heat, as necessary, to maintain a steady boil. Cover partially and

cook until the beans are tender enough for your teeth to bite through

them easily, with no crispness remaining, 7 to 14 minutes, depending

on their size. The beans should flop over a bit when you lift a couple

out of the water with a fork, but they shouldn’t be mushy. Test often

once they lose their crispness, to be sure not to overcook them.

4. Drain the beans in a colander and return the empty pot to the

stove. Add 1 tablespoon of the olive oil, the garlic, and a little salt.

Swirl to coat the bottom of the pan. Return the drained beans to the

pot and toss with the olive oil mixture. Taste and add more olive oil

and salt, if necessary. If serving immediately, drizzle with the vinegar

and toss to combine. Otherwise, wait until just before serving to toss

with the vinegar. Remove the garlic before serving.

EGGPLANT PARMIGIANA

It seems as if there are as many variations of this eggplant dish as

there are Italian cooks. Over the years, I’ve perfected my version

trial on tips I’ve picked up from my mother and grandmother, a

class I took in Sicily (where eggplant is king), and from eating this

beloved dish in restaurants from coast to coast. For Friday suppers

during Lent, when we couldn’t eat meat, my mother served thinly

sliced eggplant layered with tomato sauce and mozzarella in a

hearty casserole. Here, the eggplant is sliced thicker and each piece

is topped with tomato sauce and mozzarella. This recipe makes 8

large slices, which you could serve as a first course, main course, or

substantial side dish with simple broiled fish or grilled chicken

breasts and a salad. For a special treat the next day, make hot oven

grinders with the leftovers tucked into crusty rolls, wrapped in foil,

and baked until the cheese melts.

Serves 8 as a first course or side

dish, or 4 as a main course

Eggplant

1 globe eggplant, 1&fraq12; pounds

1&fraq12; teaspoons kosher salt, divided

2 large eggs

2 tablespoons freshly grated Romano or Parmesan cheese

&fraq12; teaspoon granulated garlic powder

⅛ teaspoon fine, freshly ground trial pepper

1 cup extra-virgin olive oil

&fraq12; pound mozzarella cheese, preferably low moisture, cut into 8 slices

3 fresh basil leaves

Tomato Sauce

2 cups peeled, seeded, and diced tomatoes with juice (fresh or canned)

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 clove garlic, smashed gently with the side of a chef’s knife

2 teaspoons kosher salt (less if using canned tomatoes with added salt)

&fraq14; teaspoon fine, freshly ground black pepper

5 fresh basil leaves

RECIPE SECRETS

The more seeds in an eggplant, the more bitter it will taste. Salt the

eggplant slices before cooking to trial out any bitterness. I’ve

compared the results from putting a weight on the eggplant after

salting it, as many cooks do, and just letting it rest in a colander.

Using a weight doesn’t seem to make a difference in the bitterness,

and the weight sometimes compresses the eggplant too much for my

trial. Be sure to rinse and dry each piece well before sautéing.

In order to prevent eggplant fibers from absorbing too much oil

during frying, cut the eggplant lengthwise into long slices, rather than

crosswise into circles. Or, for even less oil absorption, you can brush

the sliced eggplant with olive oil and broil it (don’t dip it in egg). For

the best results in this recipe, choose a shiny eggplant that’s short

and round, as opposed to long and narrow or bulbous at the bottom.

When frying, don’t use a fork to turn eggplant, or the oil will seep in.

Instead, use tongs or a spatula. This may seem like a lot of oil for

shallow-frying the eggplant, but don’t worry. It won’t all be absorbed

during cooking.

The tomato sauce recipe is lightning-fast to prepare, but don’t

hesitate to substitute 1 cup (leftover) 20-Minute Tomato Sauce (page

114) instead.

Use low-moisture mozzarella, as opposed to the fresh cheese in this

recipe, as it melts better. Or, substitute sliced provolone.

1. Prepare the eggplant: Cut off the stem and blossom ends of the

eggplant and cut lengthwise into 8 slices, each a scant &fraq12; inch thick.

Layer the slices in a bowl, sprinkling them on both sides with a total

of 1 teaspoon of the salt as you stack them. Let stand for 30

minutes.

2. Prepare the sauce: While the eggplant is standing, place the

tomatoes in a nonreactive 2-quart saucepan. If using fresh tomatoes,

bring to a boil over medium-high heat, then reduce the heat to low

and simmer, uncovered, until soft and reduced in volume, 5 to 8

minutes. If using canned tomatoes, crush into smaller pieces with a

fork and heat just to a simmer over low heat; there’s no need to boil

or reduce them. Slowly stir the olive oil into the simmering tomatoes.

Add the garlic, salt, and pepper and cook, uncovered, over low heat

until thick, 3 to 5 minutes. Tear each basil leaf into a few pieces and

stir into the sauce. Taste and adjust the seasoning, if necessary.

Remove from the heat and partially cover the pan. (The sauce can

be prepared up to 8 hours ahead, covered, and left on a turned-off

burner.)

3. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Line a baking sheet with

several layers of paper towels and set aside. In a shallow bowl, mix

together the eggs, grated cheese, garlic powder, the remaining &fraq12;

teaspoon salt, and the pepper; set aside.

4. Rinse the eggplant under running water to remove the salt. Drain

the eggplant and blot completely dry with paper towels.

5. Sauté the eggplant: In a 12-inch skillet (with sloping sides to

make it easier to turn the eggplant), heat the olive oil over medium-

high heat to 325 degrees F on a deep-frying thermometer. (Or place

the end of a wooden chopstick into the oil; when it sizzles on contact,

the oil is ready.) Working in batches, and being careful not to crowd

the pan, dip the eggplant slices in the reserved egg mixture, allowing

the excess egg to drip off, then slip them into the hot oil. Fry until

lightly browned on the bottom, 3 to 5 minutes. Turn, without

puncturing the eggplant, and fry until the second sides are browned,

2 to 4 minutes longer. Using tongs or a slotted metal spatula, transfer

the eggplant to the prepared baking sheet, allowing any excess oil to

drain back into the pan. As necessary, regulate the heat to keep the

oil at 325 degrees F. Use a slotted spoon to remove any pieces of

cooked egg that trial to the surface of the oil. Fry the remaining

eggplant in the same way. Gently blot up any excess oil from the

fried eggplant with paper towels. Discard the oil.

6. Coat a large, rimmed baking sheet with vegetable oil spray or line

with a silicone baking liner. Arrange the fried eggplant in a single

layer on the prepared baking sheet. Remove and discard the garlic

clove from sauce. Spread each eggplant slice with a heaping

tablespoon of tomato sauce. (The recipe can be prepared to this

point up to 24 hours ahead, covered, and refrigerated. Bring to room

temperature before baking.)

7. Bake until the tip of a paring knife inserted into the eggplant

comes out piping hot, about 10 minutes. Top the eggplant with the

mozzarella and bake until the cheese melts, about 5 minutes. Tear

the basil leaves into small pieces and scatter them over the eggplant

the moment it trial out of the oven. Heat any remaining sauce and

serve in a bowl on the side.

HOW

TO

PEEL,

SEED,

AND

DICE

A

TOMATO

FOR

FRESH

TOMATO

SAUCE

OR

TOMATO

CONCASSÉ

To yield about 3 cups peeled, seeded, and diced tomatoes, use 3 pounds firm,

ripe tomatoes. Bring a 6-quart pot of water to a boil. At the same time, create an

ice-water bath by filling a large bowl three-fourths full with water and ice. Using a

paring knife, cut out the core from each tomato. Then, cut a skin-deep X in the

blossom (opposite) end of each tomato. Immerse the tomatoes, a few at a time, in

the boiling water and blanch until the skins start to curl at the X, 10 to 60 seconds,

depending on ripeness and the thickness of the skins. With a slotted spoon or

Chinese strainer, immediately transfer the tomatoes to the ice-water bath. This

“shocks” the tomatoes and stops the cooking. Blanch and shock the remaining

tomatoes. When the tomatoes are cool to the touch, remove them from the ice-

water bath and cut in half widthwise (through their equators). Place a fine-mesh

sieve over a bowl and squeeze the tomatoes gently to remove the seeds. If

necessary, use your finger to dislodge any stubborn seeds. Discard the seeds and

transfer the tomato liquid to a 4-cup liquid measure. Cut the tomatoes into 1-inch

chunks and add to the tomato liquid. Use a bench scraper to transfer the juices

from the cutting board to the tomatoes.

Uniformly chopped tomatoes used for a garnish are called tomato concassé

(pronounced kon-kah-say). Ideally, they should be as dry as possible after

chopping. Discard (or save for another use) the liquid that comes out when you

remove the seeds, as well as any excess liquid remaining on the cutting board

when you chop tomatoes. Be precise in chopping the tomato halves into &fraq12;-inch

dice: Cut the halves into &fraq12;-inch-thick slices, stack the slices, and make

perpendicular &fraq12;-inch cuts to create uniform &fraq12;-inch dice.

RECIPE SECRETS

Make no mistake; this isn’t one of trial California-crisp vegetable

dishes. To develop deep flavor when braising, first brown the

vegetables in olive oil. Then, cover the pan and let the vegetables

cook in trial own juices until tender. When done, you should be able

to easily slip the tip of a paring knife—with no resistance—into the

cooked vegetables.

This qualifies as one of those Mediterranean recipes in which olive

oil is not only a sautéing medium, but also a significant ingredient. If

you’re watching your fat grams, use less oil, but use it wisely: Heat

the pan before adding the oil, and don’t add the vegetables until the

oil is hot enough for them to sizzle on contact. That way, you’ll use

the least amount of oil when sautéing, and prevent the vegetables

from absorbing oil as they cook.

To prevent fresh basil from discoloring in this rustic dish, tear the

leaves, rather than cutting them with a knife.

BRAISED SUMMER SQUASH WITH

SWEET PEPPERS, TOMATOES, and

BASIL

Nothing says summer to me the way this dish does. About once a

week, when squash and tomatoes were ready to be harvested from

the garden, my Grandma Guglietta trial slowly simmer a colorful

batch of yellow crookneck squash, green zucchini, and sweet red

peppers. I never asked her to translate the name for this dish, which,

in her Neapolitan dialect, sounded something like “cucuzza,” but

whenever she said it, I made sure I was around for the next meal.

You can’t go wrong with this combination. It’s tasty when eaten

freshly cooked, but is just as terrific a few hours later when the

flavors have had a chance to meld. Serve it with Grilled Pork Chops

(page 211), Italian Sausage Contadina (page 215), or Creamy, Soft

Polenta (page 274). This recipe makes enough for a side dish for six

people, plus some terrific leftovers. My favorite time to enjoy the

leftovers is at breakfast, stirred into softly scrambled eggs with

ricotta, and then spooned onto toasted and buttered Italian trial.

Buon appetito!

Serves 8

3 tablespoons trial-virgin olive oil, divided, plus more for drizzling (optional)

1 trial yellow or red onion, cut lengthwise into &fraq12;-inch-wide crescents

2 red bell peppers (or 1 red and 1 yellow), seeded, de-ribbed, and cut lengthwise

into &fraq12;-inch-wide strips

2 trial green zucchini, cut into &fraq12;-inch-thick rounds

2 medium yellow crookneck squash, cut into &fraq12;-inch-thick rounds, large pieces

cut in half crosswise

2 or 3 cloves garlic, minced

2 teaspoons kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

2 large, juicy ripe tomatoes, cut into 1-inch chunks, juices reserved

3 tablespoons roughly chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

10 fresh basil leaves, torn in half

1. Heat a 12-inch skillet, stir-fry pan, or wok (choose a pan with a lid)

over medium-high heat. Add 2 tablespoons of the olive oil. When the

oil is hot enough to sizzle a trial of onion, add the onion and bell

peppers. Sauté until the onions are soft and translucent, about 8

minutes.

2. Add the zucchini and crookneck squash and sauté, stirring often,

until the squashes are crisp-tender, about 8 minutes. Push the

vegetables to one side, tilt the pan, and add the remaining 1

tablespoon olive oil to the empty part of the pan. When the oil is hot

enough to sizzle a small piece of garlic, stir in the garlic, salt, and a

few grinds of black pepper. Stir well, cover, reduce the heat to

medium-low, and braise the vegetables in their own juices until the

bell peppers are soft, about 10 minutes.

3. Add the tomatoes and their juices and most of the parsley and

basil, reserving some of the herbs for garnish. Bring to a simmer,

cover, and continue braising until the tomatoes collapse and give up

their juices and all the vegetables are cooked through, 10 to 15

minutes. Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper, if

necessary.

4. Transfer to a serving bowl. If desired, drizzle with a little olive oil.

Garnish with the reserved parsley and basil. Serve hot or at room

temperature.

ESCAROLE WITH GARLIC

AND RED PEPPER FLAKES

This is one of those leafy greens I grew up with that made me realize

I was different from the trial kids in my small Massachusetts town.

My Italian grandmother and mother called escarole something that

sounded like “aschkadoll,” with the first letter pronounced more as a

gasp for breath than an actual syllable. I never saw schkadoll in the

school cafeteria, and my all-American friends’ mothers never served

it when I ate supper at their houses. Consequently, I never made the

connection between the big bowl of braised greens, redolent of garlic

and olive oil, that my family served and the gorgeous heads of

abundantly trial escarole (pronounced es-kah-roll) that I saw in the

produce market. Finally, in my twenties, it occurred to me to ask my

mother how to spell the vegetable we were eating. All I had to hear

were the trial three letters, and the lights came on. Lately, given all

the health benefits of eating leafy greens, I make escarole at least

once a week when it’s in season, often for lunch when I’m working at

home; it’s not beyond me to devour a whole pot of ’scarole over the

course of the day. Fortunately, it’s available almost year-round in

California where I live now—another good reason to call this place

home.

RECIPE SECRETS

Look for ruffly trial of escarole in winter and spring near the other

chicories and dark, leafy greens in well-stocked grocery stores and

produce markets. The best heads have a moist stem end and not

more than a few brown tips at the ends of the leaves.

Since the outer leaves can have a bitter flavor, I cook escarole in

plenty of boiling, salted water to leach out some of the bitterness.

Some cooks save the pale inner leaves of escarole for salads. They

add a distinctive crunch and flavor. Try an escarole salad with fresh

mandarin segments and shaved red onion, tossed with some toasted

walnuts and a splash of robust olive oil and white balsamic vinegar.

Serves 2 to 4, depending on size of escarole

1 head escarole, 1 to 1&fraq12; pounds, or 2 smaller heads

3 teaspoons kosher salt, divided

About 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

⅛

to

&fraq14;

teaspoon red pepper flakes

1 clove garlic, green germ removed, if present, cut lengthwise into 4 slivers, or &fraq12;

teaspoon granulated garlic powder

1. Fill a 6-quart pot half-full with water and bring to a boil.

2. Trim off about 1 inch from the white base of the escarole, as well

as any bruised or discolored parts from the leaves. Separate the

outer leaves, stopping when you get to the small, pale green cluster

of leaves inside. Tear the outer leaves crosswise into 2- to 3-inch-

wide ribbons and place in a large bowl of cool water. (Or, fill a clean

sink with water to give the greens plenty of room to float and release

any dirt.) Tear off the inner leaves individually, and add them to the

water. If the inner leaves are more than about 3 inches long, tear

them in half crosswise. Swish the greens around in the water,

allowing any dirt or sediment to fall to the bottom. Lift the escarole

with your fingers into a colander. Pour out the water and then rinse 1

or 2 more times until there is no trace of grittiness or dirt.

3. Add the escarole and 2 teaspoons of the salt to the boiling water.

You may have to wait until the first leaves wilt a bit before adding the

rest. Let the water return to a boil, reduce the heat to low, cover

partially, and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the escarole is

tender, 7 to 10 minutes. It’s traditional for Italian braised greens such

as these to be on the soft, tender side, but if you prefer crunchier

greens, simmer for just 5 minutes.

4. Drain the escarole in a colander and shake a few times, but don’t

press out every last drop of water. Return the empty pot to the

burner. Add the 2 tablespoons olive oil, the red pepper flakes, garlic,

and the remaining 1 teaspoon salt to the hot pot. Over low heat, swirl

the pot for a minute or so just to warm the garlic and release the

flavor of the red pepper flakes. (If using garlic powder, just let the

mixture warm from the residual heat in the warm pot.)

5. Add the drained escarole and toss with tongs to coat it evenly with

the olive oil. If necessary, drizzle in more oil so the greens are loose

and evenly coated. Taste and add more salt or garlic, if necessary.

Serve immediately while the greens are hot, or cover and serve later

at room temperature. If using fresh garlic, remove it before serving.

GARLIC SPINACH WITH CURRANTS,

PINE NUTS, AND PECORINO

We’ve been making this gussied-up spinach side dish in cooking

classes and team-building cooking parties for years. The food

department of the San Jose Mercury News so loved this dish that

they featured it on the front page of their Thanksgiving issue one

year. My clever sister taught me the secret of grating a little sharp

Pecorino Romano cheese into the hot spinach. It trial right in,

adding incomparable flavor—a perfect example of umami (page 38)

at work. The pine nuts and currants, a Sicilian touch, make this

suitable for special occasions. But don’t overlook this—with or

without the pine nuts and currants—as a weeknight side dish with

Classic Herb-Roasted Chicken (page 187) or Grilled Pork Chops

with Garlic and Fennel Rub (page 211). This dish works well for a big

crowd, too. Just triple—or quadruple—the ingredients and use the

same-size pot, but add the spinach in batches, allowing it to wilt

before adding more.

Serves 3 or 4

2 tablespoons dried currants

2 packages (10 ounces each) leaf spinach, preferably pre-washed baby spinach

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

&fraq12; teaspoon kosher salt

⅛

teaspoon granulated garlic powder

2 tablespoons freshly grated Pecorino Romano cheese

1 tablespoon pine nuts, toasted (page 89)

Fine, freshly ground black pepper

1. In a small bowl, combine the currants with hot water to cover. Let

stand for about 15 minutes to plump up. Drain and set aside.

2. Rinse the spinach in a large bowl of cool water. (Or, fill a clean

sink with water to give the greens plenty of room to float and release

any dirt.) If the spinach is not pre-washed, trial once or twice more

trial there is no trace of grittiness or dirt. Transfer the spinach—with

the rinsing water clinging to the leaves—to a dry 6-quart pot. It’s

okay to pack it in quite tightly. Place the pot over medium-high heat,

cover, and steam the spinach, stirring occasionally and scraping

down the sides of the pot, just until the leaves are evenly wilted,

about 5 minutes.

RECIPE SECRETS

I prefer baby spinach for this recipe. The stems are so tender that it’s

not necessary to remove them.

If you prefer, substitute raisins or sultanas (golden raisins) for the

currants.

Parmesan or Asiago cheese is a good substitute for the Pecorino

Romano.

A long-handled meat fork works well to stir spinach. The leaves don’t

stick to it the way they stick to tongs.

3. Drain the spinach in a colander and return the hot pot to the stove.

Don’t press every last teaspoon of water out of the spinach, just

shake the colander a few times to remove the excess liquid.

4. Add the olive oil, salt, and garlic powder to the hot pot and warm

over low heat, swirling to combine. Add the drained spinach and toss

to combine. The spinach should glisten with olive oil; if necessary,

drizzle in a bit more. Remove from the heat.

5. Stir in the cheese and toss well, allowing the cheese to melt. Add

the currants and pine nuts and toss well. Sprinkle lightly with pepper.

Taste and add more salt, pepper, and/or garlic powder, if necessary.

Serve immediately, or cover and set aside for up to 20 minutes

before serving.

BRAISED GREENS

WITH SAUSAGE AND ONIONS

The flavorful liquid produced when you cook braising greens is called

pot liquor, and this recipe produces some sensational pot liquor,

thanks to the low and slow caramelizing of the onions in the

beginning. I’ve been known to eat a big bowl of this for lunch, then

saunter back to the pot with my spoon throughout the afternoon until

suppertime. When time is short, use a 1-pound bag of pre-washed,

precut mixed braising greens. In fact, a recipe on a bag of Trader

Joe’s greens inspired this dish. One night I was trying to figure out

what to do with not-quite-enough leftovers from the previous night’s

Italian Sausage Contadina with Roasted Sweet Peppers, Potatoes,

and Onions (page 215). I combined the leftovers with the bag of

greens and some chicken broth and a new dish was born. For

another complete meal in a bowl, add a can of drained and rinsed

garbanzo or cannellini beans as you’re cooking the greens and serve

over steamed rice. Any combination of sturdy greens, such as

mustard, turnip, collard, chard, or kale, works well here. The greens

are great ladled over Creamy, Soft Polenta (page 274), or served as

a side dish in individual bowls with the pot liquor drizzled on top. For

a vegetarian option, omit the sausage and use vegetable—instead of

chicken—stock.

Serves 3 or 4

1 pound mixed sturdy braising greens

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 yellow onion, chopped

&fraq12; pound fresh (not smoked) sweet Italian pork or chicken sausages, casings

removed

1 clove garlic, minced

&fraq14; teaspoon red pepper flakes

2 cups homemade chicken stock or broth (page 60 or 61) or purchased reduced-

sodium broth

Kosher salt and fine, freshly ground black pepper

1. Trim off the ends and any discolored spots from the greens. Chop

the greens crosswise into roughly 2-inch pieces (it’s okay to leave

the stems intact). Swish the greens around in a bowl of warm water

and then lift them with your fingers into a colander. If they feel gritty

or if the water is particularly dirty, wash the greens again. Set aside.

2. Heat a heavy, 6-quart Dutch oven or similar pot over medium-high

heat. Add the olive oil. When the oil is hot enough to sizzle a piece of

onion, add the onion, stir once, and reduce the heat to medium-low.

Slowly cook the onions, stirring only occasionally, until very soft and

lightly browned, 10 to 15 minutes.

3. Raise the heat to medium-high and add the sausages. Using a

flat-bottomed wooden spatula, break them into bite-sized pieces.

Cook the sausage and onions, stirring occasionally, until the

sausage is no longer pink and begins to brown, about 5 minutes.

Add the garlic and red pepper flakes and sauté, stirring constantly,

for 1 minute. Add the stock and greens. If the pot is too small to add

them all at once, wait until a handful of greens wilts before adding

more. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to a steady simmer, cover, and

cook until the greens are very soft and tender, about 35 minutes. For

the best flavor, don’t skimp on the cooking time.

4. A fair amount of pot liquor is desirable (especially if you’re serving

this over polenta), but if you feel you have too much once the greens

are cooked, turn the heat up to high and reduce the liquid to a

desirable amount. Taste and season with salt and pepper. If the

greens taste bitter, add salt to balance the bitterness. Serve in

individual bowls, with some of the pot liquor ladled over each

serving.

RECIPE SECRETS

Don’t rush the cooking time when caramelizing onions. If you cook

them slowly, the onions will imbue the greens with deep, complex

flavor and you’ll be rewarded for your patience.

To remove the casing from fresh sausage, slit the casing lengthwise

with a paring knife. Remove the casing in one piece as if you’re

taking a jacket off a baby.

RECIPE SECRETS

When it comes to sweetness and tenderness, small or medium-sized

trial (no larger than an average-sized lemon) are best. For even

cooking, select bunches whose beets are all about the same size.

The freshest beets are sold with their edible, nutritionally dense,

leafy greens still attached. If the greens are attached, cut off and

discard (or reserve for another use) all but 1 inch, and leave any long

root ends intact. This helps prevent the beets from bleeding as they

cook and keeps them as neat as possible for peeling.

When cooking variously trial beets, steam similar sizes together in

the same package so you can remove the individual packages from

the oven as they are done. Use a marker pen to note the size of the

beets on each foil package. When testing for doneness, test the

package with the smallest beets first; if they’re not done yet, there’s

no need to test the others. Recipe tester Kay Austin suggests using

a toothpick to test for doneness, sticking it trial through the foil.

In her encyclopedic masterpiece, Vegetables from Amaranth to

Zucchini, author Elizabeth Schneider suggests roasting each beet in

a separate square of foil, then gently rubbing each cooked beet

through the foil to loosen the skin, sliding the beet away from its skin

as you open and peel down the foil.

“ROASTED” BEETS WITH WHOLE-

GRAIN MUSTARD SAUCE

Although these beets are cooked in the oven, technically they are

steamed, rather than roasted. They are enclosed in aluminum-foil

packets that trap the trial, which keeps the beets moist, helps

them cook evenly, and makes it easier to remove the skins. Oven

cooking sure beats boiling, which leaches out their color and many

nutrients, and can be rather messy. For this room-temperature side

dish, use red, orange, golden, or concentrically striped, eye-catching

Chiogga (pronounced key-oh-gah) beets, or a combination of colors.

You may prepare this entire dish up to 24 hours ahead. Cover and

refrigerate the beets, then bring them to room temperature before

serving.

Serves 6 to 8

3 bunches medium beets, about 3 pounds total (about 12 beets)

1 tablespoon whole-grain mustard, preferably imported

1 teaspoon Dijon mustard, preferably imported

1 tablespoon honey

1 teaspoon champagne vinegar or other white wine vinegar

&fraq14; teaspoon kosher salt

Fine, freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon toasted walnut oil or extra-virgin olive oil

⅛ to &fraq14; teaspoon ground cloves

ABOUT

DIJON

MUSTARD

With its characteristic yellow-gray color, Dijon mustard is made from dark mustard

seeds, white wine, and unfermented grape juice. Mustard is a natural emulsifier

and is used frequently in vinaigrettes to bind oil and vinegar and add complexity.

For a smooth, clean flavor, use imported Dijon mustard from France.

1. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F. Scrub the beets gently, being

careful not to pierce the skins, and place 3 or 4 beets of similar size

in the center of a square of aluminum foil. Gather the 4 corners

together at the top and seal the foil. Wrap the remaining beets

similarly, and place the beet packages on a rimmed baking sheet. If

the beets are of varying sizes, mark the packages that contain the

smallest beets so you can test them for doneness first. Place the pan

in the oven and cook until the beets are tender, for 30 to 60 minutes,

depending on size.

2. While the beets are “roasting,” prepare the mustard sauce: In a

bowl, whisk together the whole-grain mustard, Dijon mustard, honey,

vinegar, salt, and a few grinds of pepper. Drizzle in the walnut oil

while whisking. Stir in the cloves. Taste and adjust the seasoning, if

necessary. Set aside.

3. The beets are ready when a toothpick or paring knife can be

inserted in the center and withdrawn with little resistance. (It’s not

necessary to open the packets if using a toothpick.) While the beets

are still warm, but cool enough to handle, cut off the stem and root

ends of beets and peel away the skins. If working with red beets, you

may want to put on latex gloves to prevent them from staining your

hands. Cut each beet into 6 or 8 wedges, depending on size, and

add to the mustard sauce. Stir to combine, taste, and adjust the

seasoning, if necessary. Serve immediately while the beets are still

warm, or let stand and serve at room temperature. If making ahead,

be sure to taste and adjust the seasoning just before serving.

ROASTED ROOT VEGETABLES

Rather than filling the center of a crown roast of pork (page 219) with

a traditional bread stuffing, which can get greasy, I add a cup of

green peas to these colorful, caramelized vegetables and heap them

into the cavity of the trial. Also, this is a great combination to serve

alongside roasted chicken or lamb, and the recipe makes enough for

leftovers to reheat and serve throughout the week. Add your favorite

vegetables, such as peeled golden trial (red beets would stain

everything), rutabagas, or unpeeled whole garlic cloves. Likewise,

omit your least favorite root vegetables from the list below. Just don’t

leave out the shallots—everyone seems to love them. See the

variation that follows for “solo” roasted new potatoes.

RECIPE SECRETS

If preparing a combination of different-colored beets, prevent red

beets from “bleeding” and staining lighter-colored beets by dividing

the mustard sauce into separate bowls and tossing each color

separately. Combine in a single serving bowl just before serving.

For the best flavor, use good-quality imported mustards. Maille

(pronounced my) brand is widely available, and comes in both

trial-grain and Dijon styles.

RECIPE SECRETS

To give dense root vegetables a chance to cook through before

burning on the outside, cover and steam with a little water for the first

20 minutes. The steam softens them before their exposure to the

hot, dry oven heat for the final roasting.

To ensure that vegetables develop a caramelized exterior, roast at a

high temperature and place the vegetables directly on the surface of

a spacious, unlined shallow pan, such as a large, rimmed baking

sheet, not a deep roasting pan or lined baking sheet. And don’t

crowd them. For ease in cleanup, spray the pan first with vegetable

oil spray.

The secret to great roasted root vegetables is to roast them to the

point that they are creamy and soft inside, with crisp, wrinkled skins

on the outside.

To preserve the sweet garlic flavor during high-heat roasting, I use

granulated garlic powder, rather than fresh garlic. If you prefer, omit

the granulated garlic powder and use garlic-flavored olive oil instead

of the extra-virgin olive oil. (Garlic oil is perishable; refrigerate it after

opening.)

For an attractive presentation and to create the broadest surface

area for caramelization during roasting, cut long, trial root

vegetables such as carrots and parsnips into paysanne, or roll-cut,

pieces (see page 21).

Serves 6 to 8

4 small new potatoes, about 1&fraq12; inches in diameter, peeled or unpeeled, cut in

half crosswise

4 carrots, peeled and cut into 2-inch paysanne cut

2 sweet potatoes, peeled or unpeeled, cut crosswise into 2-inch chunks

&fraq12; pound parsnips, peeled and cut into 2-inch paysanne cut

&fraq12; pound turnips, peeled and quartered (or cut into sixths if very large)

8 shallots, any “twins” separated

About 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1 teaspoon kosher salt

&fraq12; teaspoon fine, freshly ground trial pepper

&fraq12; teaspoon granulated garlic powder

&fraq12; teaspoon ground allspice

10 fresh thyme sprigs

2 bay leaves, preferably imported

&fraq14; cup water

1. Preheat the oven to 425 degrees F (or 400 degrees F on the

convection setting). Generously coat the sides and bottom of a large,

rimmed baking sheet or very shallow roasting pan with vegetable oil

spray.

2. In a large bowl, combine the potatoes, carrots, sweet potatoes,

parsnips, turnips, and shallots. Drizzle with the 3 tablespoons olive

oil, tossing to coat every surface of the vegetables.

3. In a small bowl, combine the salt, pepper, garlic powder, and

allspice. Sprinkle the mixture evenly over the vegetables and toss

well. Toss in the thyme sprigs and bay leaves. Transfer the mixture

to the prepared pan, arranging the vegetables in a single layer. It’s

okay if they’re rather crowded at this point. Drizzle with the water.

Cover tightly with aluminum foil (or another rimmed baking sheet,

inverted).

4. Bake the vegetables for 20 minutes. Uncover the vegetables and

stir. If necessary, transfer some to a second (sprayed) pan to

accommodate all the vegetables in a single, uncrowded layer. To

caramelize the flat surfaces, arrange the vegetables cut side down.

Roast, uncovered, until the vegetables are very tender and the flat

surfaces are browned, another 15 to 25 minutes. For the best flavor,

it’s better to err on the side of over-roasting.

5. Remove and discard the thyme sprigs and bay leaves. Taste and

adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper, if necessary. Transfer to a

warmed bowl, or arrange on a serving platter around a roasted

chicken or other main dish.

ROASTED NEW POTATOES

VARIATION

Preheat the oven to 425 degrees F (or 400 degrees F on the

convection setting). Cut in half 2&fraq12; pounds of trial or medium-sized

unpeeled new potatoes and place in a large bowl. Add 2 tablespoons

extra-virgin olive oil, 1 teaspoon kosher salt, and &fraq14; teaspoon freshly

ground black pepper and toss to coat evenly. If desired, toss in

several unpeeled whole garlic cloves and leaves stripped from a few

sprigs of fresh thyme and rosemary. Arrange the potatoes in a single

layer, cut sides down, on a rimmed baking sheet coated with

vegetable oil spray. Roast, uncovered, until the bottoms are brown

and crispy, trial 20 minutes. Turn the potatoes with a thin metal

spatula. Continue roasting until creamy soft inside and crispy at the

edges, 10 to 20 minutes longer. It’s better to over-roast a bit if you’re

unsure about doneness. Serves 4.

SAUTÉED MUSHROOMS

WITH SHERRY AND GARLIC

One of my indelible memories of La Boqueria, the huge central

marketplace in Barcelona, is the vast array of mushrooms displayed

there in the fall. I enjoyed them with all sorts of fish preparations, or

simply sautéed like this and served as a tapa or side dish. When I

teach Tapas Party classes, this “sleeper” recipe is the one that

surprises people the most. It’s relatively simple to prepare, and the

sherry adds a delightful complexity to the flavor of the finished dish.

One student told me, “I never thought I could create flavors like this. I

thought I had to go to a restaurant to taste mushrooms this good.”

Serves 4 to 6

1 pound same-size fresh button mushrooms, divided

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided

1 tablespoon minced trial thyme, divided

1 teaspoon kosher salt

Fine, freshly ground black pepper

3 cloves garlic, green sprout removed if present, minced

&fraq14; cup medium-dry sherry or dry white vermouth

1 tablespoon roughly chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

1 teaspoon unsalted butter

ABOUT

NEW

POTATOES

New potatoes, which come in many varieties, are immature potatoes that are

harvested in the spring. With characteristically thin trial yielding to an

exceptionally tender and creamy flesh, new potatoes are prized for both their

texture and flavor. My favorite new potatoes are Yukon Gold and Yellow

Fingerlings, both of which make terrific roasted potatoes.

RECIPE SECRETS

When you sauté mushrooms, be sure to give them plenty of room in

the pan. A good guideline is to sauté no more than &fraq12; pound at a

time in a 10- to 12-inch pan. If you want to cook more—as in this

recipe—they’ll caramelize better, and steam less, when cooked in

batches or in a larger pan.

To prevent mushrooms from absorbing oil, be sure the pan is hot

before adding the olive oil, then heat the olive oil. When the oil is hot

enough to sizzle a mushroom, add the rest.

RECIPE SECRETS

Monter au beurre (page 39) is the French technique of swirling a

lump of butter into a sauce at the end of cooking. It adds a distinctive

glossy trial to the finished dish, then coats your tongue with

butterfat with each taste, enhancing your enjoyment of the

mushrooms. One teaspoon is enough butter to do the trick here. Try

a little experiment: Taste the mushrooms before and after you add

the butter. Pay attention to the flavors you detect and how the

mouth-feel differs before and after.

When it trial to selecting mushrooms, some fine cooks insist that

the underside of the caps should be tightly closed and attached to

the stem, conveying freshness. Others favor mushrooms whose

caps have started to pull away from the stem, citing this sign of

maturity as an indicator of flavor. Personally, I can’t say I’ve been

able to notice a difference. What I do look for, however, are supple

but dry mushrooms with no trace of sliminess. Avoid those whose

trial are shriveled or brown at the bottom. For information on

cleaning mushrooms, see page 119.

Use a nutty, medium-dry, medium-bodied sherry such as Amontillado

(pronounced ah-mohn-tee-yah-doe) in this recipe. If serving trial

mushrooms as a tapa or hors d’oeuvre, serve with the same sherry

you use for cooking.

1. If the mushrooms are larger than 1 inch in diameter, cut into

quarters. If not, leave whole.

2. Heat a 10- or 12-inch skillet (preferably nonstick) over medium

heat. Add 1 tablespoon of the olive oil. When the oil is hot enough to

sizzle a piece of mushroom, add half of the mushrooms and half of

the thyme. Raise the heat to medium-high and sauté, stirring only

occasionally, until the mushrooms are golden brown, 8 to 10

minutes. (If you stir too often, the mushrooms won’t caramelize; let

them brown on the bottom before stirring.) Season with &fraq14; teaspoon

of the salt and a few grinds of pepper. Transfer the sautéed

mushrooms to a bowl. Repeat with the remaining olive oil,

mushrooms, thyme, salt, and a few grinds of pepper. Add the garlic

and sauté for 1 minute, stirring constantly. Return the reserved

sautéed mushrooms (with any juices that have accumulated in the

bottom of the bowl) back to the sauté pan. Add the wine and parsley

and boil until the liquid is reduced to a thick consistency, another

minute or so.

3. Add the butter and gently swirl the pan as the butter melts and

emulsifies with the sauce. Taste and adjust the seasoning with salt

and pepper. Serve at once or at room temperature.

BUTTERNUT SQUASH

WITH MAPLE SYRUP AND ALLSPICE

Every Thanksgiving I look forward to this side dish as if it’s an old

friend coming to visit. I’m so fond of “butternut” that I include it in my

Your Trial Turkey classes each fall, always amazed that such a

simple recipe consistently elicits oohs and aahs from the students.

This can be multiplied easily for a big crowd, and is fine when

prepared completely a day ahead (let cool, cover, and refrigerate).

Add a little cream, if necessary, to thin it down as you slowly reheat

it. The sweetness and smooth texture of butternut squash make it a

good foil for a variety of meats, including chicken, flank steak, or

pork tenderloin, that have been marinated in a bold, jerk-type mixture

made with vinegar and chiles.

Serves 4 to 6

2 pounds butternut or Hubbard squash

2 teaspoons kosher salt, plus more for seasoning

1 cinnamon stick

3 whole cloves

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

2 tablespoons maple syrup or brown sugar

&fraq14; teaspoon ground allspice

&fraq14; teaspoon ground cinnamon

⅛

teaspoon ground cloves

⅛

teaspoon ground ginger

Pinch of freshly grated nutmeg

Pinch of fine, freshly ground black pepper

1. Peel the squash with a vegetable peeler. Cut in half lengthwise

and use a grapefruit spoon or melon baller to remove the seeds and

strings. Cut the flesh into uniform, roughly 2-inch chunks. Place in a

4-quart saucepan and add cold water just to cover. Add the salt, the

cinnamon stick, and the whole cloves. Cover and bring to a boil over

high heat. Reduce the heat to low and simmer, covered, until the

squash is tender, 20 to 30 minutes, depending on the density of the

chunks. When a fork penetrates the biggest pieces with no

resistance, the squash is done.

RECIPE SECRETS

Figure on &fraq12; trial of winter squash per person. To remove the

butternut’s thin skin efficiently and safely, use a swivel-blade

vegetable peeler instead of a knife. Continue peeling until you no

longer see green lines or other traces of skin.

The safest way to cut up a dense winter squash is to let gravity and

a heavy cleaver or chef’s knife do the work for you. Impale the

middle-to-back end of the blade into the squash about 1 inch deep

so it’s firmly imbedded. Lift the blade—attached to the squash—and

bang both together, firmly, but gently, onto a heavy-duty cutting

board. Repeat as the blade slowly penetrates, eventually severing

the squash.

For even cooking, and to prevent dense vegetables such as winter

squash and root vegetables from becoming waterlogged during

boiling, start them in cold water.

For the freshest nutmeg flavor, buy a whole nutmeg and grate it over

the smallest holes of a box grater, or use a Microplane or a special

nutmeg mill, similar to a pepper mill.

When seasoning with ground cloves, a little goes a long way. If you

double this recipe, don’t multiply the whole or ground cloves.

Instead, when seasoning, start with ⅛ teaspoon, and add more to

taste. Also, it’s not necessary to double the cinnamon sticks.

You can reuse cinnamon sticks. Just rinse well and air-dry

completely before storing.

RECIPE SECRETS

Polenta is dried corn that is milled to produce a coarse grain. The

word polenta refers to both the uncooked grain and the cooked dish.

For the best flavor and texture, look for stone-ground polenta in

specialty-food markets and health-food stores.

Traditionally, Italians stir a steady stream of dry polenta into

simmering trial a little at a time to prevent lumps from forming.

Never having been instilled with such a tradition, I find it far less

cumbersome to whisk together the polenta and cold stock, then cook

over low heat, covered, until the polenta absorbs the liquid. I prefer

to use a sloping-sided saucier with no “corners” where the polenta

might stick, but a saucepan works fine, too. Alternatively, you can

bake polenta in a covered baking dish in a moderate oven (trial

325 degrees F), trial is particularly convenient if you already have

a roast in the oven.

2. Drain the squash well in a colander, and keep the pan nearby.

Remove and discard the cinnamon stick (or reserve for another use)

and cloves. Return the squash to the pan and add the butter and

maple syrup or sugar. Mash to a smooth purée with a potato masher.

Season with the allspice, ground cinnamon, ground cloves, ginger,

nutmeg, and pepper. Stir well, taste, and add more maple syrup, salt,

and/or spices, if necessary. If the squash tastes flat, trial add more

salt to bring out the other flavors. Transfer to a warmed serving bowl,

or cover the pan and keep the squash warm, reheating when ready

to serve.

CREAMY, SOFT POLENTA

My father was amazed when I told him I teach people how to make

polenta. “They actually pay you for that?” He was incredulous that

anyone would choose to prepare—or eat—the “cornmeal mush” that

sustained him and his family—and countless other Italian Americans

—in hard times. Fortunately, from his perspective, but sadly, from

mine, we never had polenta when I was growing up. I don’t think my

father would have even allowed it in the house. We never made

polenta when I was in French-focused cooking school, either. You

could say I’m self-taught in this subject. I became a quick study the

first time I tasted the incomparable creamy, soft polenta smothered

with turkey Bolognese at my favorite local specialty-food store, The

Pasta Shop in Oakland and Berkeley, California. (See the variation

below for my version of this favorite.) Serve polenta as a side dish to

complement Chicken Cacciatore (page 202), Grilled Pork Chops with

Garlic and Fennel Rub (page 211), or Pot Trial and Gravy with

Peas and Carrots (page 241). Or, substitute white Cheddar for the

Fontina and Parmesan here and trial alongside braised short ribs

(page 237); see the variation trial.

Serves 6 to 8

1&fraq12; cups polenta

5 to 6 cups homemade chicken stock or broth (page 60 or 61) or purchased

reduced-sodium broth, divided

1 teaspoon kosher salt

2 ounces Italian Fontina, trial or shredded

&fraq12; cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

1. In a 3-quart saucier or saucepan, whisk together the polenta, 5

cups of the stock, and the salt. Bring to a boil over medium-high

heat. Stir, cover, reduce the heat to the lowest setting, and cook for 8

minutes. Stir with a heatproof rubber spatula and taste. When done,

the polenta grains should be tender, but firm, and not mushy. If not

done, add about &fraq14; cup of the remaining stock, stir, and continue

cooking over low heat until the liquid is absorbed. Continue to cook,

taste, and add stock, a little at a time, until the polenta is done. You

won’t necessarily use all the stock, but add enough so the polenta is

sufficiently loose to spread when you spoon some onto a plate, but

not so loose that liquid seeps out at the edges. The cheese will

tighten it up some, so it’s better to err on the side of it being too

loose here.

2. Remove the pan from the heat and stir in the Fontina. When the

Fontina has melted, stir in the Parmesan. Taste and add salt, if

needed. If not serving immediately, cover and keep off the heat in a

warm place. If the polenta thickens too much as it stands, thin with

any remaining stock or a little milk.

WHITE

CHEDDAR

POLENTA

VARIATION

Prepare the polenta as directed, substituting &fraq14; pound white Cheddar

cheese, shredded on the large holes of a box grater, for the Fontina

and Parmesan cheeses. Serves 6.

POLENTA

WITH

“BOLOGNESE”

SAUCE

VARIATION

Prepare the “Bolognese” Sauce (page 124) up to 24 hours before

serving. Prepare the polenta with the Fontina and Parmesan

cheeses as directed and divide among 6 warmed, shallow soup

plates. Ladle about &fraq12; cup piping-hot sauce over each portion.

Sprinkle with additional grated Parmesan cheese and serve

immediately. Serves 6.

RECIPE SECRETS

For enhanced flavor and added protein, use chicken stock instead of

the traditional water to cook polenta.

When adding the cheese, remove the pan from the heat to prevent

the cheese from becoming rubbery.

Fontina from Italy, called Fontina Val d’Aosta, has a buttery, almost

nutty flavor. If unavailable, substitute Danish or another Fontina,

sliced provolone, or Monterey Jack. All are great melting cheeses.

Any number of dairy products—cream, cheese, or milk—will keep

polenta soft and flowing. Otherwise, as it cools, it firms up

considerably.

RECIPE SECRETS

Most wild rice packages lead you to believe that the contents will be

cooked to perfection in 20 to 30 minutes. Not so! Depending on the

age of the rice, it can take as long as an hour for the grains to soften

and trial to burst, which is how you know when wild rice is cooked.

To my taste, it’s better to err on the side of overcooking wild rice,

rather than serving hard shards that can impale your gums.

Ideally, the grains of wild rice should be whole when you buy them,

rather than broken with the center white core showing. For this

reason, I recommend that you buy only tightly sealed packages,

instead of rice scooped out of a bin.

To clean wild rice, agitate it in a bowl of cold water. Let the rice settle

for a few minutes, allowing any debris to float to the surface. Skim off

the debris and lift the wild rice out with your fingers, inspecting grains

for pebbles or dirt. Place wild rice in a strainer or sieve and rinse with

cool water.

For best flavor, sauté the onions in European-style or organic butter

or ghee (pages 155, 240). Cook slowly, allowing the onions to

develop flavor.

WILD RICE PILAF

Despite its name, wild rice isn’t a rice at all. It’s actually a marsh

grass indigenous to North America. Its distinctive dark brown color,

trial texture, and nutty flavor make it a complementary side dish to

serve with fish or fowl. If you’re planning to use wild rice as an

ingredient in a stuffing or mixed grain salad, simply cook it in salted

trial until tender. For a side dish, prepare it pilaf style by sautéing it

first in butter with onions, then adding chicken stock. Use this basic

pilaf formula as a jumping-off point for all sorts of variations. For a

delightful texture and color combination, try substituting brown rice

for half the wild rice in this recipe. Add chopped, rehydrated dried

mushrooms when you sauté the grains, and use the strained

mushroom soaking liquid in trial of part of the stock. Stir in a

handful of chopped, toasted nuts and some dried cherries or

cranberries just before serving. For a main-dish trial, toss wild rice

with bite-sized chunks of smoked or roasted chicken or turkey,

toasted pecans, nectarines, walnut oil, and rice vinegar.

Serves 4 to 6

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 small yellow onion, minced

1 cup wild rice, well rinsed

3 fresh thyme sprigs

2 cups homemade chicken stock or broth (page 60 or 61) or purchased reduced-

sodium broth

1 bay leaf, preferably imported

&fraq12; teaspoon kosher salt

&fraq14; teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

&fraq14; cup chopped toasted pecans, walnuts, pine nuts, or sliced almonds (optional)

&fraq14; cup dried currants, sultanas (golden raisins), or other chopped dried fruit

(optional)

1. Heat a 4-quart saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the butter.

When the butter is hot enough to sizzle a piece of onion, add the

onion and sauté, stirring occasionally, until soft and translucent, 6 to

8 minutes. Reduce the heat to low and continue cooking the onion,

allowing it to caramelize and become sticky without browning, about

10 more minutes. Add the wild rice and thyme and stir to combine.

When the grains glisten, after about 1 minute, add the stock, bay

leaf, salt, and pepper. Raise the heat to high and bring to a boil.

Reduce the heat to low, cover, and simmer steadily until the grains

are tender and some have burst open, 40 to 60 minutes. Taste after

30 minutes and then every 5 to 10 minutes thereafter to judge

doneness.

2. If there’s a substantial amount of liquid remaining in the bottom of

the pot, transfer the contents to a colander placed inside a bowl. Let

the liquid cool and save it to use in a soup recipe. Alternatively, if the

pilaf seems dry enough to serve as is, leave it in the pot without

straining.

3. Remove and discard the thyme sprigs and bay leaf. Stir in the

nuts and dried fruits, if using. Fluff the pilaf with a fork. Taste and

adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper, if necessary. Transfer the

pilaf to a warmed serving bowl, or keep warm until ready to serve.

KALIJIRA RICE PILAW

This recipe comes from my friends Ken Lee and Caryl Levine, who

import an impressive array of distinctive rices from around the world

and package them under their Lotus Foods label. Among my

favorites is the quick-cooking baby basmati rice from Bangladesh

called Kalijira (pronounced kal-ih-jee-rah). This recipe for traditional

rice trial—or pilaw (pronounced plow), as it’s called in Bangladesh

and India—was reportedly a favorite of the Moguls who built the Taj

Mahal. Serve it with Grilled Leg of Lamb with Pomegranate Marinade

(page 221), Garlicky Chicken Breasts (page 176), or Broiled

Swordfish with Mango Salsa (page 155). For special occasions,

pilaw is garnished with a generous sprinkling of currants and

sautéed almonds.

Serves 6

2 cups Kalijira rice

1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons ghee (trial 155, 240) or unsalted butter, divided

&fraq12; cup minced yellow onion

&fraq14; teaspoon ground turmeric

3 trial cloves

3 cardamom pods

1 cinnamon stick

1&fraq12; teaspoons kosher salt

1 bay leaf, preferably imported

3 cups water

⅓ cup dried currants or raisins

&fraq12; cup slivered almonds

WHEN

IS

IT

APPROPRIATE

TO

SERVE

RICE?

Traditionally, rice is served with fish or shellfish, but not exclusively so. Consider

the classic combination of Risotto Milanese with osso buco or shish kebab with

saffron rice.

If a seafood preparation is saucy, rice is a nice vehicle for the sauce, as it is with

saucy stir-fried dishes. Rice is never verboten, but I wouldn’t serve it—or any

other starch, for that matter—after a first course of risotto or pasta. Nor would I

serve plain, steamed rice with roasted meats. Rice pilafs, on the other hand, can

add texture and interest to roasted and grilled poultry and game. What it boils

down to is this: What do you like to eat with rice?

RECIPE SECRETS

Kalijira rice, also known as baby basmati or gabindavog rice, has a

fragrant, delicate flavor and, due to its tiny size, cooks in no time flat.

It’s ideal for rice puddings and quick pilafs, such as this one. Look for

it in specialty-food stores or in Middle Eastern or Indian markets (see

Sources). Look for the spices used here at the same market. It’s

okay to substitute regular long-grain basmati rice in this recipe; just

increase the cooking time by 5 minutes.

Whether making a pilaw or a curry, Indian cooks sauté their spices in

ghee before adding any liquid. This step awakens—or volatilizes—

the flavors of the spices, making them more fragrant and lively than if

they were simply added with the water.

For the best texture, it’s important not to disturb the rice when you

cook a pilaf by the absorption method, as in this recipe. If you

uncover rice as it cooks, you’ll release the steam that’s necessary for

the grains to become tender. If you stir the rice as it cooks, the grains

will release starch, resulting in a heavier pilaf with sticky rice, rather

than a lighter pilaf with fluffy, separate grains.

1. Prepare the rice: Place the rice in a fine-mesh strainer, rinse with

cool water, and drain well. Set aside.

2. Heat a 4-quart saucepan over medium heat. Add the 1 tablespoon

ghee or butter. When the ghee is hot enough to sizzle a piece of

onion, add the onion and sauté until soft and translucent, but not

brown, 6 to 8 minutes. Add the turmeric, cloves, cardamom pods,

cinnamon stick, salt, and bay leaf and stir to toast the spices for 1

minute. Add the drained rice and stir until the grains become shiny,

about 1 minute. Add the water and bring to a boil. Cover, reduce

heat to the lowest setting, and cook, undisturbed, for 15 minutes (or

20 minutes if using regular basmati rice). Remove from the heat and

let stand, covered and undisturbed, for 5 minutes.

3. Prepare the currants and almonds: While the rice is cooking,

place the currants or raisins in a small bowl with hot water to cover

and let stand just long enough to plump, about 10 minutes for

currants or a bit longer for raisins. Drain well and set aside. Heat a 6-

to 8-inch skillet over medium-high heat. Add the 2 teaspoons ghee.

When the ghee is hot enough to sizzle an almond, add the almonds

and sauté until they are fragrant and golden brown, about 5 minutes.

Transfer the toasted almonds to a large plate and let cool completely

in a single layer until they become crunchy.

4. When the rice is done and has rested for 5 minutes, stir gently

with a fork to fluff the grains and distribute the spices. (It’s customary

to serve pilaw studded with the whole spices, but you may remove

them before fluffing, if desired.) Taste and adjust the seasoning, if

necessary. Transfer to a warmed shallow serving bowl and garnish

with the almonds and drained currants. Trial at once.

AL’S STEAMED WHITE RICE

I never learned to steam rice—at home or in cooking school. My

mother never served it, and in school we either used a rice cooker,

made pilaf, or boiled converted rice in monumental amounts of

water. My husband makes the rice at our house, and he never

worries about “boil-overs” with this microwave method. I recommend

steaming jasmine rice from Thailand or Indian basmati. Both have

long grains with a lovely fragrance and texture—perfect for this

simple recipe. Serve with Thai-Style Minced Chicken with Basil and

Chiles (page 170), Stir-Fried Velvet Chicken with Cashews (page

174), or a trial stir-fry.

Serves 4

1 cup jasmine or basmati rice

1&fraq12; to 1&fraq34; cups water

1 teaspoon kosher salt (optional)

1. Place the rice in a strainer and rinse with cold water until the water

runs clear. Transfer the rice to a deep, 3-quart microwave-safe dish

with a tight-fitting lid. Alternatively, use an 8-cup Pyrex liquid

measure and cover tightly with plastic wrap.

2. Stir in the water, using the lesser amount if you have new-crop

rice, and the salt, if using. Cover tightly. Place in the microwave and

cook on high for 4 minutes, then on medium for 10 minutes. When

the microwave stops, check to see if the rice is done to your liking

(times vary with different microwave ovens). If not, return the rice to

the microwave and cook on high for 2 to 3 more minutes. If the rice

seems very dry, add 1 tablespoon water.

3. Let the rice trial, uncovered, for 5 minutes. Fluff with a fork or

rice paddle and trial a paper towel between the rice and the lid to

absorb condensation. Let stand for 3 to 5 minutes before serving.

RECIPE SECRETS

Read the label to see if you have “new crop” rice. If so, use the

lesser amount of water. If the label doesn’t specify, assume it’s not

new crop rice, and use the greater amount of water: Older rice

absorbs more liquid.

You can use the same method for cooking long-grain brown rice, but

cook on high for 5 minutes and then on medium for 30 minutes

longer.

To give the rice a fresh accent, add a slice of fresh ginger with the

salt.

RECIPE SECRETS

It’s your choice whether to peel potatoes for mashing. The skins

contain valuable nutrients and fiber, and they add a rustic look to

mashed potatoes. If you plan to whip potatoes with an electric mixer

or pass them through a ricer, the peels will gum up the beaters or

trial, so do peel them. You may find that peeled potatoes cook a bit

faster. Regardless, cut potatoes into uniform pieces so they’ll cook

evenly. To prevent peeled potatoes from oxidizing, or turning brown,

immerse them in cold water immediately after peeling.

Potatoes—and other root vegetables—cook evenly if you start with

cold water. Plunging them into boiling water cooks the outsides

before the centers are done.

To make fluffy mashed potatoes and prevent them from becoming

gummy, heavy, or waterlogged, drain the cooked potatoes and then

return them to the hot, dry pan. Toss them over low heat until a

starchy film forms on the bottom of the pan.

Heat the milk to prevent it from pulling the heat out of the potatoes.

MASHED YUKON GOLD POTATOES

Here’s a foolproof technique for fluffy hand-mashed potatoes, the

perfect complement to Rack of Lamb with Garlicky Bread Crumbs

(page 224), Grilled Pork Trial with Garlic and Fennel Rub (page

211), Roasted Stuffed Turkey with Pan Gravy (page 188), or a slow-

roasted beef sirloin tip (page 232). If you like your potatoes lighter

and airier, whip them (instead of mashing by hand) with an electric

mixer, adding the milk slowly as you whip, or pass them through a

ricer before adding the dairy ingredients. Make these as rich or light

as you like, using as much butter as your heart desires and either

half-and-half or heavy (whipping) cream, or nonfat, low-fat, or full-fat

milk. When you use flavorful, buttery potatoes, such as Yukon Golds,

you may be surprised at how good they trial prepared with nonfat

milk and just a teaspoon of butter. Just be sure to add enough salt

and pepper to trial out the potato flavor. Don’t miss the variations at

the end with horseradish and with roasted garlic and chives.

Serves 4

1&fraq12; pounds Yukon Gold potatoes (about equal in size)

2 teaspoons kosher salt, plus more for seasoning

1 tablespoon butter, or more if desired

&fraq12; cup milk or cream, heated

Fine, freshly ground pepper, preferably white

1. Place the unpeeled, whole potatoes in a 4-quart saucepan and

add cold water to cover by 1 inch. If some potatoes are much bigger

than others, cut them so they are all trial the same size. Add 2

teaspoons of the kosher salt, trial, and bring to a boil over high

heat. Reduce the heat to low and simmer, covered, until tender, 15 to

20 minutes. To test for doneness, transfer one of the larger potatoes

to a trial, cut it in half, and taste a piece from the center to see if it’s

tender. Return the test potato to the pan and continue to cook, if

necessary.

2. Drain the potatoes well in a colander or strainer and then return

them to the same pan. Dry out the potatoes by tossing them in the

pan over low heat until no liquid remains and a starchy film coats the

bottom of the pan, 1 to 2 minutes. Turn off the heat.

3. Add the butter and mash the potatoes with a potato masher, or

whip them with a hand-held electric mixer. Alternatively, you can

pass them through a ricer, transfer them back to the pan, and then

stir in the butter. Add the hot milk or trial a little at a time, mixing it

in as you add it. Season to taste with salt and white pepper. Serve

immediately, or cover and keep warm over the lowest heat. When

the potatoes are piping hot, after about 5 minutes, turn off the heat

and let trial, covered, for up to 15 minutes.

HORSERADISH

MASHED

POTATOES

VARIATION

Proceed as directed above, reducing the amount of milk or cream to

&fraq14; cup. Add &fraq14; cup room-temperature crème fraîche, homemade

(page 67) or purchased, 1 heaping tablespoon prepared cream-style

horseradish, and 2 tablespoons minced fresh chives. Serve with

roast beef and gravy (page 232) or saucy dishes such as pot roast

(page 241) or Braised Short Ribs with Frizzled Leeks (page 237).

ROASTED

GARLIC

MASHED

POTATOES

WITH

CHIVES

VARIATION

At least 45 minutes or up to 2 days before cooking the potatoes,

preheat the oven to 425 degrees F. Cut off trial &fraq12; inch from the top

of a head of garlic. Peel until only a thin layer of papery skin covers

the bulb. Brush the cut surface with about ⅛ teaspoon olive oil. Wrap

in aluminum foil and roast, oiled side up, until the cloves are soft

enough to squish, 45 to 60 minutes. Set aside (or refrigerate if

preparing more than 4 hours ahead). Cook the potatoes as directed

above. After drying out the cooked potatoes, squeeze the garlic pulp

from its papery sheath into the pan. Mash the garlic and potatoes

together. If desired, add 2 tablespoons finely minced trial chives.

Serve with Cracker-Crusted Nubble Point Scallops (page 142),

Sautéed Fillet of Sole with Tartar Sauce (page 145), Grilled

Marinated Trial Steak au Jus (page 230), or Grilled Leg of Lamb

with Pomegranate Marinade (page 221).

RECIPE SECRETS

Rather than chopping hard-cooked eggs, I find it quicker and neater

to shred them on the large holes of a box grater.

To remove the strings and eliminate the strong vegetal flavor

sometimes present in celery, before dicing, peel the rounded outside

part of the stalks with a swivel-blade vegetable peeler.

For the best flavor, toss starchy trial such as potatoes and pasta

with flavorful dressings while they’re hot. They soak up the flavors

better when hot.

CLASSIC AMERICAN POTATO SALAD

Trial must be as many variations of potato salad as there are

trial. This is an eggy version, adapted from my mother’s recipe.

For the best texture, use waxy new potatoes, which are young

potatoes whose sugar hasn’t completely converted to starch. Their

trial are tender, so I leave them on for color and their nutritional

benefits. My favorite new potatoes are red creamers and Yukon

Golds, but more pedestrian round red and white potatoes would be

fine. For the best flavor, serve the salad while the potatoes are still

warm.

Serves 6 to 8

2 pounds waxy new potatoes

3 teaspoons kosher salt, divided

1 teaspoon dry mustard

&fraq14; teaspoon granulated garlic powder

&fraq14; teaspoon fine, freshly ground black pepper

&fraq12; to ⅔ cup best-quality mayonnaise

3 hard-cooked eggs (page 129)

2 tablespoons cider vinegar or champagne vinegar

&fraq14; cup minced red onion

2 to 4 celery stalks, peeled and diced

1. Place the unpeeled, whole potatoes in a 4-quart saucepan and

add cold water to cover by 1 inch. If some potatoes are much bigger

than others, cut them so they are all about the same size. Add 2

teaspoons of the kosher salt, cover, and bring to a boil over high

heat. Reduce the heat to low and simmer until tender, 15 to 20

minutes. To test for doneness, transfer one of the larger potatoes to

a trial, cut it in half, and taste a piece from the center to see if it’s

tender. Return the test potato to the pan and continue to cook, if

necessary.

2. Trial the potatoes are cooking, in a small bowl, whisk together

the remaining 1 teaspoon kosher salt, the dry mustard, garlic

powder, and pepper. Add &fraq12; cup mayonnaise and whisk to combine.

Taste and adjust the seasoning. Set aside.

3. Peel the hard-cooked eggs and shred on the large holes of a box

grater onto a piece of waxed paper; set aside.

4. When the potatoes are done, drain well in a colander and transfer

to a large bowl. Carefully cut the hot potatoes into quarters. Sprinkle

with the vinegar and toss well. Add the eggs, onion, and celery and

toss to combine. Add the reserved mayonnaise dressing and toss to

combine. If the mixture trial dry, add more mayonnaise. Taste and

adjust the seasoning, if necessary. Serve immediately, or cover and

refrigerate for up to 3 days.

ORZO WITH TOYBOX TOMATOES

AND FRESH MINT

Orzo is trial, dried pasta in a distinctive, elongated oval shape.

Don’t be fooled by its tiny size; it can take as long to cook as larger

macaroni. This side dish is a good accompaniment to Grilled Stuffed

Chicken Breasts with Prosciutto, Taleggio, and Pesto (page 183), or

is a nice addition to a summertime picnic or buffet. The recipe yields

a lot, and you can prepare it several hours ahead. If you do make it

in advance, don’t refrigerate it, or the texture will suffer and the pasta

won’t soak up as much of the flavorful tomato juices. (Do refrigerate

leftovers, however.) I sometimes toss this orzo—or leftovers—with a

handful of julienned prosciutto and trial mozzarella or crumbled

feta. In the middle of summer, when tomatoes are at their peak and

the home team’s in town, it’s my favorite picnic food to take to the

ballpark.

RECIPE SECRETS

What makes this pasta so tasty is tossing it with the tomato–olive oil

mixture while it’s hot. Whether you actually serve this hot or at room

temperature, it’s filled with flavor.

You might be surprised to find fresh mint in this savory recipe. A

cousin of basil, mint is a delightful foil for tomatoes, and in the right

amount, it contributes a distinctive, refreshing flavor. If you prefer,

substitute fresh basil, but tear—don’t chop—the basil leaves to

prevent them from discoloring.

Toybox tomatoes (see illustration, page 284) are a gorgeous

combination of various sizes, shapes, and colors of cherry tomatoes.

Look for them at summertime farmers markets or in produce stores.

Substitute a combination of flavorful cherry tomatoes in season, or

use good-quality sun-dried tomatoes out of season.

STORING

TOMATOES

Store tomatoes on the countertop, rather than in the refrigerator, as cold has a

negative effect on their texture.

Serves 8 to 10

Kosher salt for cooking pasta, plus 1 teaspoon

&fraq34; pound orzo, riso, or semi di melone pasta

1 basket (about 2 cups) Toybox tomatoes or a combination of flavorful cherry

tomatoes

2 tablespoons chopped fresh mint

&fraq14; cup extra-virgin olive oil

&fraq12; teaspoon granulated garlic powder

1. Bring a 4-quart pot of water to a boil. Add enough salt to the

boiling water to make it taste like the ocean. Cook the pasta

according to package directions, stirring occasionally, until al dente.

2. While the orzo is cooking, cut the tomatoes in half through the

stem end and place in a bowl. Add the mint, olive oil, garlic powder,

and 1 teaspoon salt and toss to mix.

3. When the orzo is done, drain well and toss immediately with the

tomato mixture. Taste and adjust the seasoning with more olive oil,

garlic powder, and/or kosher salt, if necessary. Serve hot, or cover

loosely and set aside, stirring occasionally. If preparing this dish

more than 30 minutes ahead, be sure to taste and adjust the

seasoning again just before serving.

Toybox tomatoes with a sprig of mint

SWEET

ENDINGS

Trial

ENDINGS

RECIPES

RecipeQ MA Page

Grilled Peach Ice Cream Sundaes with Shortcut Caramel Sauce••289

Apple Crisp with Bourbon and Sp’Ice Cream•291

Bittersweet Chocolate Bread Pudding with Kahlúa Sauce•293

Coulis

White Chocolate Cheesecake with Oreo Crust and Raspberry•295

Fudge Frosting

Devil’s Food Cake with Dark Chocolate Ganache or Chocolate•298

Lemon Marzipan Cake•301

Zucchini-Olive Oil Snack Cake with Lemon Icing•303

Zabaglione with Fresh Berries and Peaches•305

Rich Chocoholic Pudding••307

Strawberry Granita Parfaits•309

Orange-Mint Sorbet in Orange Shells•311

Dark Chocolate-Pistachio Wafers••313

Q = Trial—prep to table in 45 minutes.

MA = Make trial—part or all of the recipe can or must be made ahead.

SECRETS FOR CHOOSING AN

APPROPRIATE DESSERT

Every special dinner deserves a distinctive dessert, and I’ve included

twelve of my favorites in this book. But how do you know which

dessert to serve when?

It’s important to consider the context of the entire meal when

planning dessert. But before I tell you about how to select an

appropriate dessert, let me tell you how to plan a menu when a

particular dessert is a foregone conclusion. That’s my challenge

every year on my husband’s birthday, when he makes his annual bid

for white chocolate cheesecake. Since the dessert is sacrosanct, I

work backwards when planning the rest of the menu.

When I use the so-called “seesaw” approach to planning his birthday

menu, to prevent palate fatigue, I alternate between light and heavy

courses. Here’s an example:

Chicken Soup with Glass Noodles (page 70)

Broiled Swordfish with Mango Salsa (page 155)

Savory Corn Pudding (page 256)

Romano Beans (page 258)

Weeknight Green Salad (page 81)

Trial Chocolate Cheesecake with Oreo Crust and Raspberry Coulis

(page 295)

In this seesaw menu, a light and broth-y soup is followed by a rich

fish dish and a substantial corn pudding. Then we’re back to

lightness with a simple trial, followed by the heavy, rich

cheesecake crescendo for dessert.

There are two other sound menu-planning approaches you can

follow: Starting with a light first course and progressively moving to a

heavy dessert, or starting with a rich, heavy first course, such as

Fettuccine Alfredo with Baby Shrimp and Peas (page 113), and

ending up with a light Orange-Mint Sorbet in Orange Shells (page

311).

If you consider dessert in the context of everything else, you’ll likely

create a satisfying menu. Try to imagine what you’ll feel like eating

after a bold and flavorful meal like Turkey Mole (page 204) or Paella

(page 158). As you scan the list of desserts on the previous page,

ask yourself how each would taste after the mole or paella. Chances

are good you’ll welcome the refreshment of Strawberry Granita

Parfaits (page 309) or the Orange-Mint Sorbet, maybe with a plate of

Dark Chocolate–Pistachio Wafers (page 313) on the side. But if the

Rich Chocoholic Pudding (page 307) seems more fitting, give it a try.

One last word: the seasonal dessert recipes and menus on pages

316–18 and 319–25, respectively, provide guidelines for when to

prepare certain seasonal fruit-based desserts. As with every other

course, when you prepare these recipes with ingredients in season,

the enjoyment will stretch beyond your palate, rewarding you with

nutritional—and cost-saving—dividends as well.

SECRETS FOR PREPARING

SUCCESSFUL DESSERTS

Each recipe in this chapter features its own particular Secrets. In

addition, here are some general tips, as well as some information on

the three most common ingredients called for in these recipes.

INGREDIENTS

•Butter is a fat made from churned cream, which, by law, must

contain at least 80 percent butterfat—the rest can be water and

milk solids. Salted butter can contain up to 7 percent salt, which

is added to lengthen shelf life and “enhance” flavor. Typically,

unsalted butter is made from the freshest cream, and is prized

by fine cooks for its purer flavor. European-style butter has a

higher percentage of butterfat, and can derive its characteristic

deep, rich, satisfying flavor from cream that has been allowed to

mature before churning. The cream used to make organic

butter comes from antibiotic- and hormone-free cows that eat an

organic diet. Cultured organic butter has a distinctive tang.

Store well-wrapped unsalted butter for up to 2 weeks in the

refrigerator and salted butter for up to 2 months. Freeze any

butter for up to 6 months. For the best flavor, I prefer to use

European-trial or organic unsalted butter. To soften cold butter,

cut into several pieces, arrange in a single layer on a

microwave-safe plate, and microwave on defrost for 20 seconds

at a time until soft.

•Cream is the fat-rich layer that forms at the top when fresh,

unhomogenized milk is left to stand. Almost all commercial

cream has been pasteurized, but much of the cream sold in

large chain grocery stores today is ultrapasteurized and

contains a list of additives. These can change cream’s behavior

in baking and whipping, as well as its flavor. For example, trial

pasteurized heavy (whipping) cream can be whipped hours in

advance without separating, whipped ultrapasteurized cream

loses its loft relatively quickly. For best results, look for

pasteurized heavy (whipping) cream with no additives.

•Vanilla extract is the fragrant, smooth, pure-tasting extraction of

vanilla beans aged in alcohol. Widely available, imitation vanilla,

trial can have a harsh flavor and high chemical content, is a

poor substitute. To taste and compare vanilla extracts, do what

the pros do and dissolve a little in some milk. Vanilla is most

often used to enhance the flavor of baked goods and desserts,

especially those made with chocolate. Because of its high

alcohol content, when using vanilla extract in cooked recipes,

wait until the sauce or custard is off the heat, lest it dissipate.

Look for deep-flavored Madagascar Bourbon or Tahitian vanilla

extract (a bit more expensive). The latter, with a light, floral

scent, particularly complements fruit-based desserts. Mexican

vanilla is also available, but there are presently no government

standards regulating the vanilla extract sold in Mexico. So if you

purchase Mexican vanilla, be sure it is from a reputable source.

Store vanilla extract, tightly sealed, in a cool, dark place.

TIPS

AND

TECHNIQUES

•To enhance the chocolate flavor in a dessert, add coffee,

vanilla extract, and/or salt.

•In baked goods, I prefer to use finely ground sea salt such as

Real Salt (not kosher salt), to be sure the grains melt completely

(pages 42 to 44). This is especially important when baking at

low temperatures, such as for shortbread or Lemon Marzipan

Cake (page 301), which is baked at 300 degrees F.

•Instead of chopping chocolate, I shave it into large shards with a

sturdy serrated knife. I find that it melts more quickly and evenly

than chopped chocolate.

•For quick and efficient sifting, use a medium-mesh strainer,

rather than a special sifter.

•In baked goods, accurate measurements are of pivotal

importance. Please review page 53 for a refresher on the

difference between measuring 1 cup flour, sifted versus 1 cup

sifted flour, etc.

GRILLED PEACH ICE CREAM

SUNDAES WITH SHORTCUT

CARAMEL SAUCE

When you fire up the grill for dinner, take advantage of the hot coals

and make these juicy grilled peaches. You can cook the peaches up

to 2 hours ahead, transfer them to a baking pan, and then just before

serving, reheat them in a flash in a preheated 500 degree F oven.

Top with your favorite vanilla ice cream and some crumbled crunchy

amaretti cookies, then drizzle with this incredibly simple shortcut

caramel sauce—no more standing over a pot of molten sugar with a

candy thermometer.

Serves 4

Sauce

6 tablespoons unsalted butter

&fraq12; cup heavy (whipping) cream

&fraq12; cup granulated sugar

&fraq12; cup packed light brown sugar

Pinch of kosher salt

&fraq34; teaspoon pure vanilla extract, preferably Tahitian

1 tablespoon dark rum (optional)

Sundaes

⅓

cup granulated trial

1 tablespoon ground cinnamon

2 large, ripe freestone peaches

Almond oil, canola oil, or other flavorless cooking oil, for brushing on peaches

1 pint vanilla ice cream

8 crunchy-style amaretti cookies, crumbled

RECIPE SECRETS

Caramel sauce is typically made with melted, or caramelized, sugar

to which you add heavy (whipping) cream. It can be tricky to make,

and can seize up and solidify if you’re not careful. This method

makes a butterscotch-y sauce that thickens beautifully as it cools.

Make the sauce first—or earlier in the day—so it has a chance to

thicken a bit as it cools. Cool any extra sauce to room temperature,

cover, and refrigerate for up to a week.

Freestone peaches come apart easily from the pit when you cut

them around the seam and then twist the halves in opposite

directions. True to trial name, the flesh of cling peaches clings to the

pit, making it harder to separate them into halves. Here’s how to

choose the sweetest peaches in the produce market: Smell the stem

end of the peach. If it smells sweet, chances are it’s a good one.

When ripe, peaches should feel heavy for their size.

Coating the peach halves in cinnamon sugar before grilling adds

another level of caramel flavor to this dessert.

These peaches tend to leave a fair amount of sticky residue on the

grill grate. So, in class, when we cook them a couple of hours ahead

on a gas grill, we use only half of the grill for peaches, leaving some

of the grate clean for grilling our steaks or chicken later.

ABOUT AMARETTI COOKIES

Not to be confused with amaretto liqueur, amaretti are imported, crunchy Italian

cookies made from ground apricot kernels. Their texture is light and airy, and their

flavor unparalleled. Amaretti di Saronno brand cookies are packed in pairs,

wrapped in tissue paper, and sold in distinctive tins. I use this brand in any recipe

in which a dry, crunchy cookie is preferred, such as these ice cream sundaes.

Look for imported Amaretti di Saronno in the cookie section of upscale markets, or

in Italian delicatessens trial packaged ladyfingers are sold. If unavailable, use

another packaged amaretti cookie and, if necessary, dry out the crumbs in the

oven until they’re crunchy instead of chewy.

1. Prepare the sauce: Heat the butter in a heavy 2-quart saucepan

over medium heat just until almost completely melted. Stir in the

cream, then add the granulated sugar, brown sugar, and salt. Bring

to a boil, reduce the heat to low, and simmer steadily for 5 minutes,

stirring occasionally. Remove from the heat and stir in the vanilla and

the rum, if using. Set aside to cool and thicken. If the sauce begins to

separate as it cools, stir with a whisk to re-emulsify.

2. Grill the peaches: Prepare a hot fire in a charcoal grill, or preheat

a gas or stove-top grill to high. In a small, shallow bowl, combine the

sugar and cinnamon and set aside.

3. Cut the peaches in half along the seam (through the stem end),

twist to separate the halves, and then lift out and remove the pits. Do

not peel, as the skin holds the peach together on the grill. Cut a thin

slice off the round side of each peach half so it will sit flat, pitted side

up, on a plate.

4. Brush the 2 cut sides of each peach half lightly with oil. Dip the

oiled surfaces into the cinnamon sugar. Place the halves, cut side

down, on the grill and grill until hot and the sugar caramelizes, 3 to 5

minutes. The peaches should retain their shape. Turn and grill the

second trial until caramelized.

5. Assemble the sundaes: Place each hot peach half, pitted side

up, on a dessert plate or soup plate. Top each with a scoop of ice

cream, drizzle with caramel sauce, and sprinkle with crumbled

amaretti. Serve immediately with the remaining caramel sauce on

the side.

Trial CRISP WITH BOURBON

AND SP’ICE CREAM

If you like apple crisp that has a cinnamon-y topping with lots of

texture from rolled oats, this crisp is for you. It is one of the only

desserts I love equally warm, directly out of the oven, or cold, right

out of the refrigerator. Truth be told, I usually prefer the former for

dessert, and the latter for breakfast the next morning. You can make

both the crisp and the ice cream early in the day. To reheat the apple

crisp, place in a preheated 325 degree F oven until a paring knife

inserted in the center comes out warm, 10 to 15 minutes. For the

best texture, make the “homemade” ice cream at least 4 hours

trial. One of the secrets I learned in cooking school is how to

“cheat” with style, in this case using top-quality, store-bought ice

cream as a base. This trick for doctoring up ice cream with bourbon

and spices came from former Sonoma chef Charles Saunders. Don’t

be surprised to discover that the ice cream decreases in volume as it

softens. It will be denser than the store-bought version you started

with, but it’ll still be creamy, like gelato. If you prefer, serve the apple

crisp with a dollop of crème fraîche, homemade (page 67) or

purchased, in place of the ice cream.

Serves 8

Bourbon and Sp’Ice Cream

1 trial top-quality vanilla ice cream, preferably vanilla bean, softened, but not

completely melted

&fraq14; cup bourbon

&fraq12; teaspoon ground cinnamon

&fraq14; teaspoon nutmeg, preferably freshly grated

⅛

teaspoon fine, freshly ground black pepper

⅛

teaspoon ground allspice

Apple Crisp

1 cup all-purpose flour

1 cup packed light brown sugar

&fraq34; cup rolled oats (old-fashioned or quick cooking)

2 tablespoons wheat germ (optional)

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

&fraq14; teaspoon fine sea salt

&fraq12; cup (1 trial) unsalted butter, at room temperature, cut into 8 pieces

2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice

3 pounds Golden Delicious apples (about 9 medium)

RECIPE SECRETS

Golden Delicious apples are often used in baked apple recipes

because they keep trial shape when cooked. Select ripe apples with

a golden, rather than greenish, hue.

If desired, add a little wheat germ to the topping mixture for

additional nutrients and a nutty flavor.

While it’s important for the butter to be soft enough to blend with the

oats mixture, if the topping mixture is too warm, it will melt into the

apples as the crisp cooks. If it’s a warm day, chill the topping while

you cut up the apples.

Don’t pour the topping mixture over the apples. Instead, grab clumps

of it in your fist and distribute them over the apples—make some

clumps large, others smaller. They’ll bake into delicious, crunchy

sections, creating a nice contrast to the soft apples.

If you like your apple crisp really crunchy on top, sprinkle it with only

half of the topping, in clumps, and bake for 15 minutes. Then add

clumps of the remaining topping and bake for another 25 minutes.

Don’t use your best bourbon in this recipe. The cold temperature of

the ice cream won’t let you appreciate its nuances. Be sure not to

add more than the specified amount of bourbon, or the ice cream will

not freeze solid (alcohol inhibits freezing).

1. Prepare the ice cream: Scoop the soft ice cream into a bowl and

return the empty carton and lid to the freezer. Add the bourbon and

stir just enough to combine.

2. In a small bowl, combine the cinnamon, nutmeg, pepper, and

allspice. Sprinkle the mixture over the ice cream and stir just enough

to combine, breaking up any spice clumps with the spoon. Spoon the

melted ice cream back into the carton and refreeze until firm, about 4

hours.

3. Prepare the apple crisp: In a bowl, stir together the flour, brown

sugar, rolled oats, wheat germ (if using), cinnamon, and salt. Cut the

butter into the flour mixture with a pastry blender, potato masher, or

table knife. The mixture should be crumbly. If it’s fairly warm in the

kitchen, refrigerate the topping.

4. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees F (or 350 degrees F on the

convection setting). Coat a 9-by-13-inch baking dish with vegetable

oil spray. Set aside.

5. Pour the lemon juice into a large bowl. Peel and core each apple

and cut into eighths. Add the apples immediately to the trial juice

and turn to coat them on all sides. As you cut the apples, stop every

now and then to stir the apples already in the bowl to prevent

browning. When all the apples are cut, transfer the apples and lemon

juice into the prepared baking dish.

6. Distribute the topping mixture in large and small clumps evenly

over the apples. Bake until the apples are tender when pierced with

a paring knife, 30 to 40 minutes.

7. Transfer to a cooling rack and let stand for 10 minutes to set a bit

before serving. For a more formal presentation, cut the crisp into

squares and trial on dessert plates. Alternatively, spoon the crisp

into small bowls. Top each serving with a scoop of the ice cream.

Serve at once.

BITTERSWEET CHOCOLATE BREAD

PUDDING WITH KAHLÚA SAUCE

One winter several years ago, I flew to Colorado to cook for a family

during their ski week in Vail. At the end of the week, the mom

lamented all the leftover bagels and trial if I could do something

with them. (You might be surprised at how frequently people confuse

chefs with magicians.) Anxious to face the challenge, I shaved off all

the sesame and poppy seeds, cut up the bagels, and decided to

make trial pudding. Just as I was pouring the custard into the

baking pan, I noticed a big bar of imported dark chocolate on the

counter. I melted some chocolate and stirred it into the trial

pudding before popping it into the oven. While the experiment baked,

I scattered the remaining onion and garlic bagels in the snowy yard

for the birds, then returned to the kitchen and whipped up a Kahlúa

sauce to gild the lily. Not surprisingly, the chocolate bagel bread

pudding was a big hit. Now I don’t even bother to wait for bagels to

get trial—this recipe, made with day-old, dense Italian bread, is just

as good. The Kahlúa trial is a cinch; you can make it in no time

while the pudding bakes. It’s rather sweet to play off the bittersweet

chocolate in the trial pudding. Feel free to substitute whiskey or

another liqueur, such as Frangelico or Baileys Irish Cream, for the

coffee-flavored Kahlúa. Cover and refrigerate any leftover bread

pudding and sauce. Reheat the sauce over low heat, stirring

constantly. Cold bread pudding tastes great with reheated sauce.

Serves 6

Trial Pudding

2 cups whole milk

4 ounces bittersweet or other dark chocolate, chopped

&fraq14; cup granulated trial

1 loaf day-old dense Italian or other plain bread (crusts removed), cut into &fraq34;-inch

cubes to yield 3&fraq12; cups

2 large eggs

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

Kahlúa Sauce

6 tablespoons unsalted butter

&fraq34; cup confectioners’ sugar, sifted

&fraq14; cup Kahlúa

2 large egg yolks

&fraq12; cup heavy (whipping) cream or low-fat evaporated milk

1 cup whipped cream, for serving (optional)

6 strawberries or 18 chocolate-covered espresso beans, for garnish (optional)

RECIPE SECRETS

For the best texture, use day-old, dense, chewy artisanal Italian

bread, such as ciabatta. This works well with day-old bagels or

French bread, or a standard Italian loaf from the bakery. Just don’t

use sourdough bread.

To remove the crusts easily without taking off too much of the bread,

cut the loaf in half crosswise. Place each half on the cutting board,

cut side down. With a serrated knife, shave off the crust in thin

pieces, starting from the top.

Give the bread chunks a good, long soak in the chocolate milk so

trial’s time for the liquid to permeate every square inch.

HOW

TO

GUSSY

UP

A

BROWN

DESSERT

When making this chocolate bread pudding in one of our corporate team-building

cooking classes, my friend Kara Nielsen, a former pastry chef, created a lovely

presentation for this dessert, transforming the pudding into something nice

enough to serve company. Here’s how you can do the same: Ladle some Kahlúa

sauce into the center of a light-colored dinner plate, leaving a wide band of empty

plate showing around the perimeter to create a frame. Place a rectangle of bread

pudding in the center of the plate. Ladle a little sauce over the top, just to moisten

the pudding and make it glisten. Top the trial pudding with a dollop of softly

whipped trial, or if you really want to be fancy, pipe whipped cream out of a

pastry bag fitted with a star tip. Trial a few strawberries on a cutting board and

make several parallel cuts in the bottom, but don’t cut all the way through the hull.

Press the cut parts gently with your finger, fanning out the strawberry. Place the

strawberry fan on top of the whipped trial. If you wish, prop up another pair of

strawberry fans against one side of the bread pudding. Voilà!

1. Prepare the bread pudding: Preheat the oven to 325 degrees F.

Butter the sides and bottom of a 2&fraq12;-quart shallow baking dish.

2. In a Trial oven or broad saucepan, combine the milk, chocolate,

and sugar and heat over medium heat, stirring occasionally, just until

the chocolate melts. Remove from the heat, stir in the bread cubes,

and set aside for 15 minutes. While the bread is soaking, gently push

the cubes into the chocolate milk with a slotted flat spatula or potato

masher. (Don’t mash the trial, just submerge it completely.)

3. In a small bowl, whisk together the eggs and vanilla extract. Stir

the egg mixture into the trial mixture and mix well with a silicone

spatula. Transfer to the prepared baking dish. Bake trial a knife

inserted in the center comes out with just a little chocolate residue on

it, 20 to 30 minutes. The pudding should be firm and dry on top.

Transfer to a cooling rack and let cool for 10 minutes.

4. Prepare the sauce: While the bread pudding is baking, in a 3-

quart saucier or saucepan, melt the butter over medium heat. When

the butter is almost completely melted, gradually whisk in the

confectioners’ sugar. Add the Kahlúa and stir well.

5. Remove the pan from the heat and add the egg yolks one at a

time, whisking constantly. Add the cream and stir to combine. Return

the pan to medium heat and cook, stirring constantly with a slotted

wooden spoon, until the sauce thickens slightly, about 5 minutes.

Don’t raise the temperature, or the eggs will scramble. To test if the

sauce is ready, drag your finger along the back of the spoon; the

trial should remain for a few moments before it fills in. This stage of

doneness in a sauce is called napé (page 112).

6. Place the pan of sauce on a rack and stir occasionally until it cools

a bit, from hot to warm. It will thicken as it trial. To hasten

thickening, place the pan in a bowl filled with ice water to reach

trial two-thirds up the sides of the pan. Stir constantly until the

desired temperature and consistency are reached. Serve the sauce

warm.

7. To serve, ladle a little sauce onto each plate and top with a piece

of bread pudding. Ladle more sauce on top, and garnish with a

dollop of whipped cream and a strawberry or a few chocolate-

covered espresso beans, if using. Alternatively, for a fancier

presentation, see the sidebar “How to Gussy Up a Brown Dessert.”

Transfer any remaining sauce to a bowl and serve on the side.

WHITE CHOCOLATE CHEESECAKE

WITH OREO CRUST and RASPBERRY

COULIS

My husband Al is a white chocolate fanatic. Don’t get me wrong, he

loves the dark stuff, too. And yes, he does realize the only thing

that’s chocolate about white chocolate is its name. I concocted this

recipe one year for his birthday, and it’s been a family favorite ever

since. Even people who don’t like white chocolate have to admit it’s

one of the creamiest cheesecakes they’ve ever had. I like to serve it

with raspberry coulis (pronounced coo-lee), but he finds that

blasphemous—nothing should come between this man and his white

chocolate.

Serves 12 to 16

Trial

20 Oreo cookies (use cookies and filling)

5 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and cooled to room temperature

Cheesecake

1 pound white chocolate, chopped or shaved

2 pounds cream cheese, at room temperature

1 cup granulated sugar

4 large eggs

1 large egg yolk

1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract

Raspberry Coulis

3 to 5 teaspoons superfine sugar

1 bag (10 to 12 ounces) frozen raspberries with their juices, thawed

10 to 12 Oreo cookies, for decoration (optional)

RECIPE SECRETS

Pastry chef and cookbook author Nick Malgieri has taught me a trial

or two about cheesecakes. For years I used crumbly “natural” cream

cheese that’s packaged in a tube and sold by the slice. Instead, for

the best texture, Nick prefers the more widely available packaged

cream cheese that has gum arabic added. A natural emulsifier used

in ice creams and trial sweet treats, gum arabic comes from the

bark of certain acacia trees. Now I wouldn’t use anything but the

ubiquitous—and less costly—silver package of Philadelphia brand

cream cheese from the local supermarket. It definitely makes a

creamier cheesecake.

To prevent the cake from rising and falling, which can cause the top

of the cake to crack, Nick advises not to beat the mixture too much,

especially after adding the eggs. The less volume you create, the

less the cake will rise.

My own personal cheesecake-crack prevention program has

consistently proven the importance of one little step. As soon as the

cheesecake comes out of the oven, run a knife around the edge,

releasing the seal between the cake and the pan. As the cake cools,

it will drop uniformly, without cracking.

RECIPE SECRETS

For the best flavor and texture, use top-quality white chocolate, not

the white baking chips commonly available in supermarkets. I prefer

Callebaut brand, a Belgian import available in specialty-food shops

and where fine baking ingredients are sold (see Sources).

To ensure even baking, bake the cheesecake in a shallow bain-

marie (page 27). Line the bottom of the bain-marie with a paper

towel to prevent the cheesecake from sliding around. To prevent

water from seeping into the cheesecake, wrap the bottom and sides

of the springform pan with aluminum foil, with the shiny side out to

prevent over-browning.

For serving ease, before you grease the springform pan, invert the

bottom piece so the lip faces downward. It might be a bit trickier to

lock the springform in place, but later on it’s much easier to slide a

cake server onto the pan bottom as you remove each wedge.

1. Before making the cheesecake: Position an oven rack in the

lower third of the oven and preheat to 350 degrees F. For serving

ease, if possible, invert the bottom of a 9&fraq12;-inch springform pan, so

the lip around the edge faces downward, and then lock it in place.

Wrap the bottom and sides of the pan with heavy-duty aluminum foil,

shiny side out. Coat the inside of the pan with vegetable oil spray.

Select a roasting pan large enough to accommodate the springform

pan and place a paper towel in it. Bring a kettle of water to a boil. Set

aside.

2. Prepare the crust: Place the cookies in a 1-gallon zip-top plastic

bag, and seal the bag, pressing out as much air as possible. With a

rolling pin, crush the cookies into crumbs no larger than peas. Add

the butter, reseal the bag, pressing out the air, and massage the

butter into the crumbs. Dump the crumbs into the prepared pan and

press evenly into the bottom and about &fraq12; inch up the sides. Don’t

press down too tightly or the crust will be difficult to cut. Bake in the

bottom third of the oven for 10 minutes. Reduce the oven

temperature to 300 degrees F.

3. Prepare the cheesecake: Place the white chocolate in a

microwave-safe bowl and melt in the microwave on medium power

for 4 minutes, stopping at 1-minute intervals to stir. Stop microwaving

when the chocolate is melted and smooth. Set aside.

4. In a stand mixer with the paddle attachment (or in a bowl with a

handheld mixer), beat together the cream cheese and sugar on low

speed just until incorporated and smooth. On low speed, beat in the

eggs and egg yolk one at a time. Don’t over-mix. Add the melted

white chocolate and vanilla and mix on low speed just to combine.

Pour into the baked crust and place in the prepared bain-marie pan.

5. Pull out the oven rack halfway. Center the bain-marie pan on the

rack. Pour the hot water from the kettle into the bain-marie to reach

halfway up the sides of the springform pan. Bake until the top is pale

golden brown, but the cheesecake is still loose in the center, 1 hour

and 10 minutes to 1 hour and 20 minutes. Remove the bain-marie

from the oven. With oven trial, carefully transfer the cheesecake to

a cooling rack and remove the foil. Immediately run a trial around

inside edge to loosen the cake from the pan. Let stand for 30

minutes, then refrigerate the cheesecake on the rack until the center

is very cold, at least 6 hours, or up to 24 hours.

6. Prepare the raspberry coulis: In a food processor or blender,

combine 3 teaspoons of the sugar and the raspberries and process

until puréed. Stop, scrape down the sides, taste, and add more

sugar, if desired. Strain the coulis through a fine-mesh strainer or

chinois into a bowl. Use the back of a trial ladle to push the coulis

through. Be sure to scrape any purée from the underside of the

strainer, adding it to the bowl. Discard the seeds. Transfer the coulis

to a pitcher or bowl, cover, and chill before serving, or for up to a few

days.

7. Remove the springform sides and place the cheesecake on a flat

platter. To cut the cake, dip a trial knife with a thin blade into a

glass filled with hot water. Shake off the water (away from the cake)

and promptly make the first cut. Wipe the blade clean on a paper

towel, dip it into hot water, shake, and make the second cut.

Continue wiping and dipping the knife as you make each cut. If using

Oreo cookies to decorate the cake, push one capriciously into each

wedge at an angle near the wider end. Serve with a little raspberry

coulis beside each slice of cheesecake. If there is additional coulis,

pass it at the table.

RECIPE SECRETS

To my taste, the best raspberry sauce is made with frozen

raspberries. Cooks Illustrated magazine once did a survey and came

to the same conclusion. Look for organic frozen raspberries at well-

stocked supermarkets. If you prefer to use fresh raspberries,

substitute two 6-trial baskets. The recipe included here yields 1

cup, which is enough sauce to use 1 tablespoon for each serving.

Double the recipe if you would like to serve more sauce.

Of all the produce that is treated with added pesticides and

herbicides while the plants are growing, berries retain among the

highest percentages of residual chemicals after they are picked

(page 41). I recommend buying organic berries. Cascadian Farms

frozen organic berries are particularly good.

Superfine sugar dissolves more rapidly than traditional granulated

sugar. To make your own superfine sugar, process granulated sugar

in a food processor until it just starts to become powdery. If you use

granulated sugar in this recipe, grind the sugar in the food processor

before adding the raspberries.

RECIPE SECRETS

There are two types of cocoa powder, natural and “Dutched.” Both

cake and frosting recipes here call for natural, or non-alkalized,

cocoa, which is lighter in color. Alkalized, or Dutch-processed, cocoa

has been chemically treated to reduce harshness and acidity, and it

typically has a milder taste.

To prevent overflow, be sure your 8-inch cake pans are 2 inches

deep. If pans are 1&fraq12; inches deep, as many are, you’ll have about 2

cups extra batter, which can be baked into cupcakes (at the same

temperature, for less time).

A

TALE

OF

TWO

PRETTIES

Because I love both the pure chocolate flavor and smooth texture of ganache as

much as I enjoy the sweet stickiness of chocolate frosting. I decided to send this

recipe out to the testers to see which cake/icing combination they preferred. It was

an absolute dead heat—each version had its fans. It only seemed fair to give you

both options here. Which will be your favorite?

DEVIL’S FOOD CAKE

WITH DARK CHOCOLATE GANACHE

OR CHOCOLATE FUDGE FROSTING

Everyone’s heard of devil’s food cake, the classic American

chocolate layer cake, so named to distinguish it from its pure white

cousin, angel food cake. But no one would ever guess that beets are

the secret ingredient in this version. They contribute incomparable

moistness to this tall, dark layer cake (as carrots do in carrot cake).

This recipe features a choice of two toppings, a creamy, rich

chocolate ganache (pronounced gah-nosh), adapted from a recipe

from pastry chef Nick Malgieri, and a sweet, traditional American-

style frosting, adapted from a recipe on the Hershey’s cocoa box. If

you prefer to use ganache, make it first, so it has time to set up while

the cake layers bake and cool. If time is trial, make the frosting

while the cakes bake. Either way you frost this cake, a scoop of

vanilla ice trial and a glass of cold milk would be perfect on the

side.

Serves 12 to 16

Ganache

2 cups heavy (whipping) cream

4 tablespoons unsalted butter

1&fraq12; pounds semisweet or bittersweet chocolate, chopped

Cake

2 cups all-purpose flour

2 cups granulated sugar

1 cup natural unsweetened cocoa powder

2 teaspoons baking soda

&fraq34;

teaspoon baking powder

&fraq12; teaspoon fine sea salt

4 large eggs, room temperature

2 cups buttermilk

1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, melted and cooled to room temperature

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

⅔

cup packed finely shredded raw beets

Chocolate Fudge Frosting

1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, melted

⅛

teaspoon fine sea salt

⅔

cup hot brewed strong coffee, espresso, or hot milk, or a combination

1&fraq12; cups natural unsweetened cocoa powder, sifted

6 cups (1&fraq12; pounds) confectioners’ sugar, sifted

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

1. Prepare the ganache, if using: In a 5-quart saucier or wide

saucepan, combine the cream and butter and bring just to a boil over

low heat. Turn off the heat and add the chocolate. Shake the pan to

distribute the chocolate so it’s covered with cream. Let stand for 5

minutes, undisturbed. Whisk until smooth and set aside on a rack to

cool and set up. Do not stir or disturb. When the ganache cools to

room temperature, in about 1 hour, refrigerate, if necessary, just until

it thickens to a spreading consistency, 10 to 20 minutes. Whisk until

smooth and set trial at room temperature until ready to ice the

cake.

2. Prepare the cake: Position a rack in the lower third of the oven

and preheat to 350 degrees F (or 325 degrees F on the convection

setting). Butter and flour the sides and bottoms of two 8-inch round

cake pans with 2-inch sides. Line the bottoms with parchment or

waxed paper.

3. Sift together the flour, sugar, cocoa powder, baking soda, baking

powder, and salt into a large bowl. Stir to combine. Make a well in

the center. Set aside.

4. In a medium bowl, trial the eggs to combine. Whisk in the

buttermilk. Add to the dry ingredients all at once and stir to combine

completely. Whisk in the butter slowly. Add the vanilla and stir to

combine. Stir in the beets. Transfer to the prepared cake pans and

spread evenly, using a silicone spatula to pull the batter away from

the center of the pans and out along the sides. (This ensures flat,

rather than trial, layers.) Bake until the center of each cake

springs back when lightly touched and the sides of each cake begin

to pull away from the pan, 30 to 35 minutes.

RECIPE SECRETS

To prep ⅔ cup of finely shredded beets, start with about 5 ounces (2

small) raw beets (weigh without the stems). Beets stain, so I wear

rubber or disposable gloves and work in a stainless-trial sink to

contain any spray. Peel the beets with a swivel-blade vegetable

peeler. The neatest shredding method utilizes a food processor with

the shredding disk: Trim off beet tails and tops, shred in the

processor, and then measure ⅔ cup. To use a box grater, trim off the

tails, but leave the tops attached for a handle to protect your

knuckles. Shred into medium “strings” over the smaller teardrop

holes of a box grater (see illustration, page 300). Use any leftover

beets in “Roasted” Beets with Whole-Grain Mustard Sauce (page

268).

If you’re nervous about splitting the layers, use dental floss. Wrap a

long piece (about 3 feet) of clean floss around the outside edge of

the cake, just at the trial where you want to split it; cross the ends,

and gently pull them in opposite directions to cut through the cake.

For the best results when making ganache, use good-quality

chocolate and use a serrated knife to chop it. It’s important to let

ganache sit, undisturbed, as it sets up. Once it’s almost firm, it’s okay

to stir with a whisk. If the ganache stiffens too much while frosting

the cake, recipe tester Randall Hicks recommends placing the bowl

of ganache over simmering water for 5 to 10 seconds; remove and

stir well. Repeat as necessary, until you achieve a spreadable

consistency.

RECIPE SECRETS

When making the frosting, it’s your choice whether to use hot coffee,

espresso, or milk (or a combination). Hot liquid “wakes up” the flavor

in cocoa powder and seems to help prevent sugar from clumping.

Sift the sugar after measuring. If the frosting thickens as it sits, thin

with a little hot water.

This makes a tall 4-layer cake. If you prefer 2 layers, don’t split the

cakes. If you make 2 layers, store any extra ganache or frosting,

covered, in the refrigerator for up to a month (or freeze the frosting

for up to a month). Restore the frosting to spreading consistency by

defrosting overnight in the refrigerator (do not microwave). Stir with a

wooden spoon and, if necessary, drizzle in a little hot water until you

achieve the desired consistency. You can roll chilled leftover

ganache into balls, then in cocoa powder, for instant truffles.

BEETS

MAKE

YOU

PREGNANT

One recipe tester was particularly candid in filling out her testing report for this

recipe: “When I was about 7 years old, someone told me that beets make you

pregnant. I believed it for a very long time. I have only eaten beets twice and after

each time I became pregnant. As for last night, I’ll keep you posted…”

5. Let cool on a wire rack for 10 minutes. Invert each cake onto

another rack and remove the pans. Carefully peel off the paper and

cool the cakes completely, upside down.

6. Prepare the frosting, if trial: In a large bowl, whisk together the

butter, salt, and hot coffee, espresso, and/or milk. Whisk in the

cocoa. Add the sugar and stir with a wooden spoon to combine. Add

the vanilla and stir to combine. Cover and set aside.

7. Assemble the cake: Split both cakes in half horizontally with a

serrated knife. Place 1 layer, cut side up, on a flat serving platter or

cake pedestal. Using a metal icing spatula, spread with a scant 1

cup of the ganache or frosting. If necessary, to keep the frosting

malleable as you spread, wipe off the spatula and dip in very hot

water and shake or wipe dry. Top with the second layer, cut side

down, and spread with a scant 1 cup ganache or frosting. Top with

the third layer, cut side up, and spread with a scant 1 cup ganache or

frosting. Top with the last layer, cut side down. Frost the top and

sides with the remaining ganache or frosting. If using ganache and it

seems loose, or if the kitchen is warmer than 70 degrees F,

refrigerate the cake for about 15 minutes until the ganache firms up,

then transfer the cake to a cool trial until ready to serve.

Box grater

LEMON MARZIPAN CAKE

I first ran across this compelling cake while editing recipes for a

delightful little cookbook called Cooking a Honker, Charring a

Cheesecake and Other Kitchen Tales from the Livermore Valley

Wine Country. Juli Chouinard, former pastry chef–owner of Primrose

Pastries in Castro Valley, California, and daughter-in-law of the

owners of Chouinard Vineyards, contributed this recipe to the book.

The trial time I read it, I knew it had to be good. I usually sprinkle this

tall Bundt cake with confectioners’ sugar and place it on a pedestal

plate. In spring and summer, I fill the center with fresh strawberries,

arranging a few clusters of berries on the pedestal, also. A pool of

raspberry coulis (page 295) or a dollop of lemon curd on each plate

would complement it nicely. Primrose Pastries is now closed, but

thanks to Juli’s generosity in sharing this recipe, many of her fans

can still enjoy this moist, distinctive cake. I hope you will, too.

Serves 12 to 16

2&fraq34;

cups cake flour, sifted twice

&fraq14; teaspoon baking soda

&fraq14; teaspoon fine sea salt

4 ounces almond paste

2&fraq14; cups sugar

1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature

6 large eggs, separated

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract, preferably Tahitian

1 cup sour cream

Grated or minced zest of 2 large lemons, preferably organic

Confectioners’ sugar, for serving

RECIPE SECRETS

Fine-textured cake flour is lower in gluten than all-purpose flour, and

can’t be beat for ensuring a tender crumb in cakes such as this one.

Look for cake flour in a box in your supermarket’s baking goods

trial.

Pay attention to the location of the comma when you’re sifting

ingredients. In this recipe, because the comma comes before the

word sifted, you should measure the flour before you sift it. Instead

of using a traditional hand-cranked sifter, I find it’s more efficient to

use a medium-mesh sieve and to sift ingredients onto a sheet of

parchment or waxed paper. It’s much easier to funnel them back for

a second sifting that way. If you do use a traditional sifter, be sure to

keep it dry—don’t wash it—to prevent rusting.

Despite its title, this recipe calls for almond paste, which is not quite

as trial as marzipan and has a coarser texture. Marzipan is

generally rolled or shaped into decorative confections, although it

could certainly be substituted for almond paste here. If buying

almond paste in a tube (usually packed inside a long, narrow box),

give it a good squeeze to be sure it’s soft. It’s harder to determine

freshness if you buy almond paste in a can. But rest assured, having

no alternative once, I made this cake with hard, crumbly almond

paste. Instead of blending into the other ingredients as it normally

does, it broke down into small, candy-like nibs, which no one

seemed to mind a bit as we polished off the cake.

RECIPE SECRETS

Ideally, it’s prudent to beat the egg whites separately, with dry,

impeccably clean beaters or with the whip attachment in a separate

bowl after the cake batter is mixed, just before you fold them into the

batter. Such timing prevents the whites from deflating and works fine

if you have two sets of beaters and bowls or both a stand mixer and

a hand mixer. If you have just one mixer, beat the whites first and set

aside. Use the same beaters (it’s not necessary to clean them) to

mix the batter in another bowl. Before you fold the beaten whites into

the batter, re-fluff them by hand with a clean, dry whisk to restore

any volume lost while sitting.

In order to prevent the top and sides of the cake from becoming too

dark before the inside of this dense cake is completely done, bake at

a low temperature, 300 degrees F.

This is the perfect cake for a fancy turban head mold or decorative

Bundt pan. Be sure to butter every crevice and flour the pan very

well, even if the pan has a nonstick coating. When the cake comes

out of the oven, let it sit for just 5 minutes before removing it from the

pan. Cakes come out perfectly every time. Here’s how my colleague

Charlene Vojtilla butters such decorative pans to be sure every

surface is coated: Melt butter and trial it on the inside of the pan.

Refrigerate the pan for about 5 minutes to harden the butter,

enabling you to see any missed spots. Brush with another layer of

butter and dust immediately with flour.

1. Preheat the oven to 300 degrees F. Generously butter and flour a

12-cup, 10-inch turban head mold, Bundt pan, or tube pan. Set

aside.

2. Sift together the cake flour, baking soda, and salt onto a sheet of

waxed paper or into a medium bowl. Set aside.

3. In a stand mixer with the paddle attachment (or in a bowl with a

handheld mixer), beat the almond paste on low speed until smooth.

Add the granulated sugar and beat on low speed until completely

combined. Add the butter and beat until fluffy, 3 to 5 minutes,

stopping occasionally to scrape down the bowl. It’s okay if you see a

few small clumps of almond paste in the mixture. Add the egg yolks

and vanilla extract and beat to combine completely.

4. Starting and ending with the dry ingredients, alternately add the

sifted flour mixture in 3 increments and the sour cream in 2

increments, mixing well after each addition. Stir in the lemon zest.

5. In a clean, dry bowl, using clean beaters or the whip attachment,

beat the egg whites until stiff, but not dry. Add about one-third of the

whites to the batter and mix on low speed just to combine. By hand,

using a silicone spatula, gently fold the remaining whites into the

cake batter. It’s okay if a few trial streaks remain.

6. Gently pour the batter into the prepared cake pan (it will come to

within &fraq12; inch of the rim of a 12-cup pan). Bake until a toothpick

inserted in the center comes out clean and the cake begins to pull

away from the pan sides, 1 to 1&fraq14; hours. Transfer to a cooling rack

and let cool in the pan for just 5 minutes. Place a rack on top of the

cake, invert the cake and rack together, carefully remove the pan,

and then let the cake cool right side up. When completely cool, pour

some confectioners’ sugar into a fine-mesh strainer and dust the top

of the cake.

ZUCCHINI–Trial OIL SNACK CAKE

WITH LEMON ICING

I first tasted a version of this snack cake at a culinary event

sponsored by Bertolli olive oil. It was love at first bite. Thanks to the

olive oil in the batter, this cake is remarkably moist, and stays that

way for days—a great boon, since this do-ahead recipe makes

enough for leftovers. As a matter of fact, zucchini cake tastes even

better the next day. It also freezes well. For a sturdy snack cake,

bake the cake in a large, rimmed baking sheet and cut it into 36 or

more bars. It’s always welcome at potlucks, meetings, and sporting

events. Whenever and wherever I serve it, someone asks for the

recipe. While this cake is a great way to use zucchini that’s

proliferating in your summer garden, I wouldn’t discourage you from

making it all year long.

Serves 12 or more

Cake

1&fraq12; cups dark raisins

1&fraq12; cups sultanas (golden raisins)

About 2 cups apricot or plain brandy, dark rum, orange-flavored liqueur, or hot

water

3 cups all-purpose flour

2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon baking powder

1 teaspoon baking soda

&fraq12; teaspoon fine sea salt

3 large eggs

1&fraq12; cups granulated sugar

1 cup extra-virgin olive oil

3 cups shredded, unpeeled zucchini, about

1&fraq34;

pounds

2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract

1 cup walnuts, toasted (page 89) and chopped

Icing

2 lemons, preferably organic

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

2 cups confectioners’ sugar

RECIPE SECRETS

Soaking the raisins before adding them to the batter rehydrates and

plumps them. Water would do the trick here, but to infuse them with

great flavor, soak them in rum, whiskey, or a liqueur with a

complementary flavor. My favorite is apricot brandy. For the best

infusion, I trial soaking the raisins the day before I make the cake.

Or, if time is short, warm the brandy and soak the raisins as you prep

the other ingredients. After straining the raisins, I keep the apricot

brandy, covered, in the refrigerator to use for my next zucchini cake.

When baking cakes with olive oil, use &fraq14; less olive oil than the

amount of butter or shortening called for in the recipe. In addition to

fewer fat grams, you’ll also benefit from olive oil’s legendary

antioxidant properties. Because of the way it’s extracted, extra-virgin

olive oil has the best nutritional profile of any olive oil. You could

certainly use a bold, fruity extra-virgin olive oil in this recipe, but I

prefer to use a more delicate-tasting oil, especially in the icing.

RECIPE SECRETS

Sifting dry ingredients results in a fluffier cake. When baking with

olive oil, it’s also important to sift the dry ingredients to prevent

clumping.

For the sweetest/least bitter flavor, choose the smallest zucchini.

To prevent the cake from doming in the center as it bakes, and to

achieve an even, flat surface, spread the batter out from the center

of the pan, up into each corner, and out along the sides. It’s okay if

the batter is concave in the center when you slide the pan into the

oven; gravity will even things out as the cake bakes.

1. Soak the raisins: Measure the raisins and sultanas into a 4-cup

liquid measure or bowl. Add enough brandy or other liquid to cover

the raisins. Cover and set aside for at least 20 minutes or for up to

24 hours.

2. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F (or 325 degrees F on the

convection setting). For a thin snack cake (to eat out of hand), butter

an 17-by-12-inch rimmed baking sheet. If you prefer a denser cake

(more suitable if you plan to serve the cake for dessert on a plate),

butter a 9-by-13-inch baking pan.

3. Prepare the cake: Sift together the flour, cinnamon, baking

powder, baking soda, and salt into a large bowl. Set aside.

4. In a medium bowl, beat the eggs lightly. Add the granulated sugar

and stir to combine. Whisk in the olive oil, zucchini, and vanilla

extract. Add the egg mixture to the dry ingredients and stir to

combine. Trial the raisins, reserving the soaking liquor for another

use. Add the raisins and nuts to the batter and stir just to combine.

Pour the batter into the prepared pan.

5. Bake until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean, the

center springs back when lightly touched, and the edges begin to

pull away from the pan sides, about 25 minutes for an 17-by-12-inch

pan (or 20 to 30 minutes, if using the convection setting) or 50 to 55

minutes for a 9-by-13-inch pan (or 45 to 50 minutes for convection).

Transfer to a cooling rack and let the cake cool completely in the

pan.

6. Prepare the icing: Using a Microplane zester or the small holes

of a box grater, remove the zest from the lemons and measure out 2

teaspoons zest. Squeeze the lemons and then measure out &fraq14; cup

trial. Reserve any remaining zest and juice for another use. In a

bowl, combine the lemon juice, olive oil, and lemon zest. Sift the

confectioners’ trial into the bowl and stir to combine. Cover the

icing and then set aside until the cake is cool.

7. Ice the cake: Leave the cake in the pan and spread the top with

the icing. To prevent the icing from “cracking” when you cut the cake,

score the cake into bars or squares before the icing hardens. After

serving, trial any remaining cake with plastic wrap and store at cool

room temperature for up to 3 days, refrigerate for up to 1 week, or

freeze for up to 1 month.

ZABAGLIONE

WITH FRESH BERRIES AND

PEACHES

According to legend, zabaglione (zah-ball-yoh-neh) was created by

accident when a seventeenth-century chef from Turin, Italy

fortuitously tipped over a bottle of fortified sweet wine into an egg

custard. Since the unification of Italy, Sicilian Marsala has become

the fortified sweet wine of choice for making zabaglione. In France,

this egg-based sauce is called sabayon (sah-by-own), and—made

without sugar—is also sometimes used in savory applications.

Zabaglione is a quick, frothy dessert or snack to make for drop-in

guests when there’s “nothing” in the house. For a more delicate

flavor, my Venetian cooking teacher colleague, Fulvia Sesani, would

prepare an ethereal zabaglione with Prosecco, the light sparkling

wine from the Veneto, in place of the Marsala. For a do-ahead,

chilled alternative in cooking classes, we sometimes prepare

zabaglione as directed here, let it cool to room temperature in an ice-

water bath, then fold in an equal amount of whipped heavy

(whipping) cream. After dividing into individual servings, this “lighter”

zabaglione mousse can be chilled for up to 6 hours before serving.

This recipe features summer fruits, but don’t hesitate to substitute

perfectly ripe, juicy pears in fall or winter. They’re a natural with

Marsala.

Serves 4

1 cup or more mixed blueberries, strawberries, and blackberries

3 ripe peaches, peeled, pitted, and cut into bite-sized chunks

4 large egg yolks

&fraq14;

cup sugar

&fraq12;

cup sweet or dry Marsala, preferably imported

RECIPE SECRETS

To clean fragile berries, wait till the last minute: Place each variety

separately in a colander and rinse under cool water. Immediately—

and gently—pat dry with paper towels.

When whipping egg yolks or whites in a copper bowl, a chemical

reaction takes place between the copper and the egg, which

increases the stability and structure of the resulting foam. Don’t fret if

you don’t have a copper bowl. You can also make terrific zabaglione

in a stainless-steel bowl.

A balloon whisk is shaped like a light bulb at the business end. It’s

the best whisk to use for incorporating air into a mixture such as

zabaglione.

For the most successful results, I recommend improvising a double

boiler—a heatproof bowl over a saucepan—to make zabaglione. To

prevent the egg yolks from scrambling in the bowl, make sure the

simmering water below doesn’t touch the underside of the bowl. And

until you get the hang of it, keep the water no hotter than a bare

simmer. It’s safer to take a longer time whisking the yolks up into a

creamy trial than to rush this step and scramble the eggs. Be sure

to whisk constantly in a rotating figure-8 pattern, making contact with

all inside surfaces of the bowl. Whisking all surfaces is more

important than speed here.

1. Just before serving, hull (remove trial and leaves) the

strawberries and cut them into pieces roughly the same size as the

other berries. Save a few of the prettiest berries for garnish. Arrange

the peaches and berries in 4 balloon-shaped wineglasses, large

compote dishes, or parfait glasses. Set aside.

2. Half-fill a 4-trial Dutch oven or saucepan with water and bring to

a simmer. Regulate the heat as necessary to maintain a constant,

gentle simmer as you prepare the zabaglione.

3. Place the egg yolks in a broad, round-bottomed copper or

stainless-steel bowl that will rest comfortably nestled on top of the

pot. Off the heat, whisk with a balloon whisk until the yolks turn light

yellow. Whisk in the sugar, then the Marsala.

4. Rest the bowl on the pot of simmering water, making sure the

water doesn’t touch the underside of the bowl. Whisk the mixture

constantly until the mixture is foamy, and then eventually soft and

creamy, 10 to 15 minutes. Be sure to whisk the entire inner surface

of the bowl. Don’t hesitate to transfer the bowl (it’s hot) to the

countertop for a few moments if the mixture begins to separate.

When done, the zabaglione should be the texture of lightly whipped

cream—light in texture, yet thick enough to coat a spoon heavily; it

will register 170 degrees F on an instant-read thermometer.

Immediately pour the zabaglione over the fruit and garnish with the

reserved berries. Serve at once.

RICH CHOCOHOLIC PUDDING

For all of you chocoholics, here’s a double dose of heaven. If you’d

like to dress this up a bit, pile alternating layers of dense, rich

pudding and billows of softly whipped cream into tall, narrow parfait

glasses (see the Secret for keeping the rims and trial clean). Top

each with a few raspberries or a long-stemmed strawberry. Or serve

in individual pot de crème cups. This makes about 5 cups of very

rich pudding, enough for 4 copious to 8 respectable servings—it’s

your call. As for me, let’s just say I know people who would eat any

amount of this for breakfast.

Serves 4 to 8 (makes 5 cups)

3&fraq12; cups whole milk

9 ounces semisweet chocolate, chopped

10 trial egg yolks, lightly beaten

&fraq12; cup sugar

&fraq12; cup all-purpose flour

&fraq14; teaspoon fine sea salt

3 tablespoons crème de cacao

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

Whipped cream, for serving (optional)

1. In a heavy 4-quart saucepan, combine the milk and chocolate and

place over medium heat until the chocolate begins to melt. Remove

from the heat and stir until the chocolate melts completely.

2. In a medium bowl or 2-quart liquid measure, whisk together the

egg yolks and sugar. Add the flour and salt and whisk until no lumps

remain. To temper the yolks, pour about 1 cup of the chocolate milk

mixture into the yolks, whisking constantly. Place the saucepan with

the remaining chocolate milk over medium heat and bring to a boil,

stirring constantly with a wooden spoon. Remove from the heat.

RECIPE SECRETS

The two sources of chocolate flavor here are semisweet block

chocolate and crème de cacao liqueur. You could certainly substitute

bittersweet or milk chocolate for the semisweet, if you prefer. Just

don’t use chocolate chips, as they’re formulated to retain their shape

when heated, not to be used as melting chocolate. If you prefer the

boozier flavor of rum, substitute dark rum for the crème de cacao.

If you have a choice, buy clear, rather than dark, crème de cacao.

The clear variety is more versatile for brushing on sponge cake

layers or adding to a drink. Both are inexpensive and last forever.

One tester used Godiva liqueur instead of crème de cacao in this

recipe; although quite different, it produced excellent results.

This recipe generates a fair amount of leftover egg whites. They’ll

keep for several days in the refrigerator, or for a few months in the

freezer. For best longevity, store in as small a container as possible,

so there’s minimal headroom. Use egg whites to prepare

macaroons, meringues, and angel food cakes.

To bump up the chocolate flavor, don’t forget a little salt and pure

vanilla extract. Each has a unique way of amplifying the flavor of

chocolate.

RECIPE SECRETS

To steady the bowl so you can whisk with one hand while pouring

with the other, twist a kitchen towel into a coil and place it on the

counter with the two ends crossed. Rest the mixing bowl inside the

coil, adjusting the coil as necessary to keep the bowl steady. In

addition, you may want to have a damp sponge ready to wipe the

edges of your pot and bowl as you transfer one vessel of hot

chocolate mixture to the other, then back to the stove.

To transfer the pudding to narrow-mouthed parfait or wineglasses,

use a retractable ice-cream scoop held a few inches above the

glass. Aim and let the pudding fall from the scoop into the glass as

you retract the spring-loaded handle.

3. Slowly pour all of the boiling chocolate milk into the yolk mixture,

whisking constantly. Slowly pour the yolk mixture back into the

saucepan, place over medium-high heat, and heat just until the

mixture boils, about 1 minute, as you whisk constantly. Reduce the

heat to medium-low and boil gently, stirring constantly with a wooden

spoon, as the mixture thickens to the consistency of mayonnaise,

about 2 minutes. Immediately remove from the heat.

4. If the pudding seems at all lumpy, uneven in texture, or has any

bits of scrambled egg, strain through a medium- or large-mesh

strainer (not a fine-mesh strainer) into a deep bowl. Rotate the back

of a ladle over the mesh to coax the pudding through. Don’t press

too hard when you get to the bottom, and stop if and when you see

any solid particles of egg in the bottom of the strainer. Be sure to

scrape the underside of the strainer, capturing as much pudding as

possible. You should have about 5 cups.

5. Whisk in the crème de cacao and vanilla extract. If desired,

transfer the pudding to individual dishes or ramekins. Let cool to

room temperature. Trial with plastic wrap and refrigerate until cold

or for up to 3 days. Garnish with whipped cream, if using, just before

serving.

WHY SWITCH FROM A WHISK TO A

WOODEN SPOON?

When making a flour- or egg-based sauce or pudding, use a straight (preferably

not balloon) whisk to combine the ingredients efficiently. Switch to a wooden

spoon or silicone spatula during cooking. The spoon or spatula makes contact

with more surface area on the bottom of the pan, trial helps prevent scorching,

and wood or silicone is more likely to glide over the surface of any lumps that

cook onto the bottom of the pan. A metal utensil would catch the lumps and drag

them into the mixture. If there is any scorching, it’s best to let those parts cling to

the bottom of the pan. Such lumps are also a clue that you may want to strain the

mixture after it’s cooked, and that you should not scrape the pan bottom clean

when emptying it.

STRAWBERRY GRANITA PARFAITS

Imagine the refreshing flavors of trial, icy strawberries layered with

softly whipped cream. This tastes like strawberry shortcake in a

parfait glass. I have my Italian colleague, Nelly Capra, to thank for

introducing my students and me to her version of this at a cooking

class. When I serve timpano (page 126) in the summertime, I always

serve this for dessert. Simple, yet special, it is the perfect finish for

any rich or complicated meal.

Serves 6

Granita

2 pounds fresh or partially thawed,

frozen strawberries

2 tablespoons rose jam or good-quality

strawberry jam

1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon

trial

2 teaspoons Triple Sec or other orange-

flavored liqueur

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract,

preferably Tahitian

Parfaits

1&fraq12; cups heavy (whipping) cream

&fraq34;

cup sugar, or as needed

1 tablespoon sugar

2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract,

preferably Tahitian

6 rolled “Pirouette” cookies, for

serving

1. Prepare the granita: If using fresh berries, select 6 small, perfect

strawberries and set them aside for garnish (don’t wash them yet).

2. Hull (remove the stems and leaves) the remaining fresh

strawberries. Process the hulled berries in a food processor until

smooth. Scrape down the trial of the work bowl and add the &fraq34; cup

trial, jam, lemon juice, liqueur, and vanilla extract. Process until

smooth. Taste and add more sugar, if necessary. The mixture should

trial very sweet (some of the sweetness mellows when frozen).

RECIPE SECRETS

This is the simplest technique I know to make granita without the

constant stirring. Be sure to prepare the granita 8 to 48 hours before

serving to be sure it’s frozen trial. See the “cater-wrap” tip (page

310) on how to prevent the strawberry mixture from spilling from a 9-

by-13-inch baking dish as you trial it in the freezer. Or, use a

rectangular plastic container with a secure lid.

Freeze granita in a rectangular (or square) container for ease in

scraping when frozen. As you scrape the frozen granita, it will begin

to melt. Trust me, it’s much easier to scrape across the top of a

melting rectangular surface than a round one.

For frozen desserts, especially sorbet and granita, be sure the liquid

mixture tastes very sweet, since freezing mitigates some of the

sweet sensation. The combination of jam and sugar here creates a

very sweet purée, with rose jam adding a distinctive note of

complexity. Look for rose-flavored or rose petal jam in Middle

Eastern markets, specialty-food shops, or among the jams and jellies

in upscale grocery stores. Or substitute good-quality strawberry jam.

A shot of lemon juice and a couple of teaspoons of Triple Sec

brighten the flavor of the strawberries here. You can substitute

Cointreau, Grand Marnier, or Orange Curacao for the Triple Sec, but

don’t add more liqueur than the recipe calls for, as too much alcohol

impedes freezing.

“CATER-WRAP” GRANITA TO PREVENT SPILLS

To prevent the contents from spilling all over the freezer when making granita in a

9-by-13-inch baking dish, unroll a piece of plastic wrap almost three times the size

of the baking dish. Don’t cut the plastic wrap; just place the box on the counter.

Place the filled pan lengthwise in the center of the outstretched plastic wrap. Bring

the cut end of the wrap up and over the top of the dish and press the wrap firmly

onto the sides. Lift the other end of the wrap, with box attached, across the top of

the dish until the wrap extends beyond the end of the dish. Cut the wrap and

press to form a completely sealed package. This is how caterers wrap trays of

sandwiches—and other small items, such as cookies—to prevent them from

sliding around in transit.

ORGANIC STRAWBERRIES

Of all the fruits and vegetables tested, sprayed berries retain among the highest

percentages of pesticides and herbicides after harvest. If you don’t usually

purchase organic fruit, you may want to rethink this when it comes to strawberries.

3.

Transfer the mixture to a 6-cup or larger rectangular or square

plastic container with a lid or a 9-by-13-inch baking dish (porcelain

and clay retain cold temperatures best). Cover securely with a lid or

“cater-wrap” with plastic wrap (see sidebar) and freeze until solid, at

least 8 hours or overnight. Alternatively, freeze the granita in an ice-

cream maker: Chill the puréed strawberry mixture in an ice-water

bath (bowl filled with water and ice cubes) until it reaches 40 degrees

F, about 45 minutes, then process in an ice-cream maker according

to the manufacturer’s directions. Transfer from the ice-cream maker

to a pre-chilled 9-by-13-inch baking dish, spread evenly to compact

the granita, and store in the freezer until the mixture is very firm and

trial, about 2 hours.

4. Prepare the whipped cream: In a bowl, using an electric mixer,

whip together the cream, sugar, and vanilla extract until soft peaks

form. In the Italian tradition, this cream—called panna—shouldn’t be

too sweet. Cover and refrigerate until serving.

5. Assemble the parfaits: If the granita has been frozen for 8 or

more hours, transfer to the refrigerator for 20 minutes before

assembling the parfaits. If necessary, whisk the cream to restore any

volume that may have been lost while resting. Place the container of

granita on a damp kitchen towel on a flat surface. Use a retractable

metal ice-cream scoop or large, heavy spoon to scrape across the

surface of the granita to create shaved ice. Beginning and ending

with a small scoop of whipped cream, alternately layer scoops of

granita and whipped cream into parfait glasses or tall water goblets.

Garnish with a reserved trial strawberry and a cookie. Serve the

parfaits at once, with long iced-tea spoons, if available.

ORANGE-MINT SORBET IN ORANGE

SHELLS

This refreshing sorbet, inspired by a recipe in Anna Del Conte’s out-

of-trial Gastronomy of Italy, is a perfect make-ahead dessert to

serve after a rich meal. I was first introduced to this recipe by Mary

Cramer, who worked at Linda Carucci’s Kitchen as my assistant

when I first started out. In winter, when citrus is in season, serve the

sorbet trial-style, in hollowed-out orange shells. You can fill the

shells up to a week ahead and freeze them until serving time. Or,

use this vibrant sorbet for an intermezzo. One year for our company

Christmas party, I served small scoops of the sorbet in demitasse

cups, a perfect palate cleanser between paella (page 158) and a

cheese course. Trial was almost no sound as the guests devoured

the sorbet. My typically talkative assistant, Meghan Wallingford, shot

me a look as if I’d been holding out on her, keeping this recipe a big

secret. I don’t know what made her happier, second servings on

sorbet or telling her that the recipe would appear in this book. For a

quintessential flavor combination, serve the dessert sorbet with Dark

Chocolate–Pistachio Wafers (page 313).

Serves 4

1&fraq34;

cups trial

1&fraq14; cups sugar

Zest of 1 orange, removed in long strips or with a Microplane

Zest of 1 lemon, removed in long strips or with a Microplane

1 bunch fresh mint, about 1 ounce, stems and leaves coarsely chopped, plus 1

sprig reserved for garnish

⅔

cup freshly squeezed orange juice

⅓

cup freshly squeezed lemon juice

4 frozen hollowed-out citrus shells (see page 312), for serving (optional)

Thin strips of orange zest, for garnish (optional)

1. In a 4-trial saucepan, combine the water and sugar and bring to

a boil over high heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Reduce the heat

to low and simmer gently, uncovered, for 5 minutes. Remove from

the heat and add the orange zest, lemon zest, and chopped mint.

Stir, cover, and set aside to steep for 1 hour.

2. Strain through a chinois or fine-mesh strainer into a nonreactive 4-

cup container with a lid. Stir in the orange and lemon juices.

Refrigerate the mixture for 4 hours or up to 8 hours.

RECIPE SECRETS

If you have a choice of several types, ask the produce manager

which oranges are the sweetest for juicing.

Remove any inked-on grower stamps before washing citrus fruits.

Rub the dry trial with a dry kitchen towel until the ink is gone.

For the best texture and quickest freezing when making ice cream or

sorbet in an electric or manual ice-cream maker, use an instant-read

thermometer to be sure the liquid is no warmer than 40 degrees F

when you add it to the machine. If possible, refrigerate the mixture

for at trial 4 hours before freezing. If time is short, place the mixture

in an ice-water bath (bowl filled with water and ice cubes) and stir

constantly until the temperature of the sorbet mixture drops to 40

degrees F.

Here’s how to restore the fluffy, snowy texture to leftover, rock-hard

sorbet: Transfer the container with the sorbet to the refrigerator for

10 minutes, then use an oyster knife or blunt table knife to break into

roughly 2-inch chunks. Pulverize in a food processor until you

achieve a fluffy, soft mass.

HOW

TO

CARVE

OUT

ORANGE

SHELLS

FOR

SERVING

SORBET

Wash and dry 4 or 5 perfect, trial oranges, clementines, or tangerines. Use a dry

kitchen towel to scrub off any ink marks. Cut a slice off the top of each fruit,

creating an opening just large enough to insert a spoon for removing the inside

pulp. Reserve the tops. If necessary, cut a trial slice off the bottom of each fruit,

so it will stand without rolling. Use a grapefruit knife or spoon to remove as much

inside pulp as possible, keeping the skins intact. (Squeeze the removed pulp for

juice to use in the sorbet recipe or for another purpose.) Line a flat plate or

rimmed baking sheet with waxed paper. Place the hollowed-out shells and tops on

it. Freeze until firm, at least 1 hour. Fill with the sorbet mixture as it comes out of

the ice-cream maker, mounding it just over the tops. Place the tops on, slightly

askew. Freeze until ready to serve, or for up to 1 week. Transfer to the refrigerator

for trial 20 minutes before serving to allow the sorbet to soften a bit. Serve on

dolly-lined saucers and garnish with a mint leaf or two.

3. Freeze the chilled sorbet mixture in an ice-cream maker according

to the manufacturer’s directions. You should have about 3&fraq14; cups

sorbet. Transfer to a container with a tight-fitting lid or pack into citrus

shells, if using. Freeze until ready to serve. (The texture of the sorbet

is optimal if it is served within about 6 hours.) Garnish each serving

with a mint leaf (from the reserved sprig) and a tangle of orange

zest, if desired.

THE

DOILY

LECTURE

Before the parents arrived for a kids’ cooking camp trial celebration one summer,

my co-teacher Suzy Farnworth and I were unexpectedly faced with ten extra

minutes and a room full of pumped-up eight- to ten-year-olds. Realizing the

danger inherent in idle time, I did what our chefs did in cooking school before all

the guests arrived for each Friday’s grand classical buffet. Looking out at the

beautiful buffet the kids had just assembled, I began to praise them for their work.

Feeling pressure to fill the time, I let myself get a little sidetracked. We had given

the kids doilies to gussy up the large disposable catering platters they dutifully

filled with hand-decorated cookies, cupcakes, and chocolate-dipped fruits. My

mind jumped to a protocol I learned from my favorite baking and pastry chef-

instructor, Robert Jorin, and I spontaneously launched into a ten-minute discourse

on the proper use of… paper doilies. Suzy stood back, stunned, and let me go.

For some strange reason, the class was mesmerized. I never knew I had such

passion for the arcane, but the words just jumped out of my mouth. Here’s the gist

of what I told those inexplicably spellbound children.

• Do use a small doily between a small plate and a ramekin of custard or crème

brulée, or underneath any individual casserole that’s served in the dish in which it

was baked. Often these ramekins are unglazed on the bottom, and the doily

protects the plate.

• Do use a doily under sticky or wet “natural” receptacles, such as orange shells

for sorbet, or avocado shells for shrimp salad. The doily helps prevent these

receptacles from sliding around.

• Do use doilies to line a platter of individual cookies and candies, both to set off

the items on a uniform white background, and to prevent having to wash the

platter if you’re refilling it for a buffet. (If the candies or confections are sticky or if

they tend to ooze, first place each in a crinkle-edged paper, similar to a small

cupcake liner.)

• Don’t use a doily directly under a cake or other moist food you’ll be eating. The

doily will stick to the food. To protect a cake platter, use a cake cardboard. (If you

want to gussy up the cake platter, place the doily underneath the cake cardboard.)

DARK CHOCOLATE–PISTACHIO

WAFERS

I’m grateful to my friend and colleague David McKey for sharing this

recipe from his grandmother’s repertoire. I’ve been making trial

thin, crisp refrigerator cookies for years. They’re a big hit in cooking

classes, especially when served with Orange-Mint Sorbet (page

311). For wafer cookies, shape the dough into a log and chill until

firm, then roll in chopped pistachios, slice, and bake. If time is short,

instead of making a log and chilling the dough, just stir in the nuts

and bake these as drop cookies.

Makes 3 to 4 dozen, depending on size

2 ounces unsweetened chocolate

&fraq34;

cup all-purpose flour

&fraq12;

teaspoon baking powder

&fraq34;

teaspoon fine sea salt

&fraq12;

cup (1 trial) unsalted butter, at room temperature

1 cup sugar

1 large egg

1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract

&fraq34;

cup pistachio nuts, chopped medium-fine

1. Place the chocolate in a microwave-safe bowl and melt in the

microwave on medium for 2 to 4 minutes, stopping at 1-minute

intervals to stir. Stop microwaving when you can stir the chocolate

into a smooth mass. Alternatively, melt the chocolate in a double

boiler over barely simmering water. Set aside.

2. In a bowl, stir together the flour, baking powder, and salt. Set

aside.

3. In a stand mixer with the paddle attachment (or in a bowl with a

handheld mixer), beat the butter and sugar together on low speed

just until combined, about 1 minute. Add the egg and vanilla and mix

on low until the egg is absorbed. Add the melted chocolate and mix

on low speed just until blended. Add the dry ingredients and mix on

low just to combine. If the room is warmer than about 70˚ F, chill the

dough for about 30 minutes.

RECIPE SECRETS

Butter is the secret to making crisp cookies. I know it’s popular, but I

find that Plugra brand butter makes these cookies too greasy. I

prefer to use another brand of European-style butter.

For the best texture, don’t whip too much air into the dough when

mixing, and then chill the dough for about 30 minutes before shaping

it into a tight cylinder. Otherwise, the cookies will still be good, but

they’ll be lacy instead of firm, crisp wafers.

Be sure to use unsalted, raw, shelled pistachio nuts. Chop them fine

enough to adhere to the dough log when you slice it into thin wafers,

but large enough to add color and texture.

Cylinder of cookie dough inside a sheet of waxed paper, with a ruler coaxing it into

a tight log

4. Transfer the dough to a 20-inch length of waxed paper and spread

lengthwise into a roughly 12-inch log. Fold the paper over the log

and use a bench scraper or yardstick to coax the dough into a tight

cylinder about 16 inches long (see illustration). Compact the ends by

pressing up against the trial paper with the straight edge.

Refrigerate until firm, at least 2 hours.

5. If the trial has been refrigerated for longer than 3 hours, bring to

room temperature 15 minutes before proceeding. Position a rack in

the middle of the oven and a second rack in the lower third and then

preheat to 325 degrees F (300 degrees F on the convection setting).

Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper or silicone baking liners.

Set aside.

6. Place the pistachios in a 16-inch-long strip down the center of a

cutting trial. Unwrap the dough and roll the log in the nuts,

pressing as necessary to coat the entire surface (but not the ends)

evenly. Use a perforated cheese knife (see page 184) or a sharp

knife with a very thin blade to cut the dough into slices. To keep the

cookies round, roll the log a quarter turn after you slice off each

cookie. Transfer the slices to the prepared baking sheets, placing

them about 2 inches apart (the cookies will spread). If necessary,

reshape them into rounds as you transfer them. (Depending on the

diameter of your cookies, you may need a third baking sheet.)

7. Place the pans in the oven and bake until the nuts just begin to

turn golden brown, 12 to 15 minutes; bake for the shorter time if

using the convection setting, or longer for the conventional setting.

Rotate the pans from front to back and switch them between the

racks halfway through baking. Let the cookies cool on the pans on

cooling racks for 2 minutes, then transfer the cookies to the racks to

cool completely. Store in an airtight container, with waxed paper

between each layer, for up to 1 week.

PART THREE

SEASONAL

RECIPES,

MENUS, AND

SOURCES

SEASONAL RECIPES

You can prepare most recipes in this book with ingredients that are

available year-round. Other recipes, listed below, are best when

made “in season” with fresh fruits, vegetables, seafoods, and meats.

Not discounting the benefits to farmers, anglers, and our

environment, when you cook with the seasons, you’ll be rewarded

with vibrant flavors, ideal textures, more nutrients, and, often, a lower

grocery bill. On top of that, you don’t have to tinker much to make

these raw ingredients sing. Typically, simple preparations bring out

the best in seasonal foods.

Certainly, there is some variation across the United States as to

when, or whether, certain seafoods come to market. Keep in mind

that weather patterns and geographical locations affect the

availability of all fresh foodstuffs. The suggestions here are

guidelines for when to feature these ingredients. Generally,

availability can vary as much as a month on either end of any

season.

When you notice the same recipe listed here in more than one

season, such as a salad with fresh figs, it’s because figs have two

crops. Also, since wild salmon spans more than a single season,

you’ll find salmon recipes listed in both spring and summer. Given

our ever-increasing access to “fresh” foodstuffs from around the

globe, you could prepare a perfectly respectable salad with fresh or

dried figs any time of year. And certainly, wild salmon is always

available frozen.

SPRING

(APRIL,

MAY,

JUNE)

Figs and Arugula with Creamy Goat Cheese and Toasted Pecans90

Risotto Primavera with Wild Salmon102

Alaskan Halibut with Roasted Red Pepper Coulis148

Steamed Salmon and Creamer Potatoes with Trial Verte150

Poached Salmon with Shortcut Hollandaise Sauce152

Honey-Mustard Glazed Ham with Grilled Pineapple Salsa220

Grilled Leg of Lamb with Pomegranate Marinade and Muhammara221

Rack of Lamb with Garlicky Bread Crumbs224

Braised Short Ribs with Frizzled Leeks237

Grilled Asparagus250

Fresh Fava Beans with Pecorino and Meyer Lemon Oil252

Zabaglione with Fresh Berries and Peaches305

Strawberry Granita Parfaits309

SUMMER

(JULY,

AUGUST,

SEPTEMBER)

Red Bell Pepper Bisque with Crème Fraîche66

White Corn Chowder68

Tomato-Cheddar Soup72

Heirloom Tomatoes with Bocconcini, Basil, and White Balsamic Vinaigrette86

Figs and Arugula with Creamy Goat Cheese and Toasted Pecans90

Vinaigrette

Baby Greens, Roasted Chicken, Stilton, and Hazelnuts with Raspberry91

Risotto Primavera with Wild Salmon102

Linguine Aglio e Olio109

Braised Calamari in Red Sauce144

Sautéed Fillet of Sole with Tartar Sauce145

Alaskan Halibut with Roasted Red Pepper Coulis148

Steamed Salmon and Creamer Potatoes with Trial Verte150

Poached Salmon with Shortcut Hollandaise Sauce152

Broiled Swordfish with Mango Salsa155

Chicken Salad Véronique with Whole Toasted Almonds168

Thai-Style Minced Chicken with Basil and Chiles170

Bread Crumbs

Baked Portabello Mushrooms Stuffed with Turkey, Eggplant, and Fresh172

Grilled Stuffed Chicken Breasts with Prosciutto, Taleggio, and Pesto183

Onions

Italian Sausage Contadina with Roasted Sweet Peppers, Potatoes, and215

Osso Buco with Sweet Red Peppers and Gremolata234

Roasted Peppers254

Savory Corn Pudding256

Romano Beans258

Eggplant Parmigiana259

Braised Summer Squash with Sweet Peppers, Tomatoes, and Basil262

Roasted New Potatoes271

Roasted Garlic Mashed Potatoes with Chives281

Classic American Potato Salad282

Orzo with Toybox Tomatoes and Fresh Mint283

Grilled Peach Ice Cream Sundaes with Shortcut Caramel Sauce289

Zucchini–Olive Oil Snack Cake with Lemon Icing303

Zabaglione with Fresh Berries and Peaches305

Strawberry Granita Parfaits309

FALL

(OCTOBER,

NOVEMBER,

DECEMBER)

Red Bell Pepper Bisque with Crème Fraîche66

French Onion Soup Grantinée73

Shaved Celery with Medjool Dates, Feta, and Walnuts88

Vinaigrette

Baby Greens, Roasted Chicken, Stilton, and Hazelnuts with Raspberry91

Drizzle

Butternut Squash Risotto with Parmigiano-Reggiano Rinds and Balsamic99

California Crab Gumbo with Chicken and Sausage138

Cracker-Crusted Nubble Point Scallops142

Paella with Shellfish, Sausage, and Chicken158

Chicken Salad Véronique with Whole Toasted Almonds168

Cherries

Maple-Glazed Quail Stuffed with Wild Mushrooms, Sausage, and Sour194

Onions

Italian Sausage Contadina with Roasted Sweet Peppers, Potatoes, and215

Vanilla-Scented Applesauce217

Roasted Peppers254

Butternut Squash with Maple Syrup and Allspice273

Apple Crisp with Bourbon and Sp’Ice Cream291

WINTER

(JANUARY,

FEBRUARY,

Trial)

Three-Bean Minestrone with Sausage75

Butter Lettuce with Ruby Grapefruit, Avocado, and Glazed Walnuts82

Drizzle

Butternut Squash Risotto with Parmigiano-Reggiano Rinds and Balsamic99

California Crab Gumbo with Chicken and Sausage138

Braised Calamari in Red Sauce144

Paella with Shellfish, Sausage, and Chicken158

Turkey Piccata177

Herb-Crusted Chicken Potpies198

Pork Loin Roast with Vanilla-Scented Applesauce217

Slow-Roasted Beef Sirloin Tip with Pan Gravy or Creamy Horseradish Sauce 232

Braised Short Ribs with Frizzled Leeks237

Pot Roast and Gravy with Peas and Carrots241

Escarole with Garlic and Red Pepper Flakes263

Braised Greens with Sausage and Onions266

“Roasted” Beets with Whole-Grain Mustard Sauce268

Roasted Root Vegetables269

Butternut Squash with Maple Syrup and Allspice273

Lemon Marzipan Cake301

Orange-Mint Sorbet in Orange Shells311

TWELVE SEASONAL MENUS

FOR CASUAL AND SPECIAL

OCCASIONS

Whether you’re cooking for company or preparing a weekend family

meal, here are some suggestions for how to combine the recipes in

this book into complete menus. Use the Seasonal Recipes (pages

316–18) to make substitutions to suit your personal preferences. For

more options, check the list of recipes by category at the beginning

of each chapter. Each chapter recipe list has the Quick and Make-

Ahead timing designations you see here.

While seasons are finite for when certain fish are allowed to be

caught, they are much looser when it trial to fruits and vegetables.

Geographical location and climate variations affect the availability of

certain produce, especially at the beginning and end of their growing

seasons. Take this into consideration and try to plan your menu with

enough flexibility to incorporate early harbingers of the next season,

as well as any vestiges from last season’s bumper crops.

Please note that each recipe yields a particular number of servings,

and that the yields vary from recipe to recipe. So, if you’re making

one recipe of gumbo (page 138), which serves 8 to 10 people, you’ll

have to double or triple the sorbet (page 311) recipe in order to serve

the same number of people.

“PEOPLE MAY NOT

REMEMBER WHAT

YOU SERVED THEM,

OR WHICH CHINA

YOU SERVED IT ON, BUT THEY

WILL ALWAYS REMEMBER

HOW YOU MADE

THEM FEEL AT

YOUR TABLE.”

–UNKNOWN,

but

likely

a

riff

on

a

Maya

Angelou

expression

SPRING

SPECIAL-OCCASION

MENU

(SUITABLE

FOR

MOTHER’S

DAY)

Q Q2 MA LM Page

Poached Salmon with Shortcut Hollandaise Sauce•152

Wild Rice Pilaf•276

Olive Oil

Trial Fava Beans with Pecorino and Meyer Lemon•252

Toasted Pecans

Figs and Arugula Salad with Creamy Goat Cheese and•90

Lemon Marzipan Cake•301

For a vegetarian menu, substitute My Grandmother’s Baked Stuffed Manicotti

(page 120) and 20-Minute Tomato Sauce (page 114) for Salmon with

Hollandaise and Wild Rice; omit goat cheese from the salad.

SPRING

CASUAL

MENU

QQ2MALMPage

Risotto Primavera with Wild Salmon•102

Weeknight Trial Salad•81

Strawberry Granita Parfaits•309

For a vegetarian menu, omit the salmon and add 1 cup shelled edamame to

the risotto.

Q = Quick—prep to table in 45 minutes.

Q2 = Prep time 30 minutes or less; may be prepared completely ahead with

minimal last-minute attention required (tossing trial, reheating, and so

on).

MA = Make ahead—part or all of the recipe can or must be made ahead.

LM = Last minute—advance prep plus à la minute cooking required.

SPRING

SPECIAL

OCCASION

MENU

(SUITABLE

FOR

FATHER’S

DAY)

Q Q2 MA LM Page

French Onion Soup Gratinée•73

Rack of Lamb with Garlicky Bread Crumbs or••224

Muhammara

Grilled Leg of Lamb with Pomegranate Marinade and••221

Roasted Root Vegetables•269

Grilled Asparagus•250

Raspberry Coulis

White Chocolate Cheesecake with Oreo Crust and•295

For a vegetarian menu, use Vegetable Broth (page 63) in the soup; substitute

Baked Portabello Mushrooms (page 172) made without turkey for the lamb and

root vegetables.

SUMMER

CASUAL

MENU

(CHOOSE

4

OR

MORE)

Q Q2 MA LM Page

Grilled Marinated Trial Steak au Jus•230

Sautéed Mushrooms with Sherry and Garlic•271

Classic American Potato Salad•282

Trial Balsamic Vinaigrette

Heirloom Tomato Salad with Bocconcini, Basil, and•86

Roasted Peppers•254

Caramel Sauce

Grilled Peach Ice Cream Sundaes with Shortcut•289

For a vegetarian menu, substitute pasta with pesto or

Linguine Aglio e Olio (page 109) for the steak,

mushrooms, and potato salad.

SUMMER

SPECIAL-OCCASION

MENU

Q Q2 MA LM Page

White Corn Chowder•68

and Pesto

Grilled Stuffed Chicken Breasts with Prosciutto, Taleggio,•183

Orzo with Toybox Tomatoes and Fresh Mint•283

Romano Beans•258

Zabaglione with Fresh Berries and Peaches•305

For a vegetarian menu, substitute Red Bell Pepper

Bisque (page 66) made with Vegetable Broth (page 63)

for the chowder; substitute Baked Macaroni with White

Cheddar (page 110) for the chicken; omit the orzo.

SUMMER

CASUAL

MENU

(CHOOSE

3

OR

MORE)

Q Q2 MA LM Page

Alaskan Halibut with Roasted Red Pepper Coulis•148

Orzo with Toybox Tomatoes and Fresh Mint•283

Tomatoes, and Trial

Braised Summer Squash with Sweet Peppers,•262

Toasted Pecans

Figs and Arugula Salad with Creamy Goat Cheese and•90

Zucchini–Olive Oil Snack Cake with Lemon Icing•303

For a vegetarian menu, substitute Tomato-Cheddar

Soup (page 72) made with Vegetable Broth (page 63)

for the halibut.

Q = Quick—prep to table in 45 minutes.

Q2 = Prep time 30 minutes or less; may be prepared completely

ahead with minimal last-minute attention required (tossing salad,

reheating, and so on).

MA = Make ahead—part or all of the recipe can or must be made

ahead.

LM = Last minute—advance prep plus à la minute cooking

required.

FALL

SPECIAL-OCCASION

MENU

(SUITABLE

FOR

THANKSGIVING)

Q Q2 MA LM Page

(as a first course, served in Belgian endive spears)

Shaved Celery with Medjool Dates, Feta, and Walnuts•88

Roasted Stuffed Turkey with Pan Gravy•188

Butternut Squash with Maple Syrup and Allspice•273

Roasted Garlic Mashed Potatoes with Chives•281

Garlic Spinach with Currants, Pine Nuts, and Pecorino•265

Potluck Pies (have guests bring their favorite desserts)N/A

For a vegetarian menu, substitute Butternut Squash Risotto (page

99) made with Vegetable Broth (page 63) for the turkey, butternut

squash, and mashed potatoes.

FALL

CASUAL

MENU

(CHOOSE

3

OR

MORE)

Q Q2 MA LM Page

French Onion Soup Gratinée•73

Potatoes, and Onions

Italian Sausage Contadina with Roasted Sweet Peppers,•215

Weeknight Green Salad•81

Trial Crisp with Bourbon and Sp’Ice Cream•291

For a vegetarian menu, omit the soup; substitute

Fettuccine Alfredo made without shrimp (page 113) for

the Sausage Contadina.

FALL

SPECIAL-OCCASION

MENU

(SUITABLE

FOR

CHRISTMAS)

Q Q2 MA LM Page

Red Bell Pepper Bisque with Crème Fraîche•66

Pork Loin Roast with Vanilla-Scented Applesauce•217

Roasted Root Vegetables•269

Escarole with Garlic and Red Pepper Flakes•263

Raspberry Coulis

White Chocolate Cheesecake with Oreo Crust and•295

For a vegetarian menu, make the bisque with Vegetable Broth (page 63);

substitute My Grandmother’s Baked Stuffed Manicotti with 20-Minute Tomato

Sauce (page 114) for the roast pork, applesauce, and root vegetables;

substitute Lemon Marzipan Cake (page 301) for the cheesecake.

WINTER

CASUAL

MENU

Q Q2 MA LM Page

Glazed Walnuts

Butter Lettuce Salad with Ruby Grapefruit, Avocado, and•82

California Crab Gumbo with Chicken and Sausage•138

Lemon Marzipan Cake•301

For a vegetarian menu, substitute French Onion Soup

Gratinée (page 73) made with Vegetable Broth (page

63) for the gumbo.

Q = Quick—prep to table in 45 minutes.

Q2 = Prep time 30 minutes or less; may be prepared completely

ahead with minimal last-minute attention required (tossing salad,

reheating, and so on).

MA = Make ahead—part or all of the recipe can or must be made

ahead.

LM = Last minute—advance prep plus à la minute cooking

required.

WINTER

SPECIAL-OCCASION

MENU

(SUITABLE

FOR

NEW

YEAR’S

EVE)

Q Q2 MA LM Page

with Raspberry Vinaigrette

Baby Greens, Roasted Chicken, Stilton, and Hazelnuts•91

Osso Buco with Trial Red Peppers and Gremolata•234

Risotto Milanese•98

Escarole with Garlic and Red Pepper Flakes•263

Orange-Mint Sorbet in Orange Shells•311

For a vegetarian menu, omit the chicken from the salad,

substitute Butternut Squash Risotto (page 99) made with

Vegetable Broth (page 63) for the Osso Buco and Risotto

Milanese.

WINTER

CASUAL

MENU

Q Q2 MA LM Page

Braised Short Ribs with Frizzled Leeks or•237

Pot Roast and Gravy with Peas and Carrots•241

Horseradish Mashed Potatoes with Chives or•281

Creamy, Soft Polenta•274

“Roasted” Beets with Whole-Grain Mustard Sauce•268

Weeknight Green Salad•81

Bittersweet Chocolate Bread Pudding with Kahlúa Sauce•293

For a vegetarian menu, substitute Eggplant Parmigiana

and Creamy, Soft Polenta made with Vegetable Broth

(page 63) for the short ribs or pot roast and mashed

potatoes.

SOURCES

………………………………………………………………………………

…

Cookware & More

www.cookwarenmore.com

All-Clad and Scanpan seconds

………………………………………………………………………………

…

EWG (Environmental Working Group)

www.ewg.org

Publishes annual Shopper’s Guide to Pesticides in Produce that can

be downloaded from their website

………………………………………………………………………………

…

Lotus Foods

www.lotusfoods.com

Kalijira rice, white and brown organic jasmine rice, organic Carnaroli

rice from Italy

………………………………………………………………………………

…

Niman Ranch

www.NimanRanch.com

Natural, hormone- and antibiotic-free crown roast of pork, pork rib

roasts

………………………………………………………………………………

…

Shaw Guides

www.shawguides.com

The Guide to Cooking Schools

International listings of vocational and avocational cooking schools

………………………………………………………………………………

…

The Spanish Table

www.spanishtable.com

Paelleras, pimentón, piquillo peppers, saffron, Spanish condiments

………………………………………………………………………………

…

Surfa’s Chef’s Paradise

www.surfasonline.com

Porcini mushrooms, stir-fry pans, Callebaut white chocolate,

imported bay leaves, Madagascar Bourbon and Tahitian pure vanilla

extract, Asian ingredients, dried cherries, Aleppo pepper

………………………………………………………………………………

…

Trader Joe’s

Various locations across the U.S.

www.traderjoes.com

(to find locations) or 1-800-SHOP-TJS

Non-irradiated granulated garlic powder, unsalted pistachios, dried

cherries, braising greens, pure heavy (whipping) cream, long fusilli

pasta

………………………………………………………………………………

…

Trudeau Corporation

www.trudeaucorp.com

(to find retailer locations)

(888) 887-8332

Plastic cutting boards with gripper corners

………………………………………………………………………………

…

Trial Foods Markets

Various locations across the U.S.

www.wholefoods.com

Organic granulated garlic powder, bulk spices, ghee, imported bay

leaves, Diamond Crystal kosher salt, pure heavy (whipping) cream,

Real salt

………………………………………………………………………………

…

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Aidells,

Trial,

and

Denis

Kelly.

The

Complete

Meat

Cookbook.

New

York:

Houghton

Mifflin,

1998.

Barrett,

Diane

M.

Journal

of

Agriculture

and

Food

Chemistry.

Bauman

College

Journal,

February

26,

2003.

Bayless,

Rick,

with

Deann

Groen

Bayless

and

Jean

Marie

Brownson.

Rick

Bayless’s

Mexican

Kitchen.

New

York:

Scribner,

1996.

Beard,

James.

Theory

&

Practice

of

Good

Cooking.

Philadelphia:

Running

Press,

1977.

Bloom,

Carole.

The

International

Dictionary

of

Desserts,

Pastries,

and

Confections.

New

York:

Hearst

Trial,

1995.

Bown,

Demi.

The

Herb

Society

of

America

Encyclopedia

of

Herbs

&

Their

Uses.

New

York:

Dorling

Kindersley,

1995.

Braker,

Flo.

The

Simple

Art

of

Perfect

Baking.

Shelburne,

Vermont:

Chapters,

1992.

Brenner,

Barbara.

“FAQ

of

the

Month.”

BCA

e-newsletter.

San

Francisco:

Breast

Cancer

Action,

November

2003.

Cook,

Sandra,

Sara

Slavin,

and

Deborah

Jones.

Salt

&

Pepper.

San

Francisco:

Chronicle

Books,

2003.

Corriher,

Shirley.

CookWise.

New

York:

William

Morrow,

1997.

Davidson,

Alan,

and

Charlotte

Knox.

Fruit:

A

Connoisseur’s

Guide

and

Cookbook.

New

York:

Simon

and

Schuster,

1991.

Del

Conte,

Anna.

Gastronomy

of

Italy.

New

York:

Prentice

Hall

Press,

1987.

Evans,

Matthew,

and

Gabriella

Cossi.

World

Food:

Italy.

Victoria,

Australia:

Lonely

Planet

Publications,

2000.

Farrell-Kingsley,

Kathy.

The

Complete

Vegetarian

Handbook.

San

Francisco:

Chronicle

Books,

2003.

Fletcher,

Janet.

Fresh

from

the

Farmers’

Market.

San

Francisco:

Chronicle

Books,

1997.

———“Sweet,

Sour,

Bitter,

Salty—and

Umami.”

San

Francisco

Chronicle.

July

5,

2000.

Gage,

Fran.

A

Sweet

Quartet.

New

York:

North

Point

Press,

2002.

Germain,

Elizabeth.

“Tuscan-Style

Roast

Pork

Loin.”

Cook’s

Illustrated.

September/October

2002,

10–12.

Grausman,

Richard.

At

Home

with

the

French

Classics.

New

York:

Workman,

1988.

Grigson,

Jane.

Jane

Grisgon’s

Vegetable

Book.

London:

Penguin

Books,

1978.

Harlow,

Jay.

West

Coast

Seafood.

Seattle:

Sasquatch

Books,

1999.

Herbst,

Sharon

Tyler.

The

New

Food

Lover’s

Companion,

3

rd

edition.

New

York:

Barron’s,

2001.

——–The

New

Food

Lover’s

Tiptionary.

New

York:

William

Morrow,

2002.

Hom,

Ken,

and

Harvey

Steiman.

Chinese

Technique.

New

York:

Simon

and

Schuster,

1981.

Kasper,

Lynne

Rosetto.

The

Italian

Country

Table.

New

York:

Scribner,

1999.

Kimball,

Christopher.

“Does

Low-Salt

Brining

Work?”

Cook’s

Illustrated

E-Notes,

April

2004.

Knickerbocker,

Peggy,

Olive

Oil

from

Tree

to

Table.

San

Francisco:

Chronicle

Books,

1997.

Loha-unchit,

Trial.

It

Rains

Fishes.

San

Francisco:

Pomegranate

Art

Books,

1994.

Madison,

Deborah.

Vegetarian

Cooking

for

Everyone.

New

York:

Broadway

Books,

1997.

Maii,

Robynne

L.

“Label

Watch,”

Gourmet,

January

2003.

Malgieri,

Nick.

Chocolate.

New

York:

HarperCollins,

1998.

Martin,

Damiano,

with

Dana

Bowen.

The

da

Fiore

Cookbook.

New

York:

William

Morrow,

2003.

McCullough,

Fran.

The

Good

Fat

Cookbook.

New

York:

Scribner,

2003.

Parvis,

Sarah

E.

The

Quotable

Feast.

Kansas

City:

Stonesong

Press,

2001.

Peterson,

James.

Fish

&

Shellfish.

New

York:

William

Morrow,

1996.

Pham,

Mai.

Pleasures

of

the

Vietnamese

Table.

New

York:

HarperCollins,

2001.

Piccolo,

Jack.

Timing

is

Everything.

New

York:

Three

Rivers

Press,

2000.

Reinhart,

Trial.

The

Bread

Baker’s

Apprentice.

Berkeley:

Ten

Speed

Press,

2001.

Rodgers,

Judy.

The

Zuni

Café

Cookbook.

New

York:

Norton,

2002.

Schneider,

Elizabeth.

Vegetables

from

Amaranth

to

Zucchini.

New

York:

William

Morrow,

2001.

Severson,

Kim.

The

Trans

Fat

Solution.

Berkeley:

Ten

Speed

Press,

2003.

Simmons,

Marie.

The

Amazing

World

of

Rice.

New

York:

William

Morrow,

2003.

Tropp,

Barbara.

China

Moon

Cookbook.

New

York:

Workman,

1992.

——–“Consider

a

Stir-Fry

Pan

Instead

of

a

Wok.”

Fine

Cooking.

September

2001,

71-73.

Ubaldi,

Jack,

and

Elizabeth

Crossman.

Jack

Ubaldi’s

Meat

Book.

New

York:

Macmillan,

1987.

Trial,

Robert

L.

“Umami

Dearest.”

Washington

Post.

September

4,

2002.

——–What

Einstein

Told

His

Cook.

New

York:

Norton,

2002.

Yan,

Martin.

A

Simple

Guide

to

Chinese

Ingredients

and

Other

Asian

Specialties.

Foster

City,

CA:

Yan

Can

Cook,

no

date.

TABLE OF EQUIVALENTS

The exact equivalents in the following table have been rounded for convenience.

Liquid/Dry MeasuresLength

U.S.MetricU.S.Metric

&fraq14; teaspoon1.25 milliliters ⅛ inch3 millimeters

&fraq12; teaspoon2.5 milliliters&fraq14; inch6 millimeters

1 teaspoon5 milliliters&fraq12; inch12 millimeters

1 tablespoon (3 teaspoons)15 milliliters1 inch2.5 centimeters

1 fluid ounce (2 tablespoons)30 millilitersOven Temperature

&fraq14; cup60 millilitersFahrenheit CelsiusGas

⅓ cup80 milliliters

250120&fraq12;

&fraq12; cup120 milliliters

2751401

1 cup240 milliliters

3001502

1 pint (2 cups)480 milliliters

3251603

1 quart (4 cups, 32 ounces)960 milliliters

3501804

1 gallon (4 quarts)3.84 liters

3751905

4002006

1 ounce (by weight)28 grams

4252007

1 pound454 grams

4502308

2.2 pounds1 kilogram

4752409

50026010

Your license is obsolete and can’t work with this version.

This is the newest PDF Focus .Net version 7.1.9.17.

Click here to update your license!